Bordeaux Futures 2007: Results (Part 3)

2007 Sweet Bordeaux wines: from Good to ExcellentThird Report (April 4th, 2008) This vintage’s character is of the presence of a high content of residual sugar in the wines. Surprisingly, this richness in sugar has been witnessed from early September while botrytis wasn’t really settled. Before September 15th, Yquem, Guiraud, Nairac, and Clos Haut-Peyraguey recorded these high sugar concentration on the potential harvest that had not been botrytised yet. During my tastings of separate lots at estates, I have always preferred the style of those that did harvested late, that is to say after October 15th. The humidity brought by the rains of October 9th and 10th did relaunch the work of Botrytis. The hot and dry summertime weather which settled in from October 12th and 29th enabled evaporation and great concentration of sugars. These later picked lots do not show similar sugar taste than the ones harvested earlier. After October 15th, the wines offer a roasted nose, a silkier structure on the palate, with more fat and moreover, showing more complex in the finish. Depending on the harvesting dates and picked volumes, the blends therefore associate wines from diverse origins. Suduiraut indicates making a blend from 25% of passerillage (a sugar type induced without the effect of noble rot) and 75% of botrytised lots. Out of 45 harvested barrels, Nairac has two barrels harvested between September 10th and 13th, three barrels picked between September 25th and 27th, eight barrels harvested on October 9th, and a remaining thirty two barrels harvested between October 12th and 25th. The style of the 2007 sweet wines Right now, the slightly massive style of the vintage is reinforced by the yet imprecise aromatic definition on the nose. For instance, I have noticed many apple characteristics in the nose of those wines, not the fresh apple note, but rather the faded one, or otherwise some spicy flavors rather than the taste of fresh fruits. The latter lacked to me. I have asked specialists about these findings. Their interpretation of the existence of these aromas is of thinking that these samples are momentarily presented with low protection against oxygen (with a free content level of SO2). I wonder if that is the only reason? On the palate, naturally induced freshness by the limestone soil of Barsac appears to be better balancing the richness of residual sugars with its vividness. On gravely clayey soils of Sauternes, body appears thicker and less elegant, with a few happy exception. As for any rich wines, barrel ageing will be key in the precision of their definite final style. It may provide some vibrancy on the nose and some tension on the palate, which is generally lacking today, this, with exception for the best wines. BASTOR LA MONTAGNE Sauternes // 83 Yellow green color. Fruity and fresh on the nose, it smells of oven-roasted apple. Smooth, fruity and discreet on the palate, the wine is of average length. BROUSTET Barsac // 84 - 85 Fruity nose that smells of apples. Smooth on the palate, the wine is a tad mellow and roasted in the finish. Light palate with an average length. CAILLOU Barsac // 85 Pale yellow color. Fruity and spicy nose. Melting and fruity on the palate, with a discreet finish. Average length. CANTEGRIL Sauternes // 86 Golden yellow color. Nice fruity nose, smelling of candied fruits. Suave on entry, the wine offers exotic fruits taste, a body of good intensity with more finesse than usual. Good length finishing on a zest of citrus. CLOS HAUT PEYRAGUEY Sauternes // 92 Yellow-green and shinny color. Very concentrated, intense and spicy nose, more on pepper flavors than fruit. Of great smoothness from entry, the wine develops ample, with an ethereal touch on the palate. Everything melts in this subtle, rich, and very, very spicy wine. On the finish, some pepper characteristics return. While manly, this wine never appears rustic. Great length, both complex and ethereal. Another great success from Martine Langlois-Pauly. Bravo. Alcohol content: 13,8%-Residual sugar: 140 g/l -Total acidity: 4COUTET Barsac // 89 - 90 Sustained yellow color. The nose is of average intensity and rather marked by spices than fruit. Very nice melting smoothness on entry. The wine develops very, very fruity, aromatic with a fine and melting touch on the palate. The finish is of average length, rich in sugar, yet roasted and ethereal. D'ARCHE Sauternes // 86 Golden yellow color. Discreet nose, smelling pear, apple and fruits. Smooth, subtle and aromatic palate. The