Chronicle 75. The striking tastings of this new year (so far). 2006 Bordeaux update. La Clotte Cazalis, Barsac

The striking tastings of this new year (so far) La Clotte-Cazalis, Barsac 2006, 2005, 2004, 2003, 2002, 2001 What's new 2006 Bordeaux update Chronicle n° 75 (March 3rd, 2009) WHAT’S NEW Audio podcast replays of the radio sessions performed at château La Clotte-Cazalis in Barsac and château Brown in Léognan are available in the Radio section of the French side of the website. 2006 BORDEAUX UDPATE Last January, I published my updated vintage report (n°56) with coverage of over 340 wines of the 2006 vintage (also available inside the wine tasting reviews database . Since then I have started retasting these 2006 from bottle. Indeed, I have published another update on the 2006 two weeks ago inside the Chronicle n°74 (French section of the website). Today, not only am I giving you my notes which were published in French two weeks ago, but rather, I am taking the opportunity of my chronicles to provide you with an update on a few more wines that I have tasted at Château Margaux. La Mission Haut-Brion (rated 18,25 // 95-96) made a very strong impression. My rating has further improved and this wine seems superior to Haut-Brion (rated 17,75 // 94-95). Tasted un-decanted, these two wines are on par and rated 17,50 // 94. Decantation magnifies their pulp and the potential depth of La Mission Haut-Brion . Ducru Beaucaillou 2006 (17,25 // 93) When I booked this appointment, Bruno Borie proposed to decant this wine 3 hours in advance. I was even invited to attend the opening of this bottle at 9:00 AM and come to taste it back at noon. In the end, I asked to keep part of the bottle non-decanted in order to compare it to the decanted part. Un-decanted, the wine ranges from 16,75 // 91 to 17 // 92. It even climbs up to 17,25 // 93 once decanted, then showing both greater complexity and a very powerful finish. This very lovely behavior was already anticipated by the superb character of La Croix Beaucaillou (16,25 // 89), a wine that is very difficult not to swallow! At château Latour, the 2006 (17,75 // 94-95) seems inferior to me to the superb 2004 vintage of the estate (rated 18 //95). I prefer the behavior of the 2004, of very Cabernet Sauvignon type. For me, the 2006 slightly lacks of emotion on the mid-palate. Therefore, I have decided to retaste all the 2004 this year. I have started three weeks ago. Tasted non-decanted, Mouton Rothschild 2006 (17,5-17,75 // 94-95), received a great rating Thanks to the purity and nobility of its nose, along with its very complex palate. In Pomerol, I have retasted the following wines un-decanted. La Fleur Petrus 2006 (16,75 // 91) tastes more favorably than Hosanna 2006 (16,25 // 89) and even better than Trotanoy 2006 (16,5-16,75 // 90-91). A rare fact is that La Providence 2006 (17 // 92) shows even better than Trotanoy. Thus, at Christian Moueix’s, 2006 is a very good vintage, in which Petrus 2006 tasted non-decanted (17,75 // 94-95) – What a wine – widens the gap with Trotanoy . It is not always that clear! In another category of wines , Gloria 2006 (15,75-16) is on par with the quality of the 2005, for a cheaper price. (Further details of this tasting can be listened from my radio podcast recorded early February and available here in French only) Saint Pierre 2006 (17 // 92) is also impressive for its flavors, its touch and its pleasurable character that makes it impossible not to swallow. In Pessac-Léognan, château Brown 2006 is the second complete vintage that has been made by winemaker Jean-Christophe Mau. A rare fact (but not unique) is that this Brown 2006 (15,5 // 87-88) is superior to the 2005 (15 // 86). Decanting it induces generous and deep characters on the palate. In the 2006 vintage, the selection of the Grand Vin of Brown represents 55% compared to 80% in 2005. Laville Haut Brion 2006 (16,75 // 91) Laville Haut Brion 2007 (17 // 92) I had high hopes for this wine during my tastings en-primeur. I saw it as good as the exceptional 2003 (rated 17,75-18 // 94-95). In the end, and once bottled, it appears inferior to me. And in fact, the 2007, (rated 17 // 92) other great white vintage in Bordeaux has already become better. It offers a freshness (no honey characteristic) and subtlety while appearing dense and really delicious. Haut Brion white 2006 (17 // 92) Haut Brion white 2007 (17,75 // 94-95) 2006 is on par with my tastings as future and before bottling when it impressed me. Today it appears fat, aromatic and silky with a new salty character. I have a preference for the 2007. While of similar flesh its shows more subtle. It is a great wine finishing very long and fresh over fruity and liquorice characteristics. I have retasted château Margaux 2006 this morning. While I really enjoy d'Issan 2006, which I have brought forward in my vintage report n°56 - in my opinion, château Margaux appears more complex on the nose, richer on the palate, and deeper on finish. Château Margaux, the 2006 (17,75 // 94) is on par with the level of 2004, of a different style. The nose of the 2006 appears ripe while remaining fresh and complex. The one of 2004 seems more vivid; also very good, yet just another type of good! The 2006 delivers plenty of taste and softness, with some mellowness on the mid-palate. This wine