Chronicle 93. Cambon La Pelouse from 1995 to 2008, Haut-Médoc L'Aura de Cambon 2008, 2007 and 2006, Margaux AOC

CAMBON LA PELOUSE from 1995 to 2008 Southern Haut-Médoc L'AURA DE CAMBON 2008, 2007 and 2006 Margaux AOC Chronicle n° 93 (February 21st, 2010) In the early '70s, the property belonged to the Carrere family from Saint-Emilion. From 1975, they planted a lot of merlot rather based on a St. Emilion vine density (quite large) than a Médocan one (tighter). For a long time, the four handicaps of Cambon La Pelouse were therefore the youth of the vines (inducing a light body), a majority in merlot grape varietal (giving a commercial character), a too wide spacing between vines (inducing dilution of the frame) and the use of mechanical harvest (low concern for selection) Mr Mary bought the property in 1996. Mr Pascaud took the director position in 1999. It was not until 2003 that the work in the vineyard and the cellar began paying. From this vintage, tasting showed that the wine refines its tannins’ ripeness and takes on further dimension on finish. Since 1999, out of the 63 hectares that make up the property, 20 were replanted at 6 800 vines / hectare. Currently, the vineyard is made of 50% Merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 18% cabernet franc and 2% Petit Verdot. These vines of Petit Verdot were planted in 2002 on the finest gravel rump area (1.6 hectares) giving the wine a useful power which magnifies sensations on the palate. Among others, Petit Verdot distinguishes the 2008. It will provide depth and volume in the 2009 vintage. In the current blend, merlot makes a majority in the proportions of 50% to 55%. Today the estate is primarily machine harvested. Only ten hectares are picked manually. I confess that I am always fearful of that type of machine harvest. It often brings the presence of vegetal elements that makes the wine nose and finish to be rustic. However, at Cambon La Pelouse, recent vintages offer a pure and unaltered fruitiness. In fact, Mr Pascaud, who is a keen observer, takes care of racking the juice out of the collecting trolley before fermentation (a dim juice generates earthy and vegetal tastes during fermentation). Cambon la Pelouse’ style The wines are always very colorful. The nose is distinguished by a good intensity, a clean fruitiness, meaty and animal characteristics that are due to merlot and a lack of woody notes. Pleasure rather comes from the purity character that from complexity. On the palate, the estate is characterized by a very nice aromatic aspect (fragrant), whatever the vintage (even in 2007). It comes along with tannins which never dominate this aromatic character, thus providing plenty of drinkability to the estates’ wines. The wine’ structure is elongated and not of wide volume. This elongated style can be explained by the wine history of the location, but also by its soil. Fine and sandy gravels never produce dense wines. Think of all the neighbors of Cambon La Pelouse and you will see that even the classified growths (Cantemerle and La Lagune) do not shine for their power. The aromatic distinction remains exclusive to this type of soil without clay. This aromatic vibrancy, associated with a rather light structure, reminds wines of the Margaux appellation. Indeed, Cambon La Pelouse has the advantage of being accessible young, from three to four years after bottling. With the exception of great vintages (2005) wines are to be drunk within ten to twenty years. This kind character with no weakness (see the 2007) leads me to believe that the wines from Cambon are better to be consumed in half-season or during summer rather than winter. This estate belongs to the Haut Medoc appellation. One should know that there are basically two types of Haut-Médoc: wines located north of St. Estephe, mainly in the town of Saint Seurin de Cadourne and wines made south of Margaux, between the towns of Macau and Le Taillan-Medoc. Thirty plus miles separate these two areas. For equal work, north wines offer body presence at the risk of being austere with squared tannins. In the southern area, charm prevails, along with a lighter body of fragrant character, and often sweet tannins. Finally, take note that this property offers good value for money. 2008………………………………………15,25 // 87 This wine has not been fined yet. Showing a lovely, intense, dark color, this wine offers a fruity, fresh and creamy nose. Soft on entry, it then picks up volume on the mid-palate and becomes denser on finish without losing its aromatic character and drinkability. The wine is woven and pleasant with its distinguished aromas. A success. On the rise since my future tastings. Wait until 2014 and drink before 2025. A blend of 56% merlot, 38% cabernet sauvignon, 3% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot. 2007………………………………………14,75-15 // 86 Showing a lovely youthful red color with a fresh, even creamy and rather fruity nose for the vintage, the wine performs tender and caressing on the palate, of enjoying fruit aromas, medium body and soft tannins. This wine is well made and enjoyable. It can be served from 2012 and until 2020. Pleasure score: 14.5 // 85 2006………………………………………15 // 86 Showing a dark red color of medium intensity with a nose of medium aromatic presence, both fruity and spicy; this wine performs soft, enjoyable