Chronicle 91. 2007 Red Pessac Léognan. 1999 and 1989 d' Yquem

The best and the lesser good of 2009 2007 Red Pessac Léognan 2003, 2002, 1998, 1989 Guiraud – 2002 Doisy Vedrines – 2003 Rayne Vigneau - 1999 and 1989 Yquem Chronicle n° 91 (January, 18th 2010) THE BEST AND THE LESSER GOOD OF 2009 One of the best memories of 2009 remains the dinner at the Chateau Angelus organized by the first great classified growths of St. Emilion and renowned chef Pierre Trois Gros during the Vinexpo tradeshow. A very high expression of French cuisine I had echoed in my chronicle of July 1st. One of the unhappy memories was the service of 1996 Climens, which I rated 14.75 // 85-86 at the Flower Festival. Without joy or charm, I first thought about a problem of bottle variation. But it wasn’t, as it had the same cramped expression as tasted from three different bottles during that evening. I admit that given the poor results of this wine served to 1 500 guests playing the role of ambassadors of the Bordeaux wines in the world, I felt a sense of shame. I thought about readers, customers and all those who like sweet wines, make others know and try to reinvent the way these wines are consumed. But I also thought about the producers themselves, of Xavier Planty and his enthusiastic work, of Nicolas Heeter Tari who knows so well how to pair wines with food, of Martine Pauly working to renew Clos Haut-Peyraguey, of Denis Dubourdieu and even of Yquem, which has been gaining precision in its approach since 2004. This service was not in the interest of the sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac, or those of Bordeaux. Why? Many participants did not like the wine. All have observed that it was from a great terroir. Foreign retailers left thinking that finally, competitors of Bordeaux were perhaps not wrong when they deny their speeches on terroir. Indeed, so famous is the land, if it cannot deliver pleasure, what is it good for? I confess that I do not understand how such a mistake was possible during such a prestigious event. And then about serving Sauternes with dessert, isn’t it outdated? Long life to Sauternes as a starter drink! A producer friend of mine told me this year that he does not understand my interest in Nairac. Climens or other Barsac growths do have a land of better location. Sure ... My role is to point first wines that are good and better than others. It tastes that accounts and not geography. I prefer to drink 1996 Nairac while it is delicious rather than waiting for the Climens to possibly open up one day. The experience taught me that there are only good old wines those that are good young wines. This event gives me the opportunity to ask a key question for those who work in the food and drinks industry. What links wineries maintain with the notion of pleasure? How do they perceive it? The other highlight of 2009 has been the realization that the quality of wine, the man and his work make a second terroir. Certainly, this role is expensive. It could not exist without economic upturn experienced by wine for two decades. Profit and money restore life to knowledge and requirements of the selection. Wines are more expensive, but since 1999, quality has increased in consistency. The differences between vintages are dwindling. The main novelty is that red wines of Bordeaux have never been so pleasant while young. It is likely that this new dimension gives them an unexpected access to some new customers. Another highlight of the year 2009 was the very good performance of Chateau Angelus 1996 to aging. Enjoyed among its peers in the First Classified Growth ranking, it is now the most complete wine and one with the most flesh. At the time, some said they thought that its wines are too tannic, too extracted, the soil was missing and they would eventually dry. Over ten years after the tasting that shows ambient remarks were a mistake. Whatever one thinks of their origin, they reflected mostly ignorance. Before 1998, I found a tannic granulation at Angelus that had none of its peers. Today, I realize better that when a wine lacks of concentration, it is easy to perceive its tannin as thinner. The real challenge of the great wine is its two dimensions that are difficult to reconcile: stuffing and refinement. I note with great interest that Angélus has improved the granularity of its tannin: a real know-how. 2003 Clos Manou, 16,5 // 90 (Mr. and Mrs. Dief from St. Christoly in Médoc, zipcode 33340) and L’Inclassable 2003, 16,5 // 90 (Remy Faucher vineyard in Medoc Prignac, zipcode 33340) are also two beautiful emotions of the past year. Both characterized as simple Médoc wines, yet they exceed the quality of flesh and texture of many classified growths. Two wine enthusiasts run these operations without concession. Grab some in emergency if you can still find them. Their 2009 will be to monitor. ___________________________________________ I AM RESTING IN 2005 RED BORDEAUX Their quality does not wane. I am pleased that this vintage enchanted me since the beginning. When I open a bottle of 2005, I rest! I have sometimes thought that some of the 2006 would as well. It is true they very well behaved for a year since bottling. Today, the 2006 shows that their texture, density and depth are lower than those of 2005. ___________________________________________ 2007 RED PESSAC-LEOGNAN Overall the 2007 vintage in Pessac-Leognan is of average quality for red wines while it was exceptionally successful for white wines. There are some very good red wines that are defined with a body and aromatic intensity ranging from average to good appearing without vegetation, without harsh tannins, even with a nice mellow inferred by a good proportion of Merlot in the assembly or / and late harvest and therefore ripe. But these wines are few: 8 out of 57. Their original character comes from a melted profile and from the softness of their tannins: an invitation to drink them immediately and over the next ten years. From the appellation, the wines of Pessac appears fuller to me than their neighbors of Léognan. On the opposite side of successful wines is a large portion (36 %) of ordinary wines of diluted and watery character. Out of 57 red wines retasted, none are rated in the exceptional category, none in the excellent category, 8 are rated as very good, 23 as good and 22 as very ordinary. Below are three wines that I recommend. Those obtained my 3 best ratings during