Bordeaux Futures 2007: Results (Part 7)

Saint-Julien 2007Seventh report(April 14th, 2007)In this heterogeneous vintage, the Saint-Julien appellation is characterized by an unwavering consistency. Surprisingly, each property retains its own profile. Yet Léoville Las Cases’ cellar master Bruno Rolland, says he has never experienced such a stretch of harvest time (45 days) in the town between the various properties. The cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc both saw an increase of proportion in the blend, while the share of merlot decreased. This is the first time Ducru Beaucaillou reached 90% of cabernet sauvignon in the blend. From an aromatic side, Saint-Julien wines exceed in intensity those from the Margaux appellation that are usually more intense. On the palate they are well built, holding up well with a smooth character and -what may surprise- without stiffness. It is likely that with the slight acidification induced by barrel ageing, wines will regain some tension thus appearing a bit more "classic". As in many regions, and unless intensive use of concentrators, the wines are reverted to below 13% alcohol. This fact limits the appreciation of their power as futures. However, their digestibility will increase during service at the table. I have not been told in Saint-Julien of reducing the duration of barrel ageing in new oak, as it has been talked about at Latour and Haut-Brion. As elsewhere, high PH this year incites the greatest attention during barrel ageing. It is well known that a low-acid environment is conducive to the development of germs or yeasts. It is advisable that the wines are well sulfated and that the winter 2008 will be cold in order to limit any appearance of microbiological deviation, especially bretts. Never did the Bordeaux winemakers have been so aware and cautious of that. I think they will age their 2007 as supervising milk being heated on fire. Despite appearing insignificant, all these precautions could positively serve this vintage. Saint-Pierre and Gloria will be covered as part of a next report. Wines from this report are already available for search in the wine reviews database. Simply type " St Julien 2007 " in the search box to view those tasting notes and click on " Search" (or type “ 2007 ” to search through all 2007 futures from the appellations that has been covered so far). In addition, you can enjoy comparing the ratings of this vintage to previous ones, searching and sorting wines by vintages or estate names._____________________________________________BEYCHEVELLE Saint-Julien 86-87 Dark color, of good intensity. Fruity and fresh nose of average aromatic intensity. Rounded and fruity on the palate, the wine appears pleasant and of medium body. Fine tannins. Medium length. BRANAIRE Saint-Julien 89 - 90 Purple color. Fruity, fresh and rather aromatic nose. Smooth on the palate, developing very fruity, with a juicy body. The wine is built in the typical style of the estate (for more details, reread my chronicle #57 describing my vertical tasting of the last 13 vintages of the estate, published in March 2008). Elongated yet also chubby on the mid-palate, it finishes very aromatic with a distinguished weaving. Good length. A Beautiful work for the vintage. CLOS DU MARQUIS Saint-Julien 87 - 88 Purple color, very aromatic nose, very fresh, ripe and floral. Smooth on the palate, the wine appears mellow, and rounder than usual. After the mid-palate, the wine is not yet well defined. Barrel ageing will clear off this last part. A blend of 58,4 % cabernet sauvignon, 34,8 % merlot, 4,9 % cabernet franc, and 1,9 % petit verdot. Press wine represents 12 % of the blend. This wine is aged in 25 % new oak barrels.DU GLANA Saint-Julien 86 Black and purple color. Fruity, fresh nose on mulberry characteristics. Quite present from entry for the vintage, the wine develops powerful, juicy, tasty on tannins appearing a bit square which should become silkier during ageing. Normal length. DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU Saint-Julien 91 This year, the wine is made from a very large majority of cabernet sauvignon (90%) and 10% merlot. Lovely intense and shinny color. For now, the nose is rather discreet, yet upon swirling, it reveals depth, fruit, a smoky characteristic and once more some cherry aromas. Lovely on entry, the wine develops sliding on the palate, both juicy and silky. It evolves fruity, less pulpy than the 2005 of course, towards a long finish made of fine-grained tannins. The body is rather classic from its balance and its straight style on the palate that is induced by the strong presence of cabernet sauvignon. A success of the vintage. GRUAUD LAROSE Saint-Julien 88NewIn 2007, Eric Boissenot, consultant oenologist from the Medoc, came to advise the estate. The temperatures of fermentations were lower and macerations shorter than usual. New work has been performed in the selection of press wine and their barrel ageing. Thus, Gruau appears more distinguished than usual. Dark red color, of average intensity. Nose of average aromatic intensity. Caressing and very fruity on the palate, the wine develops with flavors of spices, fruits and pepper. The finish shows tannins that tighten a bit. Nevertheless, the grain of tannin remains fine. A blend of 71% cabernet sauvignon, 21% merlot, 2% cabernet franc, and 6 % petit verdot. Alcohol level is 12.95%. The selection represents 38% of the overall harvest.LA BRIDANNE Saint-Julien 84 - 85 Purple color. Aromatic nose, almost not entirely ripe. Fruity palate of medium body that appears rather tannic. Rustic characteristics in its persistence. LA CROIX DE BEAUCAILLOU Saint-Julien 88 This is the second label from the Médoc that has made the most progress since 