Chronicle n° 68. The rebirth of château Le Crock, Saint Estèphe (1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005)

The 2008 vintage and the financial crisis The rebirth of château Le Crock, Saint Estèphe (1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005) Chronicle n° 68 (November, 3rd 2008) WHAT’S NEW Last minute Although I fell from my roof two weeks ago and broke my ankle, I maintained a week-long tour of Bordeaux top estates last week for a group of wine amateurs and have tasted some vats of 2008 on both left and right bank before going through surgery on Friday. I will provide some feedback on these tastings in a next chronicle. 2009 wine tasting training programs The dates and content of the 2009 wine tasting training programs have been released. Registrations are now open for 12 people only per session. Click here for details of these programs. Supermarket Wine fares Overall, supermarket wine fares of September and October 2008 in France were not successful to reach sales expectations. For what it is worth, my name and ratings were in print on 1 million catalogs of E. Leclerc. In this context, I am glad to witness that the Leclerc supermarket from Saint-Médard en Jalles –from which I mentioned their innovative approach using an in-store wine review database coupled with a price comparison tool– announced results far superior to last year’s. I am open to similar opportunities with foreign retailers. __________________________________________ THE 2008 VINTAGE AND THE FINANCIAL CRISIS While the stock market crisis is all over the news, the great growths of Bordeaux have moved forward in their harvest with an unexpected optimism: Merlots are showing average alcohol content of 13 or even higher and the intensity of colors are surprising. As for Cabernet sauvignon, the continued good weather from Friday October 3rd throughout Sunday October 26th (with exception made to uneven spread out rains on October 7th and October 21st) has been favoring a necessary but slow ripening. On Friday October 10th, the best cabernet sauvignon of Château Margaux had finally gained in refining. The final result has yet to appear. Yet and with regards to the rather tricky weather conditions of the summer, the records of the performed analysis are favorably surprising. I have never seen the Bordelais taking so much time to wait and look for optimal ripeness. Bruno Eynard, director of Château Lagrange was telling me that three to four years ago the harvest date would have been at least a week earlier. At Domaine de Chevalier, Olivier Bernard started harvesting most of his cabernet sauvignon from October 20th. While technically sugar can be added, acidity be lowered or juice be concentrated, nothing replaces the ripeness of the grape’s skins and therefore tannin’s. Harvesting too early induces either harsh tannins, or a too light body to avoid such harshness. Reverse osmosis machines and concentrators, which had been prepared before harvest, were generally not used. By discovering almost unsuspected high levels of alcohol content during the tasting of the grapes, those machines went back to storage. Harvest always represents a very special moment, a birth. I think that 2008 adds something else: a more confident consciousness of using the right process to fasten a long-lasting qualitative path. Waiting a few more days provides gaining fatness and more pleasure to the consumer. Midway through the harvests, it seems much more likely that 2008 will be better than 2007. Paradoxically, with the current crisis, it will surely be cheaper. In Bordeaux as much as abroad, nobody can imagine paying a 2008 first growth over 100 euros, which is half the price of 2007. Rightfully, some people are wondering whether the châteaux might not benefit from keeping these wines, postponing selling futures in order no to break the market. This situation is beneficial to true amateurs, those who buy wines to drink them, eventhough they are glad to know that the price of the wine they own is going up. In fact, the most avid properties are working without even knowing what price they will be selling their future wine for. As for speculators, this is a more difficult time. It has been over a month now that business between châteaux and Bordeaux negociants is very calm. The reason for that are the important amounts of wine put back on the markets worldwide by concerned speculators. Thus, Mouton Rothschild 2005 was recently being sold by Swiss retailer Wiss with a 30% discount, which is a price barely above futures. Similar to stock prices, nothing is granted that those prices of wines will not decrease further more. Last spring, Haut-Brion managing director Jean-Bernard Delmas, was telling me that in his opinion above 200 euros, a wine was no longer drank. I remember an article from a French magazine where Bernard Magrez, owner of château Pape Clément was thinking that now a wine was more displayed than drunk. To date, nobody is able to tell what will happen in the next few months. Nevertheless, I have the feeling that some idolatrous discourse on wine is at risk. During a crisis, we will get a more accurate perception of what some people call in a disembodied fashion “brand value”. Is it reasonable to bring to the pinnacle of prices a food product? (I am classifying wine among the food products just like they do in Spain) Despite not being finished, it is being talked in Bordeaux of the difficulty of selling the 2008 wines. Which negociants house will accept bearing them, while their balance sheets are already jam-packed of 2007. In case the latter would become cumbersome, what would be their fate? In the event that retail would not be bearing the 2008, the chateau would be keeping them and financing them. What will they think of that? I am expecting to see some negociants in difficult situations, which will merge or be acquired by others. It will be important to know who to trust your money into when buying your wine. Far from this tumult, I enjoyed a very good Haut-Brion 1987 (rated 16.25-16.50 // 89-90), a vintage with no reputation, no excessive price, in which this estate shows rather in aromas