Bordeaux Futures 2009: Results (Part 12)

About high levels of alcohol in the 2009 vintageHaut MédocMédocMoulis and ListracTwelfth report. (April, 25th 2010) About high levels of alcohol in the 2009 vintage. High alcohol contents induce the fleshy and mellow characteristics of a wine on entry. They also play a major part in the sensation of volume on the palate and power on finish. In 2009 the wines are rich in fruit flavours and extremely fresh and, so far, I have not come across wines overpowered by alcohol, or very few. But the question might be raised again after the maturing process, should the fruit be altered and lose its covering potential. In other words, the work and skill put into the barrel aging will be of paramount importance for the end quality of the wines. The debate over high alcohol contents is currently causing a split in the whole of the winegrowing area with many readers worrying about the effect of high levels of alcohol in the wines. Winemakers from the right bank have been used to high alcohol content in merlot for a long time. They are not shocked by the high alcohol concentration in the 2009 vintage. On the left bank, and especially on the dry graves soil in the Médoc, where ripe cabernet sauvignon grapes rarely reach 13°, some are wary of high levels of alcohol in the wines. Of course I have not asked each one and every one of the winemakers but two growths have readily talked to me about how cautious they had to be: Château Margaux and château Calon Ségur . Vincent Millet, now at the head of Calon Ségur, worked in château Margaux for a long time. For their 2009 vintage those two prestigious growths have tended to leave merlots with alcohol concentration over 14° out of their grand vin so as to keep it light. Such choice can be explained by their wish to maintain the highly drinkable character of their wine- I mean the urge to swallow it rather than spit it, which itself depends on two elements. The first element is the balance of the wine. The second one depends on the alcohol levels. Even if the wine is well-balanced –mainly if the balance between the pH and the alcohol level is perfect- it is my belief that the urge to keep swallowing the wine also depends on the quantity of alcohol taken in with each of the sips. A 13° wine will therefore apparently present more digestive harmony than a 14° or more wine. For the 2009 vintage, the Médoc stands apart from all the other Bordeaux winegrowing regions. It has shown that in that area, the tannins of the grapes can ripen well without dramatically increasing the levels of alcohol- quite an aesthetic achievement and very skilful winemaking indeed. As regards drinking, right bank wines are, precisely because of their high levels of alcohol, more suited to winter drinking. Médoc wines, because they are less rich, are easier to enjoy in winter and mid-season. I personally do not believe that the 2009 will be wines to be enjoyed in hot summer days. _____________________________________________________________Haut-MédocANDRON Haut-Médoc 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86Jean-Michel Dubos, former director of Beausejour Duffau Lagarosse is in charge of developing this property located in-Seurin-de-Cadourne. Dark color with good intensity. Nose fruity, pure and ripe. Nice, smooth entry into the mouth, the wine develops aromatic and well-built, with body and even with fat. Ripe, refined tannin. Quite enticing. To follow with aging. BELGRAVE Haut-Médoc 15 // 86 Lovely intense color. Fruity nose, ripe, rather creamy, delicate mouth, fruity, pleasant, with pulpy body. Finish has normal length. BELLE-VUE Haut-Médoc 15,5 // 87 - 88My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaigns. Lovely, dark, intense color. Aromatic nose, fine, fruity, smelling of blackberry. Delicate entry into the mouth, fruity and ethereal. I have never seen this wine so supple on the palate. Very aromatic mid-mouth, it finishes on fine tannins with much taste. The pleasure note is already very strong. Lovely length, finely textured. This wine is better than the 2005, which sometimes has harsh wood. Note that since 2007, the barrel suppliers have changed, which favors the finish of this wine. 2009 is the greatest vintage for this estate.It is a blend of 50 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 % Merlot and 20 % Petit Verdot. The part of Cabernet Sauvignon in this wine has increased since 2008. Degree of alcohol: 14.16% - pH : 3.55 - IPT : 93.BERNADOTTE Haut-Médoc 15,5 // 87 - 88My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaigns.Philippe Moreau, the manager of Chateau de Pez in Saint-Estephe, is now in charge of monitoring this Haut-Medoc belonging to the Roederer group. 