Bordeaux Futures 2008: Results (Part 9)

A reflection on the true false proper sorting of the grapesMargaux - 31 tasting notesGraves and Pessac-Leognan (the end) - 19 tasting notes Ninth report (April, 20th 2009) A REFLECTION ON THE TRUE FALSE PROPER SORTING OF THE GRAPES You will often hear of properties this year who said they have cleaned the bunches which suffered from millerandage in order to only pick the finest grapes from those bunches. However, for the technical team at Haut Brion who harvested the merlots in three pickings, the grapes coming from clusters, which did not get impacted by millerandage, proved to be better than the best grapes most carefully picked from clusters affected by millerandage. Consequently, at Haut Brion, these practitioners have preferred to eliminate all grape clusters, which had gotten touched by millerandage. Obviously all the wine world cannot afford to lose so much volume of wine. Then to make believe of great feat to pick these grapes as with tweezers, there is a limit in the communication that Haut Brion does not cross. ______________________________________________________________________________ MARGAUX The vintage is very discriminatory. It makes the difference between the most noble locations of the appellation which offer aromas and fragrances, and others. It also highlights the weaknesses of body and mid-palate. It is very difficult to say whether their origin lies in the terroir, the work of men in the vineyards or else, to their interpretation of the grapes. At Cantenac Brown, José Sanfin provides an answer by offering one of the most full-bodied wines of the appellation since three vintages. For me the question remains: the best wines of Margaux have a taste, a unique personality, a true treasure, but do they value it? To be followed during bottle ageing. ______________________________________________________________________________ MARGAUX: 31 tasting notesALTER EGO de PALMER Margaux 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing a lovely color with a fruity and pure nose of medium aromatic intensity; this wine performed melting, with a great balance of structure. It offers great precision in its texture and behaves silky. This is a wine that will quickly become very pleasant. The length is medium. While the general quality of Alter Ego is on par with its type, Palmer seems more restrained than what I expected. This 2008 Alter Ego is a blend of 52% merlot and 48% cabernet sauvignon. BELLEVUE DE TAYAC Margaux 15 // 86 Showing a dark and purple color of medium intensity with a fruity nose, this wine appears very fruity and offers an ethereal body on the palate. It delivers a fine taste with coated tannins and finishes of medium length. BRANE CANTENAC Margaux 16,25 // 89 As often, I could blame Brane Cantenac for not showing the value of its aromatic qualities at this time in the year. It shows a too discreet nose. On the other side, it offers a great finesse of sap, a medium body and a high quality of touch along with suavity on the mid-palate, which is enjoyable to witness. It offers a tender and slightly vivid finish and only lacks a certain “je ne sais quoi”, almost nothing to make it flip on the side of the best wines. This wine frustrates me: I would like to see the same qualities with more body. A blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon, 28% merlot and 2% cabernet franc. The selection of the first label represents only 33% of the overall production.BRIO DE CANTENAC BROWN Margaux 15 // 86 This wine offers a nice color with a fruity nose that becomes powerful upon swirling. Rounded and very fruity on the palate, it shows both fat and hedonistic. It expresses itself more on the structure side than on the aromas. Good length. CANTENAC BROWN Margaux 16,25 - 16,5 // 89 - 90 Showing a lovely dark and intense color with a fruity, fine, pure and ripe nose; this wine performs velvety and suave on the palate, develops rounded, tender and melting over a very good taste of fresh fruit and a good balance. It finishes savory with good length and remaining of fine-grained tannins. It is very good. A blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot. Final yield: 42 hl/ha. The selection of the first label represents only 33% of the overall production.CLOS DU JAUGUEYRON Margaux 15,75 - 16 // 88 This wine is delicious! Offering a fruity nose along with a lovely color, it is both fresh and suave and recalls blond tobacco and vanilla characteristics. Deliciously velvety and melting on the palate, this wine develops aromatic, with taste and a fine grain of tannins. It finishes finely coated and proves difficult not to swallow. A success. D'ANGLUDET Margaux 15,25 - 15,5 // 87 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity and ripe nose that is not entirely ready yet. Rounded and aromatic, this wine offers fatness on the mid-palate and power on finish. It performs with a very good and tasty length. D'ISSAN Margaux 16,25 // 89 The estate was located in the “firing line” of the hail corridor that impacted the appellation on May 28th 2008. As a result, yields are low in this vintage with a mere 28 hl/ha. Nevertheless, the estate has fashioned a wine that shows the style that suits so well to this property since 2004. It represents “The” wine from Margaux through a tasty, juicy, aromatic and melting presentation on the palate. It finishes floral with refined tannins and medium length. Alcohol level: 13.24° Total