Bordeaux Futures 2008: Results (Part 11)

Médoc and Haut-Médoc - 39 tasting notes Eleventh report (April, 24th 2009) MEDOC AND HAUT MEDOC In 2008 the wines from the Médoc appellation seem to have push further the envelope than those of the Haut Médoc appellation, with the exception of classified growths whom receive other funding. In the north of the Medoc region, where the Médoc appellation is located, over Saint Seurin de Cadourne exists a land planted with magnificent gravely croups. These hold a nice surprise to those who are willing to work. The only drawback is the far distance from the city of Bordeaux and the lack of added value induced by the simple name of Medoc. Well this is wrong! Depending on how these soils are been worked, there are some better wines from the Médoc than the Haut Médoc and even some that are superior to communal appellations! (such as Margaux, Pauillac, etc) The best outsider from Bordeaux lies precisely in this region of the Medoc at Saint Christoly: That is Clos Manou. Clos Manou has produced a great 2008, in line with its 2005. Drive down 50 km South to Macau, in the Haut Médoc appellation at Château Belle-Vue. I felt one of my most beautiful emotions of this 2008 futures campaign by tasting the different 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon lots at the estate separately from the blended wine. I have found a taste profile in these cabernet sauvignon that is similar to those I tasted in the Margaux appellation. Such a perception attracts two observations: - Why isn’t there more cabernet sauvignon in the blend of this wine? - This opens the field of possibilities. It indicates that the area located between Blanquefort from the Haut Medoc area and the Margaux appellation, a potential greatness is possible. In short, north of St. Seurin de Cadourne, and south of Margaux, men can reduce the limitations imposed by maps: these maps structure the way we sometimes unfairly see wine from these area. _____________________________________________________________ MEDOC AND HAUT MEDOC - 39 tasting notesBELGRAVE Haut-Médoc 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing a dark red color of good intensity with a fruity yet discreet nose, on the palate this wine offers structure, taste, roundness and body. It finishes fruity and spicy over coated tannins. This is good! BELLE-VUE Haut-Médoc 15,25 // 87 This estate is a very offensive outsider in this vintage. Similar to Gironville, the quality of fruit and in particular its purity is excellent in this vintage for the wines made by Mr. Mulliez. The color is both purple and vivid, along with a fruity, ripe, pure and precise nose. Delicious and rich in fruits on the palate, it delivers some melting sensations. This wine evolves juicy and suave on finish, with presence and length, over a tensed character. BERNADOTTE Haut-Médoc 15 // 86 This wine offers a fruity, fresh and spicy nose. It performs delicious, silky and aromatic on the palate, sliding with taste over a medium body. It will be very enjoyable in its youth. CAMBON LA PELOUSE Haut-Médoc 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a color of medium intensity with a fruity and spicy nose, this wine performs tender, fruity and enjoyable on the palate, with medium length and body. CAMENSAC Haut-Médoc 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a discreet, fruity and slightly creamy nose, this wine performs with medium body, a fruity taste yet a slightly restrained overall expression. It offers coated tannins and a medium length. CANTEMERLE Haut-Médoc 13,75 // 83 Showing a dark red color of medium intensity with a vivid (as often) and slightly green nose, this wine is discreet on the palate, with a lack of body. Ripeness and definition are also lacking too. It finishes slightly bitter. CARONNE SAINTE GEMME Haut-Médoc 15 // 86 This wine is one of the successes of the vintage. Showing a dark color with a fresh, fruity, creamy, pure and lovely nose; it performs suave and very fruity on entry, and then evolves savory and full on the mid-palate. It develops with taste and a lovely presence on finish. Tannins are coated and dubbed with a nice energy. CHARMAIL Haut-Médoc 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing a dark and profound color with a very fruity and particularly pure and creamy nose; this wine offers a subtly rounded palate, performing mellow, juicy and velvety. It develops hedonistic, with no weakness of body and no tannic roughness. The finish is of good length. A success. CITRAN Haut-Médoc 14,5 - 14,75 // 85 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity nose of ripe type, this wine performs rounded and tender on the palate, with taste and rather fine tannins. This wine is easy and ideal for early consumption. CLOS DU JAUGUEYRON Haut-Médoc 14,75 // 85 - 86 As often, this estate has produced a wine that is well made and fruity; caressing on the palate and of medium body. It finishes over a tad apparent tannins, yet also performing quite suave. Barrel ageing should reveal it more. CLOS MANOU Médoc 16,5 // 90My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaign. This is the best Quality Price Ratio of all the 2008 vintage: 16 euros VAT included for direct sales to consumers. Since last year, I went three times to visit the estate, including one to get a tour of the entire vineyards with M. Dief. I remind my readers that all work is made manually and that the harvest is de-stemmed by