2009 is the most successful year that I know about from this property. The harvest was relatively late (October 13), and the wine is made from 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot. Very colorful wine, with a lovely fruity nose, of ripe style. Juicy on entry, this wine develops with great charm over a juicy body, with taste and hints of plum on finish. It is vivid, tasty, long and very good. A major success of the vintage. Bravo. 2009 is the greatest vintage for this estate.BERTRAND BRANEYRE Haut-Médoc 15 // 86 Lovely, dark, intense color. Fruity nose, fresh, ripe and creamy. Very pleasant mouth, creamy, very fruity, supple with good fullness, finishing on smooth tannin and a nice taste. Good length. CAMBON LA PELOUSE Haut-Médoc 15 - 15,25 // 86 - 87 Intense purple color. Very fruity nose, black fruit type. Well-built mouth, tender at the start, silky in the middle with normal body. Aromatic finish, and tannic with taste. Normal length. It is good. CAMENSAC Haut-Médoc 15,25 - 15,5 // 87My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaigns. Dark, intense, purple color. Fruity nose, fresh and quite precise, which it was not in the past. Nice mouth, full of smoothness and fruit, where the wine develops aromatic and above all, very well built, with a happy hedonistic feeling. The wine is long in the mouth and good. This is the most accomplished wine that I have tasted here. CHARMAIL Haut-Médoc 15 - 15,25 // 86 - 87 Dark, intense color. Aromatic nose, fruity, ripe. Mouth immediately creamy with a nice ripe fruit taste and body mid-mouth. Good finish with hidden tannin. Well-built, flavorful wine. CISSAC Haut-Médoc 15 // 86Since 2004 this estate has been engaged in a policy that is more qualitative. It is coming back but must go much farther yet. The color is dark, the nose is fruity, fresh but a little cold. Smooth mouth, near-creamy feel, developing flavorful with taste, tannins that are hidden and strong at the finish. Very good length. Aging will make it more attractive. CLOS DU JAUGUEYRON Haut-Médoc 15,5 // 87 - 88My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaigns.This wine is unquestionably one of the references in Haut Médoc. The vines are worked organically with much care by Mr. Theron. Note that Mr. Theron sells Haut Médoc and Margaux under the same name. A right granted given the small area of Margaux. Lovely, dark, intense color. Nose fine, fruity, ripe and creamy. Mouth juicy. silky and smooth, with good fullness. Finish supple with hidden tannin and rather fine grain. It is quite difficult to spit out! Very good length. 2009 is the greatest vintage for this estate.D'AGASSAC Haut-Médoc 15 // 86 Lovely, dark, intense color. Fairly aromatic nose smelling of good black fruit. Entry into the mouth smooth and the wine develops with one of the fattest mouths known on this estate. Mid-mouth well-built, finish rich and long, with tannin showing and not harsh. Blend 50% Merlot, 47 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 3 % Cabernet Franc.D'AURILHAC Haut-Médoc 15 - 15,25 // 86 - 87 Almost black color and purple. Fruity nose, ripe and slightly toasty. Juicy wine in the mouth and flavorful, with a strong, creamy body. Hidden tannin, followed by good tannic length, but well in place. The estate makes the most of this type of vintage. Incidentally, I remember the growth emerged from the shadow in 1997, which was also a late ripening vintage. DE BRAUDE Haut-Médoc 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 Lovely, dark, intense color. Fruity nose, fairly aromatic, smelling of good black fruit. Smooth wine at the start, flavorful in the middle, very fruity with average body. Rather fat finish, aromatic, with taste. It is good. DE GIRONVILLE Haut-Médoc 15,25 // 87My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaigns. Showing a lovely, dark red and intense color, this wine offers a moderately aromatic nose, both fruity and smoky. The wine is creamy and supple on the palate, with taste. I have never seen it so textured, ripe and pleasant, while being well-structured. It is likely that this new texture sensation is induced by the vines, which are now getting older. 