Bordeaux Futures 2005: Thirteenth Report

70 WINES OF SAINT-EMILION (second part)Thirteenth Report (April 19, 2006)ARNAUD DE JACQUEMEAU Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 86 Very lovely, dark crimson red. Neat nose, pure, fruity and mellow. Mouth with delicate texture, although not lacking in substance. Very fruity tannins and taste. Lovely rather aromatic length. A pleasurable modern wine without being fashionable. For the table! AURELIUS Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 87 - 88This is a beacon wine managed by the Union of Producers of Saint-Emilion. It is made from a selection of parcels in the best terroirs of the appellation. Very beautiful dark colour. Beautiful, pure, fresh nose, smelling also of flowers and ashes. Delicately creamy. An absolutely delicious wine, full of fruit, with a lovely structure and a delicate fat unceasingly coating the tannin. Beautiful flavoursome length. Superb work done by the Union of Producers of Saint-Emilion. BALESTARD LA TONNELLE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 88 And once again ... After Cap de Mourlin, the new density felt in Balestard makes me think that something is happening on Mr Cap de Mourlin’s estates. The nose is fresh and fine, the mouth tender, aromatic and flavoursome. The profile is, as often, elongated, but there is much more fat than usual. BEL AIR OUY St-Emilion Grand Cru 82 A somewhat fluid wine, rather crude at the finish. It is surprising that it bears the signature of Jean-Luc Thunevin. BELLISLE MONDOTTE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 87 Beautiful dark crimson, of good intensity. Neat nose, delicate, fruity, mellow, creamy and strong. The mouth is given over to tactile nuances. The Merlot is charming, ripe, very fruity and relatively soft at the finish. Lovely aromatic length, slightly woody. BERGAT Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 89 - 90My best score given to this cru as a Future. The wine is aromatic, leading me to believe that the grapes could have been picked later, then paradoxically, in the mouth, it offers plenty of taste and great tannic strength. The densest Bergat that I have tasted. An unexpected austere note at the finish, which is however beautifully long. Maturing will tell us more. Blend: 50% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Franc, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon.CANTENAC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 86 - 87 Intense crimson colour. Neat nose, full of fresh fruit. A delicious wine, particularly fruity in the mouth, developing fat, with a delicately creamy sensation. A taste of vanilla and raspberry. Very well-coated tannins. Normal length. CAP DE MOURLIN St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 87My best score given to this cru as a Future. I think that here I have tasted the densest wine ever tasted in the last twenty years. It is very fleshy, very strong, while still remaining slightly rustic in its final tannin. Maturing will tell us more. Anyhow, it does not have its usual austere signature. It appears that something is happening on this estate. I will go there soon. CARDINAL VILLEMAURINE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 84 Lovely bright crimson. Neat, fruity, mellow nose of flowers and vanilla. Very fruity mouth, without much flesh but elegant in its touch. A straight wine in the mouth. With finesse. CARTEAU CÔTES DAUGAY Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 84 Beautiful dark red. Neat, fruity nose, of medium intensity. After a lovely entry, the wine ends tannic and still crude. CLIMAT DE CH. CANTENAC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 88 Lovely intense crimson. Beautiful, very fruity nose. Mouth full of fruit. Lovely flavourful body. Long finish, with ripe and refined tannins. I was expecting to find more difference at Cantenac. Maybe the readjustment will take place during maturing? CLOS BADON Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 87 - 88 Black colour. Neat, intense, strong, ripe nose. A nuance of blackberry. Beautiful wine, full of fruit and flavour, tender and present in mid-mouth. It ends flavourful and quite long in aroma. Fleshy tannins. CLOS SAINT JULIEN Saint-Emilion Grand Cru To be tasted again. CLOS SAINT MARTIN Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 89 - 91 The colour is crimson and the nose very fruity. In the mouth, the rich, fruitful taste combines with a dense, suave structure. Very lovely length with mellow, somewhat woody tannins. CLOS VILLEMAURINE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 84 On one hand, a fruity wine on attack, but not sufficiently coated in its final tannins. Medium length. CORBIN Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 