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Jean-Marc QuarinCarnets de dégustationsAn independent buyer's guide to the wines of Bordeaux www.quarin.com Chronicle n° 3 (June 1st, 2005) VINTAGE 2005 The wines of vintage 2004 have not been sold yet, that vintage 2005 is already pointing its nose. We are now at the end of May; in the vineyards, the vines are putting out their blossoms and their peculiar floral fragrance embalms the air between the rows. For the moment, the vegetative cycle is a week ahead of 2004 and a week behind 2003. In Bordeaux, the weather is warm and sunny, especially this Thursday 26th and Friday 27th of May. In fact, the weather is just perfect for the blossoms, with some wind and now and then a slightly overcast sky. The vines grow about three centimeters per day – slightly more than an inch. If it does not get too hot over the next few days, and if there is no sudden drop of the temperature either, the flowering could be quite rapid and homogeneous. For the time being, the number of bunches per vine is rather high and some already think about green harvest. To be continued in the next chronicle. 2004 FUTURES CAMPAIGN: BEST VALUES (TASTE) FOR MONEY In addition to Lafon Rochet and Lagrange mentioned in the previous chronicle there are: - Domaine de Chevalier red, a Pessac-Léognan Classified Growth, priced around 20,50 Euro, exclusive of tax. - Léoville Poyferré, a Saint-Julien Classified Growth, priced around 26 Euro, exclusive of tax. - Malartic Lagravière rouge, a Pessac-Léognan Classified Growth, priced around 19,90 Euro, exclusive of tax. VINTAGE 2003: THE END OF MY TASTINGS BEFORE BOTTLING.I will publish the results in September. My best scores of last year, as also my favorites and the wines which obtained my “best score given as a future to this wine”, are all confirmed. There is something bewitching in the smell and the taste of this vintage. And yet, beyond this original and especially pleasant aspect, along with truly very hedonistic attacks, I fear that many wines will show dryness in the finish. In my opinion, they should have been bottled earlier. Between February/March and May/June, the wines changed quite a lot. I regret that so many estates did not adapt their methods to the intrinsic properties of the vintage by moving up the bottling date. There is another ground for dry tannic structures in the finish which has nothing to do with the effect the drought had on the grapes. It is simply that vintage 2003 was a vintage of small harvests, and many estates have therefore been tempted to add too much press wine, to compensate for the profit loss due to the small production. Obviously, this phenomenon will not occur in vintage 2004, with its over-abundant harvests. This is the reason why Bordeaux Wine Culture puts forth the idea that good results are possible in very prolific years (citing 1990 as their best example). The large volumes guarantee enough revenue, and they allow great flexibility in the selections and in the blends. To conclude, if you are wondering at negociants who have been telling you that the wines from 2004 will be better than those of 2003, this is in fact what they have in mind. VINTAGE 2002: PAPE-CLEMENT IS A PURE DELIGHT. TWOTASTINGS ASSESSED AT 94 AND 95 I just tasted again a large number of white Pessac Leognan wines as well as a few Graves. The vintage is obviously very good just now. The wines give a lot of fruit to the nose and on the palate. Their good acidity gives them a rather tight profile, but mellowed by a softer touch, which gives quite a charming finish to these wines. Today, my preference goes to PAPE CLEMENT white. It has been extremely drinkable for the past two months, obtaining excellent scores twice in a row, a 94 and a 95. You should not hesitate to enjoy it now. How to resist this dazzling nose of truffles and bergamot! Yet before vintage 2000, I found this growth to have too much wood in the nose, with and an inelegant tendency to be oxidative. Today, nothing is left of these negative impressions. Well defined, pure and outgoing; the nose is now absolutely delectable. I first thought that this was perhaps only a temporary perception. But one month later, I tasted the wine again, and bingo, here we went again…: truffle enthusiasts will be delighted! On the palate, the wine displays refined fat and lots of aromas. The truffle mixes with orange and spices. The wine melts in a long sappy finish, and never a hint of oxidation. With such scores, it takes the lead of the dry white wines of the vintage. Tasted again last April, the nose reminded me of a Montrachet this time. On the palate, I was impressed by its incredible gentleness. The wine unfurls all the classical aesthetic values of hedonism; almost too much for words. Assessed at 95. MOUTON 1986 OVERTAKES LAFITE 1986 In September 2004, I came across two bottles which almost perfectly represented the respective qualities of these two wines. LAFITE: average score over 4 tastings since the year 2000: 93. Last assessment in September 2004, with 94. MOUTON: average score over 5 tastings since the year 2000: 95. Last assessment in September 2004, with 96. (Considering the excellent reputation of these vintages on these estates, the average scores may seem somewhat low. This is because they incorporate wide score differences from one bottle to another, ranging from 90 to 96. All the wines were tasted at private homes.) Lafite is all aromas and delicate texture; Mouton is all flesh and depth. Today, Mouton overtakes Lafite. I found it had more nuances than in earlier tastings, as if the patina of its power gave it refinement. The mid-palate is very ample, caressing and juicy, with a taste of blackcurrant, cedar and smoke. I am really impressed by the wine in the second part of the palate, when it deepens even more; this is quite exciting! Its solar spicy power, which yet is fresh, with the typical Bordeaux taste of blackcurrant, seems rather unique to me. Great length. Lafite, which I used to love so much, somehow seemed duller and almost fragile on the palate. In the glass it develops superb aromas and little by little, its aromatic distinction gives it a unique and highly distinguished character. Yet it ends on a somewhat sharp finish, in the sense of a slight lack of maturity. Today that I know more about viticulture than ten years ago, I would say that with a higher canopy (more leaves) and/or a delay in the harvesting of just a few days, this wine would have been perfectly splendid. But in any case, its specific profile is totally different from that of vintage 2000. Globally speaking, the quality is not as high, even if at the time I thought the wine admirable. My advice on these wines: you can start tasting them now, and they will keep until 2020, and even longer for Mouton. If you are having a business meal, avoid serving them next to each other. Their excellence does not deserve devaluation and their respective qualities are totally self sufficient. However, if you are among knowledgeable connoisseurs, the experience is quite enriching. GREAT WINES DO NOT EXIST, ONLY GREAT BOTTLES FIGEAC 1982, assessed at 86. Its average score to this day is 94. In this tasting, the green pepper in the nose quite spoilt my pleasure in the wine. It was a shame since the palate displayed beautiful texture. Once more, great wines do not exist, only great bottles. Do not hesitate to let me know your opinions or suggestions. Jean-Marc Quarin© Copyright : All rights reserved. No part of this article may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the author: Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, 33320 Le Taillan-Médoc. France. Tél. 00 33 (0)5 56 35 83 93. Fax 00 33 (0)5 56 35 86 50. E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr

2005 Chronicles

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