the tasting of 12/22/2009 (note: Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut Brion and their second labels were not tasted during that session) - Pape-Clément (16 – 16,25 // 89). Lovely nose. Rather tactile on the palate than showing a vibrant fruit - Les Carmes Haut-Brion (15,75 – 16 // 88). A dense 2007 built for ageing as good as the 2006. - Domaine de Chevalier (15,75 // 88). Lovely fruit. Tender on the palate, finely fleshy, yet not fluid. - Smith Haut Lafitte (15,5 // 87-88), performs tasty and nuanced. These four wines get the same rating than during futures while everywhere, many other ratings went down. - Branon (15,5 // 87-88) is distinguished by a lovely subtle and delicate taste that I have not found elsewhere. Still a bit woody it will require patience. Yet, I did rate it with more body during futures tastings and therefore its rating is dropping. La Louvière (15,25-15,5 // 87) is a nice success. This wine offers a more nuanced texture and less rustic than usual. It shows aromatic and even juicy on the palate, with a very pure fruit. Latour-Martillac (15,25 // 87) introduces a discreet nose yet with an enjoyable mellow character on the palate along with fine fruity flavors. Since 2006, it is interesting to note that it is not Michel Rolland who supervises the estate but Denis Dubourdieu. An estate which I do not know yet (only from sight) located in Pessac is Haut Bacalan . I rated it 15.25 // 87. I will visit the estate soon to retaste their wine. Against all odds, Haut-Bailly, Malartic Lagravière and Seguin came totally unapparent during this tasting, thus remaining behind others from a quality stand point. ___________________________________________ 2003, 2002, 1998, 1989 GUIRAUD – 2002 DOISY VEDRINE – 2003 RAYNE VIGNEAU - 1999 AND 1989 YQUEM 2003 GUIRAUD ……………………… 18 // 95 Showing a yellow green color with amber reflections, this wine offers a great, complex and particularly fresh nose that mixes nuances of candied fruits along with peppermint and roses. Very delicate, very fruity, silky and well balanced on the palate, it delivers a great length where rose, bitter almond, dried raisin, candied fruits and pepper intermix. I can’t help but swallowing this wine!It is to be enjoyed before 2030-2040. 2002 GUIRAUD ……………………… 16,25 – 16,5 // 89 - 90 Offering a marvelously, fine and fresh nose of botrytis, this wine is introduced on the palate by a delicate and really delicious sensation. It keeps melting. While remaining of medium body, it is however what makes it instantly attractive now and before 2020-2030. Do not hesitate fetching it in Magnum. 1998 GUIRAUD ……………………… 16,25 // 89 This wine is becoming finer, more subtle and complex. Totally ethereal and nuanced on the palate, it finishes very refined over a taste of almond and orange juice. Its medium density of residual sugar enables serving it at the end of a meal. I suggest pairing it with any service of exotic fruits without using any pie which always makes it appear heavier.It is to be enjoyed before 2020-2030. 1989 GUIRAUD ……………………… 17,5 // 94 Tasted twice in 2009 as for D’Yquem, these wines from 1989 seem to be changing of evolution phases at this time. Their initial fruit vibrancy is dropping (that one I specifically describe in both the 2003 and 2002 Guiraud and in 1999 Yquem). For the first time, I have found in these two wines a compote character. Offering a fruity nose of compote type, with a sweet palate of medium body, this wine delivers a silky, subtle and tender touch. It finishes over a very good and nuanced length. I can’t help but swallowing this wine. Drink now and before 2030-2040. 2002 DOISY VEDRINE ……………. 15,25 // 87 This is a good wine that is marked by ethyl acetate aroma (glue). Of rather large shape and evoking more the style of Sauternes than the vividness of Barsac, it is to be enjoyed before 2015-2018. 2003 RAYNE VIGNEAU …………….. 16,75 // 91 This wine is a must from the estate. Offering a refine and subtle nose that intermixes candied fruit with fresh sensations, it delivers an ethereal and very caressing touch on the palate, with a delicious well balanced sugar level. I can’t help but swallowing it. I particularly recommend it as a starter drink or paired with fresh mango salad.It is to be enjoyed before 2030. 1999 YQUEM ………………………… 17,25 // 93 Showing a pale yellow color with a great fresh, fruity and complex nose; this wine offers density, a subtle touch, some complex aromas, plenty of taste and a finely mellow body. It finishes over a great length. It is all the more remarkable that this vintage was difficult. This wine is delicious. It can be enjoyed now before it changes. It will age until 2025-2035. 1989 YQUEM………………………… 18,25 // 95 - 96 Showing a golden yellow color with a ripe nose of slightly crushed fruits and a rhum character. On the palate, this wine offers more interest, performing both full and ethereal. The wine melts on the mid-palate, both silky and tasty before finishing over complex flavors and a sappy weaving sensation. Drink now and before 2040-2050. ___________________________________________ DATES OF THE TWO-DAYS 2009 BORDEAUX FUTRES TASTING EVENT I will be presenting my best tasting results of the 2009 futures taking place during two days in Bordeaux on Monday, May 31st and Tuesday, June 1st. The number of seats being limited please be sure to pre-register. Seats are allocated on a first-come first served basis. FRENCH WEBSITE UPDATE Vintage report n°59 has been published. This report covers the 2007 vintage tasted before bottling. I have added the following topics: - an article covering the tasting of 70 wines of La Mission Haut-Brion of which a section that compares undecanted, decanted and double-decanted wines. - an article on Laville Haut-Brion - an article about the wines of Alsace - an article about producer Trimbach, the Frédéric Emile cuvée and the Clos Saint Hune. I wish you a happy new year 2010, with an excellent health to taste this rich upcoming vintage that will be presented during the spring. Jean-Marc Quarin ______________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright: The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use brief portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, Quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

2010 Chronicles

Chronicle 91. 2007 Red Pessac Léognan. 1999 and 1989 d' Yquem

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