Bordeaux Futures 2008: Results (Part 7)

The value of the 2008 vintageAbout the release price of Château LatourAbout the wines of Graves and Pessac LéognanEnglish / French editionsGraves and Pessac Léognan red wines (part one)Left bank First Growths: Haut-Brion, Margaux, Latour, Lafite Rothschild, Mouton Rothschild and their second label plus La Mission Haut Brion. Seventh report (April 15th, 2009) VALUE OF THE 2008 VINTAGE As you now know, 2008 is a very heterogeneous vintage. In fact, it remains difficult to prepare a synthesis. Take that in terms of regions, Pomerol dominates. One will also remember that in terms of discrimination, the work of men as well as the personal application played a major role. I am often amazed by the wines from the mid range, which are impeccably made. I found some of them in each appellation, as you saw in Pomerol and St. Emilion. You will also discover these within unclassified growths from Pessac Léognan and Graves. Luchey Halde and Seguin jostle hierarchies. I had higher expectations for wines from the top level. Their performance has undoubtedly found a limit imposed by the nature of the 2008 vintage. To determine the tasting value of this vintage, below is a comparison of the number of ratings above or equal to 16.75 (on the 20 points scale) or 91 (on the 100 point scale), assigned by vintage and to red wines only (thus excluding dry and sweet white wines). 2008 : 27 wines 2007 : 19 wines 2006 : 30 wines 2005 : 55 wines 2004 : 24 wines 2003 : 22 wines 2002 : 20 wines In general, for great wines, the 2008 vintage is ranking between 2006 and 2004. However, the highest level in 2008 is limited to a rating of 17.5 // 94. It does neither reach top ratings from 2006 nor the 2004 vintage which were estimated at 18 // 95 during futures, or even that of 2002 (17.75 – 18 // 95) where Ausone, Lafite, Latour and Palmer already showed brilliant. In the evening, you will find inside the wine reviews database the 202 reviews already published on the 2008 Bordeaux wines. With the ongoing release of prices, the database will automatically give you the value of the quality-price ratio for each wine. (By default sorted results of a search into the wine reviews database are ordered by QPR; when price exists) This is not a gadget. If one considers that the average quality level keeps on increasing, the discriminating factor to choose a wine becomes the price, now affecting more than the vintage itself. ABOUT THE RELEASE PRICE OF CHÂTEAU LATOUR 2008 The release price from the estate is 110 euros exc. VAT. Negociants are currently offering it at 140 euros exc. VAT. It makes no doubt that this is the best price currently available for any vintages of Château Latour on the market. Today, whether from merchants or on auction, there is nothing available below 200 euros inc. VAT of very good quality from the past 20 vintages of Château Latour with exception to the 2008. ABOUT THE WINES FROM THE GRAVES & PESSAC LEOGNAN One of the mysteries of this vintage is regarding the discretion of the nose of most wines. In principle, we consider the alternation of cool nights and sunny days at the end of the ripening cycle, as very favorable to the development of aroma precursors. I have already said it, I do not in practice witness the effect of this theory in this vintage. Is it because the grapes have been harvested beyond the academic cycle of 111 days to reach complete ripeness? Is it because those grapes have suffered? Is it because the futures presentation of these wines has taken further delay compared to previous years? (as grapes were picked later in season and were put later in barrels than other vintages) Everywhere there are a few wines to be described as aromatic, but the destination of choice for the intensity of the nose at this stage of tastings, is the Graves and Pessac Léognan region. I think the red wines are more aromatic because those are made on soils that are favorable for dry white wines. ENGLISH / FRENCH VERSIONS I see some wine merchants who are subscribers of the French version of my publications translating my tasting notes in English. What a lost of time! Any paid subscriber have access to both French and English versions of the reports directly on the website and find the same reports accurately translated by my team. I pay specific attention to the quality of my publications in English. Any remarks and feedbacks are welcome! ________________________________________________________________ GRAVES AND PESSAC LEOGNAN RED WINES (part one)BARET Pessac-Léognan 14,25 // 84 - 85 Showing a color of medium intensity with a discreet, fruity and vivid nose. The wine performs soft and enjoyable on the palate with a lack of power. It