Bordeaux 2010 en primeurs results (Part 15)

Bordeaux 2010: summaryDucru-Beaucaillou – what is going on? Fifteenth report (May 3rd 2010)Summary of the 2010 en primeur campaign All in all, the en primeur 2010 coverage took me the best part of two months. One month to sample and check the wines, another month to publish my ratings and notes. The most exciting moments of this 2010 campaign: Sampling Château Latour; Château Margaux 2010 literally surging out of the glass; both tasting sessions at château Le Pin; sampling château Ausone in the newly renovated building but unfortunately in a room where the wines did not perform at their best – I went back to the estate to re-taste the wines in the vat house; a similar experience at château Labégorce; sampling all the coups de coeur, true finds and outsiders - truly exciting and fascinating crus that bowled me over; experiencing the great joy of tasting the wines rated « my best score given to the estate en primeur »; the new and more cabernet sauvignon profile of La Mission Haut Brion; the depth of Haut Bailly, Guiraud’s liveliness; the powerful character of Troplong Mondot; Issan’s fat on the palate; Raussan Segla’s rise to new heights; Léoville Barton’s amazing grace; Branaire’s mid-palate; Calon Ségur and its tight knit texture coming back to the limelight; the compelling character of Montrose; Larcis Ducasse with press wine; Canon’s resuming its place in the leading group; not to forget wines from biodynamic estates; the incredibly consistent success of the Saint-Emilion labels, no matter the terroir, and the wonderfully attractive and gratifying dry whites. To go back to the vintage itself, I must say that I have found quite a few wines under-extracted. Is it to do with the stage the wines are at at the moment or more with a faulty extraction? As we know, the harvest spanned several weeks in 2010 and so the wines are one month behind in their elaboration. Many estates presented wines that were incomplete - or softer - particularly on the right bank. I think it is a shame they did not actually mention it as Thierry Valette at Clos Puy Arnaud did. It would have made things easier. Regarding extraction, one cannot rave about how gorgeous the berries were and at the same time be in favour of restrained extraction. Have the winemakers in Bordeaux become over cautious? Have they let the grand vin slip away? Is there too much at stake now? May I remind everyone that wines are not meant to be enjoyed en primeur? They have another 14 months to be reared and tendered and then another 15 to 20 years to evolve in bottles before they can be enjoyed. What is going on at Ducru Beaucaillou ? The estate management claimed they were not quite ready and refused to grant me access to a tasting session at the property. But at the very same time, they were welcoming hundreds of people for the en primeur week. If the wine was not ready then, what did those people sample? I asked two of my friends to whom I had taught the skills of tasting and who had been welcome at the estate to let me know their views on the Ducru 2010. Their tasting notes were interesting. They underlined the rather high-extract character of the vintage. When I eventually managed to taste the wine –but still not at the estate - I noted exactly the opposite. I then wrote to Bruno Borie to ask him what the percentage of press wine was in the 2010 and to enquire why, after welcoming me at least 3 times a year for 20 years at the property, they had refused to see me this year. Ducru is said to have organized verticals to compare the 2005, 2009 and 2010 vintages and show the superior calibre of the 2010. If the wine is so outstanding, why was not I invited to taste it at the estate? So far, my questions have been left unanswered. Monsieur Borie resents my notes on Ducru 2010 and apparently took exception when he did not control who had tasted what and when. In a number of messages he sent me he « demands that I delete the illegitimately acquired tasting notes » from my web site. It is indeed in need that one reveals one’s true character, and what I read and see about Ducru seems to me extremely worrying for the estate. The average consumer does not drink and enjoy a score, nor a specific taste, apart maybe from the keenest connoisseurs, but he first and foremost sips and enjoys the region, the style, the soul, the history, the attitude and authenticity that made the wine what it is today. Among the trade, Ducru is said not to have done very well in 2009. For the 2010 vintage, the estate is said to be considering a 30% price increase. To do so it will need to select and secure the most favourable opinions. Would we for one minute imagine critics for the Guide Michelin making their visit publicly known before going to check on a restaurant? We must therefore ask the question of the samples - how representative are they? Are they exactly the same for all? I personally never solely rely on the samples I am given at private tasting sessions but I also take the time and the trouble to taste the wines again in less formal situations. And I have good reasons to do so. Likewise, I never taste samples blind as they can be extremely misleading. The other way to appraise samples is to put them in perspective and that is why it is so important to taste again and again. But many wine critics and journalists only spend 5 to 6 days in Bordeaux during the en primeur week and won’t come back for another year. Some producers are well aware of it. I wish to thank all the producers -and organisations - who readily opened their doors and made the tastings possible. Bordeaux is not short of dedicated and fascinating people whose drive for quality deserves to be better known and encouraged. Many thanks also to Catherine, Martine and Marie Claude for their precious help with the organisation of my work those past few weeks. Tastings As each year, I will be hosting tasting sessions for the top-scoring labels en primeur on the following dates: - May 19th, in my Paris Club - May 25th, at Lavinia in Paris - May 26th, at Magnin in Lausanne - June 7th and 8th, during a special en primeur course in Bordeaux Please contact me if you wish to take part. In the press You can read two of my articles in Decanter (May or June issue) and in L’ Amateur de Bordeaux (June issue) The next report will be put on line on May 15thEnjoy your reading Jean-Marc Quarin ___________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010.This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr. The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

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Bordeaux 2010 en primeurs results (Part 15)

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