2004. A blend of 95 % cabernet sauvignon and 5 % merlot. Intense purple color. The nose smells of good fruits, mostly cherry and vanilla. Delightful and silky on entry, the wine develops juicy, aromatic and very distinguished in its overall constitution. Velvety and smooth on the mid-palate, it finishes with good length. A success. LAGRANGE Saint-Julien 90Once again, the estate has produced very good wine. “We have been able to wait” says cellarmaster Monsieur Raymond. The color is dark, with a fruity, fresh and ripe nose. Caressing on entry, the wine develops very fruity, and rather ample for the vintage. Displaying power and energy. Beautiful tasty finish, melting with a taste of licorice. Freshness and density are exemplary for the vintage. The Grand Vin represents a selection of 38% of the harvest. A blend of 68% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, and 7% petit verdot. Alcohol: 13%. Total acidity: 3,35. pH: 3,77. IPT: 76 (which is high). Yields of 50 hl/ha.LALANDE BORIE Saint-Julien 85 - 86 A wine of average intensity and color. Fruity nose smelling of cherry. On the palate, the wine is enjoyable, due to its ripe fruit character. Tannins are coated. Average length. LALANDE Saint-Julien 85 - 86 Purple color, of average intensity. Discreet nose. Tannic palate evoking wines of an older style. Quite long on the finish, with fruit, tannins and taste. LANGOA BARTON Saint-Julien 88 - 89 Such a pleasurable wine! I tasted it twice with always the same level of satisfaction. Dark color. The nose is distinguished by its freshness and aromatic refinement. On the palate, the wine is caressing, showing rather pulpy and melting very gracefully, offering a mellow body, upscale aromas and fine tannins in the persistence. It finishes particularly delightful and impossible to spit out. In a context where density is sought in the taste of wine, Langoa Barton offers an alternate vision of what good taste is. Alcohol: 12.5%. A blend of 67,5% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot, and 7,5% cabernet franc. Total Acidity: 3,3.LEOVILLE BARTON Saint-Julien 90 If I had to award a gold medal for the best nose of this futures campaign, it would go to Léoville Barton. Twice, I found it distinguished, floral, with licorice, pure and very aromatic. The wine appears subtle on entry, offering a very delightful smoothness of texture. Evolving suave and caressing, it shows normal density. Power is slightly lacking, yet its charm is quite amazing. Alcohol: 12.5 % A blend of 70 % cabernet sauvignon, 27 % merlot, and 3 % petit verdot. Total acidity: 3.3LEOVILLE LAS CASES Saint-Julien 91 Lovely purple color. Aromatic nose, fine and profound. Very lovely on entry, appearing fat and woven, the wine develops with a complex taste. From the mid-palate, its power fades a bit. Very coated tannins finishing with a normal length. Here again, it seems that the finish will benefit from barrel ageing to gain precision. A blend of 82 % de cabernet sauvignon, 8 % merlot, and 10 % cabernet franc. Press wine represents 6.6% of the blend. 13,27% of alcohol content. PH 3,64. Total acidity 3,29. IPT 66. This wine is aged in 65% new oak barrels.LÉOVILLE POYFERRÉ Saint-Julien 90 Dark red and intense color. Fruity, fine and ripe nose, smelling of cherry. Very pure character. Beautiful on entry, juicy and rather ample, the wine develops fruity, juicy and tasty. It has nice body and fatness for the vintage. Finely sappy, it finishes long and tasty. Very well done and especially very good. Alcohol: 13%, IPT: 67. pH: 3,90. total acidity: 3.2, which is a bit lower than usual. The Grand Vin represents a selection of 53% of the harvest, compared to 55% in 2004 and 75% in 2003. The wine contains a blend of 10% of press wine.LES FIEFS DE LAGRANGE Saint-Julien 85 - 86 Dark and intense color. Fruity nose, both vivid and ripe at the same time. Very enjoyable on the palate, the wine has a very fruity taste and a pulpy body. Smooth and delightful. Average length. MOULIN DE LA ROSE Saint-Julien 86 Purple and intense color. Fruity and fresh nose, aromatic and fine. Round on entry, the wine develops juicy, tasty and quite full for the vintage. Tannic and coated finish. Good length. MOULIN RICHE Saint-Julien 85 - 86 Vivid color, a bit discreet on the nose, which will have to be smoothed during barrel ageing. On the other hand, the palate already offers this fruit suavity. Finish without any tannic rusticity. Average length. The wine has more merlot in the blend of this vintage. Blend of 53% de cabernet sauvignon, 44% merlot and 3% petit verdot.SARGET DE GRUAUD LAROSE Saint-Julien 85 - 86 Good color intensity with a fruity yet fuzzy nose. The palate offers tactile smoothness and a fruity character to be smoothed during barrel ageing. A very uniform second label. TALBOT Saint-Julien 86 Dark color, of average intensity. Fruity nose of ripe type, wine shows smoothness on the palate more evoking merlot than cabernet sauvignon. Medium length. Will be delicious while young. TEYNAC Saint-Julien 85 - 86 Purple color, rather intense for the vintage. Fruity, ripe and creamy nose. Smooth, very fruity, tasty on the palate with a medium body. Coated tannins. Average length. To be continued! Next report on Wednesday, April 16th. Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: All rights reserved. No part of this article may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the author: Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, 33320 Le Taillan-Médoc. France. Tél. 00 33 (0)5 56 35 83 93. Fax 00 33 (0)5 56 35 86 50. E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr

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Bordeaux Futures 2007: Results (Part 7)

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