Bordeaux Futures 2006: First report

Bordeaux Futures 2006: First resultsReport Number 1, April 2, 2007 Bordeaux’s 2006 vintage is a heterogeneous year. The wines vary in quality from good to excellent. In the excellent category, I count the best notes in the Medoc. On the Right Bank, Pomerol with its early warm soil outclasses Saint-Emilion with its cold limestone plateau. Fronsac is the astonishing outsider. In the middle of the range, I found wines there that are fatter than at Saint-Emilion. The September rains seem to have less effect on vineyards planted on slopes and in clay soil that is quickly impermeable. The vintage is exceptional for dry white wines. The best offer a truffle odor that I have never known in Bordeaux. The liquoreux wines vary from good to excellent. The quality of the red wines. The whole world talked aimlessly about Bordeaux after the harvest, in one blog or another, sometimes violently and often undocumented, saying that Bordeaux wouldn’t produce anything good because of the September rains. This pressure of ignorance was so strong that many professionals preferred to refrain from any communication. It must be said that, this being the case, they maintained that the reputation of 2005 was unmatched. And yet, before September 10, the potential quality of red grapes was judged to be unequalled, superior even to 2005. Why? Well, the exceptional heat in July allowed the vines to stop growing very early. A growing vine never nourishes its fruit well. To concentrate them, it has to suffer stress from lack of water, which stops growth. In this sense, July, 2006 seems to be consistent with the theoretical model. In September, it rained on the ripe grapes. Consequently, the 2006 wines are not vegetable. The vegetable character always results in thin body and tannins, which prevent pleasure. However, the common denominator of this year is the pleasant character of the wines. It is also due to the very meticulous tannic extractions practiced by the wine makers. Very colorful, the 2006 wines have a high degree of natural alcohol, good acidity, and strong tannic concentration, but they have neither the fat nor the luxuriance of the 2005 wines (I noticed only one classified Saint-Julien wine in 2006 superior to 2005.) According to the harvest date, I found two fruity expressions, one bright and clean, the other as though it were washed by the rain. On the Right Bank, all the wines have a fleshy entry. On the other hand, without exception (the vintage is heterogeneous), the strength in mid-mouth and the finish length remain average. Pomerol outclasses Saint-Emilion. On the Left Bank, especially in the Medoc, the wines have more presence in mid-mouth and a greater finish induced by the presence of very good cabernets sauvignons. 2006 is a difficult year because of rain that fell during the grape harvest (100 to 130 mm of water between September 11 and 30, of which, three-fourths fell between the 11th and the 20th). In spite of very good degrees of alcohol, many owners noted an absence of maturity in the skin and the seeds (phenolic maturity). They were torn between, on the one side, the desire to wait for optimal ripening, and on the other, the necessity to avoid grey rot (botrytis). In view of these facts, the results seem unhoped-for. They can be explained by the large quantity of grapes that were thrown away at harvest or eliminated on the sorting tables, but also by sanitary conditions that varied from one property to another. In the next reports, I will develop all these specific points and let you know about many new things. Here is one new thing: starting in 2006, the chateau La Tour Haut-Brion, a classified wine of Graves, no longer exists. The six hectares are, from now on, integrated into Mission-Haut-Brion’s acreage. The vineyard increases from 20 hectares to 26 hectares. In 2006, this addition allowed the production of a very good Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion that benefited from land hitherto incorporated in La Tour. For the moment, remember that 2006 is experiencing vintage success. Everyone was lucky, from the moment they applied themselves to the vines, during winemaking, and establishing selections without concessions for blending. Obviously, for equal work, the great "terroirs" had more assets at their disposal to succeed. In 2006, the first Medoc wines played big. They show that they want to reduce the volume of the first wines, they can still surprise and overtake their international competitors. For the first time, at Château Margaux, the first wine was less than 40% of the harvest. It is 36% in 2006, compared with 40% in 2005 and 42% in 2004. What price will these wines be worth? I advise subscribers to compare the notes given to the 2006 wines with those given to previous vintages by using the database at their disposal on the web site. The 2006 wines of the Right Bank Circle (Cercle de la rive droite )(First part) This association is formed of 129 estates spread out over the Right Bank. It was created in 2002 by Alain Reynaud, owner of Château Quinault. He injects into the group a lot of dynamism, as much in the field of external communication as in that of internal thought concerning the quality of the wine made by the members. The 2006 