Bordeaux Futures 2008: Results (Part 8)

2008 Right Bank (the end)Lynch Bages Eighth report (April 17th, 2009) This report concludes my tastings of the wines form the right bank. It covers Saint Emilion and the satellite appellations. As mentioned during my introduction to the seventh report, the 2008 vintage mostly surprises me for the wines qualified to be "from the mid range" or those without any particular naming reputation. These wines behave magnificently in this vintage by improving rather than giving up their application during a time of adversity. Estates from the côtes de Castillon, with D'Aiguilhe, Clos Louie, Domaine de l'A, Joannin Bécot and Clos Puy Arnaud have produced some magnificent wines. For these estates, the challenge lies within their ability to become part of the Bordeaux wine trade system, which is particularly segregated and elitist: no classification means no reputation means no sale. Yet, these wines yield some interest from amateurs, and the leaders of these estates still need to innovate in order to become more visible. I will add to these outsiders Moulin Haut Laroque, La Sergue, La Mauriane, La Fleur de Bouard et Le Plus de La Fleur de Bouard. A number of these wines were available to be discovered by the discerning professionals who tasted at the Cercle Rive Droite. The next report covering the second part of the red wines from Pessac-Léognan and Margaux will be published on Monday April 20th. _________________________________________________________________ TASTING NOTESADAUGUSTA St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 - 15,25 // 86 - 87 This wine is made under the lead of Hubert de Bouard. Showing a dark color with a discreet nose, it appears more open on the palate, performing pulpy, fruity and melting along with a fine weaving. It evolves over a fine fatness towards an aromatic finish of quite subtle taste. AMPELIA Côtes de Castillon 14,75 // 85 - 86 This wine shows a nice color with an aromatic and rather fine nose; performing both soft and pulpy, suave and tasty on the palate, finishing over a medium power and length. BARRABAQUE Prestige Canon-Fronsac 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a discreet nose, this wine appears suave and fruity, with a medium yet aromatic body. It also finishes of medium length. BEL AIR LA ROYERE Premières Côtes de Blaye 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 This estate from Premières Côtes de Blaye is holding its very good quality in such a complicated vintage to manage. Offering an aromatic nose with a very fruity, pulpy and suave taste on the palate, I have particularly enjoyed the fact that it performed less woody than usual during this en primeur tasting. CADET PIOLA St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 This year, the presentation of this wine is different than usual. It shows more precise both in flavors and texture. Quite often, the high portion of cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc defines it as austere. In 2008, it performs pulpy and delicate on the palate, with taste and a tannic finish that has no toughness. It is a blend of 54 % merlot, 28 % cabernet sauvignon and 18 % cabernet franc.CASSAGNE HAUT CANON LA TRUFFIÈRE Canon-Fronsac 15 // 86 I have always thought that its portion of cabernet and a very favorable late season could benefit to the development of the qualities of this wine. Today, it displays a nice color, a fruity and suave nose, appearing dense, velvety, aromatic and tasty on the palate, along with some rare yet particularly pleasant mellow nuances. This wine is very enjoyable on finish and very sappy. It is good! CHADENNE Fronsac 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a vivid color of medium intensity with a floral, very fruity and precise nose that I enjoy very much, this wine confirms on the palate the precision and meticulous character of its result through a texture of quality and melting. Aromas are both fine and fruity. On the other hand, body and power remain average, which is a pity; otherwise it would clearly stand out from the crowd. CLOS CHAUMONT Premières Côtes de Bordeaux 15 // 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity, fresh and creamy nose, that smells like a Pomerol. Both ample and fat on the palate, it offers tannins that are perfectly coated with fruit along with a vibrant taste. This wine develops savory over both noble taste and tannins. For now, the new wood expression wins over on finish, yet there is a real potential in here. To be followed during barrel ageing. It is the first time that