Bordeaux Futures 2008: Results (Part 14)

Introduction to Sauternes and Barsac2008 Bordeaux futures: summary and conclusionUpcoming tasting events of the 2008 BordeauxBarsac-Sauternes : 22 tasting notesMiscellaneous : 20 tasting notesFourteenth report (May 1st 2009)SAUTERNES & BARSAC The frost that took place on April 7th has significantly reduced the 2008 harvest. This small volume will not make producers afraid to sell the wine at a high price. In search of Botrytis, the successive tries were staggered between late September and mid-November. The wines have a very singular style. Strong and not biting acidity, induces a very vivid balance on the palate, vibrant, lively and sometimes tense. This acidity makes us forget the sometime important presence of residual sugar. This very particular balance gives a Barsac style (of lemon character) to the whole production. It enhances the palatability by pushing the desire to swallow. The best wines have a nice density, probably due to low yields and no heaviness. For now, only complexity lacks on finish. Fargues and Yquem are the two wines where I felt the most a finely roasted character on finish. Doisy Daëne did not produce “L’Extravagant” this year. 2008 is a good vintage in Sauternes, the wines have a good ageing potential and will be enjoyed with great ease at the table with a meal as well as outside the table in other circumstances. _______________________________________________________________ 2008 BORDEAUX FUTURES: SUMMARY & CONCLUSION 2008 is a good vintage of very heterogeneous red wines. Some wines, particularly in the midrange, managed the feat to put their wine in line with the 2005. This impression does not exist in the top growths of the hierarchy. Why? On reflection, I think many estates have benefited from the beautiful late-season to organize their harvest differently. Without haste, they waited for the ripeness of some areas. They also performed a highly comprehensive parcel-based selection, by separating into several tanks the harvested grapes that would so far get in one. The greatest estates have been doing such a thing for a long time. The desire to save a vintage that was seen as poor early September did motivate a lot. But it is especially the low volume of harvest which allowed this work of precision. It was impossible with large yields. In writing these lines, I think of La Clotte, Corbin, Fleur Cardinale and of so many others that I mentioned in my reports. About the red wines’ color. Indisputably, it is dark, deep and beautiful. However, I wish to draw readers' attention to the fact that in recent years (since 2004), the color of En-primeur wines no longer has the same meaning as in the past. We know today how to obtain color in wines that are presented as futures without having a lot of tannins. In other words, the classic and true link that exists within the bottled wine between the intensity of color and the wine’s body is no longer automatic during futures. The fine readers of my tasting notes will notice. Moreover, the presentation of many wines with low free sulfur levels emphasizes their color. In these circumstances it is not surprising that some commentators have rated higher than usual the wines presented by Christian Moueix (see report No. 6). I would like to remind you that he did report to me that for the first time in more than twenty years, he did present this year wines with low levels of free sulfur. About the red wines’ nose. Compared to great vintages, aromatic intensities are lacking in order to have 2008 part of the great years. This does not prevent wines to be very fruity on the palate. About perceptions on the palate Although many wines have a high degree of alcohol and good acidity, they perform loose and mellow on entry. On the mid-palate, only the best wines show presence. This is the weakest point of the vintage. From experience, I would say that the quality of August makes or breaks the intensity of the presence on the mid-palate. August 2008 was not a great month of August. About the finish. They are the highlight of the year. As I have been saying for several years, the months of September and October are responsible for the quality of the wine’s finish. Indeed, leaving the grapes to ripen well, enables avoiding the perception of squared or dry tannins. This ripeness contributes to the silky characteristic of the 2008s. While the wines have a good taste of ripe fruit, yet their finishes do not have the length of the great vintages. 