Chronicle 65: Bordeaux 2008 vintage before harvest - La Régalona and Fontareche: a discovery in Corbières

Bordeaux 2008 before harvest La Régalona and Fontareche, a discovery in Corbières Chronicle n° 65 (September, 15th 2008) What’s new -My interview published last December in Wine and Business Club magazine is now available in the What's New section of the website. -It is with a lot of sadness that I learned today that Anthony Perrin, owner of château Carbonnieux in Pessac Léognan passed away. Mr. Perrin was at the source of the rebirth of dry white wines at Carbonnieux. During the early 90's, Mr Perrin was the one who kindly opened the door of his estate to host my tasting events. In this difficult day, all my thoughts goes to his wife and children. ___________________ Bordeaux 2008 vintage before harvest. My audio interview of Jean Noël Hervé from Château Moulin Haut Laroque in Fronsac regarding 2008 recorded a week ago is now available on the homepage of the website. (Audio replay in French with English transcription below). The next interview on the birth of the 2008 vintage in Bordeaux will happen at the end of this week I spoke with Jean-Noël Hervé, to-date, the situation has not worsen since September 3rd. To get a full picture, a third interview of the same person will be published in the next few weeks. " Jean-Marc Quarin : This is the point of view of Jean-Noël HERVÉ, owner of château Moulin Haut Laroque regarding the forecast of the 2008 vintage in Bordeaux, as of September 3rd. Jean-Noël HERVÉ : Right now, as of September 3rd, we are facing the situation of ripeness of around August 18-19th at least, which is that grapes that are extremely well made have a delay in ripeness due to the incident during the flowering period. That is a small delay. We had awful weather during that period. Due to the late harvesting conditions of our terroir, we were lucky to get neither coulure nor millerandage. It remains a great luck, but of course we are still quite worried because we know that in order to get to complete ripeness. – based on current conditions which of course can and will be very much impacted by 1,000 events by then- we are heading towards a harvest between October 10th and October 17th for merlot, which is absolutely extreme! Nevertheless, we are working hard in the vineyards to bring proper ventilation and enable sunlight to get into the grape bunch by using the little bit of light that is available today (not much unfortunately). We are constantly cleaning the bunches. We keep going into the rows of vines, spending enormous amount of time in order to put the grapes in good conditions so that they can dry and keep ripening as much as possible. In fact my objective is the lengthening of the ripening cycle as much as possible because we haven’t been successful to bring quickly complete ripeness to the grapes. This is obvious and worrying. JMQ: So overall, what is lacking is heat during the month of august, is that what you are saying? JNH: Yes of course. It is this heat during the month of August that we have been missing. Last year already we got frustrated for that very same reason. The moral was catastrophic last year, we all thought that the crop would be lost and we said “unless, unless we would be having an incredibly fabulous weather during the month of September and early October, an Indian summer as it happens sometimes, which would make us revise our position”. Well, we got lucky last year. Now, can we ask and wish for getting another one of these late September and early October heat wave? That is quite unlikely, but not impossible. Therefore, we will have to stick to this potential, as worried as we are. Nevertheless, some very positive things remain. The fact that leaves are very green. Now, of course, this is also something that can be taken opposite. When the vine is still growing in some cases, it means that it is not taking much care of its grapes. That is also our role. It is indeed a very complex job; trying to have the vine stopping to take care of its leaves and rather focusing on taking care of its grapes. This is naturally what happens with a water stress such as in 2003 and in fact, this is currently not the case, given the high level of humidity that we are experiencing. So in short, the lack of heat is one issue, but a lot of constant humidity is another. JMQ : In the event that this vintage would become very complex to be successful, overall, the lack of wines available on the market would raise the price of some other vintages ? JNH : Yes, but well, it is a little bit like saying « wow, how lucky am I, I just got one arm cut during a crash, but I am going to have another one become much stronger because I will do everything with that one”. It is a bit masochist. Of course, there is always the economic side of things