I taste this wine so well as futures. I usually found it too rustic. This wine was presented by Hubert de Bouard, who acts as consultant. CLOS LOUIE Côtes de Castillon 15,5 // 87 - 88 I did taste this wine before the malolactic fermentations were completed and found it particularly promising. While the nose will change, it already offers a fat and melting power on the palate, with plenty of fruit. This wine has a very hedonistic character and coated tannins that prove to be particularly tasty. It performs with a good presence in its foundation. This wine is made by Pascal and Sophie Lucin-Doutot. Mr Lucin is the cellar master of château Grand Pontet, classified growth of Saint Emilion. This estate represents 1 ha of very old vines of mixed malbec, merlot and cabernet franc. As in Burgundy, winemaking is made feet-crushed in open tanks. The production is of 2500 bottles. Contact: sophie.pascal.co@wanadoo.frCLOS PUY ARNAUD Côtes de Castillon 16 - 16,25 // 88 - 89This wine is presented while it has not entirely finished its malolactic fermentation. Nevertheless, I went to visit the estate and have tasted all separate lots of wines. At this time, I consider the 2008 to be superior to the very sexy 2007, and also to many other vintages from this estate, exception made to the 2005. It shows an intense color with a fruity, deep, suave and ripe nose. Tasted in the middle of an ocean of wines that are lacking precision on entry, this Clos Puy Arnaud appears very precise from entry and develops aromatic and fat, over a fine touch. It melts as a whole with grace and becomes elongated, impossible not to swallow, with fine tannins. This wine offers taste and a great sensation of precision. It is delicious. Bravo! CLOS SAINT JULIEN St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark and intense purple color with a fruity nose; this wine performs caressing and tasty on the palate, of medium body, with more apparent tannins than usual on finish, nevertheless being well coated by fruits. Barrel ageing should reveal it more. D'AIGUILHE Côtes de Castillon 15,25 // 87 Following the vertical tasting I have performed and published in my chronicles, I just want to remind readers that this estate is a serious outsider of the classified growth of Saint Emilion since 2004, when it started gaining tannic refinement. It shows a dark color and a very, very fruity and even floral nose. On the palate the wine appears rounded, tasty, fleshy with aromas. It finishes powerful and quite long. This is a great job and a lovely expression of the right bank. DALEM Fronsac 14,5 - 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a Bordeaux color of medium intensity with a discreet nose, this wine offers a suave, very fruity and slightly light palate that nevertheless appears hedonist. It finishes of medium length. DAUGAY St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,25 // 87 This is a very good saint-emilion that displays a dark color with a fruity and pure nose. Soft and coating on the palate, it offers a fruity and savory taste, with good body. This wine finishes finely aromatic over flower characteristics. Despite not being very powerful, it performs very hedonistic. DE FRANCS "Les Cerisiers" Côtes de Francs 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color with a fruity and a tad warm nose; this wine performs fleshy on the palate with successfully coated tannins. It finishes dynamic, very savory and fat with no tannic toughness. DOMAINE DE L'A Côtes de Castillon 15,75 // 88 Showing a deep dark color with a very ripe fruit of cocoa, this wine appears very pulpy on the palate, developing caressing, fruity and dense, over coated tannins. It finishes tasty with good length and each year performing more woven than during previous vintages. DOMAINE DE SABINES Lalande de Pomerol 15 // 86 Showing a dark color of good intensity, with a very aromatic nose, this wine appears mellow and aromatic on the palate, with a tender body and a precise tannic texture. It finishes over a pleasant length and medium power. This estate was purchased by the Thunevin stable in 2006 and is made from a small 1.3ha vineyard in Lalande de Pomerol. It produces about 6000 bottles. DU COURLAT Lussac-Saint-Emilion 14,25 // 84 - 85 Showing a purple color with a fruity nose, this wine appears suave and tender on the palate, with an enjoyable body and no tannic toughness. It offers medium length and stands as a reference for the appellation. DUBOIS GRIMON Côtes de Castillon 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a lovely color with a fruity and discreet nose, this wine appears fruity, elongated and tasty on the palate, of medium body. It finishes with coated tannins, but I did regret not to find in this wine the suave character that I found in Grimon. ECHO DE LYNCH BAGES Pauillac 15,25 //From the 2008 vintage, the second label from Lynch Bages, which used to be Château Haut Bages Averous has now been renamed Echo de Lynch Bages. Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity, ripe and aromatic nose; this wine performs all rounded, suave, with fruit, taste and a general hedonistic character. It finishes of medium length. FAURIE DE SOUCHARD St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,75 // 85 - 86 This wine is built around softness, with medium body, fruit and tender tannins. FONTENIL Fronsac 15,25 // 87 Showing a dark color of good intensity with an aromatic nose that offers a touch of cherry and a similar presentation to a wine with low sulfite level. Suave on entry, this wine appears rounded and tasty on the mid-palate. It evolves very fruity over a good presence of coated and aromatic tannins before finishing of medium length. GAILLARD St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,75 // 85 - 86One should note that in 2008, the three wines from Catherine Papon-Nouvel (Petit Gravey Aîné, Clos Saint Julien) have changed in style through switching to organic farming practices. This wine shows one of the darkest colors that I have ever seen from the estate. The nose is discreet, yet fruity and pure, smelling of blueberries. Lovely on entry, it performs full of tactile softness and fruits. It offers good body, and gains a few points on finish, where I found it more sustained than usual, with more taste. Barrel ageing may enhance it and make it become a nice surprise of the vintage. GRAND CORBIN DESPAGNE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,25 // 87 Showing a dark and intense color with a fruity nose of ripe type, pure and of medium aromatic intensity. This wine starts soft and pulpy on entry, then develops melting with taste over medium body. It delivers a finer grain of tannins than usual, and thus without austerity. The finish is of medium length. GRIMON Côtes de Castillon 14 // 84 This wine appears very fruity, enjoyable and finely pulpy from entry to finish, with well coated tannins. It offers a very good Quality Price Ratio (priced around 5 euros per bottle). HAUT BERNAT Puisseguin-St-Emilion 14,5 // 85 Showing a dark color with a nose of medium aromatic intensity, the wine appears tender, fruity and fresh, of medium yet tasty body. HAUT CARLES Fronsac 15 // 86 Showing a dark and intense color with a fruity, fresh and quite distinguished nose. This wine appears juicy and aromatic from entry, quite mellow, with taste, good body and tannins that are not woody, unlike other presentations as futures. It shows medium length. I invite my readers to see my latest chronicle in order to know more about this estate of which the evolution of some vintages remain performing below my expectations. HAUT CHAIGNEAU Lalande de Pomerol 14 // 84 Showing a Bordeaux color of medium intensity with a fruity and discreet nose. Tender, rounded and fruity on the palate, the finish of this wine remains short. It will call for an early consumption. HAUT MAZERIS Canon-Fronsac 14,5 // 85 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a sugary nose, this wine appears enjoyable on the palate, fruity, aromatic and of medium body. JOANIN BECOT Côtes de Castillon 15,5 - 15,75 // 87 - 88 I have tasted this wine multiple times with consistent pleasure. Showing a lovely color and a very fruity, aromatic, fresh and ripe nose. The wine appears sappy, fleshy and dynamic on the palate, developing over a mellow body, with taste, melting and nicely fleshed tannins. Long and savory finish. This is both well done and hedonistic. The character of this wine is well confirmed by the very nice evolution of previous vintages tasted from bottles. Bravo! LA CHENADE Lalande de Pomerol 14,25 // 84 - 85 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity nose that appears a bit cold in such a sunny vintage in the late season. This wine performs mellow, fruity and a tad tannic on the palate, yet also suave too. It finishes of medium length. LA DAUPHINE Fronsac 14 // 84 This wine appears fruity as a whole, flowing on the palate, slightly light yet remaining enjoyable. LA FLEUR DE BOUARD Lalande de Pomerol 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing a lovely dark intense color, with a ripe, fruity, and spicy nose; this wine is distinguished