Chronicle 102. Bordeaux 2010 : On The Way To a Hat Trick? Château Gazin in Pomerol

Bordeaux 2010 : On The Way To a Hat Trick? Château Gazin in Pomerol Scores: out of 20 or out of 100? Updating our Data Base Wine Tasting Club in Paris Chronicle n°102 (September 15th, 2010) BORDEAUX 2010: ON THE WAY TO A HAT TRICK? I know some will find it hard to believe, but we cannot ignore the facts: what can be observed in Bordeaux since July seems to be taking the 2010 vintage a step closer to greatness every day. Will 2010 be another stellar vintage? Bordeaux is currently going through one of its driest cycle in recent history. 2010 is the third driest year right behind 2005 and 1998. So far, since December 2009, the average monthly rainfall has been below the average of the last thirty years. Rainfall Measurement You'll find the average monthly rainfall- expressed in millimetres- for 2010 and three great vintages in the chart below. Avril Mai Juin Juillet Août 15 septembre 30 septembre 2005 109 14 13 23 40 26 42 2008 61 140 70 25 64 30 39 2009 107 74 50 42 35 16 72 2010 21 50 58 20 8 17 ? Drought : highly concentrated berries and small yield. Poor fruit set (coulure) resulting in varied size grapes (millerandage) were induced by chilly and rainy weather at the time of flowering, particularly among the old merlot vines, thus naturally reducing the yield. Needless to say grapes will have to be properly sorted and small hard berries sifted out. I can see four extremely positive things in the vineyards today: small dark berries, little juice, no shrivelled berries as in 2009 and still leafy and green vines that have obviously not suffered from the heat and continue to ripen their fruit. When the plots are ploughed- which is twice as effective as watering- the vines are better protected against a stop to the maturing process and limited volumes. The grapes from such plots may be brought in earlier and with confidence. The remarkable stamp of July 2010 can already be felt. Let’s not forget that if August makes the must and September the calibre, July also plays a major part in the concentration of the berries by triggering the water stress process. In 2010, July was dry, sunny and hot. Today, analyses all show a higher concentration in tannins than at exactly the same time in 2009, high sugar content, potentially high alcohol levels and well-balanced acidity. I am pleasantly surprised by the excellent flavours of the berries, already crunchy pips and tender skins than this time last year. Sunny and warm daytime weather turning cool at night favours aromatic concentration. It is already noticeable in the first vinified whites to come out of the vats, already more punchy and scented than the 2009s. What will the impact of a chilly. August and rainfall forecast for September 17th, 18th and 19th be? The first fortnight in August was cold - more similar to the 2002 summer than 2005. Only the last 10 days were sunny and warm. I was worried. Having said that, if strong heat and drought had persisted, it would have been a disaster. We all know the saying “August makes the must”. I would also add that August makes the breadth in mid palate. Chilly weather in August should have slowed down the grapes maturing process. Strangely enough, quite the opposite happened. Not only was the veraison even and consistent but the vines caught up after somewhat slow budding and flowering. Such a month should have limited the maturing process - as in 2007. Lab analyses today should therefore clearly be affected, and yet, against all odds, they show that alcohol levels on merlots are everywhere between 13 to 15° - they are also high on the cabernets sauvignons - polyphenols plentiful, the malic acid low –a sign a maturity- and that pHs remain at an average level. So I cannot possibly imagine the wines will lack body, au contraire. Drought over heat We, professionals or amateurs, might have to update our knowledge as drought seems to be playing a bigger part than heat for the quality. It was already true in 2008: July was glorious, similar to 2005, the summer dry, but sun-soaked hot days were too few and far between in August. And yet the 2008s are denser and deeper wines than the 2004s and 2006s. What about the weather in late September? The focus is now on the rainfall expected in the next few days. However, according to Château Ausone weather site, the predicted rainfall is likely to be light and brought in by Northerly winds. I personally believe the merlots are now poised to give out their best, particularly on the early soils. Haut-Brion started bringing them in on Monday 13th. Kick off is scheduled for Monday 20th in Pomerol and for Monday 27th for the Saint-Emilion limestone vineyards. The next few days will also be critical for the cabernets sauvignons and cabernets francs, all gorgeous and in perfect sanitary condition. As for now, the weather is holding well with sunny, warm days –around 26°C- and cool nights –between 12°C and 17°C. We’ll see… and we’ll be sure to taste. ______________________________________________ CHATEAU GAZIN IN POMEROL On the whole, the firm character of the tannins on finish holds back my score for Gazin and keeps it out of the exclusive club of the labels from the Pomerol plateau that all have a soft texture in common. A shame really! How can it be explained? When doing this Gazin vertical tasting it came to me that such firmness could be due to over-extraction or too high a percentage of cabernet sauvignon in the blend. I must say I would love to taste a 100% merlot Gazin. Nicolas de Bailliencourt is reluctant to do so for fear of producing wines lacking bounce. Fifteen years ago I would have shared his concern; not anymore. The Terroir is what really gives bottle ageing wines their energy on the palate, not the grape variety. If Gazin finds the key to silky tannins, no doubt the scores, the price and the status will go up. GAZIN 2008........................................................................... 