86 - 87 It is one of the loveliest mouths I have tasted at Corbin. The wine is dense, flavourful, very fruity and long. The finish is slightly heady. CORBIN MICHOTTE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 83 The colour is not as dark as in many other wines. The body is light. The estate has not known how to benefit from the unhoped-for advantages of the year. DASSAULT Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 89 - 91My best score given to this cru as a Future. This wine is pure enjoyment. Having tasted it many times, I like its pure, delicate, fruity nose. As for the mouth, it offers an unprecedented finesse. Mature, flavourful and long, this Dassault is fleshier than usual and has more nuances. A great success for Laurence Brun. Do not miss it! FAURIE DE SOUCHARD Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 76 This wine is limited in this vintage. It lacks fullness and softness. FOMBRAUGE St-Emilion Grand Cru 85 The colour is dark and the nose very ripe, nearly overripe. The mouth is fruity and aromatic but the tannin forces its way into the finish. Fairly extracted. FONBEL Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 83 Plenty of fruit, taste and energy in the mouth, even if the tannin could be more mellow. FONPLEGADE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 84 ? The concentration is better than in the past since the sale. However, in the one and only tasting, I found the taste lacking. It evokes overly late harvests. I will taste this again. FRANC LA ROSE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 86 Highly coloured wine. Fruity, mellow nose. Tender, velvet mouth, elegantly creamy in its touch. Flavourful in mid-mouth, this wine ends long and sappy. It is one of the best I have tasted from the estate. FRANC MAYNE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 85 The nose does not have the brilliance of the vintages before 2004. In the mouth, precision is lacking. Firm tannins. FRANC PIPEAU Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 83 A fruity wine, somewhat austere at the finish. GAILLARD Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 86 The wine does not seem to be totally stabilised yet, but the fruitiness of it is intense and the tannins deliciously soft. Normal length. GALIUS Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 84 - 85 Beautiful dark crimson. Neat nose, very fruity and creamy. Agreeably pulpy and fruity mouth, with good density, a tender character and fairly flavourful tannins at the finish. Medium length. GRACIA Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 93Coup de cœur.In the history of wine-making, the best wines have always been made by those who did not seem to need to make a living from them. Michel Gracia is an aesthete whose profession is that of building contractor, specialising in the restoration of historic monuments. I liked the 1998 very much. It has just improved its score to 17.25, compared with 15 as a Future. I think that the 2005 will equal it or even overtake it. Called a garage wine (a term which means nothing), I note especially in this cru its low yield, small scale vinification and perfect maturing in 100% new barrels. 90% Merlot gives the wine an indescribable suavity. Not only is this cru good young, but it also has the capacity of aging harmoniously. Production: a scarce 4,500 bottles.The distributors of this cru are Jean-Luc Thunevin, Jeffrey Davis, Johnston and Acadia. Great colour. Beautiful nose: very, very fruity, intense, mellow, fresh and creamy. Superb, juicy, full entry, developing very, very aromatic with a great taste of nicely ripe fruit. Very well integrated tannins, aromatic and refined at the finish. It is a delight. It is incredibly fresh and fleshy. And, what is more, the pleasure score is high. Pleasure score: 91GRAND MAYNE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 89 Lovely colour. Lovely fresh nose, pure yet mellow. The pleasure and the seduction come from the finesse and the touch in the mouth. The wine advances flavoursome, intense, supple, pure and long. Very lovely balance. GUADET SAINT JULIEN Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 88 - 89 It is probable that this is the most mature Guadet St Julien that I have come across for a long time. It has a rarely expressed velvetiness. Very flavoursome, it ends on delicate, aromatic tannins. HAUT SAINT BRICE Saint-Emilion 84 Bright crimson colour, of good density. Neat nose, very fruity, fresh and floral. The mouth is tender and rather light. Medium length. HAUT SARPE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 84 I do not think that this cru has benefited from the advantages of the vintage. It does not have the required pulp. Austere tannins. HAUT