that will balance, but I would not wish for such situation. One needs to think that as a producer it is certainly one thing to consider, yet for consumers, it is another. Consumers suffered from very expensive prices for the 2005 vintage. They are slowly coming down to the idea that great wines can be found outside of extremely high priced wines, and all of a sudden the market may be shaken not from the demand side, but rather from the lack of offering. And that is never a very positive situation. Certainly I would not enjoy seeing the disappearance of a vintage as a whole that would enable other vintages to sell too easily or at whatever price it may do. Yet, this is something that we do not really control and I don’t like to much that idea. And yet, that risk exists and this may well happen. Already we can feel that negociants are much more questioning us about our stock, our wines available, and whatever may still be available ready for delivery…Therefore, yes, there is a consciousness on international negociants to pay attention to all of that as Bordeaux stock have been very much reduced by consumption; which is a good thing. But in this case, it is obvious that it is going become an issue. JMQ: So, waiting it the key? That is our main issue. I hate doing that. I am rather an activist., I like intervention, I like to be in charge. I enjoy being the one responsible for the result, eventhough I make mistakes sometimes. At least I did something. Rather than being passive, and dependant, which I consider horrible. But we have to deal with it. This reminds me of a memory, although a bit different. It was 1987 at Moulin Haut Laroque, I was much younger than today and was in front of superb grapes like today, yet we were not at full ripeness yet. Therefore, I decided to wait. And a rare thing happened: it rained so much that the soil became soaking wet, and the grapes became so diluted, that indeed when I harvested after everyone else, I couldn’t put that wine with the label of Moulin Haut Laroque. As a result I did not produce Moulin Haut Laroque in 1987 and made a generic AOC Fronsac wine, but no Moulin Haut Laroque of that vintage. During my career, this is the only vintage where I haven’t produced the first label of the estate. So as you can imagine, I am very worried about the idea of experiencing that again. But frankly, today we have tools, ways of thinking and ways of working that enable us to prevent such an extreme situation. At least I hope so. But, to respect the consumer, if the quality is not right, it will not be labeled Moulin Haut Laroque. And if I produce Moulin Haut Laroque, then it means that the quality is up to the expected standard. JMQ : Thank you very much." -End of the interview - ___________________ One Day in Cabardès and Corbières This past June 22nd and 23rd, I went on a trip from Bordeaux to Carcassonne with a short stop in Lezignan-Corbières. It was a refreshing trip. Once leaving Aquitaine humid conditions and green landscapes, we come closer to the Mediterranean Sea and its dryer and dustier lands at the first wind. This corner of France has changed. The British –once again- and their low cost airlines to Carcassonne are responsible for those changes. This area is now open. In Villemoustaussou, once an unknown small-town, now part of the suburbs, I met with a French-American couple that produces some deserving wines at Domaine O’Vineyards. Ryan O’Connel is crazy about wine and is worth the visit. I am not sure French people sold him the best lands…that makes his work even more deserving. He treats his grapes with respect and plenty of cleanness. His attention to detail can be found surprising in a region where nobody would have ever thought paying more than 1.5 euros for a bottle of wine. Yet, these are the same people who decide which piece of land is to be labeled as a “vin de pays” and which other as “AOC”…There is no great wine without great barrels. M. O’Connel knows it and takes great profit from it. I did not take any notes. I was in the area for something else. You should stop by to taste the delicious 2006. Contact - Phone: +33 (0)4 68 71 31 58 - email : liz@ovineyards.com ___________________ LA REGALONA Back in November 2006, I gave La Regalona a heart's delight. Below is an update on the evolution of this property. Refer to my presentation of the estate previously published in chronicle n°31. (More information avail Arnaud Escourrou received me during the afternoon at Ventenac Cabardès. After a tour of the vineyards, we went back tasting the entire range of vintages. One more time, I have been surprised by the depth of this wine, while the means to make it remain very simple. There is no complex whatsoever; wine is made in the vineyards. 2007……………………………………………. 