wine melts on the finish with a good persistence. D’YQUEM Sauternes // 95 - 96 Golden yellow color. Beautiful intense nose, fresh, pure and botrytised. It smells of peach, pineapple and spices. Very lovely on entry, the wine develops powerful and extremely melting. It then evolves dense with plenty of grace and stretches aromatic, ethereal and subtle. This is a wine of millimeter precision, not extravagant, rather classic that rebounds on the finish with a great sappy length. Alcohol content: 14% - Residual sugar: 130 g/l - PH : 3,8 - A.T.: 4 – Blend: 70 % sémillon, 30 % sauvignon.DE FARGUES Sauternes // 88 - 89 Sunny yellow color. Intense and fruity on the nose, smelling of citrus and botrytis. Smooth, silky, melting and botrytised on the palate. The wine appears tensed without stopping to melt. Spicy finish, with a taste of apples. Zest of bitterness. Ageing should refine it. DE MALLE Sauternes // 88 - 89 Yellow color. Nose of average intensity, appearing fine, fruity and pure. Melting on the palate, this is smooth, ethereal and suave. The wine evolves deliciously towards a tasty finish of good length. This is a wine showing both pleasure and lift while fashioned all in finesse. I note that this wine is progressing year after year DE MYRAT Barsac // 85 - 86 Sustained yellow color. Discreet and fruity nose. Smooth and melting palate, enjoyable and quite distinguished, finishing with an average length. DOISY DAENE liquoreux Barsac // 89 - 90 Golden yellow color. Fine, fruity and botrytised nose. Refined on entry, the wine develops melting, aromatic, fruity and spicy. It is even spicier than usual. Caressing body dubbed by a very ethereal sugar expression and a good length. A wine that is particularly enjoyable. DOISY VEDRINES Barsac // 88 - 89 Yellow green color. Fruity, fresh, ripe, spicy and botrytised nose. Mellow, very fruity and suave on the palate, the wine appears melting and rich of residual sugar. Barrel ageing may give it more tension. ESQUISSE DE CH. NAIRAC Barsac // 89 Yellow green color. Clear and very, very fresh nose, powerful and of lime smell. Round, juicy and ethereal palate marked by the lime flavor. The wine has more presence in the second part of the palate where it finishes both spicy and fresh with a beautiful length. A nice success of the vintage, especially for a second label. As Nicolas Heeter Tari likes to remind us, this is rather another wine than a second wine. EXTRAVAGANT de DOISY DAENE Barsac // 95 Yellow color. Fine, fruity, pure, fresh and very botrytised nose. The wine is melting on the palate and magical in its texture and flavors. Very complex, a tad exotic, it finishes dense, melting, and extremely long. This is absolutely impossible to spit out. Bravo! Blend : 45 % de sémillon, 55 % de sauvignon -Alcohol content12 % -Residual sugar: 205 g/l -Total acidity: 4,4 - PH : 3,9FILHOT Sauternes // 83 Yellow green color. Smoky nose, a bit heavy. The palate is marked by its sugar expression. Simple finish. GUIRAUD Sauternes // 92 Sustained yellow color. Fresh and fruity nose of average intensity of aromatics. For once, it is not the spiciest wine. Upon swirling, it appears complex and smoky. Beautiful on entry. The wine develops melting, very aromatic with flavors reminding of citrus zest and finely bitter characteristics. It remains fat until the end where it finishes rich, powerful and long, mixing expressions of botrytis and passerillage. A success of the vintage. HAURA liquoreux Cérons // 87 - 88 Yellow green color. Fresh nose with mint smell. Very fruity, it is also very, very fresh. The wine enters the palate in a refined expression, is caressing and distinguishes with great palatability. It is really impossible to spit out. Do not hesitate drinking it young. LA TOUR BLANCHE Sauternes // 89 Sustained yellow color. Fruity nose of average intensity, smelling of oak moss. Melting on the palate and appearing pulpy straight from entry. The wine is developing very fruity, tasty and aromatic. Very nice body. Complex and hot finish where the persistence offers a slightly roasted fruit expression. A success. LAFAURIE PEYRAGUEY Sauternes // 87 - 88 A wine of particular nose, smelling of ether and spices. Quite heavy on the palate, the wine shows a taste of apples with the fatness of Semillon. The residual sugar seems very high, yet aromatic vibrancy is lacking. LAMOTHE Sauternes // 85 Sustained yellow color. Animal and creamy nose. Smooth palate, appearing fruity and melting that finishes with an average length. LAMOTHE GUIGNARD Sauternes // 85 - 86 Yellow