Acidity: 3.17 - pH of 3.82 and a Tannin Potential level of 62 (a medium to high level). It is a blend of 62% cabernet sauvignon and 38% merlot.DAUZAC Margaux 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity, pure and discreet nose; this wine proves discreet on entry, performs tasty, and offers medium body and length. The overall expression is discreet. DEYREM VALENTIN Margaux 15 // 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity, for now the nose is discreet yet offers a fruity smell. This wine is fruity, enjoyable, aromatic and quite melting on the palate. It provides good body and a tannic yet coated finish of medium length. DU TERTRE Margaux 15,5 // 87 - 88 After the mishap of the previous vintage, it seems that the estate has pushed the envelope to offer a wine full of charm with a finally ripe fruit. Caressing and suave on the palate, it offers taste along with a body both ethereal as well as typical of the Margaux appellation. This wine performs well structured and finishes savory over a finish of medium length and fine tannins. A success. New: Kees van Leuwen who made the map of the soils of Saint- Emilion has prepared a map of the parcels of Du Tertre. The estate took that into account during picking this year. For the future, this map of the terroir will enable planting some cabernet sauvignon on the areas that see the most progressive replacement (also the most clayey soils) of the very high percentage (30%) of Cabernet Franc which were planted in the early 1960s. Yields are of 28hl/ha. A selection of 75% of the harvest went into the Grand Vin. It is a blend of: 50% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 20% cabernet franc.DURFORT VIVENS Margaux 15,25 // 87 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity, fine and suave nose; this wine enters meticulously fleshy on the palate, then develops charming, of medium body with taste. It drops a bit on finish by presenting a slightly vivid character. I think that a bit more ripeness in its fruit would totally transform it. It's a pity. In fact, this estate has the taste of great wine locations. It needs to be valorized! It finishes over a medium length. FERRIÈRE Margaux 15,5 // 87 - 88 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a discreet and fruity nose, this wine performs both savory, rounded and juicy on the palate. It then develops on the mid-palate over present yet always-aromatic tannins. This wine offers good structure and a nice body. GISCOURS Margaux 16,25 // 89 Last year, the 2007 vintage was on the edge of (under)ripeness. This year, this estate is among the most successful wines of the Médoc. For the first time director, Didier Foret, has practiced a very thorough parcel-based picking. The estate was neither touched by freezing nor hail. Showing a lovely dark and intense color with a fruity, slightly discreet yet fine nose; this wine is distinguished on entry through its fine pulp and then develops aromatic over a particularly refined touch. Very charming, savory and with depth in taste, it finishes long and sappy over fine tannins. A great pleasure! A selection of 55% of the harvest went into the Grand Vin. It is a blend of: 65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 5% cabernet franc.KIRWAN Margaux 16 // 88 - 89 This is the second vintage made under the leadership of Philippe Delfaut who was previously cellarmaster at Palmer and has become the managing director of Kirwan just two years ago. What a change! That is to say that one shall not give a final judgment about the taste of wine. Who could have said ten years ago that this estate would have become as such today. This renewal comes from profound changes: the combined effects of critic as well as the movie Mondovino. In the end, I am sure that such a change will be financially beneficial. The 2008 vintage shows a lovely purple color with a fine, fruity, ripe and subtle nose. It is one of the subtlest noses I have ever seen from this estate. The balance between fruit and wood is perfect. Very lovely on entry, this wine instantly performs refined, then develops aromatic, with taste and medium body. Such a balance obviously reminds me of the one found in Palmer. It offers one of the most refined grains of tannin ever witnessed on finish from this property. It is delicious! As for the future, I would only like to ask: “The same thing, please, with a little more presence”. I think that Philippe Delfaut is well aware of it. As he modestly puts it, he is focusing on trying to understand the terroir for the time being. And indeed, the terroir of Kirwan is not ordinary. All grape varietals are present, and over 34 ha, there are 15 ha which are rather clayey. The changes being performed are numerous, both in the vineyards (getting back to plough) as well as in the cellars. (moving back to the use of tradional racking methods “à l'esquive” from barrel to barrel rather than from vat to vat) In 2008, the hailstorm struck the vineyards. Yields are low, at 28 hl/ha. It is a blend of 51% cabernet sauvignon, 16% cabernet franc, 18% merlot and above all 15% petit verdot; which petit verdot seem to perfectly fit to Kirwan. LA BESSANE Margaux 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color with a fruity nose; this wine performs soft and enjoyable on the palate. A bit more of body presence would make it more attractive. LA TOUR DE MONS Margaux 13,75 // 83 This wine lacks structure. I can't feel any line of direction