Chronicle 46. La Conseillante versus L'Evangile versus Vieux Chateau Certan. Match Play on the 2002, 2001, 2000, 1998, 1996, 1994 and 1990 vintages (first part), purchased bottles

Bordeaux 2007: the trend (Part 2) La Conseillante, L'Evangile and Vieux Château Certan in the blind tasting - Match Play on the 2002, 2001, 2000, 1998, 1996, 1994 and 1990 vintages (first part) Chronicle n° 46 (Septembrer 17th, 2007) BORDEAUX 2007: THE TREND (Part 2) As I write these lines, during this evening of Friday September 14th, the vineyards of Bordeaux has been enjoying 16 straight days of sunshine. The climate has been sunny and dry with smooth daily temperatures and cool nights, even cold at times. As for the reds, will it be sufficient to make up for the lack of heat in July and August? Some believe so and others doubt it. Yet, a big and very positive step has been accomplished. The weather forecast seems favorable. From now on, every day counts. As for the white wines, there is no questioning anymore. The large majority has been harvested in very good conditions. The continental character of the climatology of September (good light and smooth temperature during the day, balanced by fresh nights) is ideal for aromatic concentration. The first results take note of the great success of the sauvignon blanc: it has nice alcohol level, normal PH, nice acidity, and average yield. Some compare it to the superb 2006. The Semillon has much more suffered from rain and dilution. Its quality appears inferior to 2006. Sauternes is waiting for the rain! A first round of picking took place after the development of Botrytis induced by the rains of mid-august. As of now, the lack of humidity and cold nights (less than 10°C) are preventing development of Botrytis. The grapes are ripe. A short round of rains followed by sunshine would be welcome. Nevertheless, even without noble rot, the natural sugar concentration in the harvested grapes is excellent (Clos Haut-Peyraguey, Nairac, and Guiraud mention of 23° of potential alochol). The harvest of overall whites seems to be of small volume. Such report tends to sustain the strong price trends on the vintage. Red wines: Crucial waiting ! Now that the fear of is in the past, one can now observe a slow maturation process. The sugar concentration is progressing normally and the acidity is lowering slower than usual. As for the tannins, the skins are still very thick, attesting the lack of ripeness even on soils of early ripening. Debate about merlot. Consensus on Cabernet. Regarding cabernet sauvignon and the great terroirs of the Medoc and Graves, the peak of ripeness seems to be still far away. This is a classic situation, and harvest will happen in October. Regarding the merlot, of earlier ripening, the opinions vary. Overall, (but can we really say overall on this vintage?) it is not really ripe yet, even on Pomerol soils that have a reputation to be hot. Merlot will need to be even more awaited for on the limestone soils of the plateau of Saint Emilion. Some professionals who are not fond of excessive interventionism in the vineyards such as de-leafing on the eastern face, and especially de-leafing on the western face as soon as the month of July, do think that some merlot that have faded skins following this inopportune exposure will not have the capacity to wait without harm until a harvest time which happens late. On the contrary, different vineyard management (de-leafing on the eastern side in July, but de-leafing on the western side towards the end of august or early September) would allow in 2007 for a later harvest more favorable to synchronize ripeness of aromatics and tannins’ ripeness. The fresh flavor of the fruit would not be lost in favor of more cooked notes and very standardized of “prune” type. Obviously, the grapes that are hanging below vines that are exposed from having been cleared from the low leaves are fading and concentrating from evaporation rather than the ripening process. (For more information on that topic, please refer to Chronicle n°28. You can also read again the letter from producer/consultant Patrick Valette in the What’s New section of the website) Will these grapes that have lesser fresh skin keep a perfect health state, the only condition to acquire late ripeness. Some doubt it, adding up the fact that these merlot vines have finished their vegetative cycle. Further waiting will not bring anything to their current lack of ripeness. While we wait for what is going to happen next, the 2007 vintage is fascinating to follow. Differences both in what is being said and what is being practiced engender questions on the “viticulture science”. CAN ONE DISTINGUISH LA CONSEILLANTE, L’EVANGILE AND VIEUX CHATEAU CERTAN IN A BLIND TASTING, MATCH PLAY ON THE 2002, 2001, 2000, 1998, 1996, 1994 AND 1990 VINTAGES This tasting was organized to answer my curiosity regarding these 3 major estates located next to each other’s on the plateau of Pomerol. The tasting took place at a friend’s in Switzerland. He owns all of these bottles since buying them as future. Ten other attendees did participate to this very pleasant event. This is the transcript of the tasting in the order of serving, which happened blind, and non-decanted. Below is the first part. The synthesis and part two will be published in the next chronicle on Monday October 1st. First series: 1998 This series is disappointing and to be filed into the category of “There is no great wines, only great bottles”. The general expression of this vintage was missing. LA CONSEILLANTE 1998 / Potential score: 85 Green on the nose, with bell pepper notes, the wine lacks body and width. This description meets another one from a tasting last year at the Chateau. Yet, in 2004, at a restaurant, I have tasted a sumptuous bottle and did rate it 95. During a presentation organized by the estate at Lavinia, a retailer in Paris, some readers had told me about how disappointing was this 98. L’EVANGILE 1998 / Potential score: 89-89 – Pleasure score: 87 The color is slightly evolved, the nose refined, ripe and animal. The mouth feel is superb. The wine presents itself tasty and with melting tannins on the finish. Yet, it lacks width in the mid palate as well as length. VIEUX CHATEAU CERTAN 