Bordeaux Futures 2008: Results (Part 3)

2008 Bordeaux: Synthesis of the climate conditionsPrice: the 2008 futures campaign is launchedThoughtsSaint-Emilion (part 2) - 41 tasting notesThird Report (April 6th, 2009) 2008 BORDEAUX: SYNTHESIS OF THE CLIMATE CONDITIONS The 2008 vintage in Bordeaux is a late harvest which experienced multiple viticulture accidents before finishing its ripening through a very lovely Indian summer. April Early April; on the 7th to be precise, frost touched a lot of winemaking regions and more specifically Sauternes, Barsac, Graves and Pessac Léognan, thus strongly reducing potential production in these appellations. Yields are a mere 3hl/ha at chateau Nairac. Therefore, there will be very little sweet and dry white wines this year in Bordeaux. Yet, this month received twice more rain than average and was less sunny. This humidity was very conducive to a surge of mildew. Some have lost part of their harvest. June Until June, spring and the beginning of summer were both fresh and rainy, thus causing some delay in flowering and even impacting its success. Some coulure and particularly a lot of millerandage were witnessed on old vines of merlots that got hit by viruses. These two climate accidents did strongly contribute to reduce the yields. Given the climate conditions of the middle of the summer, vineyard workers could only be glad of these low yields. (This vintage couldn’t have been able to ripen a harvest of large volume). July The month was dry, as much as 2005 and sunnier than average. That situation did favor water stress on the best soils. August The sunshine was 20% lower than average (only 226 hours compared to an average of 243 hours). The average of the highest temperatures of the month evaluated at 22.2°C stayed below the average of the last 20 years (26.6°C) September Weather became hot and dry after September 13th and this until October 19th when the first frosts arrived. The remarkable element was the alternation of sunny weathers and cold nights. This nightly freshness preserved grapes against attacks from rot. It is probable that such alternation of temperatures, which is closer to a continental climate than an oceanic climate, did favor the development of flavor precursors in the grapes. Nevertheless, I was expecting to find even more aromatic dry white wines than I did. October During the month of October, very cool nightly temperatures had some people say that grapes were experiencing cold maceration on the vines. RIPENING OR CONCENTRATION The question is been asked when the wind blowing down from the Northeast had contributed to dry the grapes or even to dehydrate those in a similar situation to the 1996 vintage. At the time, Christian Moueix did not share the enthusiasm of the Medocan people for that vintage due to such dehydration. For some observers, when daily temperatures are below 25° C, ripeness is not possible. Others on the contrary estimate that it is the cessation of life that stops the progress of ripeness. Today, I am happy to taste some wines made from late harvested grapes, which no doubt proves that ripeness was obtained, eventhough it took a long time to be achieved. November It is the first time that I have seen people to pick red wines during November. You will note that these operations took place on late ripening terroirs. In 2004, I had already tasted some cabernet sauvignon at Pavie Macquin and Fleur Cardinale that had been harvested during the last week of October. In 2008, Fleur Cardinale has beaten this record by ending their harvest on November 13th. _________________________________________________________________ PRICE: THE 2008 FUTURES CAMPAIGN IS LAUNCHED Tonight Angelus has launched the futures campaign by offering its wine at a price 40% lower than in 2007, or 70 euros (VAT exc.) This was the public price of the 2004 vintage. You can search my wine reviews database in order to define the quality price ratio of that offer. We will get echoes of that first market release from buyers on Wednesday. _________________________________________________________________ THOUGHTS In 2008, the general small yield benefits inducing some dense and more complete wines. In contrast, it does not encourage owners to perform strong selections for fear of losing volume. How will the economic situation weigh on these choices? _________________________________________________________________ I arrive at the end of all my tastings. This morning I went to Léoville Las Cases. I hoped that something “extra” would happen over anything I have tasted in the Médoc, but that feeling did not come. I have tasted all the greatest wines, with exception to Christian Moueix’ set of Pomerol wines. I will do that on Wednesday. To date, the 2008 vintage is a more favorable