Chronicle 37. Great Classed Growths of Saint-Emilion 2005

Great Classed Growths of Saint-Emilion 2005 Chronicle n° 37 (March 1st, 2007) 2005 The vintage has brought out the best in the Merlot grape and offers structures with unprecedented fat and density. I wrote in my notes: 2005 – the pulp of the 98 and 2000 vintages and the tannic finish of the 61s that I have been tasting over the past ten years. To be sure, the aromatic expression of the Merlot evokes a sunny year, but without the scented drawbacks of an excess of maturity, that is to say, those very animal nuances at the nose which become disagreeable (“foxy”) as the bottle evolves. It has been known for a long time that limestone soils, which are colder and chillier, balance out the excesses of hot weather. This natural equilibrium which protects quality and complexity of taste does not exist on sandy soils. Now in 2005, due to the equal climate, the Merlot grape came to maturity without suffering from any excess. This is even truer on seemingly sandy parcels with a cold clayey subsoil. Obviously, the association of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and sometimes Cabernet Sauvignon is amazing once again. When it is not the terroir which plays the balancing role, then there is the Cabernet, just as mellow as the Merlot in 2005, but livelier, which brings the indispensable note of freshness. On rather chalky soils, there is still classicism, as represented by a tight rather than wide corpulence, but with the flesh of the 2005s as well. In conclusion, whatever the terroir of these Great Classed Growths of Saint-Emilion, sandy, sandy-clay, chalky, chalky-clay or gravel, the vintage fits all, so long as the work on the vines and in the chai was carried out well. In addition, over and above those nuances, remember that everywhere an unprecedented sensation of pleasure dominates the tasting. This pleasure comes from the presence of an incredible mellowness. But for all that, the wines remain rich in tannins and aromas as the final length shows. This mellowness will encourage the drinking of these wines while they are young. At the same time, quality tannins insure very favourable aging. 2005 is truly a very great vintage. 2003 Unlike 2005, the weather conditions of 2003 were much more favourable to chillier chalky or clayey soils and to sites of later rather than earlier vegetation. If you like slightly grilled aromas, notes of cocoa, triumphant entries followed by a mid-mouth so rounded as to be exuberant, with a creamy texture and a more or less tannic finish, then do not hesitate. While the expression of well-made crus on sandy soil (Dassault, Larmande, Corbin) has been limited by too much heat, those situated on the afore-mentioned terroirs have produced wines which are rich and very generous in taste and which have full, abundant bodies. Fleur Cardinale (90), Destieux (90), already noted as very successful have now almost been caught up by Laroze (89-90) as well as Grand Pontet (89-90). At the moment, I give these four crus a better score for the 2003 than for the 2005. All the other Great Classed Growths of Saint-Emilion have higher scores in 2005 than in 2003. Here is a summary of the 2005 tasted: BALESTARD LA TONNELLE / 87 I have never known it to have such a lovely nose. The mouth still remains of average strength. BELLEFONT BELCIER / 88-89 Here is the best vintage that I have tasted from this estate. The nose is pure and deep, the body pulpy, fat and delicately tight at the finish. Very long. BERGAT / 87-88 This is the best vintage I have tasted from this estate. The nose is very mature, the mouth suave and rounded, ending with elegant tannins. The body is average. CAP DE MOURLIN / 84 This wine is marked by the wood and has a lot less flesh than others. CHAUVIN / 88 The nose offers a note of lightly cooked fruit but the mouth has never been so dense or so nobly concentrated. Here is pleasure and a wine to keep. A success. CLOS DE L’ORATOIRE / 87 This wine is all pulp and roundedness. I have never known it to be so rich and powerful. DASSAULT / 89 The most intense colour ever seen. The purest nose ever smelt. The most structured mouth ever tasted. And, what is more, it still has the charm of roundedness. Very great length. Highly recommended. CLOS DES JACOBINS / 87-88 Here is the most structured wine that I have ever tasted from the estate. Velvety, flavourful and tannic, it is also very aromatic. GRAND CORBIN / 87 To its elongated style, the vintage adds flesh and a final depth which I have never known in it before. GRAND CORBIN D’ESPAGNE / 87 The nose is discreet. Here again, it is the velvetiness and the density of the weave which astonish me the most at the finish. HAUT CORBIN / 86 The tannins are slightly less enveloped than in other wines, but the length is good. CORBIN / 88 This is the best wine in the Corbin district: the purest on the nose and the most precise in construction of the mouth. It is velvety, flavourful and dense. There has been a lot of hard work here. Highly recommended. CANON LA GAFFELIERE / 91 This is a great success from the estate. The wine mixes very mature nuances which are a shade exotic to a strong, velvety body. Very great finish. Very great composition. CLOS SAINT MARTIN / 91 This wine