1998 / Potential score: 88-89 – Pleasure score: 87 An unrecognizable wine! Even more since another bottle from the same original wooden case had dominated both Petrus and Le Pin from the same vintage. At the time, the wine was enchanting and I had rated it 95. This time, nothing! Second Series: 1990 Of evolved colors, the noses are evoking some nice evolution bouquet. Nothing distinguishes precisely those three wines. Overall, this vintage did not produce more emotion than the younger wines. This perception indicates so very much how quality has progressed in ten years. VIEUX CHATEAU CERTAN 1990 / Potentiel score: 91 – Pleasure score: 90 Evolved color. Refined nose of plum, tar and meat aromas. The palate is hurled and of long shape as Alexandre Thienpont likes them. Complex aromas of ripe fruits. Smooth tannins. Cool ambiance. The body lacks a bit of volume. To drink now and before 2012-2015. LA CONSEILLANTE 1990 / Potential score: 91 – Pleasure score: 88 This La Conseillante possess the most fresh nose of all three and presents itself complex. The palate, quite wide and fleshy offers some body and taste, with aromatic nuances of cedar and tight tannins on the finish. This is a wine that is very enjoyable, with a nose more promising than its palate. Drink before 2015-2020. L’EVANGILE 1990 / Potential score: 92 – Pleasure score: 90 The color is evolved and the nose intense, complex, with cedar and ripe fruits aromas. Brilliant on the palate entrance, the wine develops tender, gentle and aromatic, very tasty. After the mid-palate, the body becomes narrower, and the finish, of cedar taste evokes cabernet flavors. Overall it lacks a bit of richness, but the aromatic nuances are enchanting. Can be drunk now and before 2020. Third Series: 2000 The three wines are colorful but also very complex on the nose. From this series, L’Evangile can be picked thanks to a toastier note than its neighbors. Most people attending the tasting thought these wines were from 2001. Why? They point out some dissatisfaction in the finish of these 2000 that they imagine coming from a lesser reputation vintage. They are wrong and will stay puzzled by the very high quality of the following series: The 2001s. As for me, it has been over a year now that I have been pointing you on these 2001 to let you know that many of them, especially in Pomerol present some finish with tannins ripper than the 2000. L’EVANGILE 2000 / Potential score: 95 – Pleasure score: 94 This is great wine! Deeply colored, it smells good of almonds, a grilled note and cedar aromas. The palate is majestic, powerful but tasty, dense and very fruity. Some very pure and complex flavors join the tannins that are melting and aerial. The wine is un-spittable, and offers a very high pleasure dimension for its age. Tasted twice at this level since this past June. Do not restrict yourself from serving it right now and before 2030-2050. VIEUX CHATEAU CERTAN 2000 / Potential score: 92 – Pleasure score: 88 Dark and intense color. Very expressive nose, complex, rich and very pure. Notes of coffee. The mouth starts smooth, then tightens in the mid-palate before finishing on tannins a bit rough that are evoking a ripeness that was just reached. The flavor is beautiful, but the body lacks precision in its texture. I recommend waiting until 2012. LA CONSEILLANTE 2000 / Potential score: 91 – Pleasure score: 89 The color is dark, but the nose less pure than Evangile and Vieux Château Certan. Remember that La Conseillante neither had a dedicated cellar master nor a managing director at the time. This change only took place in 2001. The wine starts wide on the palate, quite rich but presenting some vivid notes. It lacks precision in taste as well as in texture. It tastes like some already old winemaking. I recommend waiting until it gets more nuances and before 2020-2030. Fourth Series: 2001 The wines are dark colored, with noses less profound then 2000. L’Evangile presents a more evolved color than its peers. Overall, this series is the revelation of the tasters. The organizer wanted to check my sayings about their quality. La Conseillante and Vieux Chateau Certan are better than 2000, L’Evangile is not. LA CONSEILLANTE 2001 / Potential score: 97 – Pleasure score: 94 La Conseillante has a very subtle, great nose. It has both great purity and great freshness. This is a magical wine in the mouth, of incredible texture grace. The wine is impossible to spit. Very high pleasure mark. It can start to be drunk now and before 2020-2030. VIEUX CHATEAU CERTAN 2001 / Potential score: 94-95 – Pleasure score: 92 The wine is dark colored, it has a refined but discreet nose in which can be found blackberry and cedar notes with a hint of alcohol. The palate is deliciously aromatic. Of quite hurled constitution, it presents some fatness. The fruit is intense and vivid which gives a very tasty character to the wine. After the mid-palate, its aromas intensify even more in a magnificent finish, of very classy tannic grains. I drink it quite often with food. You can wait and consume it until 2030. Very classy style. L’EVANGILE 2001 / Potential score: 87-88 – Pleasure score: 85 Wine of evolved color. Nose of roasted character, almost too much. The very flattering opening on the palate that is typical of the estate is witnessed. But the wine fades in the mid-palate and finishes on firm tannins, a bit rustic and oaky. The tannins are dryer than those tasted on another bottle this past June. But for sure, this 2001 is from lower quality than its sibling 2000. To be continued, in the next chronicle on Monday October 1st. Feedbacks and comments are welcome. Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: All rights reserved. No part of this article may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the author: Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, 33320 Le Taillan-Médoc. France. Tél. 00 33 (0)5 56 35 83 93. Fax 00 33 (0)5 56 35 86 50. E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr

2007 Chronicles

Chronicle 46. La Conseillante versus L'Evangile versus Vieux Chateau Certan. Match Play on the 2002, 2001, 2000, 1998, 1996, 1994 and 1990 vintages (first part), purchased bottles

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