vintage to the right bank than the left bank. Pomerol triumphs (Just as a reminder, I did taste very well Merlot and Cabernet franc varietals from Trotanoy before blending), Saint-Emilion follows, bringing in its wake some great satellites, especially in the Côtes de Castillon appellation. On the left bank, my preference goes to the growths of Pessac-Léognan. In this not very aromatic vintage, their nose is more fragrant than those of wines of the Medoc. Everywhere else, it's on a case-by-case basis. I repeat, the heterogeneity is extreme. Many classified growths have stumbled this year. On the other side, what a pleasure to see the mid-range growths or the outsiders confirm their willingness to exceed their limits by pushing further the envelope. They risked a lot to perform better. Here is the second report on Saint-Emilion, the third will be published on Wednesday. _________________________________________________________________BALESTARD LA TONNELLE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing a lovely dark and intense red color, with a fruity and very ripe nose, perhaps almost too ripe? Rounded and tasty on the palate, this wine offers lovely aromas and nice tannins on finish, with good length. BARDE HAUT St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,75 - 16 // 88 Showing a lovely intense color with a fruity and aromatic nose. Very lovely on entry, the wine appears pulpy, then develops aromatic, very fruity, both tensed and fat at the same time. It finishes tasty with coated tannins. Pleasurable. BELLEFONT BELCIER St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing a lovely intense color, with a fruity nose of medium aromatic intensity. Slender-shaped and finely fleshy, this wine delivers taste on the mid-palate. It finishes with well-coated and aromatic tannins, followed by a good length. BERGAT St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a discreet, spicy and fruity nose. Fruity and tasty on the palate, this wine offers a medium body with slightly vivid yet tasty tannins on finish. Medium length. CANON LA GAFFELIERE St-Emilion Grand Cru 16,25 // 89 Showing a lovely intense color with a fruity nose of ripe type and some vanilla. Lovely on entry, the wine appears pulpy and suave. It develops aromatic with good body and above all, great quality of tannins. Melting on finish over a distinguished whole despite not offering a very vibrant fruit at this time. Good length. CAP DE MOURLIN St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,5 // 85 This wine shows a lovely color with a nose of oxidized type. Tender and light on the palate. CHAUVIN St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 Showing a dark red color of medium intensity with a fruity ripe nose of medium aromatic intensity. Slightly missing on entry, this wine appears fruitier and seductive on the mid-palate. It finishes enjoyable, yet lacking power over a medium length. CLOS DE L'ORATOIRE St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,5 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark red color of medium intensity with a fruity, ripe and discreet nose. The wine appears tender and tasty on the palate, slightly lacking body. Tannins are fruity and coated. It finishes of medium length. CLOS DES JACOBINS St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,25 // 87 Showing a dark and vivid color of medium intensity with a pure nose of ripe fruits. The wine appears finely mellow on the palate and nuanced in its tannic foundations, offering a new and successful softness. It finishes coated and of medium length. CLOS SAINT MARTIN St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,25 // 87Three times I found it below my expectations. Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity nose of medium aromatic intensity. The wine appears tender on entry, even too much. It then develops savory and juicy with taste yet of medium body, which I regret. I was expecting more depth in the persistence. CORBIN St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,75 – 16 // 88My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaign. Since 2004, this wine has been raising with a gain of a quarter point (on the 20 scale system) every new vintage during my tastings as futures. Something is going on at Corbin! I invite amateurs to follow this estate quite closely. Its texture changes and its aromas are getting more precise. It escapes more and more from the image of sandy soil based wines that are light and easy, which image used to be associated for a long time to the “district of the Corbins” in Saint-Emilion. This is a great success of the vintage and of the estate. 