wines present a new softness of texture that distinguish them from the more angular style of the 2004 wines. Their ripe taste without vegetable gives them a gourmand profile. On the whole, save exception, I regretted an absence of strength in mid-mouth and depth in the finish. Bring your attention to the exceptions, the progress of La Fleur, of Fleur d’Arthus, of clos la Madeleine, of the Commanderie, clos des Jacobins et de Pressac, the confirmation of the high quality of Barde Haut and Fleur Cardinale, Faizeau’s refining, the surprising brilliance of La Rose Perrière in Lussac, of Fonroque and Grand Pontet’s rise in strength, the great success of La Marzelle, nevertheless downgraded, of Belfon Belcier and Destieux’s unexpected discretion, Quinault’s lovely feeling in the mouth, Chauvin’s applied assurance. BARDE HAUT St-Emilion Grand Cru 88 Lovely dark red. Good fruity, pure, ripe nose. Hints of vanilla and cherry. Aromatic. Nice entry, smooth, fruity, develops on a body with good consistence and very flavorful that evolves on wonderfully hidden tannin, to an aromatic finish where you never feel the tannin's harshness. Very fine work by Patrice LEVEQUE. Normal length. A charming wine in this not-so-easy vintage. BELLEFONT BELCIER St-Emilion Grand Cru 87 Lovely red, purple, good intensity, bright. Fine fruity nose, mixing toasty wood with refined aromatic notes. Tender and caressing in the mouth. It develops on an average body and pure fruit flavors. Fine, aromatic tannin. Well made without being exceedingly powerful. BOUTISSE St-Emilion Grand Cru 85 - 86 Lovely purple red, normal intensity. Discreet, fruity nose. Note slightly green. Entering gentle, developing to a normal fullness and fruited, flavorful tannin in its aftertaste. Average length. BRANDA Puisseguin-St-Emilion 84 Wine with average color. Aromatic nose smelling slightly of honey. Pleasant, tender structure finishing with discrete tannin. Average length. CHAUVIN St-Emilion Grand Cru 87 - 88 Lovely dark red. Good intensity. Excellent nose, fruity, ripe, and fairly intense. Subtle wood accompaniment. Mellow entry until the middle, developing smoothly with good consistency. Ripe, fruity flavor. Hidden, aromatic tannin. A successful wine in this not-so-easy vintage. Clos de LA COURONNE Montagne-St-Emilion 85 Very fine dark red. Good intensity. Bright. Fruity, fairly fresh nose. A bit less oxidative than at previous primeur presentations. Hints of wood. A fruity, medium-bodied wine, ending on hidden tannin with a toasted bread and coffee taste. Average length. CLOS DES JACOBINS St-Emilion Grand Cru 86 - 87 Lovely dark red, purple, beautiful. Fruity nose, average intensity. Hints of coffee. The wine starts large in the mouth, very fruity, rounded, with a structure of normal intensity. It develops flavorfully, falling into its structure at the finish. Well hidden tanin. Normal length. COTE DE BALEAU St-Emilion Grand Cru 86 Lovely dark red, purple. Good intensity. Fruity, somewhat fine nose, slightly woody. Ripe. Delicate, smooth taste with the tannin better balanced than in the presentation of other primeur wines. With good consistence, the wine finished long with toasted almond and red fruit flavors. Good work. DESTIEUX St-Emilion Grand Cru 87 Very lovely dark red, bright fringe. Fruity nose, average intensity. Subtly woody. Hints of ash. Taste much more pleasant and much less concentrated than other years. The wine has fruit but lacks fat to be one of the best, all the while having charm and balance. Average length. DU COURLAT Lussac-Saint-Emilion 84 - 85 Very lovely dark red. Discrete but fruity nose. Pleasant mouth, rounded at the start and in the middle. More discreet finish. Hidden tannin, slightly woody. Average length. FAIZEAU Vieilles Vignes Montagne-St-Emilion 85 - 86 Nicely colored wine, with a clear, pure, fruity nose. Tender and aromatic taste. It usually differs by a little more precision in the tannic extraction. Moderately long, tasty finish FAUGERES St-Emilion Grand Cru 85 - 86 Color dark red, purple. Intense. Fruity, aromatic nose. Nonetheless near oxidation. Hints of cherries and prune. Pleasant delicate taste. Fruity, caressing, flavorful, but average strength. Normal length. FERRAND LARTIGUE St-Emilion Grand Cru 85 - 86 Lovely dark red, average to good intensity. Fruity, slightly smoky nose, smelling of merlot. But the intensity remains average. Pleasant taste where the wine flows harmoniously in the mouth. The tannin is perfectly balanced, gentle, aromatic. However, the body is average. This is a wine to drink for pleasure, very favorably young. FLEUR CARDINALE St-Emilion Grand Cru 88 - 89 Very lovely dark red, good intensity. Intense, fruity, pure, ripe, creamy nose. The only wine with such a deep, alluring nose. Very nice entry bursting with fruit and especially dense. The wine develops smoothly, fruity, very flavorful with good balance and structure. It finishes with tannin present but always hidden by the fruit and flavor. Good, flavorful length. Aging will probably smooth its tannin. One of this year's successes. FONROQUE St-Emilion Grand Cru 88 - 89 In 2006 FONROQUE was approved as an organic farm. This vintage is a great success for Alain Moueix, who, over the years, succeeded in removing the rustic simplicity from