Chronicle 45. Bordeaux 2007: the outlook

Bordeaux 2007: the outlook Prospective Impertinence New Chronicle n° 45 (Septembrer 3rd, 2007) BORDEAUX 2007: THE OUTLOOK Since my last chronicle on July 14th, the climate situation of the 2007 vintage has not progressed. We now know that August, which has been rainy from the 18th to the 24th, did not make it up for the months of June and July that were already of below average heat to produce a great vintage. Quite the contrary indeed, and if there is still hope, quite naturally it is focused on September’s weather. Nevertheless, the best producers are not passive. They mix serenity and fatality. As said by Jacques Thienpont from château Le Pin, “We should not have large heads, we work in the variable domain that is agriculture.” Despite regrets, serenity can be felt at estates where vineyards have been well prepared. At Chateau Lagrange for instance, for the first time, de-leafing was performed on the entire property in July. At the time, caution would have recommended only to perform it partially in prevention of a month of August that could have been too hot. At Chateau Ausone, it is been said that work in the vineyards (green harvesting, crop-thinning, de-leafing, etc) has cost three to four times what it cost for the 2006 vintage. At Chateau Palmer, Thomas Duroux has accounted an extra 300 men hours per hectares, about 30% more than usual. “The vines are ready” says Patrice Lévèque from Château Haut-Bergey. This generalization of hard work is provoking some effects on the quality of the grapes totally unknown from the public opinion. For me, I essentially believe that wine taste’s depends on the quality of the work performed by men who produce it. Therefore, I observe that in Bordeaux, this increasing human involvement plays a plug part on the excess of climate as much important as terroir itself. Therefore, the question is asked to know to which extent these human interventions can compensate the limits of 2007 vintage’s climate (leveling-up training height, crop-thinning, de-leafing, removing -“entre-coeur”- the youngest twigs grown from the main branches and making grapes spread in the vines). After all, 2006 a wet vintage so inclined to the development of Bordeaux boletus mushrooms did produce a good result thanks to man’s hard work, didn’t it? Given the climate conditions of 2007, I expected far worse while visiting vineyards. Actually, for quality reds, the attacks from mildiou are well controlled, the health of vines is good and the volume of grapes to be produced seems quite high. Between august 19th and 24th, rainfall were between 70 to 110 mm, thus inflating grapes. Those grapes taste more or less sugary, but the firmness of the skin attests their lack of maturity. On vines where training height’s has been leveled-up, maturity is more advanced. Nobody is anticipating harvest of the reds before the 15th to the 20th of September, except if health conditions would worsen. These worries are justified. In fact, after the last rains, it has been very hot Sunday August 26th and Monday 27th. Those were real summer days with evening temperatures from 26°C to 29°C and a very high level of humidity in the air. The following day, on Tuesday August 28th, it rained in the morning but it was very hot during the afternoon. This tropical atmosphere well inclined to the development of grey rot is a source of worries. Some has decided not to wait any longer for harvesting white grapes. Yet, as early as the following day, a brutal change of weather took place during late afternoon. The temperature dropped to 17°C. Since then, cold nights and mild temperatures during daylight have stopped rot from further developing. Haut Brion has slowly started harvesting its white wines on Tuesday August 28th, then stopped on the 29th, due to the rains in the morning. At Haut-Bergey, picking was scheduled on the Thursday. Due to the cold weather conditions, it has been postponed. For Patrice Lévèque, the grapes are not enough ripe. Yet, some estates are harvesting, they have made other choices, strategic, financials and in tastes. PROSPECTIVE A lesser vintage in Bordeaux would lower the generally high level of confidence that has been so favorable to the 2006 vintage, and this, even though 2006 had received mix critics on the quality of the vintage. This confidence rules since 2003. It even has made prices of the 2004 rise while still in barrels. Such situation is a first in the history of Bordeaux wines where a vintage that is crunched between two great vintages has a doomed commercial destiny. To this bottom line consequence, would add-up the effect of the market. Fear from negociants not to be able to sell the 2007 vintage would incite them buying more 2006 and lead prices to rise. Finally one may ask, how much would the 2007 vintage sell for? In this situation, 2005 appears to be blue-chip stock. Both properties, and negociants are keeping their stocks of 2005 wines. For me, it is a fantastic vintage, higher in quality to 2000 for 95% of