finishes very tasty, over present yet fine tannins and some creamy characteristics. The finish is slightly firmer than it used to be before bottling. Thus, the wine shows better once decanted than non-decanted, even just for a few minutes. This is a wine built for ageing, which proved to be quite closed right now. Wait until 2015, it will age for 30 years or more. In conclusion, I have decided to stop retasting the 2006, given how shut down are these wines showing at this time. I believe that their ability to be tasted will be better in a few months. I am rescheduling another complete tasting of the 2006 in September. ________________________________ MONTROSE 2004, Saint-Estèphe Cru Classé, Versus LEOVILLE POYFERRE 2004, Saint-Julien Cru Classé, Versus DOMINUS 2002, California Once more, Dominus 2002 (17 // 92) made a strong impression by the hedonism of its flesh. It does have a seductive character. Nevertheless, it delivers a lesser fine nose than those of Montrose and Léoville Poyferré. Montrose 2004 (17 // 92) is a classic wine that shows very aromatic, of elongated shape, with very well balanced tannins. Léoville Poyferré 2004 (17,25-17,5 // 93-94) shows riper fruit, power and flesh, yet also some slightly firmer tannins, although proving to be well positioned. This is a very lovely bottle that I have tasted three times consistently at this level since December 2008. ___________________________________________ TROPLONG MONDOT 2005 (19 // 97) This was served blind during a recent dinner and I did recognize it. At first, I thought this wine was Spanish, due to its spicy Southern character and its woody underlying background. Nevertheless, the freshness that is represented by very ripe raspberries characteristics have made me moved towards a more northern climatology. On the palate, this wine shows a miracle of softness and density. It evokes a great original terroir and a very moderated yield. Nevertheless, I believe that this wine would be better with slightly less apparent wood on finish. The length is phenomenal and the fruit expression is exciting. This is great wine that is shutting down and transforming. LATOUR 2003 (19 // 97) There are similarities of behavior in these two wines. The 2003 Latour is starting to lose the hedonism of its young flesh and becoming woven in a much more classic fashion. The wine is fine, fat and complex. It takes on a superior life while very long on finish. My absolute recommendation is to wait before drinking it. CHATEAU MARGAUX 2003 (19 //97). This is a surprising wine that has changed a lot since its birth. It is losing some of its very southern aromatic characteristics that used to be marking it, along with its slightly firm tannic touch on finish. Here it comes, appearing fresher on the nose, smelling of raspberry liquor and fruits: sometimes dry (nuts), sometimes ripe, and yet fresh. This wine is marvelous on the palate and of great hedonism. Density and aromatic power are both very high on the mid-palate. Nevertheless, the wine shows great quality of melting and its touch is of exemplary softness on the palate. It reminds me of the 1990. Similar to Latour 2003, its structure finds back a classic lift, which evokes quite a magical effect of terroir. There are no apparent tannins on finish, as it used to have three years ago. This wine provides great length. This is a great wine of noble structure with a very high pleasure level. It can be enjoyed now! It will be alive for 50 years! ANGELUS 2003 (18-18,25 // 95-96) This wine requires being decanted 5 minutes to obtain such rating. Un-decanted, I rate this wine around 17,5-17,75 // 94-95. A simple pouring make this wine gaining great complexity in the nose. On the palate, its mellow character is hard to describe, followed by great taste and rich yet noble tannins, always coming together with nuances of ripe and also very fresh fruits. Bravo! LAROQUE 1998, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé (16 // 88-89) I did serve this wine twice during a presentation that I was hosting on the topic of cabernet sauvignon, eventhough this wine only has 2%! The exact blend consists of 90 % merlot, 8 % cabernet franc and 2 % cabernet sauvignon. In this context, the wine did not shock! It was not recognized as merlot. It has now been many years now that I have noted that the expression of merlot on limestone soils is close to the one of wines made from a majority of cabernet sauvignon on the left bank. This expression profiles the shape of these wines in similar ways on the palate. Add a bit of cabernet franc in order to elongating it on finish and the average taster will have a tough time locating this wine. This is an opportunity for me to say that contrarily to what could be thought, one characteristic of great wines is to blur tracks as to their origin. This observation contradicts the speech about typicity. L’EGLISE CLINET 1993 (16,5 // 90) I have just opened this bottle from my cellar. The nose is stunning by its intensity and nuances. A cedar character points towards the Médoc and its creamy touch more precisely towards Pauillac. With air contact, a smoky characteristic makes it closer to La Mission Haut Brion. This wine shows great balance on the palate, and is slightly firm on finish. This is for sure the best bottle of this estate that I have tasted to