VILLET Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 86 - 87 Beautiful dark, intense crimson. Neat nose, rather delicate and very, very fruity. It has the creamy note of ripe Cabernet. Delicious mouth, suave and yet rich in fresh fruit. Flavourful tannins. Normal length. One of the best I have tasted here. HAUT VILLET Cuvée Pomone Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 90 Crimson-black colour. Neat nose of spices more than fruit. Beautiful meticulous entry. Full mid-mouth. Very good corpulence. Then, the wine tightens, takes on strength and even becomes a little austere. Beautiful strong, tannic finish. L’ARAMONT Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 85This cru belongs to the Caille family who also own L’Arrosée. Lovely dark red, of medium to good intensity. Neat, aromatic nose, full of ripe and fresh fruit. Tender, very fruity, flavourful mouth, of medium body, with soft tannins delicately balanced by the wood at the finish. Medium length. It will be good to drink young. L’ARCHANGE Saint-Emilion 87My best score given to this cru as a Future. Very dark, intense colour. Very, very fruity nose. Deep note of resin. The fat immediately on entry is marvellous. Then, the wine develops flavourful with good corpulence. Beautiful length with well covered tannin. A success. L’ARROSÉE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 90My best score given to this cru as a Future. Beautiful dark colour. Intense, fresh, very fruity nose. Elegant, flavourful mouth with a pure, precise fruitiness. The wine tightens in the second part, gains flavour and ends long, fresh and truly flavourful. L’HERMITAGE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 91 Lovely crimson-black colour. Neat, fresh, fruity, mellow, creamy nose. Superb mouth with suave and delicate mellowness right from the start. Supple mid-mouth. Very, very well integrated, flavourful, long tannins. There is real wine in this bottle. With this vintage, the cru regains a level forgotten since 1997. LA COUSPAUDE St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 86 A fat and very fruity wine in the mouth, slightly less woody than in previous years even if it remains too much so. Made in a misunderstood Michel Rolland style. LA CROIZILLE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 87 I do not think that this vintage will reach the level of 1998, my favourite vintage of this cru. The fruit is certainly there, the mouth is slightly firm and the tannins present, but without the hoped for luscious flesh. LA DOMINIQUE St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 86 - 89 ? I am very disappointed with the aging of the 2002 which has not matured enough. At the château, I was received by Mr Meylhenc, once from La Tour Carnet. I tasted a very good 2005, smelling of Merlot of Pomerol, with a pulpy mouth and none of the usual tannic aggressiveness. I scored it 15.75-16. However, during another tasting, the wine only scored 15-15.25. In between times, I found out that the owner, Mr Fayat, had just called in Jean-Luc Thunevin to restore the failing fortunes of La Dominique. I therefore expect more precision in the future expression of the cru. In theory, it should be able to rival its neighbours opposite, the greatest Pomerols. LA GOMERIE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 89 - 91 A highly coloured wine. The aromatic note is somewhat oxidative at the nose. This will change. The mouth is interesting in that it seems more mature than Beau Séjour Bécot, or at least, more tender for reasons of choice of grape variety. This said, despite the fat in mid-mouth, the finish remains slightly lively, meaning that it is marked by an acidic presence. I do not know if the malolactic fermentation is finished yet. LA SERRE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 86 - 87 A very fruity and delicately pulpy wine in the mouth. It has the tenderness and the gentle warmth of Saint-Emilion. Very good length with more aromas than substance. LA TOUR DU PIN FIGEAC MOUEIX Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 85 For once, I do not find this wine diluted, with harsh tannins. On the contrary, its softness evokes the suavity of the 1985 vintage for me. This cru has been recovering since Alain Moueix, who is in charge at Fonroque, has been taking care of it. LA TOUR FIGEAC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 88 - 89 I will say it again, this wine reminds me of a Graves from Pessac-Léognan. On its warm soil, the Merlot and the Cabernet Franc engender very ripe aromatic nuances. In the mouth, it appears refined to the touch and very seductive, with a tender body, soft tannins and a typical taste. LAFON LA TUILERIE Saint-Emilion 88 This growth was a discovery last year. Highly recommended. Price: 18,50 euros, tax included, for the private individuals and 11,50 euros, tax not included, for the professionals. Production: 12000 bottles. Very dark, intense crimson colour. Neat, strong, fresh nose. Juicy from attack, the wine develops ripe, even very ripe, fat and fruity, certainly rich in alcohol. A tannic finish needing to fade during maturing. I thought I would find more softness, but, given the very high TPI, I understand why it is lacking. Maturing will do its work as the evolution of the 2004 now shows. 