2009 is the greatest vintage for this estate.DU RETOUT Haut-Médoc 15 // 86 Dark color, almost black. Fruity nose, discreet. Oily mouth at the start, very fruity and smooth in the middle. The wine develops delicate and sappy at the finish, with good, rather strong length. Alcohol 14 ; IPT 81. Blend 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot et 19% Petit Verdot.LA LAGUNE Haut-Médoc 16,5 // 90My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaigns. Showing a lovely intense dark red color with a pure and very fruity nose this is a pulpy wine on entry, developing delicate, then fat on the mid-palate with vigor. Very flavorful, it reveals itself slowly and finishes strongly on flavorful, coated and very aromatic tannins. Very good length. Little by little, this estate has been gaining flesh over the vintages. It gains in both distinction and depth, while keeping its discreet expression. Clearly, I feel that the attention of the management is focused on the long term. For information, the harvests took place early, starting September 17 for the Merlot, and October 2 for the Cabernet. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 15% Petit Verdot. Alcohol content: 13.9%, pH 3,8, IPT 74, whereas, in a normal year, this estate has a tannic concentration (IPT) around 50-55! 2009 is the greatest vintage for this estate.LA TOUR CARNET Haut-Médoc 16 - 16,25 // 88 - 89My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaigns. Lovely, dark, intense color. Fruity, creamy nose. Mellow mouth, flavorful, developing rather aromatic and supple without the tannic harshness present in the past. Long finish, with strong, but fine, tannins. This wine has changed a lot. The parcels located on graves soil, relatively distant from the property, are said to be used to complete the blend. This is rather a happy choice. 2009 is the greatest vintage for this estate.LAMARQUE Haut-Médoc 15 - 15,25 // 86 - 87My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaigns. Lovely, dark, intense color. Nice, aromatic nose, smelling of good black fruit. In the mouth, it is a revival. This vintage is the least austere that I have tasted on this estate. On the contrary, the mouth is delicate, smooth and flavorful without tannic harshness at the finish. To follow with aging. 2009 is the greatest vintage for this estate.LAROSE PERGANSON Haut-Médoc 14,75 // 85 - 86 Color dark, lovely, purple. Nose fruity, fresh, ripe and vanilla. Full mouth with taste, creamy, and a finish a little more tannic. Normal length. MILLE ROSES Haut-Médoc 14,5 // 85 Without being austere, this wine is rather tannic with a normal length. PALOUMEY Haut-Médoc 15 - 15,25 // 86 - 87 Dark, intense color, rather black. Nose fruity but discreet. Mouth dense, fruity, with a character a little abstract. Flavorful evolution toward a final that is both creamy and tight, followed by good length. PEYRABON Haut-Médoc 15,25 // 87My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaigns. Dark, intense, purple color. Fruity nose, fresh and ripe, moderately aromatic. Nice entry into the mouth, pulpy. The wine develops aromatic with taste, body, rather fine tannin. Good length, well accompanied by wood and aromas. Nice quality. 2009 is the greatest vintage for this estate.PIERBONE Haut-Médoc 14,75 // 85 - 86 The color is dark and the nose fruity but discreet. The mouth is distinguished by an unctuous character, rarely seen on this estate. Lovely taste of black fruit. Hidden tannin. Normal fullness. Flavorful finish. SOCIANDO MALLET Haut-Médoc 16,5 // 90 Lovely, dark, intense color. Fine nose, fruity, aromatic, smelling of good black fruit. Fat mouth, silky and creamy feel, developing aromatic, supple with taste. Finish with tannins, hidden yet strong. Very good length. A success. _____________________________________________________________Médoc This year, the wines of the Medoc regional appellation differ from those