2008 is in the breed of the 2005 vintage at this property, with a tad less power, but appearing so seductive. Showing an intense dark and lovely color, with a nose that is distinguished from its peers by an intense, aromatic, fruity, fresh, ripe and finely creamy character. One could believe that this comes from Pomerol. Succulent on entry, the wine develops creamy with plenty of taste on the mid-palate. Overall, tannins are coated and prove to be fine on finish. This wine is juicy and very hedonistic as a whole. Bravo! CORBIN MICHOTTE St-Emilion Grand Cru 13,5 // 82 This wine lacks body. COUVENT DES JACOBINS St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,75 – 16 // 88The last vertical tasting that I have performed of this estate showed that since 2000, this estate has changed status and discreetly progress in quality. Showing a lovely dark and vivid color of good intensity, with a fine, fruity and ripe nose that comes along with a hint of tar. Very different from its peers, this wine appears finely fat, very fruity and aromatic on the palate, offering a lovely tactile softness. The finish is delicately coated and full of flavors, followed by a very good length, a tad firm. A blend of 85 % merlot and 15 % cabernet franc. The natural yield before selection is a low 27 hl/ha (This estate received hail during July 2008).DASSAULT St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,25 – 15,5 // 87 Showing a lovely dark color with a discreet and fruity nose, this wine appears rounded and pleasant on the palate with medium body. It evolves melting and slightly discreet in its overall profile and finishes over a medium length. I had higher expectations. DESTIEUX St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 - 87I do not find in this 2008 the profile of the latest vintages, which are deeper and fatter. Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity and quite discreet nose. Tender and enjoyable on the palate, this wine appears more pulpy than powerful. That is what is different this year in this usually very dense estate. It is slightly short on finish. FLEUR CARDINALE St-Emilion Grand Cru 16,25 // 89 This vintage is on par with the consistent quality offered by the estate since the 2002 vintage. The end of the growing season has particularly benefited to this late ripening terroir. The last picking of cabernet franc took place on November 13th. 2008 is a particularly aromatic vintage that proves to be very fruity and smells of ripe fruits with a creamy touch. Savory and chubby on entry, the wine develops with taste as well as a powerful and velvety structure. Tannins are particularly noble. It offers a very lovely finish that reveals quite complex. This is a wine that delivers both presence and gratification. New : This year, Dominique Decoster has decided to divide the winemaking of plots between cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. As a result, the same plots were fermented into seven different vats instead of three. Since 2007, this wine is aged in 90% new wood barrels instead of 100%. This may refine tannin's granulation.FONPLEGADE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 Showing a lovely intense color with a discreet, fruity and solar nose. Here is one of the most well defined palates that I have known from this estate. More specifically, it doesn't have in this vintage the stiffness on finish that used to lower my rating until now. Quite the opposite, this wine reveals itself all in pulp and softness. Even the fruit appears less dull. I can't wait to taste it again during barrel ageing. FONROQUE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,25 – 15,5 // 87This is a very different wine from the last vintage and even from other previous vintages. Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a very fruity nose. The wine distinguishes itself through a tender and aromatic character, which appears without any trace of tough tannins whatsoever. This 2008 is built on softness, with a slightly flowing characteristic and soft warmth that evoke Pomerol. I believe that biodynamic farming has really transformed this estate. FRANC MAYNE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 Showing a lovely intense dark color with a fruity nose of medium aromatic intensity. Tender on entry, then suave on the mid-palate, this wine offers a medium body. It finishes a bit too quickly and its length remains medium. GRAND CORBIN St-Emilion Grand Cru 13,75 // 83 This wine appears fluid on the palate and has a very resinous nose. Curious. GRAND PONTET St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,75 // 88 Showing a lovely intense and youthful color with a fruity, pure, aromatic and quite noble nose. The wine appears quite seductive on entry from the precision of its texture, then develops aromatic, juicy, savory with taste and a constant softness all along the tasting. This