16,5 // 90 Beautiful dark colour. Intense, delicate and fruity nose with whiffs of cherry and vanilla. The wine is soft on the palate. It displays aromas, shows body and taste and is run through by a full and savoury character from mid palate to finish. Tannins a touch too firm. From 2015 and before 2035. A blend of 92% merlot, 6% cabernet sauvignon and 2% cabernet franc. I preferred that 2008 to the 2009. GAZIN 2007........................................................................... 16 // 88-89 Beautiful, dark and intense colour. Very pleasant and fruity on the nose with a roasting coffee scent and a touch of fresh cream. After a lovely and smooth entry the wine performs savoury, a touch vivid but with the so-typically Pomerol fat. It holds well and ends over savours, presence and a good length. From 2013 and before 2025. A blend of 83% merlot, 12% cabernet sauvignon and 5%cabernet franc. GAZIN 2006........................................................................... 15,75-16 // 88 Deep red colour. Intense and rather complex on the nose with the distinctive Pomerol creamy touch to be found in the appellation top labels. Soft and fruity over a fat touch on entry but the tannins thicken a little on finish. Good length. From 2013-2015 and before 2030. A blend of 90% merlot, 6% cabernet sauvignon and 4% cabernet franc; GAZIN 2005........................................................................... 17 // 92 I have tasted this wine 6 times in the last 2 years. It has the feel of a fine wine : gorgeous colour, beautiful aromas, roundness and breadth on the palate. Long, lingering and savoury on finish yet surprisingly firm, particularly for Pomerol. It definitely is the most successful vintage for this estate. We’ll have to wait for it. From around 2018 and before 2035. _________________________________________________ SCORES: OUT OF 20 OR OUT OF 100? Scores are expressed out of 20 in the data base on the site in French. If you wish to get the scores out of 100, you simply have to switch to the English version. _________________________________________________ UPDATING OUR DATA BASE The prices you find on the data base are average prices which are updated twice a month. Access to the list of wine merchants is currently unavailable. If you wish to know where to make the best buys for the wines mentioned in my report 101, or find any wine you are particularly fond of, do not hesitate to send me an e-mail. BEST DRINK-BY-DATES : A NEW WAY TO SEARCH FOR THE WINES How would you like to know which of the wines are ready to drink every year, which ones are no longer at their best, which ones to sell on? I am currently working on a promising new development that should be ready for you in a few months. _________________________________________________ WINE TASTING CLUB IN PARIS You will find this year’s programme below. There are still a few places available. Please contact me to book now. Wednesday 20 September 2010 UNIQUE TASTING OF TOP MEDOC 2002 Château Margaux, Lafite-Rothschild, Mouton-Rothschild, Latour, Palmer, Montrose, Cos d'Estournel, Calon Ségur, Pichon Comtesse, Pontet Canet, d'Armalhiac + outsiders. Wednesday 1 December 2010 BOTTLES VERSUS MAGNUMS. Come and meet Mathieu Borde, Deputy Manager for CHATEAU LAGRANGE, Saint-Julien, cru classé. In this vertical, you will be given the opportunity to assess how the same wine reacts in two different containers over 3 decades. Wednesday 9 February 2011 THE LOIRE TOP REDS A great opportunity to find out more about the expression of cabernet franc in the top labels from Chinon, Bourgueil, Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil and Saumur Champigny. A blind tasting not to be missed with pirate wines from other winemaking regions. Wednesday 9 March 2011 BORDEAUX WERE ONCE “ERMITAGES” i.e blended with syrah from l’Ermitage. A comparative tasting of 6 vintages from the most famous Ermitage label, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, and 6 top Bordeaux from different appellations. Thursday 19 May 2011 THE TOP-SCORING WINES FROM THE EN PRIMEUR 2010. Be the first to discover the taste of the 40 top scoring-wines. Venue : Chez Drouant, 16 place Gaillon 75002 PARIS. Time : 7.30 pm Places are limited to 15 people - 25 for the 1st December and 19th May tastings. Dinner to be paid for directly at the restaurant. My next report will be available on line on September 30 th, 2010. Cheers . Jean-Marc Quarin ___________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010. This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr. The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

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Chronicle 102. Bordeaux 2010 : On The Way To a Hat Trick? Château Gazin in Pomerol

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