2006 is more aromatic than 2008, and 2005 much more powerful and richer in all areas of the palate. Today, many red wines are aged on lies. The lies provide fat to the wines, more or less temporarily. Depending on how the sample is prepared for our futures tastings, this perception appears more or less strongly. A few seconds might give the impression of a magnificent and velvety body. In 2008, there are many cases where the body falls on finish. So far, the good values used to judge a great vintage remain power on the mid-palate, along with the length and complexity of flavors during the persistence. For twenty years I have been tasting futures, I would say that the better the vintage is, the more a wine is exciting your senses. The stronger this solicitation of the senses is, the greater the time of tasting and taking notes is long, provided that enough wine is taken on your palate to feel enough solicitation. Yet, regarding the 2008 vintage, my tastings were rather fast. In the history of the quality of Bordeaux wines, there is no great late vintage. Only 1978 would appear as an exception. 2008 is likely to become the best late vintage, the softest and the most seductive. The very strong application of men, associated to money used to fund it, along with an all the more fantastic end of season that it was unexpected, and small yields do explain these performances. What is there to be thought about those grapes harvested from twenty to thirty days after the end of their growth cycle theory? The last similar case was in 1997. We know what they have become. In the history again, low yields are an obstacle to the accuracy of the selections. Let us remember that many in 2003 took a dry character at the end of barrel aging, not because of the heatwave, but by reckless addition of press wines into the blend. By volume, it was necessary to remedy the small yield. We cannot ask this question in 2008. We do taste samples and are at the heart of an economic crisis at the same time. It is therefore reasonable to make some purchases knowing the evolution of the ratings during the recent vintages for these wines involved and focusing on those which are on the rise. In their strategy, these estates legitimately benefit from the vintage in order to widening the gap with their neighbors and nonetheless competitors. This was the last report of this futures campaign. It does not mean that I will stop to taste these wines. On the contrary, being based out of Bordeaux gives me a position that allows me to have a permanent view on all progress and evolutions. _______________________________________________________________ UPCOMING TASTING EVENTS OF THE 2008 BORDEAUXPARIS : Monday May 18th. I will be presenting my results to my tasting Club in Paris. The event is open to non-members. More information is available upon request. BORDEAUX : May 28th and 29th. I will host a two days tasting and training session for amateurs in order to have them taste through my best results at the estates. There are just a few more seats open. More information is available upon request. LONDON – June 3rd. A tasting event project is currently under study with a wine merchant. SWITZERLAND – LAUSANNE : June 9th. I will be presenting a selection of my best tasting results to the customers of the Magnin Corporation. Finally, I would like to thank very much Catherine and Arnaud for their drive and the quality of their work. Without their presence, producing this sixth edition of the Bordeaux Futures Live reports would not have the same taste. I also would like to thank the producers who did accept to participate, as well as my readers. You have been an additional 20% to follow these reports compared to last year. _______________________________________________________________ WINE REVIEWS DATABASE UPDATE As early as Monday, you will find all the ratings and tasting notes of the 2008 Bordeaux in French and English available inside the wine reviews database (over 500 tasting notes in each language) along with the prices which are already released on the market. You will be at ease to establish yourself the list of the ratings of the vintage. _______________________________________________________________ SAUTERNES BARSAC : 25 tasting notesBASTOR LAMONTAGNE Sauternes 14 // 84 An enjoyable and simple wine. BROUSTET Barsac 12 // 76 The nose of this wine is curious, and it performs dull with a lack of precision on the palate. CAILLOU Barsac 14,5 // 85 Showing a pale yellow color with a fruity, discreet and spicy nose, this wine performs of fine mellow touch on the palate, quite tensed and finishes over a spicy and fruity character. It is pleasant overall. CANTEGRIL Sauternes 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 Showing a yellow color with a fruity, fresh and pure nose, this wine performs with more delicacy than usual on the palate. It develops suave and melting with taste over an aromatic and medium length. It is quite fine overall. CLOS HAUT PEYRAGUEY Sauternes 15,75 - 16 // 88 Showing a yellow green color with a fresh, fruity, discreet and fine nose, this wine performs soft and subtle on the palate, even delicate and melting. It offers a nice body and finishes aromatic over an orange character. Yet, it remains of medium length. COUTET Barsac 16 // 88 - 89 Showing a yellow green color with a discreet, fruity and floral nose, this wine performs soft on the palate, with an aromatic and fine touch that develops over a lovely taste of pear. It finishes sweet, spicy and quite long. D'ARCHE