of local based appellations (such as Margaux, St Julien, etc.) by offering a higher acidity. In my opinion, overall, local AOC wines seem to come from grapes picked riper. I see this as an effect of man's work much more than the soils. The amazing result of Clos Manou confirms that by investing through passion, hard work and a bit of money, on classified as simple Médoc, a great wine can emerge. CLOS MANOU Médoc 16,5 - 16,75 // 90 - 91 My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaigns. This is a magnificent wine that I place beyond the 2005 vintage. Showing a great deep color and a profound nose that is very fruity, ripe and subtle, this wine is superb on entry, both dense and mellow. It not only develops tasty, with fat and power, but also displays a noble and complex tactile presence. Great length. It is hard to believe that this growth is elaborated in the location of Saint Christoly du Médoc. And yet it is the Number 1 outsider on the left bank. A blend of 56 % cabernet sauvignon, 38 % merlot, 4 % cabernet franc and 2 % petit verdot. The production is of 20 000 bottles for the Grand Vin, thus representing one third of the 9.5 hectares production of the estate. Alcohol level: 14,25° - Total acidity : 3,50 - pH : 3,59 - IPT (potential tannin level): 90 (which is high). Reading the analytical sheet, no one would believe that this wine is impossible not to swallow. As a reminder, this wine is made from handpicked and manually destemmed grapes, aged in 100% new oak barrel. A serious craftwork process delivered at a soft price. This is a must have of the vintage. 2009 is the greatest vintage for this estate.Contact : sogeviti.sf@wanadoo.frFONTAINE DE L'AUBIER Médoc 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaigns. Dark, intense, lovely color. Fruity nose, fresh black fruit type. Smooth mouth, suave with a tender feel, creamy finish. On finish, the wine melts on the best-hidden tannins ever seen on this estate and displays a good persistance. HAUT CONDISSAS Médoc 15,5 - 15,75 // 87 - 88 Dark color, normal intensity. Nose fruity but discreet. Smooth entry into the mouth where the wine develops pulpy, aromatic, with taste, a smooth body and fine tannins at the finish. Lovely, flavorful aftertaste, aromatic and long. It is good! L'INCLASSABLE Médoc 15,25 // 87 Black and purple color. Lovely nose with astonishing scents: intense, fine, fruity, it smells of rose, Muscat and black fruit. Creamy entry in the mouth. The wine develops moderately aromatic, with taste, a smooth feel in the mouth. Full, rich, supple. It finishes long on tannins that are ripe but a bit harsh. Very good length. Definitely a wine for long keeping. L'INCLASSABLE DE RÉMY FAUCHEY Médoc 15,25 - 15,5 // 87 The Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot were harvested late, after the frosts of October 16 and 17. In spite of the calculated risk taken by Mr. Fauchey, I must say that these very late harvests have probably undermined the flavor and the aromatic freshness of the wine. But it is necessary to follow it attentively during aging, since the mouth has such an uncommon profile. The color is black. The nose is discreet. Supple mouth, smooth and almost viscous, where the wine offers a new fat. It evolves rather fast to a full, long finish, where the tannin lacks a bit of aromatic cover. We will see with aging. LA TOUR DE BY Médoc 14,5 - 14,75 // 85 Wine with a fruity, fresh, pure nose. Delicate mouth, fruity, smoothly creamy and not harsh as it was for a long time in other vintages. LAYAUGA Cuvée Renaissance Médoc 14,75 // 85 - 86 Dark, purple, intense color. Nose fruity, fresh, ripe. Smooth mouth, well made with average body and pleasant without coarseness in spite of the tannic finish. Good, flavorful length. LES GRANDS CHÊNES Médoc 13 // 80 Black color, fruity nose but also immature. This acidity is also found in the final tannin. Disappointing! LES ORMES SORBET Médoc 14,5 - 14,75 // 85 Colorful wine with a discreet nose. Creamy mouth, with average body, with taste and hidden tannins. PETIT MANOU Médoc 15,25 // 87This is the second label of Clos Manou. The vines are taken care off in the exact similar way than for the Grand Vin. The only difference is in the winemaking process. Berries are destemmed on a vibrant