date from this vintage. It has given me a wish to taste it from a magnum! I had chosen to serve it with a main course of veal. This was a success. VIEUX CHATEAU CERTAN 1989 (17,75 // 94-95) Served blind after Eglise Clinet, it is distinguished by appearing more complete and more suave on the palate. This wine is drinking deliciously right now. Nevertheless, I regret a slightly more vivid hint on finish. Said differently, picked a bit riper or a slight stricter selection would have positioned this vintage at a very high level. It sill has a great life ahead. CANON 1985 (17,75-18 // 94-95) It has been 14 years that I have not tasted this wine. I did estimate it to be among the best success of the vintage in Bordeaux. And, this bottle tasted at the estate really gave me great pleasure. The wine shows a dark and of course an evolved color. The nose appears intense, fine, subtle, aromatic and complex. Starting smooth and extremely fruity on entry, the wine performs mellow and subtle in its touch and aromas. This wine is well built, showing fat with a sappy, long and subtle finish in its weaving and flavors. This is a great and fine wine which reminds me that Canon do possess a personality out of the ordinary in Saint-Emilion. Can be enjoyed today or kept until 2020-2025 Soon, you will be reading the tasting notes of the evolution of the 2003 Grands Crus Classés of Saint-Emilion tasted decanted and non-decanted. ___________________________________________ LA CLOTTE-CAZALIS, Barsac, 2006, 2005, 2004, 2003, 2002 et 2001 This little estate of Barsac (4 hectares and a half) will from now on count among my repeated tastings covering this appellation. The Lacoste family has made it come out of the dark in 2001 by working without using cryoextraction, or even worse for sweet wines: chaptalization. The blend is made from 90 % of sémillon planted on soils that are mostly clayey-limestone. This induces a softness of pulp and texture that is very seductive. In the future, a bit more of sauvignon will come into the blend. La Clotte-Cazalis is not a wine of big fleshy body. A lot of amateurs of sweet wines will enjoy it even more for it. Here, one is touched by the caressing touch and perfumes that are valued. The price of the following tasted vintage ranges from 20 to 25 euros per bottle (VAT included). I recommend it very much. Contact : www.laclotte.com 2006…………………………………………………... 15,5-15,75 // 87-88 This vintage is one of the most fleshy of this flight, while remaining melting, very fruity and quite ethereal. It finishes over very appetizing white fruit characteristics. Wait until 2011. 2005.…………………………………………………... 15,5-15,75 // 87-88 This is a wine that can be consumed and licked as a treat. It smells of fruits, flowers and candied raisins. On the palate, this wine reminds me of the grace of the best semillon. Here it rings in the like of Climens. The resistance to air contact is fantastic. The wine finishes finely roasted and totally impossible not to be swallowed. Enjoy it now or keep it until 2030. 2004 …………………………………………………... 14,5 // 85 This is the weakest wine of this tasting. It shows some dilution on the mid-palate and a simple finish. 2003…………………………………………………... 15,5 // 87-88 In this vintage, there is substantial gap between a half-bottle and a bottle. The half-bottle already appears to be very evolved. In bottle, the wine keeps a very lovely freshness. Showing an already golden color with a very perfumed nose, it offers a delicate touch, slightly mellow and delicately candied on the palate, yet also performing very aromatic. One will compare delightfully the more roasted and more botrytised version of the 2005 Versus the more sun-dried one from the 2003. Drink before 2015-2020. 2002 …………………………………………………... 15,25 // 87 The quality of this wine reminds me of the best success of the vintage in Sauternes such as Yquem, Nairac and Climens. It offers aromatics of pear both in the nose and on the palate. Purity of flavor associated to the precision of texture makes it overwhelming. I kept it during three weeks in the refrigerator, with the bottle being open without any trace of oxidation. Drink it before 2020. 2001…………………………………………………... 15,25 // 87 As often with wines from 2001, there are some saffron characteristics in the vintage, which witnesses the harvest of Botrytis among other things. The wine appears creamy on the nose, quite melting on the palate, with Mirabelle plum characteristics. Drink it before 2020. Marie-Pierre Lacoste is both an œnologist and an agriculture engineer. Take note that since Jean-Michel Dubosq has left château Beauséjour Dufau Lagarosse, she is in charge of this Premier grand cru classé “B” of Saint-Emilion. Her first vintage will be 2008. The next chronicle will be published on March 16th, 2009. Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: All rights reserved. No part of this article may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the author: Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, 33320 Le Taillan-Médoc. France. Tél. 00 33 (0)5 56 35 83 93. Fax 00 33 (0)5 56 35 86 50. E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr

2009 Chronicles

Chronicle 75. The striking tastings of this new year (so far). 2006 Bordeaux update. La Clotte Cazalis, Barsac

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