Sauternes 15 // 86 Showing a yellow green color with a spicy and lemon nose that is closer to Barsac than Sauternes; this wine performs melting and soft on the palate, with a medium body, white fruit aromas (of pear) and medium vibrancy. It evolves over a medium length and finishes with a spicy character that may come as a result of the combination of strong acidity and alcohol. D'YQUEM Sauternes 17,25 // 93 Showing a pale yellow color with a fine, fruity and complex nose that comes along with a fruity and sweet almond character; upon swirling this wine clearly offers a botrytis nose. This 2008 Yquem is a world of softness and sappy nuances on the palate. It delivers the taste of Yquem from before the 2004 vintage, with an enigmatic characteristic intermixed of freshness, ripe fruit and candied fruits. It melts on the palate while appearing dense and present with medium power. It is totally impossible not to swallow. Bravo. DE FARGUES Sauternes 16,75 // 91 Showing a yellow green color with a nose of botrytis that is fine, pure, fresh, noble and complex; this wine performs lovely on entry, silky and ample; developing over a melting body with taste, plenty of fruit and a noble touch on the palate. This vintage is more expressive than usual at de Fargues. It is often the case when the month of July is very beautiful. This wine finishes long, spicy and tasty. It is a nice success that intermixes the mellow character from Sauternes with the vividness and freshness from Barsac in its structure. Very recommended. DE MALLE Sauternes 15,25 // 87 In this vintage, the wine has more sauvignon than usual; about 35% instead of 20 to 25%. It shows a yellow green color with a fruity, fresh and spicy nose. On the palate, the usual mellow character of this wine is still present. It finishes melting and very enjoyable, with good body, as well as a pure and well delineated fruit. It delivers a taste of pear in the persistence. DE MYRAT Barsac 13,75 // 83 It is a simple wine. DOISY DAENE liquoreux Barsac 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing a yellow green color with a fruity, floral and fine nose, this wine performs juicy and aromatic, of fine and melting touch. It finishes savory over a good and sappy length. GUIRAUD Sauternes 15,75 - 16 // 88 Showing a yellow green color with a fruity and spicy nose, this wine performs soft, suave and melting on the mid-palate, developing slightly discrete and sweet over nuances of oven roasted apples. This wine does not behave as usual. To be followed during barrel ageing. LA TOUR BLANCHE Sauternes 16,25 // 89 Showing a yellow green color with a fruity and pure nose that offers a lovely smell of pear and spices, this wine performs dense and tight on the palate, much more than usual. It develops melting and ethereal, with a real mid-palate. It finishes powerful and long over subtle and woody characteristics, delivering a very good, fruity and spicy length. LAFAURIE PEYRAGUEY Sauternes 15,5 - 15,75 // 87 - 88 Showing a yellow green color with fresh and pure nose that offers a lovely smell of banana, this wine performs soft and melts on the palate, appearing slightly purer than usual, better structured and without the heavy character which often qualified this growth in the past. LAMOTHE Sauternes 13,5 // 82 Showing a green yellow color with a discreet nose, this wine performs tender and slightly dull on the palate. LAMOTHE GUIGNARD Sauternes 14,25 // 84 - 85 This wine is enjoyable and fruity, yet remains simple. NAIRAC Barsac 16,75 // 91 Showing a yellow green color with a fine, fruity, fresh, pure and complex nose with a characteristics of lemon, vanilla, almond cream and spices. On entry, this wine performs delicate, caressing and then evolves melting, sappy and ethereal. There is a lemon character that circulates all along the tasting which makes the wine very savory. It finishes over a lovely sap on finish, very well structured and impossible not to swallow. The frost of April 7th has diminished the harvest down to yields of 3.98hl/ha. There will only be 450 cases of Nairac 2008. Such a small volume was picked through 6 passes into the vineyards, that is to say how serious and meticulous is Nicolas Heeter-Tari in his work. It is a blend of 88% Semillon, 9.5% of muscadelle and 2.5% of sauvignon. The alcohol level is 12.8°, residual sugars are of 129g/l and the total acidity is of 4.7g/l. pH of 3.42.RABAUD PROMIS Sauternes 16,25 - 16,5 // 89 - 90 Showing a yellow green color with a fruity, fresh, pure and fine nose, this wine performs delicate and of deliciously ethereal touch. It evolves melting and noble in its persistence, with rebound on the palate and a very good, spicy and fruity length. RAYNE VIGNEAU Sauternes 16 // 88 - 89 Showing a yellow green color with a fruity, fresh, pure and quite fine nose, this wine performs of silky touch from entry, then develops melting over a noble fashion, with taste and an ethereal yet powerful character. It finishes over a very good length, both fruity and