Chronicle 42. 1995 Bordeaux reds ten years later

1995 Bordeaux reds Ten years later My notes for them have dropped! Chronicle n° 42 (June, 18th 2007) New!For the first time, you will read my comments for the same wine non-decanted and decanted, taken from the same bottle. - You will also read the conclusions of a statistic analysis of my notes about the vintage. - Lastly, you will read the comparison between the wines tasted in your cellars and those tasted at the châteaux, as I did to follow the evolution of the 1983 and 1994 wines. It is necessary to choose wines that present the least variation from one bottle to another. VALUE OF THE 1995 VINTAGE BY APPELLATION UNTIL 2006 Apellations 1995 Average 95-06 Rank 1995 Graves-Pessac Red 88.2 89.1 11 Fronsac-Canon-Fronsac 86.3 86.5 7 Pomerol 89.9 90.4 7 St-Emilion 89.5 89.9 8 Haut-Médoc 85.5 85.7 9 Margaux 89.1 89.5 7 Médoc 85.8 85.1 4 Pauillac 89.3 90.4 10 St-Estèphe 87.1 87.8 10 St-Julien 89.0 89.8 10 Red 87.9 88.4 10 What to remember about this statistical analysis? 1 – The analysis of this average position shows the progress of Bordeaux wines over twelve years. Is the public really aware of it? I do not think so. It is probable that this improvement in quality makes the price of the wines climb little by little. 2- Among the last twelve years, 1995 seems like an average year for the left bank and below average for the right bank. It holds only the eighth position at Saint-Emilion and the seventh at Pomerol. However, this year holds a certain reputation in the public mind. It can be explained by the fact that 1995 followed such difficult years as 91, 92, 93 and 94. I recommend that you resell certain wines in order to buy better ones. 3- With this new tasting 10 years later, the average score drops by 0.1 point. The principal reason is the dry tannins found in too many wines. I do not think that keeping will improve them. It would be a bet too risky to try. About the vegetative cycle and its relationship to the taste of the wine 1995 was an early year that had a hot, dry summer, especially in June and July. August was less sunny than in the great years. Certain vineyards, overpowered by this dryness, were blocked in their vegetative development to the point of producing dry tannins. This process especially concerned young vines with more sensitive, surface roots. However, in 1995, because of the rebirth of high quality viticulture, the young plants were abundant. For economic reasons, their wine was not always kept out of the final blend. This cycle ended in September in the rain. On average, 80 to 90 mm of water, sometimes more (110 mm at Pessac Léognan) fell between September 11 and 19, at the worst time. This water caused dilution. In addition, the authorized yields were higher than in 1994, a year even more strongly drenched during the grape harvest. The modesty of certain bodies and the dry tannins at the finish are explained by these facts. Regions 1995 is more of a right-bank than a left-bank year, with lovely success at Saint-Emilion et Pomerol. Saint-Emilion 1995 is a good vintage for this appellation where clay-limestone and limestone soils, less sensitive to drought, are dominant. On this limestone, the 1995 wines offer more body. Yet, the most industrious estates, located on a more sandy soil (Corbin, Larmande) today present charming wines. The first great classified estates dominate the appellation. In their midst, the newcomers in this classification in 2006 (Troplong Mondot and Pavie Macquin) prove to be the best. Among these first, the comparison decanted - not decanted is never to the advantage of the non-decanted wine. On the other hand, within the great classified estates, ( always ready to try new techniques) it happens that this comparison establishes the non-decanted wine as the best. I initially thought of the extreme sensitivity of merlot in contact with air. Today I lean towards the possibility of a dangerous use of the micro bubbling technique, which may have affected the capacity of these wines to stand the contact with the air. Thus, practicing a systematic decantation is no longer as justified as it was at the time where wines has a really traditional aging. It's a pity that the consumer knows nothing about it. Decanting can damage more than improve, and can accentuate the dryness of the tannin instead of softening it. As a whole, especially on limestone soils, the year 1995 conserves its keeping capacities. You can even wait until 2010-2012 before serving them, and even until 2020. Pomerol The 95 is ready to drink. It appears very open for this appellation with a fragrance of evolution more developed than elsewhere. It comprises odors of cedar, of brandied fruits, animal and creamy notes. As often with this vintage, there are two kinds of mouth structures: dry and fatty. My great regret concerns the l’Eglise Clinet. Spectacularly successful in its youth, I tasted it twice, disappointingly, in private cellars. In the Médoc The wines are less pleasant than at Saint-Emilion and Pomerol. Within the AOC Médoc and Haut-Médoc, they seem more ready to drink than in communal appellations. For the latter, the fragrance of ageing is just beginning to occur. The vintage shows tannic firmness, without vegetable aspects. It is advisable to keep them until 2010 before serving them. Saint-Estèphe The wines are a bit liquid and are marked by austere tannins. Fat and smoothness are lacking. Cos d' Estournel offers the most charming wine of the AOC. As for Calon Ségur, which tasted badly in a private cellar, the estate does not wish to have it tasted again, saying that “it is of a different era”. Not very encouraging for those who own it! Pauillac The wines are better sustained in the mouth than Saint-Estèphe, with finer tannins. The results remain mixed and the underlying structures are lacking. Grand Puy Lacoste produced a beautiful bottle with delicious balance. Saint-Julien It is the most successful appellation in the Médoc. Lagrange, Branaire are sure values from the start. No drying here. Gloria passes in front of Saint-Pierre. Gruaud Larose holds its own well. Moulin de la Rose is a heavenly surprise. Ducru Beaucaillou, although irregular, offers the most touching bottle of the appellation and one of the greatest wines of the vintage. Margaux In 1995 this appellation barely started to emerge from its sluggish quality. Château Margaux dominates completely. It is necessary to wait until 1999 for Palmer to come close to it. Marquis de Terme is a lovely bottle. Pessac Léognan Pessac outmatches Léognan. The wines made with a more subtle balance, which seemed to lack force in their youth, now occupy the first place. I think of a comparison between Pape Clement, almost too well extracted, and Les Carmes Haut-Brion. After a long twelve-hour decantation, Les Carmes comes out ahead while Pape Clement shows notes of greenness and alcohol. At Léognan, Haut-Bailly has never tasted as good as now. The good surprise comes from tasting the second wine Bahans Haut Brion and La Chapelle de la Mission Haut Brion. They are absolutely delicious, very open on the aromatic level and without tannic roughness. Variations from one bottle to another, decantation The 1995 vintage has a weakness: tannins that are often dry and unpleasant in second part of mouth. This characteristic is often accentuated in bottles that have traveled or were badly kept. Very often, the best bottles that I tasted had not left the château. But this dryness can also be a sign of failure of the cork. It is essential to decant this vintage about fifteen minutes before serving it, and especially not to double decant it, that is, to put it back in its original bottle. This double decantation, laminar or turbulent, also tends to dry. 1995 Quality-Price Ratio (sources winedecider.com) 1995 is exactly in middle of the last twelve vintages, but far behind 1996, which is the vintage whose average price ratio is the best (followed by 2002, 2003 and 2004). Enjoy the Chronicle. The next chronicle will appear monday July 2. Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: All rights reserved. No part of this article may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the author: Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, 33320 Le Taillan-Médoc. France. Tél. 00 33 (0)5 56 35 83 93. Fax 00 33 (0)5 56 35 86 50. E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr

2007 Chronicles

Chronicle 42. 1995 Bordeaux reds ten years later

Subscribe

Subscription

Wine name	(Producer, appellation, etc.)