on entry for its suavity and volume. It develops melting, aromatic and enjoyable, appearing very fruity over a soft body before finishing with good length. LA GRAVIÈRE Lalande de Pomerol 14,5 // 85 Showing a dark color of medium intensity, with a creamy, spicy and fruity nose. This wine appears fruity and enjoyable, with a finely creamy touch, and a good body. It behaves both tannic and velvety at the same time on finish. This estate is getting better and better. LA MAURIANE Puisseguin-St-Emilion 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing a very intense dark color with a fruity and ripe nose of cocoa, this wine appears finely pulpy on entry, then develops vivid and tensed, silky, fat with a rather elongated profile than large on the mid-palate, which marks a difference from the previous vintages. This La Mauriane finishes long, with coated tannins. Yet, last year at the same time, the 2007 vintage did strike me more. LA RIVIERE Fronsac 15 // 86 Showing a dark color of good intensity with a fruity, fresh and finely woody nose, this wine is much more precise than in the past. Appearing instantly pulpy on the palate, this wine offers an unprecedented mellow body, developing savory and particularly well structured. It finishes over licorice and fruit characteristics, with no tannic toughness. This is the best La Rivière that I have tasted in a very, very long time! LA ROUSSELLE Fronsac 15,5 // 87 - 88 As often, this estate is among the very best Fronsac. Showing a lovely dark color with a distinguished fine, fruity, fresh and slightly smoky nose, this wine appears very well structured and velvety on the palate. It glides tasty and tender over very well coated tannins, which remain smoky in the persistence. Good length. LA SERGUE Lalande de Pomerol 15,5 // 87 - 88 This year, this wine stands out from the crowd and confirms the lift of the estate and its brand. Showing a dark purple color with a fruity and floral nose that smells of vanilla and cherry. Above all, the wine is less woody than in previous vintages. It appears savory from entry and develops finely pulpy with taste and a good body. Tannins show no stiffness whatsoever and are followed by good length. A success. LA VIEILLE CURE Fronsac 14,75 // 85 - 86 Offering a discreet nose in this vintage, the wine also offers a ripe character which also makes its charm on the palate. Nevertheless, it shows a more average body than usual. During barrel ageing and at this point in time, winemaker Jean Noel Hervé prefers moving forward softly rather than with power. To be followed through barrel ageing in a few months. LASSEGUE St-Emilion Grand Cru 16 // 88 - 89 Showing a dark and intense color with a ripe and fruity nose; almost too ripe, slightly Californian! Soft and well endowed on the palate, this wine develops sappy, very fruity and pulpy, with taste and power on finish. It delivers a good length and performs rather concentrated which can't help but reminding me of the wines made by Pierre Seillan in California. A blend of 60 % merlot, 25 % cabernet franc, and 15 % cabernet sauvignon. LE PLUS DE LA FLEUR DE BOUARD Lalande de Pomerol 16,25 - 16,5 // 89 - 90 Showing a lovely dark and intense color with a very aromatic and fruity nose, this wine offers grilled nuances, appearing remarkable on entry, both silky and pulpy. Then, it develops tannic and suave at the same time, with taste and a lovely fleshy envelop, with no fault from the beginning to the end. The wine finishes powerful and is followed by a good length. I would just like to remind readers that this wine is made from 100% merlot and that barrel ageing lasts up to 30 months, a unique example in this appellation and even the right bank. LES GRANDS MARÉCHAUX Premières Côtes de Blaye 14,5 // 85 This wine is tender on the palate, with medium body and a fruity taste. Tannins are well located. It finishes savory and spicy LES TROIS CROIX Fronsac 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity and ripe nose, this wine appears finely pulpy on entry and offers a fine touch on the palate with a pleasant velvety character. It provides coated tannins and a spicy finish of medium length. LYNCH BAGES Pauillac 16,5 // 90Since the concomitant arrival in 2006 of Jean-Charles Cazes and new director Nicolas Labenne, the profile of this wine shows some subtle changes and returns to a higher level. More green work, more parcel based selection, the creation of a generic wine, a reflection on vine massal selection and the rescue of the vines of petit verdot show the reflection of this additional attention. In