14.5° alcohol. TPI 120. Yield: 38 hl/ha.LAMARTRE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 84 The estate is managed by the Union of Producers of Saint-Emilion. The colour and nose of this wine retain the attention. It smells nicely of ripe and fresh fruit. In the mouth, the body is a little crude and needs to fade during maturing. Lovely flavourful length, although simple. LARCIS DUCASSE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 89 - 91 I have tasted this three or four times with the same pleasure. Its aromatic profile and refined texture make it the best vintage of the estate tasted up until now. LARMANDE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 89 - 91My best score given to this cru as a Future. It is a great Larmande, the best I have tasted since 1989! The intensity of the colour and, even more so, of the aromas, the mixture of freshness and warmth, the pulp in the mouth and the fresh effect of the Cabernet produce a sensation of flesh and elegance. Very good length without harsh tannin. Plenty of pleasure. LAROQUE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 88 The colour is not as black as in other crus, but this one has a lovely aromatic note found on the limestone this year. In the mouth, the substance does not show itself as in other wines, and yet there is plenty! The aromatic side is much more developed than the structural side. The winemaker is careful with his work. This presentation reminds me of the gentle approach of Jean-Claude Berrouet working for Moueix. LAROZE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 88 Beautiful crimson colour. The nose has the warm strength of Saint-Emilion, balanced by a note of Merlot and lots of fruit. It gives itself up gently, with a delicately creamy consistence and a good corpulence. Long, coated tannin. LASSEGUE St-Emilion Grand Cru 92Coup de cœur.I did not like this estate of dry wines until Jess Jackson, a Californian owner, Barbara Banke and Pierre and Monique Seillan entered into partnership to buy Lassègue. Pierre Seillan, who comes from the Gers in south-west France, was working at Quandard’s. I met him a few years ago at Vinexpo New York when he introduced me to two beacon Californian wines which he makes: La Vérité and La Joie. In tasting the new style Lassègue, I immediately thought of Jean-Luc Thunevin’s approach to winemaking in 1992 and 1993 in Saint-Emilion when he launched Valandraud: the flesh took precedence over the aromatic perception. At the time, this luxuriant flesh was lacking in Bordeaux. If Jean-Luc Thunevin had not done the groundwork, the approach at Lassègue could be called revolutionary. Pierre Seillan tells of his mentor, Mr Quancard saying to him: “beware of wines that smell too nice when young”. The strength and the substance felt in Lassègue once more reveal the formidable potential of Saint-Emilion when work is done there with international vision. This said, as I like Château Margaux, Cheval Blanc, La Conseillante and many other Bordeaux crus whose production bears the signature of a particular aroma, I think that the pursuit of this could be the next qualitative step at Lassègue. This is something which has not yet been undertaken by some of its prestigious neighbours, situated on the same hillside. Will Lassègue be the first to do it? Crimson-black. Neat nose, very, very fruity, fresh and both floral and cocoa. A tender mouth from entry, very full in the middle. The wine develops pulpy, velvety and ample, with a very high fruity concentration (raspberry, cherry). At the finish, it fades with a complex taste and perfectly ripe and coated tannins. Great flavourful length. A must-have! 14.2° alcohol. Yield: 33hl/ha. pH 3.58 – TA 3.4. Planting density: 5,500 vines/ha. Blend: 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.LE PRIEURÉ St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 86 - 87 It is quite simply delicious, very fruity, delicately rounded and flavourful. LES GRANDES MURAILLES Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 85 - 86 The taste and the body are less pronounced than at the Clos St Martin, the other estate of Mrs Reiffers. Mid-mouth seems to me to be slightly insipid. A finish with very woody tannin. LES GRAVIÈRES Cuvée prestige Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 