is a pity because it seems that this location hides a very high potential. BRANON Pessac-Léognan 16,75 - 17 // 91 - 92 Showing a dark purple color of good intensity with a fine, fruity and fresh nose that reminds me of the characteristics of Les Carmes Haut Brion. This wine is really distinguished and appears suave on entry, performing very fruity, mellow and also tannic on the mid-palate before finishing in a great distinction of aromas and texture, both suave and long. Delicious. BROWN Pessac-Léognan 15 // 86 Showing a dark and vivid red color of medium intensity with a fine, aromatic and fruity nose; this wine performs deliciously on the palate through its fruitiness, the softness of its flesh and its overall balance. It finishes of medium length with fine tannins. CLOS FLORIDÈNE Graves 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity, aromatic and floral nose, this wine appears elongated on the palate, very, very fruity, with a soft touch and medium body. It finishes slightly austere. DE FRANCE Pessac-Léognan 14,5 // 85 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a discreet nose, this wine appears slightly austere on the palate, with more squared tannins than usual. It might come from a temporary wood absorption at the beginning of its barrel aging. DOMAINE PASSION HAUT BRION Pessac-Léognan 15,75 - 16 // 88The estate is extremely tiny, located behind Haut Brion. Its particularity is to have a majority of its blend of Cabernet Franc. Showing a purple color of good intensity with a fruity and fresh nose that evokes Les Carmes Haut Brion, this wine offers some very original resin characteristics. It performs velvety and aromatic, of complex taste. The wine develops over a very lovely touch with fat before finishing on smoke family aromas with a fine grain of tannins. It is very good. HAURA Graves 15 // 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity, animal and very “graves” like aromatic profile. This wine melts on the palate, performing ethereal, particularly fruity and delicious on finish. Tannins are slightly apparent on finish. When vines become older, this estate will join the elite of the Graves and Pessac Léognan appellations. HAUT BERGEY Pessac-Léognan 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing an intense dark red color with a fruity, ripe and discreet nose, this wine appears rounded, fruity and tasty on the palate. It melts and shows some austerity on finish, of medium and fruity length. LA CHAPELLE de LA MISSION HAUT BRION Pessac-Léognan 15,25 // 87 Showing a vivid red color of medium intensity that is not blackened as many other wines. Its nose is aromatic and classic, without a specific search for a creamy character. This wine appears juicy and particularly fruity, both suave and rounded with taste on the palate, offering presence and fine tannins. It is a delicious wine that finishes over a fine licorice characteristic in its persistence. It could be drunk by the gallon, given how tasty it is! A blend of 39% merlot, 56% cabernet sauvignon and 5% cabernet franc. Alcohol level: 13.5° - pH of 3.72 - Total acidity 3.1LA MISSION HAUT BRION Pessac-Léognan 15,75 - 16 // 88 2008 is not a favorable vintage for La Mission Haut Brion. Why ? Well, after so many tastings of the wines of this estate (Among others, I have performed 3 vertical tastings of LMHB in the past 3 years) I come to the conclusion that this estate is more successful when the early and mid summer are very sunny rather than with an exceptional late season such as during 2002, 2004, 2007 and 2008. Showing a lovely dark color of medium intensity with a fresh, fruity and aromatic nose of vanilla character. This wine starts nicely on entry then quickly becomes discreet and tasty but overall not very expressive and not very long. I have waited for this wine without finding it! Yields are of 49 hl/ha. It is a blend of 51% cabernet sauvignon, 43% merlot and 6% cabernet franc. Alcohol level: 13.8° - pH of 3.68 - Total acidity 3.3LARRIVET HAUT BRION Pessac-Léognan 15 // 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a creamy, fruity, fresh and smoky nose, this wine appears mellow, developing fat, with a creamy touch on the palate and a more fruity profile than usual. It delivers an aromatic finish and offers less austere tannins than in previous vintages. This refinement is certainly due to the willingness of its new technical manager: Mr. Bruno Lemoine. LE SARTRE Pessac-Léognan 14,25 // 84 - 85 This estate is on the rise. It shows a 2008 with a soft pulp, some taste, and well coated tannins. Year over year this property has been gaining precision, purity and tannic definition. LE THIL COMTE CLARY Pessac-Léognan 15,25 // 87 Showing