Bordeaux Futures 2005: Eighteenth Report

LAST REPORT MISCELLANEOUS Eighteenth Report (April 26, 2006)LAST REPORT Here I am at the end of this first encounter with the 2005 Bordeaux wines at the Futures. I greatly enjoyed experiencing this new vintage. Even if it represents an enormous amount of work, I consider these tastings as a journey and the constant exploration of new tastes, flavours and varied profiles. My approach may be dominated by my interest for taste and its quality, but my wine-tasting always takes me back to the man. Undeniably, wine is a product of interpretation. It may not be apparent, but it speaks of those who make it, of their culture, their ideology, their knowledge, their talent and their insignificance. Tell me how you taste or what you taste, and I will tell you who you are...? Maybe...? Probably...? If this work is over, it is not finished. The 2005 vintage is of prime importance in Bordeaux. I expect to write of its development in each of my forthcoming Chronicles. They will begin again on May 2nd. I urge you to buy the best 2005 wines. You have everything to gain. You make the effort to keep yourself informed, so I hope you will make the most of it and all become the proud possessors of bottles of Beauséjour Duffau, Troplong Mondot and Nairac. These three wines, like Château Margaux, will go down in the history of Bordeaux wines. This report is therefore the last. In a few days, you will receive the table of the best wines. In the next Chronicles, I will set out a table of 2005 wines for those who wish to buy, but not wait twenty years for this vintage to mature in the cellar before being able to enjoy it. Best regards, Jean-Marc QuarinMISCELLANEOUSBEAUMONT Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois 75 A green wine. To be tasted again. CARONNE SAINTE GEMME Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois 75 I have tasted this twice. The fruit is completely cooked. Curious. CLOS CHAUMONT Premières Côtes de Bordeaux 82 In this wine there are both green and mature notes. It could be more precise. CLOS LOUIE Vieilles vignes Côtes de Castillon 85This is still undergoing malolactic fermentation. For a wine which has not finished its malolactic fermentation, it is quite ample and fat. The tannin is well coated by the fruit. Normal length. CLOS PLINCE Pomerol 86 A wine full of fruit, at the nose and in the mouth, balanced by lovely pulp and fat. Lovely length. COMPASSANT Red Bordeaux 84 A coloured wine, fruity at the nose and fleshy in the mouth, with soft tannins. Well made. CORNÉLIE Haut-Médoc 85 - 86A discovery.Mr Patrick Grisard, manager of Château Sénéjac, took over this estate as a tenant winemaker at the end of 2004. The 5.5 ha are situated in Saint-Sauveur and planted with 52% Cabernet Sauvignon and 48% Merlot. Lovely dark red colour of medium to good intensity. Discreet, still crude, nose. The wine is constructed essentially around the fruit, rounded in the mouth, attractive, developing with well-coated tannins at the finish. Normal length. The general expression is average (as is often the case in Saint-Sauveur), but the careful work leads me to want to follow its progress. COUCY Montagne-Saint-Emilion 86 A highly coloured, crimson wine. Neat, creamy nose. Fruity, cocoa note. Floral. Fat in the mouth and yet also tannic and very fruity. Strong finish. Normal length. Nice work by Jean-Luc Thunevin who has known how to avoid rusticity. CRABITEY Red Graves 86 Lovely dark colour. The wine smells nicely of notes of Graves and even the typical smoked note of Pessac-Léognan. Notes of blackberry and plum. The mouth has a refined touch, not very corpulent at first, but then it gradually takes on fabric at the finish. Very elegant tannins. Lovely length. A wine full of fruit which will gain charm during maturing. It will be very agreeable to drink young. DALEM Fronsac 86 Beautiful dark crimson. Lovely aromatic, very fruity and delicately spicy nose. Very fruity mouth, rounded and attractive, with a taste of plum, citrus peel and blackberry. Elegant tannins. Normal