15,25 – 16,5 // 89 - 90 The wine is already blended. Based on the tasting from multiple barrels, ratings range from 15,25 // 86 to 16,5 // 90. The amount of cabernet sauvignon has been reduced to 30%. The general style could be more Southern than Northern. At the moment, results from barrel makers Darnajou and Sylvain rank higher than Boutes. 2006……………………………………………. 15,75 // 88 This wine will be bottled in early 2009. It shows very colored, with a lovely nose of truffles. Juicy, tasty and fat sensations intermix on the palate, with more austere and slightly woody characteristics. Despite its 15.2° of alcohol content, it remains very sappy. 2005……………………………………………. 15,25 // 86 This vintage was marked by strong rains. 150mm of rain fallen early September have lowered its potential. The body remains average, yet the tannin shows no rusticity whatsoever. The wine finishes on a very good taste of fruit. It will benefit from being enjoyable young. 2004……………………………………………. 16,25 – 16,5 // 87 - 90 The wine is slowly recovering from its bottling performed in November 2007. Very powerful on the palate, it appears very full and fruity, of licorice and cocoa taste. The wine finishes still slightly woody. It is very good. Nevertheless, I feel that this winemaking could be even more precise. Wait until 2012 and before 2025. 2003……………………………………………. 16,5 // 90 I have tasted this wine three times since last December with various fortune. It always appear better once decanted. One bottle taken from my cellar and tasted the day before my visit did not show at its best: its tannin ending rustic on the finish. The next day at the estate, this wine showed, as it should: creamy, powerful, chubby and tasty, with licorice and violet flavors. The finish is made of present tannins and flesh. Wait until 2010. Facing these bottle variations, Arnaud Escourou explained that he changed cork provider between the early 2001 and 2002, and the more recent 2003 and 2004. 2002……………………………………………. 16,5 // 90 This vintage was difficult, due to rain and the risk of gray rot. Nevertheless, this vintage remains one of my favorites of this property. Decanting embellishes it. Last June in Bordeaux, it ranked at the same level than Haut-Marbuzet and Lafon Rochet 2003. Its nose starts to change into an ageing bouquet. It has the smoky characteristic of cabernet sauvignon. A dense and silky palate, where the wine evolves with good body and energy, with plenty of complex taste of truffles and licorice, is followed by great length. Its style is rather Atlantic than Mediterranean. 2001……………………………………………. 15,25 // 87 The color is still dark, and the nose slightly sharp. The palate has two periods, round, juicy and tasty at first, and then slightly more dry on finish. I would advise drinking it before 2015. La Régalona - 06, Avenue de La Viale, 11610, Ventenac-Cabardès (France) - Ph: +33(0)4 68 24 92 30 - email: contact@laregalona.fr - www.regalona.fr ___________________ A DISCOVERY : CHATEAU FONTARECHE IN LEZIGNAN-CORBIERES It has been a while since I wanted to pay a visit to Arnaud de Lamy in Lezignan-Corbières. You may not know or recall the name, yet many of you love the wines that Arnaud de Lamy has made in Bordeaux; that is La Conseillante 2001, 2002 and 2003. In 2004, he was called by his father to the bedside of the large and declining family’s estate. Since then, the property has regained its financial stability and is delighting numerous customers, especially in Belgium. I made a last minute call for my visit, in the morning for a late afternoon stopover. Here is what I discovered. Nothing spectacular in visiting the cellars. They are built against a real chateau where history can be smelled. Everything happens in the glass and within this man’s vision of quality and about his work. I tasted two white wines and four red wines without taking notes. I have just retasted all these wines, back in Bordeaux. I prefer doing it this way in order to prevent any overexcitement due to the charm of the place or the hosts. The tasting began with a CHARDONNAY, vin de pays 2007............................... 14 // 84 Based on the purity of its nose, I only need a few seconds to understand what I might find in the following flight. The wine is fruity, tender; a bit light, but tasty. Twelve hours later, it kept its qualities and even picked up a mineral touch in its persistence. In short, this wine can be kept a few months with no risk of declining. Direct price to consumers: 4,40 euros VAT included. Half the price for professionals. An equivalent in Bordeaux could be château Turcaud in Entre-deux mers. Except that there are is residual sugar here. Winemaking of white wines is a school of purity and precision. One who knows the value of these sensations cannot produce ordinary red wines…But lets see the second white first. CHATEAU FONTARECHE blanc 2007, Corbières................................. 