a black color and a discreet nose, this wine appears slightly marked by the presence of lies. It will change. Fleshy and very aromatic on the palate, it develops melting over a good body presence. It offers a smoky taste that is very Pessac-Léognan typed. The wine finishes enjoyable and always aromatic. LES CARMES HAUT BRION Pessac-Léognan 15,5 - 15,75 // 87 - 88 As often, this wine offers a vibrant nose with no equal. Smelling of flowers, raspberries and some smoky and soft characteristics. It appears finely pulpy on the palate, with a lovely touch, taste and a medium body. Should it had been more sustained, this wine would have no competition in its appellation. LIBER PATER Graves 15,5 // 87 - 88This estate confirms its status since my discovery last year. Showing a lovely, intense, dark color with a fruity and aromatic nose that smells of resin, this wine behaves suave and silky on the palate, developing over a very lovely fine and fat touch, with coated tannins. It finishes with very good length. A nice success. Alcohol level: 13.9°. Potential Tannin Level (IPT): 100 (which is very high).LUCHEY HALDE Pessac-Léognan 15,5 - 15,75 // 87 - 88 Showing a dark color of good intensity with a nose of a very particular aromatic class that appears fruity, fresh, fine and subtle. This wine performs ample on entry with an instantly fascinating quality of touch. Both silky and melting, it mixes some noble tactile sensations with vibrant fruit on the palate. Very hedonistic, it finishes long and perfumed over fine tannins. This is very good and well done. MEJEAN Graves 15,25 // 87 Showing an intense dark color with a fruity yet also discreet nose. This wine appears both suave and silky on the palate, developing with taste over a good body. Its taste is elongated on finish over coated and quite fine tannins. This estate is in full rise. 2008 might be the best wine I have ever tasted at this property to date. MIREBEAU Pessac-Léognan 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 This wine is all in lace, appearing aromatic, very fruity, fresh and suave. It offers a medium body and could be slightly fatter on finish. It performs of medium length. I recommend it to amateurs who like to stay away from tannic red Bordeaux wines. PICQUE CAILLOU Pessac-Léognan 15 // 86 Showing a dark color with a slightly discreet, ripe, fruity and floral nose. This wine appears denser than usual on the palate with enjoyable flavors and coated tannins on finish. Medium length. SEGUIN Pessac-Léognan 15,75 // 88 Showing a black color with a fresh, very fruity and yet discreet nose. Very mellow, hedonistic, aromatic and melting on the palate, this wine is very well endowed and offers both texture and a soft flesh. On finish it appears impossible not to swallow. Its meticulous and precise character forces admiration! _________________________________________________________________ LEFT BANK FIRST GROWTHS: HAUT-BRION, MARGAUX, LATOUR, LAFITE ROTHSCHILD, MOUTON ROTHSCHILD AND THEIR SECOND LABEL PLUS LA MISSION HAUT BRION CARRUADES DE LAFITE Pauillac 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing a lovely vivid red color of good intensity with a fruity yet discreet nose; this wine performs soft and suave on the palate, with a vibrant fruit and refined tannins. It finishes with a nice length. It is good! DUHART MILON ROTHSCHILD Pauillac 15,75 // 88 Showing a lovely dark color of good intensity with a pure and very fruity nose; this wine performs finely fleshy on entry, then develops over a good density, becoming savory before finishing mellow over a good tannic envelope and a medium length. LE CLARENCE HAUT BRION Pessac-Léognan 15,5 - 15,75 // 87 - 88 Showing a lovely dark purple color with a fruity and fresh nose, this wine offers a refined touch, then developing aromatic and suave on the mid-palate. Its body is very well structured and it finishes finely aromatic and tasty, of medium length. A blend of 45% merlot, 41% cabernet sauvignon and 14% cabernet franc. Alcohol level: 13.6° - pH of 3.71 - Total acidity 3.3 HAUT BRION Pessac-Léognan 17 // 92 It is incredible to taste this 2008 Haut Brion side by side to La Mission Haut Brion given how different profiles these two wines offer in this vintage. Showing a lovely dark color with black hues. Above all, its nose is distinguished by a good aromatic intensity, appearing both subtle and fresh. Tender on entry, the wine behaves slightly discreet on the mid-palate, and then develops very aromatic, fruity and juicy over a good presence and without any austerity whatsoever. This Haut Brion finishes very long. In short, it can be described as a pure, caressing and long wine. It displays a very classic character. It is a blend