than body. This vintage is ready for drinking; its nose is really intense. It has the very typical nose from Haut-Brion but the medium body of the vintage. After all, pleasure can come without extravaganza or extreme. It is good to remember the saying that recommends buying lesser vintages from highest notorious chateaux and great vintages from lesser-known estates. I would be curious tasting this wine in magnum size. As you already know, I believe in the superiority of the size of this container for the quality in the taste of wine. I recently measured it with amateurs in comparing a château Lagrange 1986 in bottle (very good now, with some bottles fading, rated 16.75 // 91) and in magnum (still lively, rated 17 // 92). In the next chronicles, I will talk about a recent conference given in Kazakhstan and a vertical tasting of Ausone from 1982 to 2004 made with amateurs: lots of tears, sadness and joy. It will be interesting to get comments from Alain Vauthier regarding these results. __________________________________________ THE NEW LIFE OF CHATEAU LE CROCK – St Estèphe Isabelle Davin is a young oenologist hired by Didier Cuvelier in château Léoville Poyferré and château Le Crock. Since 2002, she influences a lot the quality of Léoville Poyferré. Yet, it is at Le Crock where she proved her abilities in producing a 2002 vintage better than 2000. During the last 12 months, we met twice to taste the following wines. These notes illustrate well the power of mankind on the taste of wine. 1998……………………….. 14 // 84 The old concrete vat cellar was still in use with no temperature control. The big size of the vats prevented performing any selection. While the wine is quite colorful, its nose lacks purity. On the palate, the lack of ripeness of the grapes makes the finish slightly acidic. It is the wine of another time. 1999……………………….. 13 // 80 and 15 // 86 A new vat cellar was installed just before the harvest with temperature controlled small vats. Time was probably missing to benefit the most of these new tools. I have had this wine with different tastes, sometimes mellow yet enjoyable on the palate (rated 15 //86), sometimes rigid and dry on the finish (rated 13 // 80). 2000……………………….. 15,25-15,5 // 87 Very lovely dark color. Fine, pure and fresh nose. Twice, the smoothness on entry appeared marvelous. Twice again, the finish showed firm, slightly rustic and lacking fatness. It only needs time. This stiffness can be associated to high yield and uneven ripeness. 2001……………………….. 15,5 // 87-88 Dark red color. Aromatic and ripe nose, rather charming and lesser “cold” than the 2000. On the palate, this is the first vintage to appear well balanced, with no break between the smoothness of entry and the powerful finish. Very fruity and fleshy, it finishes with an elegant weaving. Can be enjoyed now and before 2020. Another wine from 2001 better than 2000. 2002……………………….. 15,75 // 88 With this vintage, old barrels disappeared. The wine was made with neither chaptalization, nor reverse osmosis. Isabelle Davin reestablished the use of filtration and fining. Yields were down at 42hl/ha. Dark red and quite intense color. Fresh, pure and quite fine nose, of curry, spices and bilberry. Dense, tight and very fruity on the palate, the wine appears finely pulpy and melting. Rather elongated than wide, it finishes tasty, with an ink characteristic. Wait until 2010 and before 2025. 2003……………………….. 16,25-16,5 // 89-90 Intense dark red color. Fruity, aromatic and powerful nose smelling of coffee, praline and cherry. On the palate, the wine is distinguished by its ascending power, its fat and final sap, both juicy and delicious, with no dryness at all. Enjoy it now or wait until 2012 and before 2035. 2004……………………….. 15,25 // 87 Dark red color of average intensity. Fine, fruity and floral nose. Tasty on the palate, the wine is fruity and of medium body. The style is elongated and rather aromatic on finish. Tannins are apparent yet showing no roughness. Wait until 2010 and before 2020. 2005……………………….. 16 // 88-89 Intense dark red color. Fine, fruity, creamy and fresh nose of medium aromatic intensity. Juicy and tasty on the palate, the wine appears very lively, delicious and melting, yet without the extravaganza of the 2003. At this stage one cannot help but swallowing it. Enjoy it now or wait until 2012. __________________________________________ TASTING CLUBS Paris tasting club Our tasting club has launched again with a comparative tasting of Palmer and Pichon Comtesse. Three seats are still available. The tasting program of the year is available upon request. Friburg, Switzerland tasting club In addition to the tasting program that has already started (with an Ausone vertical performed two weeks ago and an upcoming Angélus vertical), we are preparing a grand evening where Château Margaux will be compared to La Tache and to La Romanée Conti. In case you would be interested in this event, please contact me. Bergerac tasting club. Two to three seats are still available. London tasting club. One subscriber has solicited me to start a club in London. Please let me know in case you would be interested to join. __________________________________________ BELGIUM CONFERENCE on November 27th and 28th I will be hosting a tasting on the theme of “What is the quality in the taste of wines, and how to recognize it?” -Thursday November 27th in Lendelede at Wijne Henri Petre corporation, -Friday November 28th, in Herentals at the Van Eccelpoel corporation. I am looking forward to meeting you over there. The next chronicle will be published on November 17th. Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: All rights reserved. No part of this article may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the author: Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, 33320 Le Taillan-Médoc. France. Tél. 00 33 (0)5 56 35 83 93. Fax 00 33 (0)5 56 35 86 50. E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr

2008 Chronicles

Chronicle n° 68. The rebirth of château Le Crock, Saint Estèphe (1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005)

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