is delicious, both ethereal and with presence at the same time. Such style is induced by the quality of the blend that is composed of 25% of cabernet franc. HAUT CORBIN St-Emilion Grand Cru 14 // 84 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a rather discreet and fruity nose. It appears tender and slightly thin on the palate. This is an enjoyable and easy wine. HAUT SARPE St-Emilion Grand Cru // 84 - 85 Showing a lovely intense color with a fruity and slightly resinous nose. Tender on entry, this wine then appears mellow yet a bit eclipsed on the mid-palate. It offers a medium length despite remaining enjoyable. L'ARROSÉE Saint-Emilion 15,25 // 87 Showing a dark color of good intensity with a nose particularly aromatic that appears suave, fruity and floral. Tender on the palate, this wine offers a slightly loosen yet very enjoyable texture. All things being considered, it still lacks depth on finish. LA CLOTTE St-Emilion Grand Cru 16 – 16,25 // 88 - 89My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaign.This wine is a revolution at La Clotte. After having appreciated it a lot during one tasting, I decided to go visit the estate in order to better understand what was going on. Indeed this success is not the effect of a sample. Until now, I found this wine to be lacking precision in its texture but was fascinated by the aromatic part of its taste, which was translating the origin of a great wine location. Madam Nelly Moulierac told me that in 2008, it was the first time that cabernets francs and cabernets sauvignons got fermented in separate vats. Also for the first time, Mrs Moulierac has wished to wait until complete ripeness of the grapes, eventhough it was “terrible for the nerves”. La Clotte is a tiny estate of 4ha and for her, this is the first vintage where parcel based winemaking has been respected. The final blend is made from 80% merlot, 15% cabernet franc, and 5% cabernet sauvignon. The natural alcohol level rates 13°7 and yields are of 30 hl/ha. Showing an intense dark red color with a nose that appears very fruity, pure and fine. This is a precise that I have never seen before at this estate. Pulpy on the palate, the wine offers a refined touch and taste with an exuberant character that is very typical to Saint-Emilion wines. It evolves with good density and finishes long over particularly well-coated and very aromatic tannins. It is very suave overall. The imprecision and approximations from the previous vintages are gone! Finally, this 2008 provides the taste of a quite unique location. It performs better than both the 2003 and 2005 vintages. LA DOMINIQUE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 I have tasted this wine three times with consistent mixed feeling. Following last vintage's progress, I was expecting more body. In fact, the wine drops in its persistence. LA SERRE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 Showing an intense dark color with an aromatic, fruity, ripe and fine nose. Tender, juicy and enjoyable, this wine is frustrating because such aromatic qualities makes me wish to have more on the palate. This wine remains a bit light. LA TOUR FIGEAC St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,25 – 15,5 // 87 Showing a lovely color with a pure and aromatic nose, it appears tender, fruity, caressing and savory on the palate while sometimes it seemed that it was slightly lacking body. In some other tastings, I did not experience that feeling. The wine finishes of medium length. LANIOTE St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,5 // 85 - 86 Showing an intense dark color with a fruity nose that also smells of resin, this wine appears tender and slightly flowing, with apparent tannins in the persistence. LARCIS DUCASSE St-Emilion Grand Cru 16,5 // 90My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaign. This vintage is a great success of the estate. Showing a lovely color, it mostly distinguishes itself from its peers by a very aromatic, pure, noble and quite deep nose. Lovely on entry, this wine appears finely pulpy where it offers a great quality of touch on the palate. At the same time, the overall expression remains discreet, yet delivering good length and a refined grain of tannins. Good persistence with a subtle taste. Tasted three times always with consistent pleasure. New : a “pigeage” system has been setup this year for the 2008 vintage in the cellars that is similar to the one also introduced at Pavie Macquin.LARMANDE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,5 – 15,75 // 87 - 88 This wine is a great success of the estate. Showing a lovely, dark and intense color with a fruity, fresh, ripe and precise nose. This wine is juicy, pulpy and very tasty, appearing aromatic and fleshy, with fat on the mid-palate. Tannins