of 50% cabernet sauvignon, 41% merlot and 9% cabernet franc. The alcohol level is 13.7° - Total acidity 3.4 -The pH level is 3.68 and the yields are of 45 hl/ha.LAFITE ROTHSCHILD Pauillac 16,75 - 17 // 91 - 92 Showing a dark color of good intensity with a fruity and pure yet discreet nose; this wine performs velvety on entry, then develops keeping this velvet character all along the tasting. Yet, it lacks picking up power on the mid-palate. This Lafite shows tight weaving and coated tannins, it finishes over a medium length. While this wine is refined, nevertheless, more depth and volume would have been favorable! LATOUR Pauillac 17,5 // 94 Showing a dark and almost black color with a fine, fruity and floral nose, both subtle and rich in fruit. Dense from entry, it develops aromatic and fat, behaving like Ausone with the expression of Cabernet Sauvignon in addition. While melting on the mid-palate, it does not prevent it from finishing powerful over coated tannins at first then appearing more austere. It delivers good length and will need barrel ageing in order to express itself a little more. It is a blend of 94% cabernet sauvignon, 5% merlot, 0,75% cabernet franc, and a hint of 0,25% of petit verdot. The alcohol level is 13.48°. The potential tannin level is 81 (high). This Grand Vin represents a selection of 40% of the harvest. Yields are of 39 hl/ha as in 2003.LES FORTS DE LATOUR Pauillac 15,75 // 88 Showing a dark color with a fruity, fresh and discreet nose, this wine instantly develops tight and tannic on the palate. It then evolves more rounded but also austere. Obviously barrel ageing will be necessary. I did not understand why the fascinating pleasure dimension found in the Pauillac de Chateau Latour was not there in this Les Forts de Latour. MARGAUX Margaux 17,5 // 94 One should note that Château Margaux was not impacted by hail. Showing a lovely dark red and vivid color with a discreet nose, swirling is necessary to discover it more floral and aromatic as a Château Margaux wine. Superb on entry, it performs suave and almost sugary. The wine develops with plenty of taste and a remarkably fine touch. Melting, ethereal and without any trace of tannins whatsoever, it evolves always savory over some licorice and raspberry characteristics before finishing very well structured and deep for the vintage. A blend of 87% cabernet sauvignon, 1,5% cabernet franc, 1,5% petit verdot, and 10% merlot, the Grand Vin is a selection of 36% of the harvest. When taking into account what is lost during barrel ageing, it will lower this Chateau Margaux 2008 to a selection of 31% of the overall harvest. MOUTON ROTHSCHILD Pauillac 17 // 92 Showing a dark and intense color with a fruity and ripe nose that offers an aromatic character yet this fruit is slightly less vibrant than I was expecting. Soft on entry, this wine performs almost suave, and then developing both structured as well as compacted on the mid-palate. This Mouton does not reveal itself untied at this time. It finishes aromatic and fat over fine tannins and a good sappy length. It does not show as usual. Is this because of the delay in barrel ageing? At the same time last year and in the context of that vintage, the 2007 Mouton had impressed me much more. I will taste again this 2008 during the month of May. PAUILLAC 3ème vin du Château LATOUR Pauillac 15,5 - 15,75 // 87 - 88 This is a wine that is built around softness and suavity, without lacking in body presence. It offers plenty of taste on the palate and suave tannins on finish, which surprises me very favorably. Good length. PAVILLON ROUGE Margaux 16,25 // 89 Showing a lovely dark and intense color with a fruity and aromatic nose that smells of cherry and vanilla, this wine is delicious on the palate where it mixes vibrant fruit with suavity and a good body. Its silky texture is assorted with distinguished aromas. It is really difficult not to swallow this Pavillon Rouge. PETIT MOUTON DE MOUTON ROTHSCHILD Pauillac 16 // 88 – 89 Since the estate has gotten rid of its cabernet francs and their annoying behavior, its tasting has become improved. Showing a vivid red color of good intensity with a precise, fruity and smoky nose; this wine confirms its precision from the first instants on the palate. This Petit Mouton performs sappy on the mid-palate, develops aromatic over fine tannins and a good length. A success. Next report on Friday, April 17th. Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use brief portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, Quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

2008 Futures live

Bordeaux Futures 2008: Results (Part 7)

Subscribe

Subscription

Wine name	(Producer, appellation, etc.)