in the winemaking. LABEGORCE Margaux 15 - 15,25 // 86 - 87 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a discreet nose, this wine is lovely on entry and develops well structured, savory with taste, body and a finer grain of tannin than usual. It offers a nice length. A success. LABEGORCE ZEDE Margaux 14,5 // 85 This wine offers a nice color and a fruity nose. It performs quite discreet on the palate, and while it shows fruity, it is also slightly vivid. Medium length. LASCOMBES Margaux 15,75 // 88 Showing a dark and intense color with a fine, fruity, aromatic, ripe and floral nose that is charming. This wine offers a slightly more modest palate than the nose may suggest. It develops tender, caressing and meticulous in terms of tannic foundations. Yet, it remains of medium body. (The selection of the first label represents 80% of the production) This vintage brings refinement to Lascombes, but on the other hand it lacks power. A blend of 50 % merlot, 47 % cabernet sauvignon and 3 % petit verdot.LE BARON DE BRANE Margaux 15 // 86 Showing a dark red color of medium intensity with a pure nose that delivers a nice smell of ripe fruits. The wine performs suave on the palate, with good body; it melts on the palate with taste as well as coated and savory tannins. This Baron de Brane finishes of medium length. MALESCOT SAINT EXUPÉRY Margaux 15 // 86 Showing a color of medium intensity with a fruity and vivid nose that is very different than usual. This wine performs discreet on entry, lacks presence on the mid-palate and finishes without much expression over a medium length. MARQUIS D'ALESME BECKER Margaux 15,25 // 87 Showing a dark and intense color with a discreet nose; this wine performs very fruity with presence on entry. It is quite dense and develops aromatic on the palate. There is more stuffing and presence than in the past, yet the overall aromatic tone is slightly cold. One shall see how it will develop through barrel ageing. It finishes over a good length. MARQUIS DE TERME Margaux 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fine, fruity, ripe and creamy nose; this wine performs discreet on entry and offers a body of elongated shape. I regret the high presence of acidity eventhough it has fine tannins. A wine of medium body. Tasted twice consistently. MONBRISON Margaux 14 // 84 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a discreet and fruity nose, this wine performs tender and fruity on the palate, yet finishes slightly short. PALMER Margaux 16,5 // 90 Showing a lovely dark and purple color with a discreet and fresh nose of fruity background and some ink characteristics; this wine instantly marks on entry by its velvety presence. It then develops savory, full and juicy, expressing all in sensuousness of pulp. Offering a nice length made of coated tannins, this is a vintage that plays on the seductive character side. Yields are of 29,5 hl/ha. The blend is of 51% merlot, 41% cabernet sauvignon, and 8% petit verdot. The alcohol level is of 13°. The vineyards were slightly impacted by the hailstorm that came in on May 28th, 2008.PRIEURE LICHINE Margaux 15 // 86 Based on the favorable behavior of this wine since the 2005 vintage, the presentation of its 2008 vintage is a disappointment. The nose is not expressive at all for a margaux. It rather shows quite a lack of precision on entry, and then develops tender as well as aromatic but without the fat that defined it over the previous vintages. It remains of medium length. Tasted three times consistently. RAUZAN GASSIES Margaux 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark color of medium intensity with a fruity and discreet nose of riper appearance than usual. With such a nose, I did not understand its presentation on the palate. It has a medium body, which is caressing yet finishes quite neutral. RAUZAN SEGLA Margaux 16,25 // 89 Showing a lovely dark red color of good intensity with a fresh, fruity, floral and discreet nose, this wine offers a mulberry tree character. On entry, it performs both soft and present at the same time, and then develops aromatic with taste and good body, along with a softness intermixed with power. It finishes tasty and of good length. SIRAN Margaux 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 Showing a nice color with a fruity and fresh nose, this wine performs very fruity, savory and aromatic on the palate; of medium body. It finishes over a persistence of very good taste. ______________________________________________________________________________ GRAVES AND PESSAC-LEOGNAN: 19 tasting notesCARBONNIEUX Pessac-Léognan rouge 14,5 // 85 This wine is aromatic, of medium body, with taste and fine tannins, yet that lacks power. COUHINS LURTON Pessac-Léognan rouge 14,5 // 85 This fruity wine shows discreet and aromatic on the palate, slightly tannic on finish and of medium length. COUHINS Pessac-Léognan rouge 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a vivid red color of medium intensity with a fruity, fresh and aromatic nose; this wine performs of soft touch on the palate, both fruity and savory, yet offering a medium body. D'ARDENNES Graves rouge 15 - 15,25 // 86 - 87 This very discreet estate, away from the medias and of excellent quality price ratio has just produced a superb 2008. The frost that impacted the vineyards on April 8th has reduced the harvest to yields of 36hl/ha, giving its wine an unprecedented fatness. Showing a lovely intense dark color