Bordeaux Futures 2008: Results (Part 12)

2008 vintage: Go for the magnums.What's new in Saint-Estèphe? Saint-Estèphe wines: 22 tasting notes Twelfth report (April, 27th 2009) 2008 VINTAGE: GO FOR THE MAGNUMS I am struck by the drinkability of some 2008. While their soft and easy character is an indicator not to place this vintage among the best, it is an advantage for the consumption of younger wines. They show without green characteristic, without harsh tannins, very fruity, soft and flowing on the palate; as is, the pleasure of drinking is already acquired. On the other hand, the level of application in the work of men has never been that high. Given their style and their price, these wines have a place in good cellars, if well selected. I suggest buying them especially in magnum size. At the same age and compared to a bottle size, this container will give the wine a sense of body that we find less in small size containers. The magnum size grows above average the sensations identified by tasting the same vintage in the bottle. Furthermore, it extends the window of consumption by keeping the wine for a longer life. To drink a wine young from magnum, you just have to decant it for a longer time. In red and white, the true taste of wine is in the magnum. The 2008 wines have an ageing potential from average to good, in accordance with their heterogeneity of constitution. The date range of ageing potential and life span of these 2008 will be given at the end of barrel ageing. ________________________________________________________ WHAT’S NEW IN SAINT ESTEPHE ? 2008 is an average to good vintage in Saint-Estephe, with no tannic toughness; yet with no great power either. Among other communal appellations where classified growths are located, Saint-Estephe holds the fewest number of good ratings. Yet, many things are changing over there: Important work at Montrose and Cos d'Estournel; a replanting policy to 10 000 vines / ha at Calon Ségur; the beginning of the rebirth of Lilian Ladouys; the confirmed improvement of Phélan Ségur; higher percentage of new barrels for the ageing of Les Ormes de Pez; some extra stuffing for Haut Beausejour; Sérilhan making its best vintage; Meyney taking off, and finally Le Crock becoming the number 1 outsider as the result of the combined efforts and Isabelle Davin and Didier Cuvelier. I will retaste tomorrow morning, on Tuesday April 28th another sample of Le Crock with 5% press wine added to the blend (see my tasting note) and will talk about it on Wednesday night. As I said last year, unclassified wines, are the ones which always strike me as the most promising in this appellation. There are places to be taken! ________________________________________________________ SAINT-ESTEPHE WINES - 22 tasting notes ANDRON BLANQUET Saint-Estèphe 15 // 86 The sensation of success that I feel in Cos Laborie can be found again at Andron Blanquet which shows well colored, of medium fruit intensity on the nose. On the other hand it performs with a suave character on the palate that changes the perception that I have had to date: the fact that I always found it quite firm. It offers good body with a tasty and quite long finish. BEAU SITE Saint-Estèphe 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity and spicy nose, this wine performs suave, soft and mellow on the palate over a medium body. I don't think that I have ever seen this wine so soft while tasted as futures. It finishes of medium length. CALON SEGUR Saint-Estèphe 16 // 88 - 89 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a discreet and fruity nose, this wine performs well structured on the palate, with taste and fruit as well as a delicate pulp of coated tannins, yet slightly fading in the persistence. It finishes over a medium length. It is a blend of 80% cabernet sauvignon, 18% merlot, and 2% petit verdot. The Grand Vin represents a selection of 50% of the harvest. The alcohol level is 13°5. Total acidity is 3.5. pH is 3.7 and the Potential Tannin level is 72. (Quite high). Since 2006, the portion of Cabernet Sauvignon has kept increasing in this wine at the same time than new wood. Starting from now, the 2008 will be aged in 90% new wood compared to 65% for the 2006. CLAUZET Saint-Estèphe 15,25 - 15,5 // 87 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity and fresh nose, this wine performs tender and juicy, finely pulpy on the mid-palate and very fruity. It spreads on the palate getting into a more elongated shape than usual and slightly less powerful. The wine finishes over a good length with tannins that are very well coated by fruits. COS LABORY Saint-Estèphe 15,75 - 16 // 88 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity and ripe nose, this vintage gives Cos Labory a particular profile. It is one of the softest wines I have ever tasted from this estate. It develops dense while remaining tender and finishes over coated tannins and a nice length. DE CÔME Saint-Estèphe 14,5 // 85 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity, fresh and ripe nose, this wine performs tender from entry, and then develops finely pulpy. The wine offers some coated tannins with a medium length. It will be for early drinking. DE PEZ Saint-Estèphe 15,75 - 16 // 88 Showing a lovely color with a fruity and slightly woody nose, this wine performs quite fat on the palate, both fruity and rounded, juicy, with coated tannins and plenty of aromas. It finishes long and tannic. It is good! HAUT BEAUSEJOUR Saint-Estèphe 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 This wine is distinguished in this vintage by a little mode cabernet sauvignon than usual, which provides it with a flesh of higher quality. It offers a fine nose and performs savory, structured and very enjoyable on the palate, with a suave touch in the persistence. HAUT MARBUZET Saint-Estèphe 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing a dark color with a discreet nose, this wine performs tender, suave and very hedonistic. It slightly lacks expression on the mid-palate and finishes of medium length. It is more in aromas than tannic power. L'ARGILUS DU ROI Saint-Estèphe 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity and spicy nose, this wine