Bordeaux Futures 2005: Eleventh Report

PESSAC-LÉOGNAN AND SOME GRAVES Eleventh Report (April 14, 2006) For the first time since 1988, all the wines tasted are good. Never have I known such homogeneity. The vintage is highly coloured, very aromatic (and especially fresh for certain wines), very fleshy in the mouth, and with tannins without roughness. Structures are classic, more straight and long than full. I could distinguish a few differences in style due to harvest dates, but I think that maturing will efface these details. The aging capacity and the pleasure potential are very high. This last will show itself in the barrel. I suspect that then these wines will be revealed as true luscious delights. BOUSCAUT Red Pessac-Léognan Cru Classé 87My best score given to this wine as a future. Very lovely fruity, mellow, fresh nose. Suave, rounded and especially flavourful mouth. The length remains normal but the pleasure that this wine creates through its flesh is much greater than in other vintages. BRANON Red Pessac-Léognan 92 The colour is a lovely intense, dark crimson red. The nose is complex and very typical of Pessac-Léognan. A touch of the fireplace. Very ripe black fruit. The mouth is elegant and subtle rather than ample and thick. The wine develops crescendo in the mouth and ends fat, flavourful, sappy and long. Complex flavours. A refined wine. BROWN Red Pessac-Léognan 87Property in the process of renovation. My best score given to this wine as a future. This wine takes its success from the passionate diligence of the new management, without forgetting the favours of the year for this appellation. Fruity at the nose and especially very suave on entry, it develops caressing, flavourful and finely woven at the finish. Plenty of finesse. A success. Blend: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot.CARBONNIEUX Red Pessac-Léognan Cru Classé 88 The colour is an intense, dark crimson red. The nose is neat, of medium intensity, and fruity. It is a slender wine, full of ripe fruit, less rich than others in mid-mouth and very flavourful at the finish. Very, very lovely length with the fruit and subtle fat notes. The finish improves the score. Constructed like a 2005 archetype, that is to say, more present at the finish than in mid-mouth. CHANTEGRIVE Red Graves 84 A coloured wine, with medium aromatic intensity, mixing nuances of ripe and less ripe fruit in the mouth. Medium length. This cru is making efforts, but still has a long way to go. CLOS FLORIDÈNE Red Graves 86 - 87 A coloured wine, very fruity at the nose, evoking white and red fruit. The mouth is tender and very fruity, developing with a normal body and a taste of pears in wine. Beautiful sappy and always fat length. CLOS MARSALETTE Red Pessac-Léognan 84 It could be that this is the best wine tasted on the estate, and, in particular, the most fleshy. Usually the wine is slightly neutral. However, it still has simple tannins. DE FIEUZAL Red Pessac-Léognan Cru Classé 88 The colour is lovely and the wine already smells nicely of Pessac-Léognan. In the mouth, the special mellowness evoking Merlot seizes the palate. Very rounded, juicy, flavourful, somewhat withdrawn in mid-mouth, slightly woody, the wine ends aromatic and long. In my opinion, it will be pleasant to drink young. DE FRANCE Red Pessac-Léognan 87My best score given to this wine as a future. Intense, dark red. Neat nose, of medium intensity, fruity and mellow. I do not think I have ever tasted so fresh and fruity a Château de France in the mouth. Fleshy, without an ounce of wood, it ends long and flavourful. Very lovely finish. DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER Red Pessac-Léognan Cru Classé 93 Since my last comment (report n° 3), I have tasted this wine again twice, and increased the score slightly. The nose is a quintessence of the aromas of Chevalier: soot, fig, blackberry and blackcurrant. It is very fresh and very strong. The mouth is full and pulpy, with lots of contained strength. What pleasure when this cru produces wines which occupy the mid-mouth nicely! The suavity never leaves the palate. The tannins remain meticulous and aromatic. It not only has potential but also, what is more, it offers pleasure here and now. All amateurs who fear buying 2005 wines because they will be ready in 15 to 20 years will put this cru at the top of their list. Pleasure score: 90DU TOURTE Red Graves 87The 2003 is up until today the best vintage of the estate. I think that the 2005 will equal it in a more classic style. Intense crimson colour. Very, very fruity, fresh and aromatic nose. A touch of liqueur of red fruit. It has one of the densest mouths ever tasted here. Very, very fruity, flavourful and caressing, this wine stays perfectly in the second part of the mouth and comes to a long end. Very good value for money (less than 15€). FERRANDE Red Graves 85 As it is, it would be the best wine I have tasted on the estate. Its