length. DASVIN BEL AIR Haut-Médoc 84 Beautiful dark red. Neat, fruity nose, fresh, intense, fairly mature. Tender and fruity mouth with a discreet, slightly simple expression (as is often the case in Macau). Medium length. DE GADRAS Red Bordeaux 86Coup de cœur. The 2005 Gadras is the most elegant ever produced. Very lovely, intense, crimson red colour. Neat, delicate, very, very fruity, mature, fresh nose. Delicious mouth. Delicately creamy to the touch, very aromatic, supple and fat, it ends long with mature tannin. Lovely finish. Julien Delpech waited for the skins to reach perfect maturity and finished picking on October 18th. Blend: 55% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. May I remind you that I consider this cru to be a mainstay of the cellar. At 5€10, tax included, to private individuals, it would be difficult to do better. Moreover, the estate has told me that existing clients will benefit from a special price of 4€50, tax included.DE LAUSSAC Côtes de Castillon ? The wine does not seem to me to be quite ready for tasting. To be followed up. DU RETOUT Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois 86I have already mentioned this wine in the 2002 vintage as being very good value for money. The 2005 seems to me to be a success. Intense crimson red. Discreet but very fruity nose. Notes of liquorice and raspberry. Tender, very fruity, flavourful mouth with medium body. Tannic but balanced finish. Lovely, scarcely woody length. It will be good to drink young. Very good value for money. DU TAILLAN Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois 84 A coloured wine, fruity at the nose and rather fresh. The mouth is one of the most fat ever known here. The harvests have been later on this cru for a little while, which, to me, is beneficial to its quality. Good sappy length. DUBOIS GRIMON Côtes de Castillon 86 Lovely dark colour. Mature, fresh, very fruity nose. Lovely dense mouth, fruity and velvety but also spicy. Tannic finish with lovely length. A success. FLEUR HAUT GAUSSENS Bordeaux Supérieur 85 - 86 Intense, very, very dark colour. Neat, mellow, spicy nose. Tender, fruity mouth, with a medium body and fairly tannic at the finish. Medium length. FOUGAS MALDOROR Côtes de Bourg 84 Lovely intense lively colour. Neat, fruity, fresh, liquorice, pure nose. An agreeable wine in the mouth for the brilliance of its fruit. The body remains medium and the finish rather tannic, slightly marked by the wood. More flesh in the middle would magnify it – maybe during maturing? GOMBAUDE GUILLOT Pomerol 89 Lovely crimson colour. The nose is still crude and discreet. The mouth presents lovely ample, flavourful substance in mid-mouth. Here is a Pomerol which I do not find flabby this year. On the contrary, it has aromatic brilliance (I think this quality of fruit comes from biodynamic viticulture). Beautiful length in an ascending style, as is often the case. 13.5° alcohol. TPI 70 – pH 3.7.GRAND PUY LACOSTE Pauillac Cru Classé 94My best score given to this cru as a Future. Crimson colour. All the freshness is in the first wine! Fruity, mature, delicately creamy. What a superb entry! This meticulous, very, very fruity wine weighs elegantly on the palate. Full, juicy, aromatic, dense, it develops with a very, very floral taste and delicate, smooth tannins. It is a Grand Puy Lacoste as I like it, perfectly balanced, but with flesh as well. Do not miss it. What is more, the pleasure score is already high at 16.5. Harvest: 28th September to 8th October. Blend: 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot. 13.2° alcohol.GRAND VILLAGE Red Bordeaux Supérieur 85 Dark red colour of good intensity. Neat, discreet, slightly reduced nose. A rich, fat wine with plenty of flesh. The finish is slightly smoked. Medium to good length. GREYSAC Médoc Cru Bourgeois 83 A coloured wine, of good intensity. Neat, discreet nose. The mouth lacks maturity of fruit. Rather abrupt tannins. HAUT BATAILLEY Pauillac Cru Classé 89 - 90My best score given to this cru as a Future.In 2005, a new cellar and a new vat-room