performs tender, fruity and pulpy on the palate, both aromatic and of medium power. Tannins are well coated. This is a very enjoyable wine. LA DAME DE MONTROSE Saint-Estèphe 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color with a fruity and slightly animal nose, it offers a « cold » aromatic character. On the palate, the wine is still a bit effervescent. It offers a medium body and austere tannins in the persistence. LAFON ROCHET Saint-Estèphe 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing a color or good intensity with a fruity nose of ripe type, this wine performs soft, fruity and savory. It offers good body, fruit and a discreet finish with coated tannins. LE CROCK Saint-Estèphe 16 // 88 - 89This is an outsider of the Médoc as shown from my repeated tastings of the 2003, 2004, 2005 and 2006 vintages. It shows a dark red color, one of the darkest ever seen here, along with an aromatic nose. It is incredible to find a nose so fruity, so ripe and so pure. Very pulpy on the palate, this wine comes with a vibrant fruit and a very good structure. It is a top wine with ripe and coated tannins. Bravo! It is a blend of 57% cabernet sauvignon, 15% cabernet franc, 23% merlot, and 5% petit verdot. At this time the estate has only presented a sample that did not include any press wine. It will be added later. For those in charge, this press wine is essential for the ageing potential of their 2008 over time. We shall see. I hope the blending will be done with a light hand. LES ORMES DE PEZ Saint-Estèphe 15 // 86 As often, this wine shows well made. It displays a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity, fresh, ripe and spicy nose. Right now, this sample performs slightly woody on the palate, but that is to be expected since the estate has increased the portion of new wooden barrels. This will consequently make it more refined at the end of barrel aging time. It offers fruit with good structure and medium length. The wine is a blend of 51% cabernet sauvignon, 39% merlot, 8% cabernet franc, and 2% petit verdot.LILIAN LADOUYS Saint-Estèphe 15 // 86This estate which was created during the 90s has been rapidly forgotten due to financial management reasons. Since September 2008, a new investor has decided to revive it. M. Vincent Mulliez, owner of Belle-Vue and de Gironville is in charge of making it reborn. It is a surprising wine for its suavity and a very ripe taste. Well made, savory, and aromatic, it evolves melting on the palate, with good length. Careful work is new and the overall wine is delicious. MEYNEY Saint-Estèphe 15,5 // 87 - 88 This is an unrecognizable Meyney which announces the rebirth of the estate. It shows a color as intense as usual, but with a much more precise nose in its fruit expression. Above all, the wine offers a suavity which is really uncommon for this property. In fact, this is among the best Meyney I taste as futures. The wine offers a nice body and after the mid-palate, it performs tasty and finishes over fine tannins instead of showing the rustic tannins that I have blamed for long. It's a success. MONTROSE Saint-Estèphe 16 - 16,25 // 88 - 89 Showing a lovely dark and intense color with a discreet nose of little aromas, yet this wine has depth and performs very precise on entry, with fat. Then it develops quite aromatic and juicy. There are is a slightly floating nuance on the mid-palate and then the wine makes a return, more tannic on finish. It lacks a spark to my opinion! It is a blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot. The potential tannin level is 87 (very rich).PHELAN SEGUR Saint-Estèphe 15,75 // 88 Since 2006, this wine has been rising higher in quality towards classified growths of the appellation. My opinion is that it can even improve further. Showing a dark color of good intensity with a discreet nose, this wine is well structured, with presence from entry. It offers a lovely rather full mid-palate, and then evolves savory with taste and good length. PHELAN SEGUR Fée aux roses Saint-Estèphe 15,5 - 15,75 // 87 - 88 In downtown Bordeaux, I had heard about this particular selection of the estate and I was eager to taste it. It is made from 4ha with very low yields. The fermentation is made in 5hl barrels and the wine is aged in new wooden barrels but without lees…In my opinion, that is where the issue is. So I was expecting more fat, more complexity, more aromas and happiness. In the end, this attempt is no better than the Phélan Segur and more expensive for sure. 2008 is the second vintage. To be followed during barrel ageing. SEGUR DE CABANAC Saint-Estèphe 14,5 // 85 Showing a nice color with a spicy and fruity nose, this wine performs tender on the palate, of medium body and length. SERILHAN Saint-Estèphe 15 // 86 My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaign. It is probable that Mr. Marcelis may have found Hubert de Bouard to be the right person to help him crafting this wine. At least what is for sure is that this is the best wine I have ever tasted from the estate. It offers a fine, fruity, ripe and finely woody nose, and then performs rounded and fruity on the palate; quite fat, that evolves sappy and savory with taste and lift. It remains a tad tannic on finish, yet shows one of the most beautiful construction that I have ever seen, with fresh fruit, fatness and no fading. TRONQUOY LALANDE Saint-Estèphe 15,25 // 87 Showing a lovely dark and intense color with a discreet nose of ripe fruit, even very ripe, this wine performs soft, suave, very fruity and aromatic on the palate, finely fat on the second part of the palate. Tannins are coated and there is a real Southern taste at this estate. It finishes over ink characteristics. I feel a lot of potential in this terroir. It is a blend of 50% merlot, 37% cabernet sauvignon, and 13% petit verdot. The next report will be published on Wednesday, April 29th. Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use brief portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, Quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

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Bordeaux Futures 2008: Results (Part 12)

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