Bordeaux Futures 2007: Results (Part 8)

Margaux 2007 Eighth report (April 16th, 2008) 2007 is a small vintage for the Margaux appellation, however, with some very good wines. I have never seen so much disparity between properties. Most unclassified growths are disappointing. Classified growths have fared game at the expense of a lot of work. I did not expect the greenness of Du Tertre and that, admittedly lesser, Giscours : two estates, however which have been rising sharply in recent years. Stringent selection was necessary to keep the style of the estates (27 % of the harvest went into the Grand Vin of Brane Cantenac and 30 % at Château Margaux ). In 2007, clay soils (see D'Issan ), and the limestone ones seem to have performed better than the dry gravel soils that are more prevalent in Margaux than on the other major village appellations. This may explain that. In terms of news, keep in mind the arrival of Philippe de La Garrigue (formerly with Montrose) to manage Marquis d'Alesme Becker and Philippe Delfaut (formerly with Palmer) at Kirwan . These men will probably move these wines. Finally and for the second consecutive year, Jose Sanfins at Cantenac Brown, has made one of the most dense wines of the appellation. ______________________________________________________________ ALTER EGO de PALMER Margaux // 87 - 88 Purple and intense color. Fruity nose of a ripe, suave and fine type. Smooth on the palate, it is made of a precise flesh, developing aromatic, distinguished and refined on the finish. This is a delicious wine that cannot be spit out. It will provide great pleasure in its youth. A blend of 60% merlot and 40% cabernet sauvignon. The alcohol content is 12.4%. pH 3,85.BELLEVUE DE TAYAC Margaux // 86 Purple color of good intensity. Fruity, creamy and pure nose. Smooth and pleasant on the palate. The wine melts on the palate, appearing aromatic, juicy, without having a large body, yet quite elegant. BRANE CANTENAC Margaux // 89The estate was able to maintain a very good quality at the expense of a very stringent selection effort. The Grand Vin represents only 27 % of the harvest. Dark red color. Fruity and fresh nose, with aromatic subtleness. Distinguished by its width on entry, the wine develops fruity with a rather magical touch on the palate. Melting and showing fine tannins on the finish. This is a wine distinguished for the quality of its aromas, yet it is also decently structured. This is very hard to spit out. Close to a burgundy style. BRIO DE CANTENAC BROWN Margaux // 87 Purple color, fruity nose of fresh and ripe type, smelling cherry. Delicious, pulpy, tasty and aromatic with quite some flesh for a second label. A nice success. CANTENAC BROWN Margaux // 90 Purple color. Discreet nose with a very pure quality of fruit. Ample, the wine appears beautiful on entry. The wine develops pulpy and tasty with a rich and melting body. Evolving slowly, juicy, with noble and coated tannins. Very well built, it finishes with a nice length. Its quality is in the new line opened by the 2006. A spectacular work for the vintage. CLOS MARGALAINE Margaux // 85 - 86 Black, purple color. Very fruity, pure and floral nose. Enjoyable on the palate due to its lovely touch. The wine evolves quite fruity, yet also tannic and slightly firm. Medium length. D'ANGLUDET Margaux // 86 - 87 Purple red color. Fruity and discreet nose. Caressing on entry, the wine develops silky and rounded on the palate. For now, the finish is not précise. Barrel ageing should help refining it. Medium length. D'ISSAN Margaux // 88 Dark red and intense color. Fruity nose of average aromatic intensity. Suave on entry, the wine develops smooth with taste and a lovely sense of caressing the palate. Despite not having a powerful body, it shows no weakness whatsoever. With fine-grained tannins, this estate shows consistency in its expression. This is Chateau d'Issan! A blend of 63 % cabernet sauvignon and 37 % merlot - Alcohol 13,9% - pH: 3,84 - Total acidity: 3,7 - IPT: 62. blending only happened less than a month ago, therefore I think that the nose of this wine will improve during barrel ageing. DAUZAC Margaux // 86 Very lovely dark red color, purple. Fruity and medium aromatic nose. Flowing on the palate, the wine is enjoyable but not powerful. Average length. DESMIRAIL Margaux // 82 Very bitter on the palate, this wine does not offer the usual distinct aromatic class of the estate. To be followed during barrel ageing. DEYREM VALENTIN Margaux // 85 - 86 Purple color of good intensity. Aromatic and fruity nose. Fruity palate of average size, developing with coated tannins. Finish of medium length. DU TERTRE Margaux // 82 I tasted this wine three times. Every single time, a smell and taste of green pepper dominated the wine. This undesirable odor is caused by methoxypyrazines. Fortunately, its tannins are finely extracted and the wine is not hard, yet I fear for its future evolution because methoxypyrazines are a class of chemical compounds particularly stable in a wine. Will barrel ageing give a chance to this wine. During my visit, Mr Van Beeck mentioned that the final blend was made up to 75%. To be followed.DURFORT VIVENS Margaux // 87 - 88 Purple color, fruity, pure and fresh nose. Very lovely on entry, the wine is caressing, then developing delicately pulpy. From the mid-palate, it takes on a cabernet sauvignon dimension and appears more vivid. Barrel ageing should smooth its body. Good length. FERRIÈRE Margaux // 87 - 88 Lovely dark color. Fruity and discreet nose. Smooth palate. Very fruity and enjoyable, this wine offers roundness with taste and a woven finish. Well done. GISCOURS Margaux // 85 Lovely purple and dark color. Fruity and fresh nose, yet also a tad vegetal. Appearing well built on the palate with a precise pulp, its tannin shows a fine grain on the finish. Yet, it lacks ripeness of its fruit in the persistence. I am not sure whether barrel ageing will be able to change that. To be followed. HAUT BRETON LARIGAUDIÈRE Margaux // 85 Purple color of average intensity. Discreet and fruity nose. The palate is smooth in texture and with a light body. Nicely coated tannins. Average length. HAUT BRETON LARIGAUDIÈRE Le Créateur Margaux // 85 - 86 Purple color of average intensity. Discreet and fruity nose. Fruity and aromatic, of medium body, the palate offers coated tannins. Good length with persistent aromas. KIRWAN Margaux // 88First vintage of Philippe Delfaut who has been appointed technical manager at Kirwan after spending many years at Palmer. I have to say that I couldn't wait to know the result of his wor, given how different these two estates are in style. Lovely dark red color. Fruity, fresh and floral nose. Silky on entry, the wine develops ample, juicy and tasty with nice body and apparent yet remaining coated tannins. On the finish, the wine offers more power than others for the vintage. Good length. A success. My impression is that through this presentation, the extracted style of Kirwan now seems to belong to the past.LA BESSANE Margaux // 83 - 84 Nice color, average aromatic intensity, with a bit of rustic tannins for a Margaux. Average length. LA TOUR DE MONS Margaux // 85 - 86 Good color intensity, even rather very colored for the vintage. Fruity yet discreet nose. Smooth, and quite pulpy on the palate, and for once, without any tannic stiffness. Average length. LABEGORCE Margaux // 84 - 85 Color of average intensity. Discreet, fruity and aromatic nose. Fruity on the palate with a medium body. Overall quite flowing and a bit easy. LABEGORCE ZEDE Margaux // 84 - 85 Purple color. Fruity and discreet nose. Fruity and of average body, rather flowing. Average length. LASCOMBES Margaux // 88 - 89 Very lovely dark color. Fine, fruity and floral nose. Smooth on entry, then becoming juicy, the wine develops with a nice refined touch. Tasty, with plenty of fruit and juicy flavors. Coated tannins. Very good length. For now, the wine appears quite woody, yet this will melt. Very modern character. A success of the vintage. MALESCOT SAINT EXUPÉRY Margaux // 87 - 88 Dark color. Nose of average intensity. Smooth and aromatic, the wine appears fruity in the mid-palate and with a medium body. Evolving well on finish, tasty and of normal length. Pleasurable while not powerful. MARGAUX Margaux // 92 - 93This year, the blend is composed of 87% cabernet sauvignon, 11% merlot and 2% cabernet franc. The percentage of merlot is higher than in 2006, which only had 4%. There will not be any petit verdot this year in Château Margaux, as tannins are considered too apparent and a bit raw. The big news relates to the very severe selection of 32% of harvest used to obtain such level of quality in the wine. The color is dark. The nose is a bit discreet right now, yet fruity. On the palate, the pulp of Chateau Margaux is there. The wine evolves caressing, silky, distinguished and melting. But above all, it presents its so particular taste made of ripe red fruits, and freshness. The second part of the palate is mellow and melting, with a lovely return of flavours in the finish and a sophisticated grain of tannin. As opposed to some other first growths, and for now, it is not been considered to shorten barrel ageing of the 2007 nor reducing the proportion (100%) of new wood barrels in which is