were installed here, together with double selection of the grapes on reception from the harvests. Intense dark crimson red. Neat, fruity, discreet nose. A meticulous wine in its touch in the mouth, with nicely mature, less fresh aromas than Grand Puy Lacoste. Very flavourful, it has a superb taste of plum and just melts in the mouth. It will become delicious after maturing. I recommend that you do not wait ten years before drinking it! Blend: 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot. It is the first time there is so much Cabernet Sauvignon in it. 13.2° alcohol. Very good value for money.HAUT CONDISSAS Médoc 89 Intense crimson colour. Neat, creamy, spicy, very fruity nose. For the second consecutive vintage, I find this wine better than usual: it offers more flavour. In the sample tasted, the density was good, but the wine fairly woody. Nevertheless, a delicate fat fills the mouth. Very lovely length. Unfortunately, I was only able to taste it once. To be followed during maturing. HAUT MAZERIS Canon-Fronsac 88 Intense crimson colour. Neat, very fruity, delicate, mature nose. Beautiful fleshy entry, developing with a fat structure. This wine combines the energy given by the limestone and very good substance with talent. Lovely tannic length. KIRWAN Margaux Cru Classé 90 Intense colour. Neat, very fruity nose. A juicy wine, complete in the mouth, dominated by the fruit and measured tannic supports. Dense, flavourful, it ends tannic, but, unlike in the past, extraction and woodiness are not in excess. Having mentioned this, the estate confirmed to me that there was no bleeding of the Merlot grapes in 2005. Little by little, Nathalie Schÿler is creating the style she wants to give to Kirwan. She now wants to give the wine her own signature more than that of Michel Rolland. L’ENCLOS GALLEN Margaux 86My best score given to this cru as a Future. The colour is lovely, dark and intense, and the nose very fruity. The mouth is the most fleshy that I know from this domain, while still remaining refined to the touch. Normal length. LA CROIX BONNEAU Renaissance Montagne-Saint-Emilion 84 Lovely, intense dark red colour. Neat, fruity, spicy nose. The mouth is still somewhat lively but the flesh of the wine is present. Slightly firm tannins at the finish. LA DEMOISELLE DE SOCIANDO MALLET Haut-Médoc Second wine 83 Claret coloured. Neat nose, a little green but also fruity. A simple wine, slightly acrid at the finish. Simple in expression. LACOSTE BORIE Pauillac Second wine 86 It’s good! It’s good! The colour is crimson, and the nose smells nicely of hyper-ripe fruit. The mouth is tender and very fruity, slightly exotic but that suits it! The finish has aromatic, smooth tannins. A very good second wine. LASCOMBES Margaux Cru Classé 92My best score given to this cru as a Future.I have tasted it three times in very different conditions and I have always been impressed by its qualities. Beautiful, intense, dark colour. A great nose, rich in fruit and spices. A vanilla, floral note. What fat! What a mouth: lovely, supple, fresh, strong and aromatic! Very great flavourful length. Never have I found this wine so delicate and so complete. LE THIL COMTE CLARY Red Pessac-Léognan 86 Beautiful, intense, dark red. The nose is neat, delicate, fruity, fresh and finely smoked. The mouth is delicious, aromatic, distinguished and suave, with soft tannins delicately woven at the finish. It is difficult to spit out! LES CRUZELLES Lalande de Pomerol 84 Lovely colour. Averagely aromatic nose. The mouth is tender, but, as is often the case, this wine ends somewhat lively at the finish. Medium length. LES FIEFS DE LAGRANGE Saint-Julien Second wine 85 Intense claret-red colour. The nose is neat, delicate, fruity, fresh and pure. The mouth is tender, very fruity, lively and agreeable, with discreet tannins. Medium length. LES GRANDS CHÊNES Médoc Cru Bourgeois 87 Crimson colour. Creamy, very fruity nose. A beautiful wine with a taste of ripe Cabernet Sauvignon and a supple, elegant mouth. Noble tannins. Very lovely, rather aromatic length. A