Bordeaux Futures 2008: Results (Part 1)

2008 Bordeaux futures: PreambleWhat’s New: Cheval Blanc & Petit ChevalQuiz First Report (April 1st, 2009)2008 BORDEAUX FUTURES: PREAMBLE The 2008 vintage in Bordeaux will mark the history and thoughts about tasting by taking the opposite stand on what every consumers are likely to believe: wine is good only if the summer is hot. Yet, while this vintage is very heterogeneous, Bordeaux has produced some very good red wines. Last December, I wrote “Don’t be afraid to believe in your taste buds!” in my chronicle which described my tasting of the first lots of 2008. Appearing intensely colored, of medium aromatic intensity, rather fleshy and rich in alcohol levels; these wines offer tannins with no greenness and with taste and the best ones prove to be powerful; only the best ones. Usually, when the month of August lacks heat, it creates a void on the mid-palate and a general deficit of structure. While 2008s are not as full as the great vintages (2008 is no 2005), the mid-palates of the best wines are not eclipsed. As for the length on finish, which is traditionally generated by late ripening varietals, it shows presence. Why is that? -The first reason is luck. Nobody would have bet on a late season even more beautiful than during 2007. And this, all the more that on September 13th, everyone thought they would be making a vintage like 1992. -The second reason is due to the hard work of the estates. Viticulture has never been more right than today - The third reason is due to a better understanding of what are the vines’ needs to produce excellent grapes. On that topic, it is necessary to differentiate the presence of heat and drought. Based on the results of my tastings, it is likely that vines can relatively do without the former and far less without the latter. IS DROUGHT MORE IMPORTANT THAN HEAT? Seen from Paris or elsewhere on a computer screen, it wasn’t hot in Bordeaux during the 2008 summer. Seen from the field, July 2008 was one of the driest months of July of these past few years. Similar to July 2005. Gardeners experienced it, and so did observers who were in the vineyards. (Read the Sovivins report which talks about defoliation at the end of August – Note: having the leaves falling off the vines) Since 2003, I hear Denis Dubourdieu speaking about the impact of this factor (read his lovely report about the 2008 vintage). When soil’s drought comes immediately before the change in color of the grapes (véraison), the vine stops feeding its leaves and starts taking care of its reproduction, therefore of its fruits. This message delivered by nature to the vines induces what specialists call “water stress”. Without this state of stress, vines would keep on growing and would not be able to produce concentrated grapes that are responsible for great vintages. Paul Pontallier at château Margaux, and Jean-Michel Laporte at La Conseillante both mentioned this to explain the surprising result they found in the glass. This observation puts an accent on the importance of the month of July in the growing cycle. And July 2008 seems to have played the role that a lot of people have been allocating until now to the month of August. Of course, with a hotter month of August, results would have been worthy of an exceptional vintage. VITICULTURE IS NOT THE SAME TODAY AS IT WAS BEFORE 2000 While the average observer doesn’t see any impact of the drought in wines, neither does he directly perceive the effects of viticulture. Last year, I was writing that from now on, I considered that men’s work plays the role of a second terroir. Since 2001, these transformations have been both raising the quality level and diminishing the notion of vintage at the same time: Gaps between vintages are being reduced. Instead of talking about small and great vintages, what I observe in the glass got me thinking in terms of different kinds of "good". From now on, good represents the common denominator. The rest, which is not always noticeable by everyone, appears to me as a variable in expression. The general public knows nothing about these improvements. It is quite likely that merchants always use similar tools to sell, make people dream or increase prices. 2008 might be a vintage where merchants will be lacking speech: this is another reason to change. The discrimination based on the vintage or even the terroir only exists when the work of men is limited to a minimum. In such case, nature makes the difference, and so does the terroir. When men reinvest into viticulture, the part left to the usual discrimination tools is been lowered. These tools were relevant in a given context, they are less so today. For instance, since 2001, a lot of estates have changed the height of the foliage in the vines (vine’s trellising). A higher quantity of leaves raises the richness of sugars and therefore increases the natural alcohol content of the wines. (See the trellising policy that has implemented at Chateau Lagrange in Saint Julien). The vine’s trellising also favors the ripeness of grapes’ skins. It enables producing softer tannins and richer wines. Such viticulture allows anticipating on the negative effects of an adverse climatology. It has a real power: a buffer power of the climate effects, which is similar to the one granted to great terroirs in their water management ability. Thanks to the foliage, water also evaporates from the soil (a.k.a evapotranspiration). In 2008, evapotranspiration has also played its role in the setup of a “water stress” in the vineyards. Of course, getting a beautiful late season was necessary to reach complete ripeness. In 2007, September had saved the year. Nevertheless, 2007 wines did not have the density of the 2008s: Neither during the month of July or August did the vines have experienced a “water stress”. In the Médoc, one of the consequences of such careful viticulture is the increase of the proportion of cabernet sauvignon in the blends at the expense of merlot. When farmed differently, that is in the state of the art, cabernet sauvignon takes a mellow character with volume, which has nothing to envy to merlot. It is well known, prejudices are have long lives. Yet, all the winemakers that I have met in the great terroirs say unanimously “we were not expecting this” (To relive the ambiance before the harvest, you can listen to the interviews that were made in September and October 2008 in the vineyards, those are available on my website.) Did we believe them? No! The picture of Bordeaux always trying to sell its latest vintage as the most beautiful, the most surprising, the most this, the most that, is so strong that nobody listens anymore. At the time, I have never seen so much resistance to information in wine-specialized forums. Any positive news about the 2008 Bordeaux seemed assimilated to propaganda. Clearly, people want to see a decrease in the prices of great wines! I will be publishing during the month of April a similar statistic study to the one made last year about the right price of the 2007 wines (see chronicle n°59 from May 15th, 2008). As a reminder, the results of this study will be based on a combination of actual prices, ratings from the previous vintages, and the ratings given to the wines of the 2008 vintage. By taking a look at the current evolution of the prices of the wines from the 2007 vintage (generally dropping), you will be able to note that they have moved into a price range that was indicated back at the time of last years’ study. It seems that we must always follow the market! The other remarkable fact about this 2008 vintage is regarding the date and duration of harvests as well as small yields (which will be detailed in my report from April 3rd with the first results). _______________________________________________________________ WHAT’S NEW : CHEVAL BLANC & PETIT CHEVAL At the News chapter, Cheval Blanc (17,5 // 94) joins Ausone (17,5 // 94) in my ratings. This year, it offers an unprecedented density without losing its famous perfume. Yields are down to a mere 24hl/ha. This depth is also found in Petit Cheval (16,5 // 90), the best I have ever tasted as future. Its construction has no faults and it offers an aromatic class that makes it one of the most hedonistic wines of the vintage. Those of you who do not wish to wait Cheval Blanc for 15 to 20 years will need to grab it. (Detailed tasting notes to follow) _______________________________________________________________ QUIZ Speaking about a deficient month of August, below is the description of the growing cycle of a well-known vintage. Which year is this about? Flowering was uniform between the end of May and early June. July : Very hot, with thunderstorms. August : The véraison was very heterogeneous. Cabernet sauvignon kept some green grapes for a long time. Sunshine was below average. At the time of half-véraison, the concentration of sugars was below average and the acidity levels on par with the previous twenty years average. September: During the first week, a delay in ripening is observed compared to hot vintages. This delay is very worrying given how large is the crop. Then, weather became hot and sunny and the ripening process maid up for the delay. Important rains appeared from the third week of September. To be continued! Next report on Friday, April 3rd. I will be back with you Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use brief portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, Quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

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Bordeaux Futures 2008: Results (Part 1)

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