15 // 86 This is made from old vines and a blend of roussanne, bourboulenc, maccabeu, and grenache blanc varietals. The color is pale, the nose is fresh, and again pure. Quite dense on the palate, mellow, offering taste and an exemplary quality of touch. Orange characteristics. Finely bitter touch in its persistence. Twelve hours later, the wine has taken on complexity on the mid-palate. It keeps all its aromatic qualities and finishes fresh and impossible not to swallow. It escapes from all the prejudices of the Southern heaviness! In addition to the required purity of the fruit, this wine brings quality of touch and balance as a safe bet of good taste. Direct Price: 5.70 euros VAT included for consumers. Half the price for professionals. DOMAINE FONTARECHE SYRAH 2007, vin de pays………………….. 14,75 // 85-86 Dark red purple color. The nose confirms the approach taken by the winemaker through the consistency of aromatic purity of its fruit. A touch of cocoa. Melting and silky on the palate, the wine finishes slightly spicy. A wine of pleasure that is very enjoyable. In addition to the tasting values mentioned above, this wine introduces the idea of a weaving. This notion of texture, common to the great wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy seems to be rare in the South to my opinion. I have to admit that I was waiting to discover the next wines in order to confirm or deny what I was feeling. Direct price to consumers: 4,40 euros VAT included. Half the price for professionals. CHATEAU FONTARECHE VIEILLES VIGNES 2006, Corbières…………………….. 15 // 86 Displaying a lovely color and a more discreet nose than the 100 % Syrah, it is nevertheless very pure. Mellow on entry, the wine then offers density and more over plenty of aromas on the second half of the palate. Yes, it becomes woven on finish, ending up with distinguished tannins, and flavors of licorice and violet. Twelve hours later, the wine is still standing. At that time comes to mind the idea that it is thought /designed and built. The weaving, a vector of prolongation of sensation on finish appears as desired. In 1999 and 2000, I did taste a lot of wines from Corbières. With exceptions to few wines from the great 1998 vintage, weaving was often lacking to this region. By introducing weaving in his wines, Arnaud de Lamy blurs tracks. It propels its bottles to the universe of great wines, where at the same age, body qualities, those of touch and texture are the one that differentiates them from the other wines. Direct price to consumers: 5,70 euros VAT included. Half the price for professionals. CHATEAU FONTARECHE 2006 cuvée 1682, Corbières…………………………… 15,75 // 88 Production: 6 600 bottles. A blend of 55 % mourvèdre and 45 % syrah, grenache and carignan. Aged: 50 % in barrels and 50 % in vat. This wine is the keystone of the building. All the qualities are concentrated in it: its aromatic purity (licorice, violet and fruit), its density on entry, the smoothness of its touch, the precision of its balance -which make the wine juicy and sappy, and finally its finish with a fine weaving coupled with persistent and quite complex aromas. Twelve hours later, the wine kept its qualities. Its second life, between the mid palate and finish appear even more visible. Delicious, tasty, it plays in the arena of great Bordeaux without having neither the grapes nor the climatology. Then, what makes them so close? Answer from Arnaud de Lamy: “ This wine is the expression of a cold terroir, planted with late ripening grapes, but located in a hot climatology ”. Direct price to consumers: 16 euros vat included. Half the price for professionals. Another detail: There is such sophistication in the design of the labels and shape of the bottles. This should please distributors. You can witness it on the winery’s website at www.fontareche.fr Contact : SCEA Château de Fontarèche - 11200 Lézignan-Corbières - Ph : +33 (0)4 68 27 10 01 - Fax : +33 (0)4 68 27 48 15 - email: domaine.de.lamy@wanadoo.fr ___________________ RESTAURANT In case you pass near Carcassonne, book a table for lunch or dinner at Frank Putelat’s restaurant “Le Parc”. The place and its terrace are enjoyable; the dishes are local, with freshness and inventiveness. The next chronicle will be published on Wednesday, October 1st. Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: All rights reserved. No part of this article may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the author: Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, 33320 Le Taillan-Médoc. France. Tél. +33 (0)5 56 35 83 93. Fax +33 (0)5 56 35 86 50. E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr

2008 Chronicles

Chronicle 65: Bordeaux 2008 vintage before harvest - La Régalona and Fontareche: a discovery in Corbières

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