85 Intense, dark colour. Neat, discreet, fruity, fresh, floral nose. Tender and fairly discreet mouth. Normal length. LYNSOLENCE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 89 - 90 Crimson-black colour. Very fruity, ripe, fresh nose. Beautiful, fat mouth, developing flavourful and very, very fruity in the middle. The wine seems to me to be developing towards less wood than in previous years, or, at any rate, towards a better balance. Beautiful flavourful length with fleshy tannins. An ample, flavourful wine. It reminds me of the 1998. A success. MAGREZ FOMBRAUGE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 91 Intense, dark crimson red. The nose is more nuanced and especially more fresh in its fruit than Fombrauge. In the mouth, it is a delicious wine, rich in fruit, tannic but nuanced. Ample, it ends strong, long and still nicely fleshy, but also aromatic. It appears to me as less caricatural, less woody and less extracted than in the first vintages made. To me, it evokes a hillside wine of very good aging capacity. MATRAS Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 86 - 87 Beautiful bright, intense crimson red. Neat, mellow, fruity nose, and also fresh. The wine tightens right from entry, presenting density but also very lovely, fresh, ripe fruit. Lovely, slightly creamy corpulence. Persistent, heady, tannic finish. MILENS Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 86 - 87 Intense dark crimson. Nice fruity nose, delicately grilled. A very, very fruity wine, fresh and ripe but also marked by the wood at the finish. Maturing will tell us more. Lovely length. MOINE VIEUX Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 85Cuvée Prestige. Lots of fresh fruit, especially in the mouth. Tannic finish but quite long and, in the end, well coated. Lovely length. Do not miss this. MOULIN GALHAUD St-Emilion Grand Cru 85 Intense crimson colour. Neat nose of ripe and fresh fruit. A touch of spices. The sandy soils give this wine a charming lightness. It is well covered, without obvious tannins and with a tender body. Medium length. It will be agreeable to drink young if not too woody. MOULIN SAINT GEORGES St-Emilion Grand Cru 86 - 87 A wine which is animal at the nose, and suave in the mouth. Good strong tannic length. PATRIS Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 86 - 87 The wine is dense and very fruity, but still somewhat green in taste. Maturing will do the rest. Today, it offers two different sensations: maturity and a wild note. PAVIE DECESSE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 89 Intense, dark, red-black colour. The nose is fruity, mellow and creamy with a hint of cherry. It deserves to be fresher. Creamy mouth, melting in the first part. In the second, construction is slightly rough, and the wine finishes acrid and woody. There is a lack of precision in the flavour and grain of the tannin. PETIT FAURIE DE SOUTARD Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 83 The fruitiness of this wine in mid-mouth lacks brilliance. A simple finish. PETIT GRAVET AÎNÉ Saint-Emilion Grand Cru To be tasted again. PRIEURÉ LESCOURS Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 86 Crimson-black colour. Aromatic nose. A very fruity wine, with a silky touch in the mouth. The body is good and the profile rather elongated. Lovely length. ROCHER BELLEVUE FIGEAC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 85 A very fruity wine, still somewhat crude, but the touch in the mouth and the tannins are promising. Medium length. TOUR BALADOZ Saint-Emilion 84 An agreeable, fruity wine, with soft, aromatic tannins, of an easy, marketable type. Medium length. To be drunk young. VIEUX CLOS SAINT EMILION Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 85 A coloured wine, very fruity at the nose and lively in the mouth, with lots of fruit. Normal body. Lovely aromatic, fat length. Blend: 1/3 Cabernet Franc, 2/3 Merlot. 13.5° alcohol.VIGNOT Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 88The other estate vinified by the team of Lassègue. More sandy soils than Lassègue. Crimson colour. Neat nose, discreet, but with depth of fruit. Soft, pulpy mouth. The tender structure evokes sandier soils. Juicy in mid-mouth, this wine fades at the finish, strong, cocoa and long. Plenty of pleasure and especially perfectly covered tannins. VILLHARDY Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 87 Crimson-black colour. A nose of grilled coffee. Elongated structure in the fruity mouth, with a ripe taste and well coated tannins. A note of cocoa. Very long finish. Enjoy the Report. Jean-Marc Quarin

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Bordeaux Futures 2005: Thirteenth Report

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