this wine. Here, the choice of blend favors 90% merlot. Superb intense, bright purple red color. Fine, fruity, pure, ripe, aromatic nose. Powerful flavor, sappy, bursting with fruit, becoming subtle with a fine touch and a very nice construction. Rich in the middle of the mouth, it develops on tannin present, but always hidden. The flavors prevail at the finish and seem remarkable for this year in this vintage. Good length. This wine mixes a smooth, especially captivating note to its tannic structure. FRANC GRACE DIEU St-Emilion Grand Cru 84 - 85 Lovely red, bright, average intensity. Fruity nose. Smells of blackberries and cherries. Average intensity. Pleasant but light mouth, developing on a fruity taste and discreet tannin. Average length. GRAND PONTET St-Emilion Grand Cru 87 - 88 Lovely purple red, average intensity. Good nose, very fruity, vivid and even intense. Hints of vanilla, small berries call to mind the excellent Cabernet Franc. Very nice entry, tender and extremely fruity. The wine develops a good consistency, evolves slowly on a perfectly hidden tannin to a finish where flavor prevails. Good length. A wine that accumulates success since the 2001 vintage. GUIBOT LA FOURVIEILLE Puisseguin-St-Emilion 85 Lovely red, purple. Fruity, moderately intense nose, smelling of raspberry. Very fruity mouth, flavorful but with average strength. Well-hidden, aromatic tannin. Average length LA CLOTTE St-Emilion Grand Cru 85 - 86 Lovely dark red. Distinct nose, average intensity. Fruity. Hints of tobacco. Rounded, pleasant mouth on attack until the middle, becoming harder at the finish with tannin that still needs to be smoothed. Average length. LA COMMANDERIE (St-Emilion) St-Emilion Grand Cru 87 Lovely dark red, purple. Good intensity, Fruity nose, average intensity. Creamy nuances. Touch of coffee. A nice effort was made in this wine in 2006 to give it structure. The wine is smooth in the mouth, while being dense. It develops well-hidden tannin, slightly woody in aftertaste. Aging could tell us a bit more. A success and a revival under the impulse of Thibaut Decoster. LA FLEUR (St Emilion) St-Emilion Grand Cru 86 Very lovely dark red, good intensity. It is truly a beautiful color! Fruity, pure nose, good intensity. It astonished me a lot. But I know that Laurence Brun has worked very hard on this vintage. Particularly pleasant taste, developing on a rounded, extremely fruity body. The tannin is perfectly hidden and the balance induces salivation and the desire to swallow. It is delicious without being either powerful or too complex. A successful vintage. Good work. LA FLEUR D'ARTHUS St-Emilion Grand Cru 87 Lovely dark red, bright fringe, not very intense. Fruity nose, average intensity. Fresh. Astonishing taste, different from its peers. This wine combines three qualities: a slender body and, at the same time, sufficient density that it does not have the often skimpy character of thin profiles. Consequently, it develops smoothly. caressingly, aromatically, revealing its third quality: the most well-hidden tannin that I have ever known in this wine. Good length, flavorful and agreeable. A success in a different style from 2005, and more subtle. LA GRANGERE St-Emilion Grand Cru 85 - 86 Lovely dark red, good intensity, vivid. Truly pretty. Fruity nose, rather intense, smelling of plum and very ripe fruit. Caressing, suave, fruity mouth. Subtly smooth without being very corpulent. Well-hidden tannin, finishing with average length. A pleasure wine that can be drunk rather young. LANIOTE St-Emilion Grand Cru 84 Very lively dark red. Good intensity. Fruity nose. Fresh, well marked with wood, but discreet. Pleasant on entry, deepening a bit in the middle and finishing on firm tannin. The junction is not completely well made for the moment. Average length. LE FER St-Emilion Grand Cru 84 - 85 Lovely dark red, good intensity. Fruity nose, average intensity. Tender in the mouth on entry, moderately consistent in the middle, ending with more firm tannin at the finish. Could be more flavorful. Average length. PÉBY FAUGÈRES St-Emilion Grand Cru 88 Dark red, good intensity, purple, lovely. Fruity, ripe nose, average intensity. Delicately smooth. Hints of cherry. Taste particularly pleasant with as much merlot as you could want. It develops with good consistence and occupies the mid-palate well. Supple tannin and caressing body finish with a good aromatic length. ROC DE CALON Montagne-St-Emilion 83 - 84 Red, purple color, average intensity. Moderately fruity nose. Moderate consistence, finishing with tannin a bit firm. Wine that could be tastier. SAINT GEORGES COTE PAVIE St-Emilion Grand Cru 84 - 85 Dark red, average intensity. Discreet nose. Fruity. Slightly woody. Round, aromatic taste but average length body. Tannin well in place. VIEUX CHÂTEAU PALON Montagne-St-Emilion 85 Lovely dark red, good intensity. Fruity nose, average intensity, marked by new, toasty wood. Creamy, too. The mouth has average consistency, lightly creamy with hidden tannin and toasted notes at the finish. Wine whose extraction is more precise than usual. I will be back with you tomorrow with my next report. Jean-Marc Quarin

2006 Futures live

Bordeaux Futures 2006: First report

Subscribe

Subscription

Wine name	(Producer, appellation, etc.)