spicy. RIEUSSEC Sauternes 15,25 // 87 Showing a yellow green color with a discreet, floral and fruity nose, this wine performs soft and slightly mellow on the palate, along with a medium vibrancy. There is stuffing but the overall expression remains quite simple. ROMER DU HAYOT Sauternes 14,5 // 85 Showing a yellow green color with a spicy and discreet nose, this wine performs soft, and then slightly mellow on the mid-palate. It offers both medium body and length. SIGALAS RABAUD Sauternes 15,25 - 15,5 // 87 Showing a sustained yellow color with a spicy and discreet nose, this wine performs slightly mellow on the palate and is not really structured. It finishes rather aromatic. The nuances in its taste translate a nice wine location. SUAU Barsac 14,5 // 85 Showing a pale yellow color with a discreet, fruity, vivid and pure nose; this wine performs enjoyable on the palate, of pure fruit, quite melting body and finishing of medium length. Its asset is the lack of heaviness. SUDUIRAUT Sauternes 16 - 16,25 // 88 - 89 Showing a pale yellow color with a spicy, fruity and floral nose as well as a fresh and botrytis character. This wine is distinguished in its touch on the palate, melting over with a nice precision of flesh. From another sample, I found a bit of thickness as often. It finishes aromatic and tasty over a good length. MISCELLANEOUS : 22 tasting notes BAD BOY Bordeaux rouge 14 // 84 This good wine shows nice color, offers a ripe and suave taste, and is already drinking very well once slightly chilled. It finishes of medium length. BOUSCAUT Pessac-Léognan rouge 15 // 86For the first time, this vintate has more cabernet sauvignon (48%) than merlot (45%) with the rest being malbec. This wine shows a lovely dark and intense color with a fruity nose that mostly offers a wet leather character which is typical from the graves. A hint of vanilla complements it. On the palate, it performs suave and very fruity, of medium body and finishes savory with soft tannins and a medium length. BRANAS GRAND POUJEAUX Moulis 14,5 // 85 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a discreet and fruity nose, this wine appears soft and aromatic on the palate, with a pure fruit and medium length. CAP LÉON VEYRIN Listrac 14 // 84 The wine show good color with a discreet nose. On the palate, it is enjoyable, fruity and savory; offering a good body and taste along with coated tannins. It finishes of medium length. CHASSE SPLEEN Moulis 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity and fresh nose of ripe type, this wine performs soft on entry, and then develops savory and finely pulpy over coated tannins and a medium body. It would largely benefit from additional power. CLIMAT DE CH. CANTENAC St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark and vivid red color with a discreet and fruity nose, this wine performs suave and mellow on the palate, and then develops aromatic, with good body and slightly catchy tannins on finish. Barrel ageing should melt this wine. DACHER DE DELMONTE Listrac 14 // 84 Showing a color of medium intensity with a fresh, fruity and spicy nose; this wine is built around fruit and offers a medium body. It performs tasty, with apparent yet not tough tannins. It finishes over a medium length. DE LA COUR D'ARGENT Bordeaux rouge 14,5 // 85 This is a very solid Bordeaux, showing a dark color with a discreet, fruity and spicy nose. It performs with no toughness, offering medium body and taste. FLEUR HAUT GAUSSENS Bordeaux Supérieur 14,5 - 15,75 // 85 This is a wine that performs higher than its appellation may suggest. Showing a lovely dark and intense color with a fruity, fresh, ripe and smoky nose; it appears tender, soft and fruity on the palate, developing over a medium body, with taste. Tannins are both apparent and coated on finish. Medium length. FONRÉAUD Listrac 14,5 // 85 This wine shows a good color with a quite discreet nose. On the palate, it performs finely fleshy, fruity and savory, with tannins that have no harshness. It finishes enjoyable and of medium length. GRAND VILLAGE rouge Bordeaux Supérieur 14,5 // 85 This is another quality Bordeaux Supérieur that proves very fruity, well structured and of medium body. It finishes over a very slightly austere touch in the persistence, yet remains very good. GREE LAROQUE Bordeaux Supérieur 14,25 // 84 - 85 Showing a lovely color with a fruity nose appearing merlot-like, this wine performs rounded and quite powerful before finishing slightly rustic in its persistence. HOSTENS PICANT CUVÉE LUCULLUS Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux 15 // 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity, this wine offers a fruity, fresh and ripe nose, performing velvety and suave on the palate, with a vibrant fruit. There is a savory taste of raspberry mixed with cocoa. It finishes of good length and well structured over a medium length. HOSTENS PICANT Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux 14,5 // 85 This is a pleasant and fruity wine with precise