and aromatic. It delivers a sweet body of medium weaving. Drink from 2012. Pleasure score: 14.5 // 85 2005………………………………………15,5 // 87-88 This is The vintage from the estate that one should have in his cellar. Showing a dark color and a slightly animal nose of violet. It offers merlot scents rather than cabernet sauvignon. This wine performs very juicy, aromatic and distinguished on the palate, with its licorice and flower aromas. It delivers coated tannins with good body and a delicious good length. Wait until 2013 and drink before 2025. Pleasure score: 15 // 86 2004………………………………………15 // 86 Showing a lovely, dark and youthful color with a nose of medium aromatic intensity, offering creamy and animal flavors. Soft, sweet and fruity on the palate, this wine performs with taste and mostly some discreet tannins and a medium body. This is an enjoyable wine. Wait until 2012 and drink before 2020. Pleasure score: 14.5 // 85 2003………………………………………15 // 86 Showing a lovely, intense and dark color with a nose just a tad marked by the exotic touch of the vintage, yet performing fruity and well made. Sweet and very seductive in its construction, this wine is aromatic, tasty and with noble tannins. It finishes over a good length. Pleasure score: 15 // 86 2002………………………………………15,25 // 87 This vintage is distinguished by a higher portion of cabernet sauvignon than usual. Showing a lovely quite intense red color with black reflection, this wine offers a fruity, slightly discreet and animal nose. Soft and mellow on the palate, it delivers taste, body and coated tannins, before finishing over an inky nuance which evokes cabernet sauvignon. A success of the vintage. Drink now and before 2015-2020. Pleasure score: 15 // 86 2001………………………………………15 // 86 Showing a dark color of good intensity with a quite rustic and animal nose, this wine shows well by performing quite open today. Both tasty and aromatic, it finishes over lesser ripe tannins than previously tasted (more recent) vintages. Drink now and before 2015-2018. Pleasure score: 14 // 84 2000………………………………………14,75 // 85-86 Showing a dark color of normal intensity and little evolution, this wine offers a lovely nose which performs both ripe and fresh. It offers a subtle ink characteristic. On the palate, its main strength is a lovely aroma. Its weakest point remains slightly firm tannins which prevent fatness. This 2000 is of inferior quality than the 2001. Drink now and before 2015. Pleasure score: 13.5 // 82 1999………………………………………13,75 // 83 Enjoyable nose of coffee. Lacking ripeness on the palate. 1998………………………………………13,5 // 82 Enjoyable and creamy nose. Slightly vivid on the palate. Perhaps it was harvested too late? 1997………………………………………13 // 80 Slightly green nose. Lacking taste on the palate. A simple wine. 1996………………………………………13,75 // 83 This vintage reveals the potential characteristics of the estate through texture nuances. On the downside, it lacks taste. 1995………………………………………13,75 // 83 Similar profile to 1996. L'AURA DE CAMBON Since 2006, Cambon La Pelouse elaborates a wine in the Margaux appellation, named l'Aura de Cambon from a 0.5 hectare plot. The production is 3500 bottles. Vines were planted in 2002 and are still very young, yet the wine already distinguishes itself by subtle fragrance and refined tannins. Harvest is made by hand and the wine is made by gravity, using whole berries being cellared in vat without being crushed. Aging is made in 100% new wood and the blend is of 50% cabernet sauvignon and 50% merlot. 2008………………………………………15,75-16 // 88 Showing a lovely intense color with a fruity, slightly animal and slightly woody nose, this wine performs precise on entry, instantly aromatic, with body, fat and a lovely touch. It offers coated tannins that are followed by a lovely vibrancy of flavors. Good and quite scented length. Anticipated pleasure in perspective. Wait until 2015. 2007………………………………………15,5 // 87-88 Showing an intense color with a discreet and slightly animal nose, this wine performs lovely on entry, instantly woven, then developing with taste as well as an aromatic and tasty texture. For now, this wine is slightly marked by wood in its persistence. This is a nice result for such young vines. Wait until 2014 and drink before 2025. Pleasure score: 15 // 86 2006………………………………………15,75 // 88 First vintage of this wine. Showing a lovely intense color with a fruity and quite discreet nose, despite the use of new barrels, this wine performs lovely and soft on entry before developing with taste, over fine tannins. It offers plenty of aromas in the mid-palate and finishes long and fleshy. Very good. Wait until 2012 and drink before 2025. Pleasure score: 15 // 86 Contact : château Cambon La Pelouse - 5, chemin de Canteloup - 33460 Macau - Tel. +33 5 57 88 40 32 - Email : nicolas.marie@cambon-la-pelouse.com The next chronicle will be published on March 1st. I will then communicate my first results of the 2009 Bordeaux vintage tastings. Jean-Marc Quarin ___________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010. This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr. The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

2010 Chronicles

Chronicle 93. Cambon La Pelouse from 1995 to 2008, Haut-Médoc L'Aura de Cambon 2008, 2007 and 2006, Margaux AOC

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