with a very fruity nose that smells of mulberry tree. Powerful and fleshy on the palate, above all, it proves rich in taste, performing suave and almost unctuous. This wine develops aromatic with some nuances of licorice and flowers, fine tannins and a lovely finish. Very recommended. Contact information: cyril.dubrey@wanadoo.fr - www.chateau-ardennes.com DE FIEUZAL Pessac-Léognan rouge 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 This wine shows a dark color with a fruity nose of very ripe type and performs aromatic on the palate, yet remains of medium body. Domaine de CHEVALIER Pessac-Léognan rouge 16,25 - 16,5 // 89 - 90 Showing a dark red color of good intensity with a fruity and ripe nose, this wine performs suave on entry. It then develops aromatic and melting, over a body of refined pulp. It evolves ascending and finishes long on the palate over fine-grained tannins. It is rather impossible not to swallow! DU TOURTE Graves rouge 14,75 // 85 - 86 Showing a dark and intense color with a fruity, fresh and quite aromatic nose, this wine offers a medium body and develops caressing over an ascending profile. It performs with more presence and taste on finish than on entry. It delivers a nice and savory length. Very “Graves”. FERRANDE Graves rouge 14,25 // 84 - 85 This estate starts to improve in quality. It offers a fruity nose and more body on the palate than usual with coated tannins. HAUT BAILLY Pessac-Léognan rouge 16,5 // 90 Showing an intense dark color with a fresh even slightly cold yet complex and aromatic nose, this wine is lovely on entry, performing ample and suave. It develops savory and melting, very, very juicy with constant fruit vibrancy. It finishes well coated, with no austerity and of fine grain. LA LOUVIÈRE Pessac-Léognan rouge 15 // 86 Showing a dark color of good intensity with a fruity and smoky nose of medium aromatic intensity, this wine performs rounded on entry. The wine develops mellow and aromatic, with taste, nice body and a medium length. It is well structured overall. LA SÉRÉNITÉ Pessac-Léognan rouge 15 // 86 I was expecting to find back the unctuousness, which makes the reputation of this wine. Yet, that difference does not exist. On the contrary, it shows an austere character. Barrel ageing should reveal it more. LATOUR MARTILLAC Pessac-Léognan rouge 15 - 15,25 // 86 - 87 Showing a vivid red color with a fruity and creamy nose, this wine performs soft, aromatic and sappy on the palate. While offering a medium body, it delivers a distinguished aroma, and finishes over floral and licorice flavors along with a fine taste of raspberry. Tannins are well coated. LE CLÉMENTIN du Ch. PAPE CLÉMENT Pessac-Léognan rouge 15,5 // 87 - 88 This second label is of surprising quality. It mostly distinguishes itself through a lovely hedonism, which already makes it irresistible. (Also taste the 2005!). Showing a lovely dark color with a very fruity, smoky and above all very pure nose for a second label. On the palate, this wine performs suave and savory, of medium body, yet proving very, very enjoyable. After the mid-palate, it evolves towards fine aromas of licorice, flower and raspberry before finishing over a good length. MALARTIC LAGRAVIERE Pessac-Léognan rouge 16,25 - 16,5 // 89 - 90 Showing a very dark color with a fruity, fresh, ripe and finely creamy nose; this wine is fat from entry. It then develops very aromatic with plenty of taste. Performing well endowed, caressing and dynamic, it always comes along with a raspberry, licorice and violet character. This wine finishes long and quite tannic, yet well coated. OLIVIER Pessac-Léognan rouge 14 // 84 This wine is fruity and enjoyable, yet remains light PAPE CLEMENT Pessac-Léognan rouge 16,75 - 17 // 91 - 92 Showing a lovely dark and intense red color with a fresh, pure, ripe, fine and precise nose. On the palate, this wine performs velvety immediately from entry, then develops over a suave and almost unctuous body. As a whole, it proves perfectly balance with a lovely aromatic vibrancy and lots of freshness. After the mid-palate, the body slightly fades and the upcoming barrel ageing should reveal it more regarding that character. It finishes over fine tannins with austerity at all. It is very good! A blend of 50% cabernet sauvignon, 45% merlot, 3% petit verdot and 2% cabernet franc. Yields are a mere 28 hl/ha. POUMEY Pessac-Léognan rouge 14,25 // 84 - 85 This wine shows nice color with a discreet yet fruity nose, tender and slightly woody on the palate. It finishes of medium length. RAHOUL Graves rouge 13 // 80 This wine is simple and of light body. Bland character. SMITH HAUT LAFITTE Pessac-Léognan rouge 16,25 // 89 Showing a lovely dark and vivid red color with a fruity, fresh and slightly truffled nose, this wine performs soft and suave on entry, and then develops aromatic, savory with a tender character and nice fruit vibrancy. It slightly fades away on finish yet there is no austerity whatsoever. The classic mellow character of Smith Haut Lafitte is present, and that fruit vibrancy that shows at this stage seems new to me. The next report will be published on Monday, April 22th. Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use brief portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, Quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

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Bordeaux Futures 2008: Results (Part 9)

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