density and its fruit are unprecedented. HAUT BAILLY Red Pessac-Léognan Cru Classé 93My best score given to this wine as a future. Black colour. The nose is neat, intense, delicate, fruity, smelling of tar, smoke and liquorice. Very lovely entry both ample and full of freshness at the same time. The fat in the middle is unprecedented. Never have I seen it at this level at Haut Bailly. Then the wine develops very, very strong and especially tannic and long. This strength is also unprecedented at Haut Bailly. Very, very great length. The wine will need to be aged. With this vintage and the work carried out recently, Haut Bailly adds a rarely achieved base to its natural charm. HAUT BERGEY Red Pessac-Léognan 90 Intense, dark red colour. Very lovely nose, fresh, smoked, fruity, pure and subtle. Slender mouth from entry, developing with a very delicate touch. Very aromatic without being too corpulent, the wine develops, after mid-mouth, with fat and creamy tactile nuances, unprecedented and to the very best effect. Very lovely length with top of the range tannins. It will become a refined and sophisticated wine. HAUT BRION Red Pessac-Léognan Premier Cru Classé 94 - 95 The colour is lovely, and the nose very, very fruity. It has the particularity of offering a freshness which is unprecedented in this vintage. Rich and tight on entry, very, very aromatic, this wine melts on the palate with tight tannins at the finish. Very lovely almost mineral flavour which is long with a fine grain. Very typically “Haut Brion”. Blend: 56% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc. 14° alcohol.LA CHAPELLE de LA MISSION HAUT BRION Red Pessac-Léognan 86 A wine made totally of pulpy softness, fruity, suave and rounded. Plenty of pleasure immediately. Blend: 30% Merlot, 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc.LA LOUVIÈRE Red Pessac-Léognan 88 The colour is an intense, dark crimson red. The nose is neat, intense, fruity and mellow. Notes of strawberry and tar. The wine is full on attack and extremely fruity in the mouth. It develops flavourful and strong towards a sappy finish, when it offers the most fleshy tannic grain ever seen at La Louvière during the Futures. Well done! LA MISSION HAUT BRION Red Pessac-Léognan Cru Classé 95 Lovely colour. Beautiful nose, fresh, delicate, fruity and mellow. Subtle notes of cherry and resin. Beautiful rich entry. The wine develops fat and full. Very flavourful with a superb presence in mid-mouth, long, ample and also strong, it retains a remarkable fruity freshness for the year, even if it has such a high percentage of Merlot. Delicious. Blend: 69% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Cabernet Franc. 14.2° alcohol.LA SÉRÉNITÉ Red Pessac-Léognan 92 Intense crimson colour. Beautiful nose, fruity, mellow, delicate and pure. In the mouth, the wine is delicious and supple, dense but ethereal and, especially, perfectly aromatic. Subtle, it ends long and fat with delicate tannins. A great success. I love it. LA TOUR HAUT BRION Red Pessac-Léognan Cru Classé 89 This wine has lots of taste and a lovely freshness, while still being really mellow. Truly flavourful. Beautiful aromatic length with liquorice. Its high percentage of Cabernet Franc could reveal it as more elegant but also more fleshy as it matures. Blend: 32% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Cabernet Franc.LARRIVET HAUT BRION Red Pessac-Léognan 88 Intensely coloured wine. Strong nose smelling of strawberry and animal notes. Entry is gentle, and the very, very fruity wine offers itself caressing, juicy and full in the middle. Beautiful length with liquorice, balanced by a delicate fat aspect. Unprecedented. LATOUR MARTILLAC Red Pessac-Léognan Cru Classé 89 Lovely crimson colour. Neat, intense floral, delicate nose. A note of liquorice. Pulpy entry, and then the wine develops rounded, with taste and delicate, noble tannic support. Strong and flavourful finish. Lovely sappy length. A must-have from the estate. LE BAHANS du château HAUT BRION Red Pessac-Léognan 88 - 90Here is a remarkable second wine from Haut Brion. Highly coloured, it also presents an already smoked nose balanced by a lovely aroma of cherry. With a mouth full of fruitiness, freshness of taste, it is corpulent, tannic and long. Maturing should make it delicious. Highly recommended. Blend: 45% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc.LE THIL COMTE CLARY Red Pessac-Léognan Well tasted once. Second comment in progress. LES CARMES HAUT BRION Red Pessac-Léognan 92Here is a wine which was harvested very early for the Merlot and Cabernet Franc (5th, 6th and 7th September) and on 20th September for the Cabernet Sauvignon. It has classic expression. In my opinion, it will become very refined. The 2003, also very successful, is slightly more spirited. A lively, intense crimson colour. The nose is neat, intense, delicate, fruity, fresh and complex. Entry is beautiful, very fruity