are perfectly coated and it finishes spicy and enjoyable with moderate aromatic intensity. I can feel a lot of care and meticulous work with a nice result. LAROQUE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,25 15,5 // 87 Showing a lovely dark color with a slightly vivid yet very fruity and still youthful nose expression. It smells of Cabernet franc and its finely creamy character. As usual, the presentation of this wine on the palate is rather slender than wide, developing with plenty of tenderness. It picks up more flesh on the mid-palate while taking a particularly creamy touch despite revealing an elongated style. This is a very special and different wine from others. Medium length. LAROZE St-Emilion Grand Cru 16 // 88 - 89 Guy Meslin continues his rise in quality by offering us a 2008 vintage from the same breed of the 2005 and 2003. Showing a lovely intense color, with a nose that is distinguished by a very fruity presence along with a creamy and floral character. Caressing on entry, the wine then becomes silky, pulpy and picks up volume on the mid-palate. It progresses with plenty of taste and a very ripe raspberry character, going crescendo towards a long, suave and complex finish. This is a wine that reveals a lovely aromatic and tannic profile on the palate with no tannic harshness whatsoever. T he estate was impacted by hail on July 28th, which caused a very strong heterogeneous situation on a vine grape basis. Mr. Meslin did indicate to me that he has spent 85 000 euros only to select the best berries on the grapes. Also for the first time, 15% of the wine has been sold in bulk. The final yield is 28 hl/ha. A Blend of 80 % merlot and 20 % cabernet franc, the alcohol level is of 13.2°.LE PRIEURÉ St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 Showing a particularly intense color with a fruity, pure and ripe nose that smells of cherry, raspberry and vanilla; this wine appears tender, aromatic and fruity, of average pulp, but with such a nose, I was expecting a much more fleshy palate. LES GRANDES MURAILLES St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,5 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fine, fruity, smoky and subtle nose, smelling of mulberry. Slightly thin on the palate, nevertheless this wine evokes a great location through its great taste. Its body collapse in the persistence. Medium length. LES GRAVIÈRES Cuvée prestige St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 Showing a dark color with a fruity nose of smoky accents. This wine appears savory with a taste of fresh fruits and a fine pulp on the palate, of melting character. It remains of medium power on finish, yet performing both tasty and very good. LYNSOLENCE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing a purple color with a fruity, aromatic nose, and a cherry character. Finely pulpy and very hedonistic from entry, the wine develops aromatic, with very fruity and slightly woody flavors, body presence and coated tannins. It finishes over a good length. A success. MOULIN DU CADET St-Emilion Grand Cru 14 // 84 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a rather discreet nose, this wine appears caressing, fruity and slightly light yet savory on the palate. An original and pleasant violet characteristic pops up on finish. PETIT FAURIE DE SOUTARD St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,5 // 85 - 86 Under the impulse of the Cap de Mourlin family, this estate has reborn, delivering a more precise and very fruity aromatic character. Nevertheless, on the palate, this wine still offers a little body, appearing tender, enjoyable yet stopping over a vivid and a bit simple characteristic. That being said, 2008 appears to be one of the very best vintages made at this estate. ROL VALENTIN St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing a dark color of good intensity with a fruity, pure and aromatic nose. Tender and suave, the wine melts on the palate before finishing over coated tannins, of medium length. Overall, it is more charming and distinguished rather than powerful. SOUTARD St-Emilion Grand Cru 13 // 80 This wine disappointed me. Tasted twice and ten days apart, with an unusual earthy character and a slightly vivid structure. I am all the more surprised that the same team than Larmande makes this wine, which in turn is a great success while it comes from a lesser terroir. To be continued! Next report on Wednesday, April 8th.Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use brief portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, Quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

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Bordeaux Futures 2008: Results (Part 3)

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