color. Discreet nose. Melting on the palate, this wine appears fruity, smooth, yet lacking presence in its finish. Average length. LIBER PATER liquoreux Graves // 90A discoveryLoïc Pasquet, recently settled at Landiras in the Graves appellation, is performing here his first vintage on two hectares. Trained as a chemist and passionate of grande cuisine, I would say that he made his wine, as he would have cooked a great dish. This cuvee is made from 100% Semillon, harvested very botrytised in two trips. One was picking between late October and early November, and the other was during late November. This wine was fermented in new oak barrels. Hats off for such a start! I will talk again about his work regarding his red wine. Contact : loic@liber-pater.com Yellow-green color. Lovely nose evoking botrytis presence. Fine, fruity with nuances of candied lemon. It shows quite some depth. Melting on entry, the wine is instantly propelled into the high end of sweet wines' production. Melting on the palate and absolutely impossible to spit out. Delicious finish with fruit and nuances of smoke. Absolutely delicious. A discovery and a great pleasure. Alcohol content: 13.23%. Residual sugar: 139g/l. Total acidity: 4.70.NAIRAC Barsac // 92 Yellow-green color. Extremely fresh, aromatic and spicy nose smelling of lime zest. Smooth on entry, this wine is mellow, aromatic and especially very, very fresh, developing dense and powerful in the second part of the palate. Very refined touch. Very, very beautiful, rich, roasted and melting length. A great success of the vintage. The 149 grams of residual sugar per liter cannot be felt! Alcohol content: 13,5 % - PH : 3,5 -Total acidity: 4,4 - Blend: 95 % sémillon, 8,8 % sauvignon, 2,5 % muscadelle.RABAUD PROMIS Sauternes // 90 Clear, yellow-green color. Aromatic, fine and fruity nose. It smells of oak moss, camphor and pear. This is a delicious wine on entry that begins on a pear flavor and evolves melting, ethereal, subtle and fat. Finish of good length where fruity characteristics of pear, peach and apricot return. Still gross in shape at this stage, yet already delicious. Nice wine, very well done, evoking botrytis. RAYMOND LAFON Sauternes // 90 Yellow color with a nose that lacks precision. Refined in its touch, the wine evolves suave and fine. Great length, vivid, aromatic and subtle. Ageing should refine its nose. Alcohol content13,5 % -Residual sugar: 135 g/l - PH : 3,88 -Total acidity: 3,95RAYNE VIGNEAU Sauternes // 87 - 88 Yellow-green color. Fresh, fruity, ripe and spicy nose of average intensity. Melting on the palate, straight from entry. The wine develops wide, quite packed on the palate, fat and finishing of average length with botrytis character. RIEUSSEC Sauternes // 87 - 88 Yellow green color. Fruity, ripe and spicy nose. Smooth and very fruity on entry, the wine develops quite fat and unctuous. The body flattens a bit in the finish. ROMER Sauternes // 84 Curious nose of petrol smell. Fruity and simple on the palate. ROMER DU HAYOT Sauternes // 83 Sustained yellow color. With average intensity of aromatics, the nose is fruity, spicy and truffled. Simple on the palate, the wine lacks precision and is of average length. SIGALAS RABAUD Sauternes // 87 Egg yolk color. Discreet nose appearing slightly oxidative. The wine shows roasted from entry. It evolves melting and enjoyable, yet lacks power in its persistence. Average length. SUAU Barsac // 84 Yellow color, discreet nose, slightly meaty. Smooth on the palate, with a fresh fruit expression. Simple finish with a lemon characteristic. SUDUIRAUT Sauternes // 91 Yellow color. Intense, fresh, fruity, spicy and botrytised nose. Very lovely and melting on entry, the wine develops fruity and precise in its touch, vivid and aromatic. It shows a dense and finely creamy body. A delicious and distinguished wine. To be continued! Next report on Monday, April 7th. Jean-Marc Quarin P.S. Those of you who didn't receive by email the previous reports can find and print them from the web site. Thank you. ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: All rights reserved. No part of this article may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the author: Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, 33320 Le Taillan-Médoc. France. Tél. 00 33 (0)5 56 35 83 93. Fax 00 33 (0)5 56 35 86 50. E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr

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Bordeaux Futures 2007: Results (Part 3)

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