hand and fermented into small containers. In 2008, nature was generous in this location of the médoc as yields were 55hl/ha. It is important to moderate this figure by underlining the fact that the vineyard is planted at 10,000 feet per hectare, which after all only makes about 1.2 Kilo of grape per vine. As always, Merlots were substantially bleed (30% in this vintage) and cabernet a little less. There will not be any cabernet franc in Clos Manou 2008 as Mr. Dief considered them to be of lesser quality compared to the 2007 vintage. Clos Manou 2008 is a blend of : 54 % cabernet sauvignon, 42 % merlot, et 4 % petit verdot. This Grand Vin only represents 28% of the overall harvest. The alcohol level is 13.2°, pH is 3.6; Total acidity is 3.3 and the Potential Tannin level equals 92 (very rich). You can listen on the website my interview of Mr. Dief at the beginning of the harvest when he was quite worried. At that time, he thought that he would not produce any Grand Vin. The next two weeks definitely changed the course of the history of the vintage, which I consider in line with the 2005. This Clos Manou 2008 is a must have of the vintage. Do not miss it. Contact: +33 5 56 41 54 20 - Email : sogeviti.sf@wanadoo.fr Showing a dark and intense purple color with a fruity nose of ripe type, this wine performs velvety on entry, then develops aromatic and fat, with body and energy. This Clos Manou proves to be very tasty, with characteristics of blackcurrant followed by smoke and finishes melting and long over a very nice grain of tannins. The presentation of this wine is particularly harmonious. It is one of the great successes of the vintage. COUFRAN Haut-Médoc 14,5 // 85 This is a simple wine that is well made, which performs enjoyable and slightly flowing with tannins that have no toughness and a medium length. D'AGASSAC Haut-Médoc 14 // 84 The vintage seems to be emphasizing the general flowing character of this wine. Depth and presence are missing on the mid palate of this wine. It finishes of medium length. D'ESCURAC Médoc 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity and ripe nose, this wine performs caressing on entry, then develops savory and aromatic over a medium power and coated tannins. It finishes quite long with a fruity taste. This wine seems to have accomplished a more complete ripeness than some other vintages. DE GIRONVILLE Haut-Médoc 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a lovely red color of medium intensity with an aromatic, fruity and spicy nose; this wine performs tender and suave, with taste, a medium body and finely pulpy. There are some very seductive suave hints in the persistence, along with coated tannins. DE LAMARQUE Haut-Médoc 14,5 // 85 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity, fresh, ripe and floral nose, this wine performs tender and fruity on the palate, both aromatic and savory. Tannins appear to be finer than usual, which is a good thing. It finishes over a medium length. DU RETOUT Haut-Médoc 15 // 86 This estate shows a lot of detailed work and provides an excellent Quality Price Ratio. It stands out of the crowd in this vintage, which is to say how much quality work has been accomplished here. Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a discreet, fruity and floral nose, this wine performs very well structured, that starts fruity and caressing on entry, with presence and a medium body. After the mid-palate, the wine has an enjoyable rebound on finish, with taste, fruity and fine tannins. FONTAINE DE L'AUBIER Médoc 14 // 84 Showing a quite intense dark color with a discreet and fruity nose, this wine performs rounded and fruity with no tannic toughness on the palate and a medium body. You will witness that the three wines from Rémy Fauchey, including L'Inclassable, and L'Inclassable de Rémy Fauchey have an unprecedented velvety character in this vintage. HAUT CONDISSAS Médoc 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing a dark color of good intensity with a fruity nose of ripe type, this wine performs dense from entry and full on the mid-palate. It evolves fat and very fruity, along with taste as well as a powerful and long finish. This is very good and above all, well structured. HAUT MAURAC Médoc 13,75 // 83 This wine offers very particular tar characteristics on the nose. On the palate, it delivers more fruit, yet it lacks body and the wine drops on finish, performing austere. I do not find back in this wine the great work that Olivier Decelle, the owner has been putting into Jean Faure (in St Emilion) since 2007. Perhaps it will come later. L'INCLASSABLE Médoc 15,5 // 87 - 88 Remy Fauchey has particularly succeeded in this vintage. His wines show an unprecedented velvety character. The portion of petit verdot generally quite high (between 12 and 14%) is even higher this year at 18%. This varietal was harvested on November 2nd. The color is dark and the nose rather discreet for the moment. It is distinguished on the palate by its juicy character, with a vibrant fruit. It melts on the mid-palate, finishing savory over good substance and a tad tough. Again, this is a good result from late harvesting. L'INCLASSABLE DE RÉMY FAUCHEY Médoc 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing a dark color with a discreet nose, this wine performs pulpy, juicy and suave on the palate despite an energetic character. It offers the most coated tannins ever seen from this estate, along with a