often smells of plum like its neighbour, Beauséjour Duffau Lagarosse. The 2005 has the tactile qualities of the greatest wines. I regret to find a slightly woody note in the second part of the mouth, but what a wonderful final aroma! DESTIEUX / 88-89 A new cru in the classification. It has the fresh nose of wines made on chalky soil. The mouth has a creamy texture with a taste of cherry and distinguished tannins. Great length. Here is pleasure and potential. FLEUR CARDINALE / 88-89 A new cru in the classification. It has the bluest colour of the whole tasting. A brilliantly fruity nose which I have never known to be so fine (more than 2003). The mouth is as voluminous as a Pomerol and slightly tannic. A great finish. A lovely wine for keeping. FONPLEGADE / 86 I find it much better now than as a Future when I judged its fruitiness to be lacking in freshness. Normal corpulence. Aromatic tannins. FONROQUE / 88-89 A deep, bright colour. A very fresh, fine nose. The velvety mouth is caressing and powerful, offering chalky-type tannins at the finish. This “chalk” aspect typifies it hugely. Apart from that, the quality of the work is impeccable. LARMANDE / 88 It stands out from its peers thanks to a remarkable tannic softness, and yet the substance is rich. It will be very pleasant to drink even young. One of the loveliest compositions ever seen from this estate. GRAND PONTET / 87 The bright colour shows the presence of chalk. The lovely nose is intense, fresh, fine, fruity and ripe. The mouth is pulpy, rounded, suave and very fruity with unexaggerated tannins and a lovely softness. This will also be very pleasant when drunk young. LA CLOTTE / 84 The body lacks velvetiness, especially at the finish. LANIOTE / 84 The length is correct but the wine lacks charm due to austere final tannins. LATOUR FIGEAC / 87-88 This is very different from the other Saint-Emilion wines due its gravelly terroir. Its smoked nose evokes the Left Bank. The mouth is charming and succulent. It is a strong wine with fresh aromas and a more ethereal structure than other Saint-Emilion wines. A great success from the estate. LAROZE / 88-89 From behind its very dark colour, it offers a floral nose which distinguishes it from many others. The mouth is ample, juicy and strong, but always have tannic nuances. A great success from the estate. LA DOMINIQUE / 83 The mouth disappointed me by its lack of fat and its dry substance. It was high time that Jean-Luc Thunevin was called in to this estate (from the 2006 vintage). LARCIS DUCASSE / 88 A lovely bright colour. The very lovely nose is intense, fine, and fruity, rather like Berliquet. The mouth is silky with distinguished aromas and tannins. A normal body with a lively edge to the final tannins. LES GRANDES MURAILLES / 87-88 A very lovely colour and a very lovely nose of cherry and spice. The mouth has a delicate, original fat all through. Coated tannins and distinguished smoked flavours. There is style in this cru. MATRAS / 84 A wine which is austere in the second part of the mouth. The finish is rustic. LE PRIEURE / 86-87 The nose is fine, fruity and pure. Floral and liquorice notes. The mouth is very charming, offering very lovely balance and measured tannic extraction. Delicate fat through the mouth. The tannin does not cramp the aromas. A wine without austerity. SAINT GEORGES COTES PAVIE / 85 I do not find the alluring fat of the vintage in this wine. Average length. RIPEAU / 84 It offers one of the finest noses ever seen on the estate, but, in the mouth, it still finishes as tannic and simple as ever. BERLIQUET / 91 It is the only wine of this tasting to have a nose worthy of a First Great Classed Growth. The mouth is delicate, suave, well-shaped and finely ribbed at the finish. Despite the strength, the tannins are never felt. Very aromatic persistence. A delicious wine. SOUTARD / 85 As a whole, it is relatively simple. The wine lacks substance. And yet, even as it is, it has accents of a good pedigree. The insurance company La Mondiale, already the owner of Larmande, bought this estate in September 2006. Now, Soutard and Larmande are neighbours, so Claire Thomas has taken responsibility for both terroirs which are, however, different, Larmande being sandier and Soutard chalkier. This represents a fine challenge to show two different concepts of what is good. I believe that Soutard has great potential although the cru has disappointed me over the last few years. To be followed … My next Chronicle will be published on March 15th. The Report on the evolution of the 95 vintage has fallen behind, but is under way. The 23,000 commentaries of my data base with a link to prices and sellers are coming up. English-speaking readers will see more notes than commentaries as not all have yet been translated. Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: All rights reserved. No part of this article may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the author: Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, 33320 Le Taillan-Médoc. France. Tél. 00 33 (0)5 56 35 83 93. Fax 00 33 (0)5 56 35 86 50. E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr

2007 Chronicles

Chronicle 37. Great Classed Growths of Saint-Emilion 2005

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