success with more fat than usual. MAGREZ TIVOLI Médoc 87 Crimson colour. A neat, fruity nose, fresh and mature, smelling of raspberry. Very lovely suave, velvety entry, developing aromatic and fat with body and fairly delicate tannins. The finish is slightly woody. Very lovely length. MEYRE Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois 85 Lovely red colour. Neat, fruity, fresh nose, more mature than usual. The mouth is also more fat. The tannins are always as soft. Medium length. A wine to drink young. MONGRAVEY Margaux 87 Lovely, intense crimson colour. Pure, fruity nose. Beautiful ample entry. Then the wine develops very, very flavourful, fat and silky towards a long, spicy finish. Very, very lovely length. A great success of the year. PAS DE L’ANE Saint-Emilion 89 Here is another delicious wine of the vintage. Coloured, averagely aromatic, it is especially seductive for its fleshy mouth, its very well-coated tannins, its delicate taste and its long, aromatic finish. PETIT GRAVET AÎNÉ Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 88 - 90 Intense, lovely black colour. Lovely fresh, mature nose of Cabernet Franc. Superb, ample, soft mouth, rich in the middle. The wine develops gently towards a finish with tannins both delicate and fleshy. A great success for Catherine Papon-Nouvel. PEYROU Côtes de Castillon 87 - 88 Beautiful crimson colour. The nose is neat, delicate, fruity, mellow, fresh and brilliant with fruit. Beautiful ample entry, and then the wine offers unending pulp with a quality of material unequalled before today. Delicious finish, combining mature tannins and aromatic brilliance. A great success. PRIEURS DE LA COMMANDERIE Pomerol 82 Intense dark red colour. Neat, fruity nose, slightly spiced from the wood. A light wine in the mouth but not rigid as is often the case. In this, it is in step with the year. ROC DE CALON Cuvée Prestige Montagne-Saint-Emilion 85Here is a wine made gently with minimal extractions so as to avoid the roughness often found in this appellation. Intense dark red colour. Beautiful nose of fresh fruit and flowers. A delicate note of cocoa. Pure. A flavourful body, full of fruit and with no rigidity. Fresh finish with elegant tannins. Good length. Careful winemaking. It is a success. SAINT AYME Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 85 Lovely dark red colour. And here is an aromatic, fresh, fruity, mature nose. It is a very suave, very fruity wine, with very well coated tannins. Plenty of taste. A success. SEGUE LONGUE MONNIER Médoc 84 Beautiful claret-red colour, of good intensity. Neat, intense, very fruity and quite pure nose. The mouth is agreeable and aromatic. The body remains medium which is a pity. Aromatic finish with a rather fine grain. It can be drunk young with pleasure. SOCIANDO MALLET Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois 90 - 91 Very lovely, intense crimson colour. A very pulpy wine, dense and caressing in the mouth, which is emphasised in the second part of the palate. Very well coated tannins. A finer grain than in the 2003. Long, aromatic finish. Blend: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot. 13° alcohol. TPI 79.SOLEIL Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion 85This is undergoing malolactic fermentation. Mr de Neipperg has just bought this cru and was not responsible for the vines during this vintage. Dense substance and the presence of fruit, but firm and slightly rustic tannins. This appellation presents a challenge. Blend: 80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.VRAY CROIX DE GAY Pomerol 85 - 86 Lovely dark red colour. Neat, fruity, fresh and quite delicate nose. The wine is agreeable and tender in the mouth, fruity, with an aromatic spark which I find lacking in many Pomerol wines this year. On the other hand, the finish presents a quite fine tannin and a lovely promising length. Maturing will show its progress.

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Bordeaux Futures 2005: Eighteenth Report

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