fruit flavors in the persistence. Tannins are discreet. To be enjoyed in its youth. JEAN FAUX Bordeaux Supérieur 14,5 - 14,75 // 85 This wine is suave and velvety, with a taste of ripe fruits and a medium body. Tannins are still a bit firm in the persistence. L'ISLE FORT Bordeaux Supérieur 14,75 // 85 - 86 This is a very good Bordeaux that shows a dark color with a fruity and ripe nose appearing merlot-like. On the palate, it is well structured, offering nice taste and body before finishing over coated tannins in the persistence, of medium length. LA LAUZETTE CLIMAT Listrac 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark, vivid color of medium intensity with a fine, floral, fruity yet not intense nose, this wine performs suave on entry, and then develops aromatic, with taste and an almost fragrant character of flowers and licorice. Tensed on the palate, it finishes over a medium length, with a fine grain despite being tannic. LES GRANDS MARÉCHAUX Premières Côtes de Blaye 14,5 // 85 This wine is tender on the palate, with medium body and a fruity taste. Tannins are well located. It finishes savory and spicy MARJOSSE Bordeaux rouge 15 // 86Pierre Lurton has tightened the production of Marjosse by focusing it on old vines and producing only 11000 bottles instead of 22000, in order to obtain such quality. The blend is of 60% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon, and 10% cabernet franc. The wine shows a dark red color of medium intensity, with a fresh and fruity nose that is typical of limestone-clay terroirs. Above all, it is on the palate that this wine makes a real difference, thanks to an incredible softness of pulp. The wine evolves suave and sappy with taste and coated tannins. It delivers a very good structure. MAYNE LALANDE Listrac 14,25 // 84 - 85 Showing a purple color of medium intensity with a discreet and fruity nose; this wine offers less flesh than usual on the palate and at this point is more built around flavors rather than around its body. This was probably the right decision for the vintage. It finishes over a medium length. PANIGON Médoc 14 // 84 This wine is very enjoyable on the palate, thanks to its savory character. While offering a medium body, yet overall it remains to be improved in its persistence. These are some improvements to be followed. PETRUS GAIA Bordeaux rouge 15 // 86 This is the second vintage of the estate that I have tasted and it is always very good. This estate has succeeded very rightfully in dodging the traps of the 2008 vintage. Showing a lovely color with a ripe, fruity and quite profound nose, this wine appears soft and pulpy on the palate, with a velvety and tasty body. It improves further on finish to become powerful over perfectly well coated tannins. It is good and of better quality than its classification reads on label. A nice success. PONTOISE CABARRUS Haut-Médoc 14 // 84 Is this estate starting to get reborn? At this time the nose is discreet, yet this wine performs with a more structured character than usual, and above all a riper taste than in the past. POUJEAUX Moulis 15,5 - 15,75 // 87 - 88 This is the first complete vintage that has been performed under the leadership of the new management team (Mathieu Cuvelier is also the owner of Clos Fourtet). Showing an intense color with a fruity, ripe and powerful nose, this wine appears velvety on entry. It then instantly develops fleshy over a good body presence. After the mid-palate, it finishes ascending, powerful and fat, over a very good length. Tannins are both coated and slightly austere at the same time. The structure appears very well done to me. It has a future ahead. REIGNAC (DE) Bordeaux Supérieur 15,25 - 15,5 // 87 Showing an intense dark color with a fruity, pure, ripe and fine nose, that appears particularly aromatic. This wine appears mellow, savory and very, very fruity on the palate. I am stricken by the lack of wood or by a more nuanced woody expression than usual, which suits me better. Here, fatness and suavity give this wine some Syrah and Southern characteristics. It finishes dense, long and coated. It makes no doubt that this is a great wine location. SAINTE LUCE BELLEVUE Premières Côtes de Blaye 14,75 // 85 - 86 This is a new wine. It is elaborated by the wife of Mr. Valette from Clos Puy Arnaud. Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity, ripe and fresh nose, it performs very well structured on the palate, built around softness, flesh and aromatic vibrancy, with no tannic overweigh. This wine is savory from the mid-palate, then finishes over a precise texture and coated tannins, with a very enjoyable length. This is an approach of precision that needs to be followed. Best regards from Bordeaux,Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use brief portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, Quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

2008 Futures live

Bordeaux Futures 2008: Results (Part 14)

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