aged the grand vin. Those who will be lucky tasting it, will notice how much it does support wood contact and exchange: This is a rather positive sign of the wine's density.MAROJALLIA Margaux // 87 Black color. Very fruity and creamy nose, a bit peppery and spicy. Very caressing on entry, the wine develops aromatic, rather fat, juicy and melting at the same time. Long finish, fruity with a licorice aroma. For now, there is a lot of wood, yet this wine seems to be a success in my opinion. (Initially rated 88-89) Nevertheless, my last tasting of the 2006 performed this month confirmed that during barrel ageing, this wine becomes too woody. This is a problem. Thus my rating is lowered to 87-88.MARQUIS D'ALESME BECKER Margaux // 87NewThis is the first vintage of Philippe de la Garrigue who had previously delighted us with Montrose between 2000 and 2005. He is now also in charge of Labegorce and Labegorce Zede. Good, dark and purple color. Aromatic, pure and fresh nose. Suave on entry, the wine develops finely chubby, aromatic and with a distinguished tannin. Most surprising is this new aromatic precision that can be noticed straight from the nose. Good and fresh length, with floral, fruity and licorice characteristics. MARQUIS DE TERME Margaux // 85 - 86 The color is purple with a rather discreet nose. The wine appears fruity, with a pulpy and rounded body. For now, the second part of the palate remains a bit blurred. Barrel ageing will reveal more. MONBRISON Margaux // 84 Dark color of medium intensity. Fruity nose, yet a bit vegetal. The palate does not show its usual perfume. Barrel ageing should reveal more. PALMER Margaux // 90A blend of 49% merlot, 34% cabernet sauvignon and 7 % petit verdot. 12.5% of alcohol content. Ph 3.85. The wine contains a blend of 12% of press wine. Dark color. Nose of average aromatic intensity, appearing fine, fruity and of very ripe type. Superb and finely pulpy on entry, the wine develops very fruity, melting and aromatic, with a quite vivid character and a finish made of well-coated tannins. Great tasty finish with a grain of fine and ripe tannins. It is very good despite not being powerful. Beautiful neat work. PAVILLON ROUGE Margaux // 88 - 89A Blend of 58% cabernet, 37% merlot and 5% of petit verdot. Pavillon Rouge represents a selection of 48% of the harvest. Dark color. The nose is fruity, rather ripe and floral. Structured, silky and juicy on the palate, the wine appears finely pulpy and once again, very finely chubby. After the mid-palate, the wine melts, smooth, ascending and aromatic, finishing rather distinguished and very enjoyable. PRIEURE LICHINE Margaux // 87 - 88 Lovely dark color. Fruity nose of ripe type. Pulpy and fruity on entry. The wine offers a smooth body of ripe fruit taste. This is good. Medium length in the finish. Well done overall and rather enjoyable. RAUZAN GASSIES Margaux // 84 Dark color of good intensity. Fruity nose appearing to me riper than usual. Nevertheless, upon swirling, there are traces of greenness. Smooth on entry, discreet in the mid-palate, the wine finishes with somewhat spiky tannins. Medium length. Barrel ageing should reveal more. RAUZAN SEGLA Margaux // 88 - 89 Dark red color. Nose of average intensity, fruity and slightly peppery. It is also floral and smells of cherry. Smooth and very fruity on entry, the wine develops with a caressing touch, always smooth, with an enjoyable pulp. Average length. The wine finishes on liquorice and plum characteristics. This will be easily enjoyed in its youth. 13% of alcohol content. 5% of the harvest went through osmosis. pH 3,88. AT 3. A blend of 59% cabernet sauvignon and 41% merlot. 14% of press wine was added to the blend which is not more than usual. Yield of 43 hl/ha. The Grand Vin represents 55% of harvest.SIRAN Margaux // 86 Purple color of good intensity. Fruity nose of average aromatic intensity. Enjoyable, fruity and tasty on the palate, the wine shows a smooth body. On the finish, it appears aromatic, tasty and without harshness. This wine is well done, especially considering this complex vintage. To be continued! Next report on Friday, April 18th. Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: All rights reserved. No part of this article may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the author: Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, 33320 Le Taillan-Médoc. France. Tél. 00 33 (0)5 56 35 83 93. Fax 00 33 (0)5 56 35 86 50. E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr

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Bordeaux Futures 2007: Results (Part 8)

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