fact, the wine seems to be both more open and more precise. You will also see in future reports that the white wine also benefits from these enhancements. Showing a lovely dark color with a discreet yet pure and fresh nose, slightly purer than usual; this wine performs fleshy on entry, very savory and complete, then developing aromatic with taste and coated tannins. The length is both tasty and powerful. Overall, it is well made and rather dense for the vintage. The end of picking took place right before the frost of October 19th. This is a blend of 78% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot, 7% cabernet franc, and 2% petit verdot. From now on, barrel ageing will be made into 75% of new wood barrels.LYONNAT Lussac-Saint-Emilion 15 // 86It has been a long time that I haven't tasted such Lyonnat at this level! This wine was presented by Hubert de Bouard, who acts as consultant. Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity nose, both fresh and ripe at the same time, as well as a vanilla characteristic. This wine is surprising for the appellation given how fleshy and coated its body performs. While behaving savory on the mid-palate, it evolves full with no toughness toward a very good and tasty finish, never appearing tough. Bravo! MOULIN HAUT LAROQUE Fronsac 15,5 - 15,75 // 87 - 88 In the middle of a group of quite neutral wines, it is been remarked as a mountain in the middle of the desert. Showing a lovely dark color with a rather discreet yet floral nose of ripe type, this wine mostly differentiates from others by the perfect quality of its structure. After the mid-palate, an unprecedented rose perfume returns that I associate to the late harvests of cabernet franc. It offers perfectly coated tannins, it is well made, well structured and, well, this is Moulin Haut Laroque, nothing else! PETIT GRAVET AÎNÉ St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a lovely and intense purple color with a very fruity and ripe nose; this wine performs tender on entry, then aromatic on the mid-palate, with medium body, evolving tasty towards a tannic, rather coated and aromatic finish. My belief is that its rating should increase with barrel ageing. REYNON Premières Côtes de Bordeaux 15 // 86 Showing a dark color with a fruity and riper nose than usual. Mellow and silky on the palate, this wine performs aromatic, melting both graciously and tasty. Good length and nice lift. One should note that for the first time, this blend includes 10% petit verdot. SAINTAYME St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity nose that I would qualify as slightly cold. On the palate, this wine appears softer, more juicy, fruity, mellow and really hedonistic with no toughness. VEYRY Côtes de Castillon 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color with a fruity, slightly wood and creamy nose, the wine appears suave on entry, then develops fruity over a rounded body. It performs slightly eclipsed on the mid-palate and finishes over slightly firm tannins. VIEUX CHÂTEAU PALON Montagne-St-Emilion 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 This is a good wine from the montagne saint-émilion appellation, elaborated in a rather more modern style than I generally found over there. Offering an aromatic, spicy, fruity and slightly woody nose, it performs rounded and savory on the palate, with taste. Quite fat overall, this wine intermixes woody and fruity characteristics with good balance. It can be kept for 5 to 10 years. VIGNOT St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,25 - 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity nose; this wine appears tender, fruity and of medium body on the palate. It finishes juicy and creamy, with taste and medium length. A blend of 75 % merlot, 20 % cabernet franc, and 5 % cabernet sauvignon. VRAI CANON BOUCHÉ Canon-Fronsac 15,5 // 87 - 88 The power of this wine is reminiscent of the Cotes de Bordeaux wines. Showing a lovely, vivid and purple color with a fresh, noble and aromatic nose; this wine appears pulpy and velvety on the palate, with a raspberry taste. It offers a full and tensed body before finishing powerful and savory, of good length. This is very good! The next report will be published on Monday, April 20th. Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use brief portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, Quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

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Bordeaux Futures 2008: Results (Part 8)

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