and, especially, pulpy, developing with a delicate sense of touch. Mid-mouth is absolutely bewitching. The pulp combined with the subtle tannic precision offers great charm. A fresh finish with liquorice and a complex taste of cherry and raspberry. And, what’s more, the delicately fat note of the vintage comes back into the mouth. Great length. A great success. A very elegant wine. LUCHEY HALDE Red Pessac-Léognan 89My best score given to this wine as a future. Highly coloured wine. Intense nose, delicate, fruity, smoked, evoking the fireplace. Here, the fat is impressive. It is not allied to firm sensations. On the contrary, it balances a very ethereal but present body. Great aromatic complex finish, with flavours of white and red fruit. An incredible success given the youth of the vines. I would like to draw your attention to the immense potential of the terroir of this cru situated in Mérignac. You will hear of it more and more in the years to come. It is unavoidable for those who do not wish to wait too long for their wines. I would remind you that today the 2003 is pure pleasure (see the chronicle of July 13th, 2005). MALARTIC LAGRAVIERE Red Pessac-Léognan Cru Classé 92My best score given to this wine as a future. Very lovely colour and nose. Very fruity. Mellow and less woody than other years. The mouth is typical of a very, very mellow vintage. The wine is caressing, with a fullness it has rarely had. The structure is flawless, the aromatic aspect more reserved. The perception of a flavour of raspberry liqueur has to be waited for and comes in the second part of the mouth, like at Château Margaux. Very great finish, with no dryness and a magnificent tannic grain. A great wine in perspective. Please do not make it too woody during maturing! I love this nose, this mellow, but not thick touch. Obviously, they are the sign of a great viticultural place. MEJEAN Red Graves 86 This estate is in the process of renovation and presents a 2005 which is refined in taste and touch, and of medium strength in the mouth. It is a very agreeable wine with a pure taste. Lovely length. OLIVIER Red Pessac-Léognan Cru Classé 87 Intense dark red. Strong, animal, fruity nose. A wine full of softness and fruit in the mouth, which offers a supple aspect with taste and freshness. Lovely finish with well coated tannins. One of the best I have tasted here. PAPE CLEMENT Red Pessac-Léognan Cru Classé 94 Beautiful nose, deep and mellow, full of fruit. The mouth offers the succulent flavour and flesh of great vineyards. The pleasure given by this wine places it among the elite. It has the pulp, the softness and the caress of the juice of the fruit. It ends with great aromatic length and a taste of raspberry liqueur, spices and smoke. Subtle tannins. PICQUE CAILLOU Red Pessac-Léognan 85 This wine has also been touched by the grace of the vintage through its coloured intensity, its lovely fruity nose and its slightly more than usual fleshy mouth. Nevertheless, Picque Caillou too often disappoints my hopes. I said so to its owner, Mr Paulin Calvet, who replied: “I will have good news for you in a while”. It is clear that the recent creation of the vineyard of Luchey Halde, his neighbour, shows all the unexploited potential of Picque Caillou. To be continued. RAHOUL Red Graves 86 The colour is an intense dark crimson red. This wine also has an intense nose of strawberry. The flesh is present, as is the body. Beautiful fruitiness. The finish has slightly more covered tannins than usual. Lovely length. SEGUIN Red Pessac-Léognan 86 - 87My best score given to this wine as a future. Beautiful intense dark red. Lovely nose of ripe fruit, fig, bilberry (huckleberry) and blackcurrant. Beautiful pulp on entry, and then the wine ascends in the middle of the mouth, softly, so softly, and descends to the finish with mellow, finely grained tannins. Never has it had so pronounced the style of Pessac-Léognan. Plenty of pleasure, including when young. Highly recommended. SMITH HAUT LAFITTE Red Pessac-Léognan Cru Classé 91 - 92 Black colour. Subtle note of grilled coffee at the nose. I do not think that that comes from the barrel. I think more of the very gravelly soil. I was expecting a very dense wine. On the contrary, it is very fruity, tender, ethereal and bewitching. The tannic supports are noble. There is a very smoked flavour all through the tasting. Beautiful suave length. I think it is the most refined Smith Haut Lafitte I have ever tasted up until today. Acknowledgments: I would like to thank Catherine, Carine and Elaine for their precious help without which these reports could not be sent out. There is a break in the reports during the Easter weekend. The next report will be published on Tuesday, April 18th, 2006. Have a nice week-end! Jean-Marc Quarin

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Bordeaux Futures 2005: Eleventh Report

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