sorting table, and the fermentation is made in concrete vats. Aging does not include using any new wooden barrels. A blend of 60 % merlot, 32 % cabernet sauvignon, 4 % cabernet franc and 4 % petit verdot. The production represents 40 000 bottles. Alcohol level of 13,7° - Total acidity of 3,40 - pH : 3,65 - IPT : 85. So what about its taste? Well, this wine shows a lovely intense color, the nose is very fruity and aromatic, with gingerbread characteristics. Delicately pulpy on entry, the wine then evolves tasty, extremely enjoyable over a medium body and fleshy tannins. For a second label, it is rather subtle. POTENSAC Médoc 15 // 86 Colorful wine with a discreet nose and a smooth, fruity mouth, with normal body, rather aromatic. Average length. Comment: The estate has grown a lot these past years. It is now 80 hectares, it was only 66 hectares 10 years ago.PREUILLAC Médoc 14,75 // 85 - 86 Lovely, intense color. Very fruity nose, pure, with a creamy aspect. Smooth mouth, creamy with taste, fruit, normal body and well-placed tannins. Good length to which aging will give a patina. SEGUE LONGUE MONNIER Médoc 14,75 // 85 - 86 The wine is distinguished by a lovely color, a nose that is fruity, ripe, and above all, pure and pleasant. Smooth mouth, fruity, with average body but precise taste. Normal final length. Very pleasant wine. TOUR HAUT CAUSSAN Médoc 15,5 // 87 - 88 This is the best Tour Haut Caussan vintage that I have tasted since 2003. It is superior to the 2005. The wine has a good nose of black fruit, and it is fresh, too. The mouth is tender, flavorful, with taste, flesh and length in the finish. Well-covered tannin. Good length, rather strong. TOUR SERAN Médoc 14,5 - 14,75 // 85 Colorful wine, moderately fruity, with a suave mouth, smooth, with taste, fine tannins. Normal length and flavorful. VIEUX ROBIN cuvée Bois de Lunier Médoc 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 Dark color, good intensity. Fruity nose, pure, ripe but still a little bit cold. Round mouth, fruity, pleasant and well-built. Flavorful tannin with taste and good aromatic length. _____________________________________________________________Moulis and ListracCHASSE SPLEEN Moulis 15,25 - 15,5 // 87My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaigns. Lovely intense dark red. Fruity nose but a bit discreet. Smooth, aromatic mouth with a mellow body, normal density, finishing flavorful, on rather fine tannin. Fragrant aftertaste. CLARKE Listrac 14,75 // 85 - 86 This wine performs more tender and smooth than usual on the palate. It offers a normal body and a pleasant finish. DACHER DE DELMONTE Listrac 14,75 // 85 - 86 Here is a Listrac without tannic harshness, with a black fruit taste, a supple body, and a tender finish. Normal length. DUTRUCH GRAND POUJEAUX Moulis 15 - 15,25 // 86 - 87My best rating ever given to this wine during futures campaigns. With the arrival of a new cellar master, this estate has gained in precision and charm. The nose is fruity. The mouth is fat with flavor, body, and a smooth and charming finish. It is good! FONRÉAUD Listrac 15,25 - 15,5 // 87 This is the most complete, most subtle Fonreaud that I know. It smells of good black fruit and the mouth is flavorful, aromatic, and above all, fat, with no harshness. A success. 2009 is the greatest vintage for this estate.LA GARRICQ Moulis 15 - 15,25 // 86 - 87 This is the best wine that I have ever tasted from this property. It offers a slightly creamy nose, smelling of good, ripe fruit. Rounded on the palate with a creamy body, taste and finishing flavorful. A wine that is quite difficult not to swallow. POUJEAUX Moulis 15,25 // 87 Showing a dark color of good intensity, this wine offers a very ripe, fruity, and spicy nose. Creamy and smooth, it performs a bit discreet on the mid-palate. It finishes over a lovely aromatic length with well-hidden tannins. Our next report will be put on line on April 27th.Jean-Marc Quarin. ___________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010. This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr. The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

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Bordeaux Futures 2009: Results (Part 12)

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