very good length. This rating may further increase throughout barrel ageing. LA LAGUNE Haut-Médoc 16,25 // 89A blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot and 15% petit verdot, this vintage has an additional one third portion of it of Cabernet than usual. Usually, its portion is around 10%. This estate experienced a tough season with coulure, milerandage and even frost over 15ha on April 7th, then hail during the month of August. As a result, the yield is a mere 30hl/ha. The selection represents 60% of the harvest. In Mr. Moulin's opinion, director of La Lagune, “waiting for some of the cabernet sauvignon did not bring anything”. This is a different speech than the usual need for waiting. Showing a dark color, one of the darkest even seen from this estate along with a fine, fruity, ripe and pure nose, this 2008 is quite new for the estate. Indeed it offers a fine flesh and a very seductive pulp. Very well built, this wine melts on the palate all along the tasting. It finishes powerful and long with taste and no stiff tannins whatsoever. This wine will be rewarding with pleasure. LA TOUR CARNET Haut-Médoc 15,75 // 88 Showing a dark and intense color with a nose that is marked by the wood and a resin character; my belief is that this is a temporary perception. Tender on entry, this wine is both generous and fruity on the mid-palate. It is well endowed and develops quite powerful, with taste and a lovely tannic coating. It finishes over a medium length. LA TOUR DE BY Médoc 14,5 - 14,75 // 85 It seems to me that this estate is improving. Showing a dark red color of medium intensity with a fruity and fresh nose, this wine performs fleshy and rounded on the palate. It offers taste and a more nuanced construction than in the past. It finishes over a medium length. LAROSE PERGANSON Haut-Médoc 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark and vivid red-purple color with a fruity, fresh and ripe nose; this wine performs savory, fresh and aromatic on the palate along with a finely textured finish. It offers medium body and length. It is a nice bottle with a quite vibrant fruit. LAROSE TRINTAUDON Haut-Médoc 14 // 84 Showing a dark and vivid color with a fruity, fresh and pure nose, this wine performs very enjoyable and caressing on the palate, of medium body, with soft tannins and vibrant fruit. It offers a medium length. This will be a very good Quality Price Ratio. LES ORMES SORBET Médoc 13,75 // 83 Showing a dark color and a discreet nose, this wine performs light and aromatic on the palate, with discreet tannins. MAISON BLANCHE Médoc 15 // 86 This wine is among other wines from the simple Médoc appellation that were particularly successful in this vintage. It is distinguished by a deep fruitiness on the nose and a lovely color. Finely fleshy and aromatic, this wine shows good body and savory tannins that are very well coated and present in the persistence. Barrel ageing should further refine and magnify it. PALOUMEY Haut-Médoc 13,75 // 83 The wine performs quite flowing, with slightly edgy tannins on finish. To be retasted during barrel ageing. PATACHE D'AUX Médoc 13 // 80 This wine is too light. PETIT MANOU Médoc 14,5 // 85 This is the second label from Clos Manou. Showing a lovely color of medium intensity with a fruity, fresh and creamy nose, this wine performs very fruity and of medium body on the palate, yet finishes aromatic. Tannins are a tad apparent. PEYRABON Haut-Médoc 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity and ripe nose, this wine performs mellow on entry, developing savory over a tender and very fruity body. It finishes over coated tannins with a medium length. It can be enjoyed in its youth. POTENSAC Médoc 15 - 15,25 // 86 - 87 Showing a dark red color of good intensity with a nose of ripe type yet remaining discreet. This wine performs finely pulpy on the palate, with a good body and plenty of nice fruit. Tannins are coated and this wine finishes of medium length. PREUILLAC Médoc 14,5 // 85 Showing a dark color of good intensity with a fruity nose of ripe type, this wine performs soft and quite pulpy on entry, then evolves savory with taste, medium body and coated tannins. It is quite likely that this softness originates from a more merlot based blend (60%) than cabernet sauvignon (40%). ROLLAN DE BY Médoc 14 // 84 This wine performs with a tender body on the palate and finishes over a medium length SOCIANDO MALLET Haut-Médoc 15,75 - 16 // 88 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a discreet nose, this wine performs lovely on entry where it then starts developing savory with a very nice mellow character for this vintage. It is rather dense and evolves tasty, with nice fruit vibrancy. Tannins are well coated. It finishes over a good length. TOUR HAUT CAUSSAN Médoc 14,5 // 85 This wine performs tender and fruity on the palate, with pleasant body and medium length. TOUR SERAN Médoc 14,25 // 84 - 85 This wine offers a discreet nose and performs savory and fruity, with a medium and caressing body. It finishes both aromatic and quite distinguished. The next report will be published on Thusday, April 28th. Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use brief portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, Quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

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Bordeaux Futures 2008: Results (Part 11)

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