the case. I am proud of having witnessed, told and explained it very early. If the powerful American critics really realize it (still fascinated by the 2003 where they have not seen the limit of the quality compared to 2005), prices on the 2005 will rise. I invite all of you to buy more 2005. I am even thinking about dedicating an issue to that topic during September just to emphasize on it once more. If September’s weather is nice enough to deliver some typicity to the 2007 wines, the economical jolts will be lesser important, yet still existing on the best wines. The next few weeks will be key for the local economy as well as for the financial value of private cellars. IMPERTINENCE The world of wine is full of prejudice. One of the most consistent about Bordeaux wines deals with the ratio between quality and price. Believing that a bottle of Bordeaux is of good quality because of its expensive price is pure ignorance. The following are notes from a recent dinner where the goal was to compare great and expensive vintages to other vintages both cheaper and of lesser reputations, both vintages coming from the same château. All bottles have been purchased by the participants of the dinner. LA CONSEILLANTE 2000 (average price 178 euros VAT exc.) versus 2001 (average price 71 euros VAT exc.) No questions asked, the cheapest is the best, hands down. The 2000 (rated 91) is a very good wine, but the nose lacks precision and texture in mouth to be a great wine. It delivers pleasure to be drunk. Its length stays average. The 2001 (rated 97) is a majestic wine, delivering an intense and complex nose with truffle aromas. Extremely well built in mouth, it is pulpy, gentle and tasty. It finishes, woven, very long on a fantastic grain. PAVIE MACQUIN 2000 (average price 69 euros VAT exc. ) versus 2001 (average price 38 euros VAT exc.) The 2000 (rated 92) finishes ahead but close and the price is in favor of the 2001 (rated 91). Not decanted, the nose of the 2000 wins with more depth. Decanted, the 2001 is on par. On the palate, the 2001 is just a tad more vivid, with more tension making it more tasty. On the contrary, the 2000 shows more pulp, softness, richness, and a very promising length if the taster knows how to projects himself in the future. The 2001 is very charming as of now. While the 2000 delivers on expectations, the 2001 exceeds them and makes itself a wine of choice. TROPLONG MONDOT 2003 (average price 46 euros VAT exc.) versus 2001 (average price 41 euros VAT exc.) The 2001 (rated 90) wins with a fresher and more nuanced nose. Its mouth delivers more density. The wine is currently a bit oaky. The 2003 (rated 89) is inferior in terms of body and its finish is a bit dry. CLOS FOURTET 2003 (average price 51 euros VAT exc.) versus 2001 (average price 34 euros VAT exc.) My preference goes to the 2001 (rated 91), better rated and cheaper. Tasted many times these past few months from bottles that had been bought; this wine shows to be delicious today. It delivers a wonderful tannic balance, and a silky sensation flatters the pleasure. The 2003 (rated 90) reveals the great work based on freshness from the winemakers in such canicular vintage. Even more, no tannic dryness whatsoever wastes the finish. Here is an excellent guarantee to a very good ageing. CALON SEGUR 2003 in bottle (average price 60 euros VAT exc.) versus LAFON ROCHET 2003 in magnum (average bottle price 26 euros VAT exc.) The cheapest wins with brio. The magnum does not change the result. On the contrary, I was afraid of the wines’ youth and firm tannins. Neither happened. The nose of Lafon Rochet (rated 91) blows in freshness the one from Calon Ségur. The palate displays a very good body where energy and smoothness blend together. It has a beautiful tasty length. The Calon Ségur (rated 88-89) is a bit flat on the nose, with a nice and tender mouth feel, but is lacking concentration to be considered a great wine. NEW You can now follow live on my website the evolution of the weather in Bordeaux. (only available in the French version for now). INFORMATION : CONFERENCE AT THE WINE BUSINESS CLUB OF PARIS On Thursday, 27th of September at 6:00 PM, I will host a conference on the following theme: “Do the great wines of Bordeaux still have a future?” (ou “Is there still a future for the great wines of Bordeaux?”) Featuring Hubert Arnaud (from château Du Tourtre), Philippe Faure-Brac (best sommelier of the world) and Patrick Maroteau (president of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux). Happy back to school time to everyone! Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: All rights reserved. No part of this article may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the author: Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, 33320 Le Taillan-Médoc. France. Tél. 00 33 (0)5 56 35 83 93. Fax 00 33 (0)5 56 35 86 50. E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr

2007 Chronicles

Chronicle 45. Bordeaux 2007: the outlook

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