Bordeaux 2010 en primeurs results (Part 2)

Saint-Emilion 2010: a stunning vintage (Part 1) Château Latour 2010 Outsiders: Clos Puy Arnaud, Guibot La Fourvieille Second Report (April 4th, 2011) Dear readers, I am just about to start my fourth week of intensive tasting for the en primeur. The best wine of the vintage is Château Latour in Pauillac with a mighty 19/20 score. This is a historic wine – wonderfully rich, deep, elegant, fat, tightly knit, complex and laden with taste. Future generations will still be enjoying it 100 years from now! Here are the ten main points which were assessed at the tasting. A maximum of 10 points can be awarded for each criterion. Colour: 10 Nose: 10 Body: 10 Texture: 10 Suppleness: 10 Viscosity: 10 liveliness (vibrancy + freshness): 10 length : 10 Pleasure score at this point in time (will increase with time): 9 Potential: 10 Total: 99 / 100__________________________________________ Saint-Emilion 2010: a stunning vintage The nice surprise this year is that quality is not linked to a specific type of soil. Only the plots on gravel soils with no clayey subsoil may have induced a more baked character to the fruit. Traditionally, the clayey limestone soils tend to perform better but in 2010 labels such as Laroze, Corbin, Grand Corbin Despagne, the plots of which are more or less clayey but contain no limestone, have produced outstanding wines. I personally believe the drought is responsible for such success - it concentrated the berries and wove the structure. With the success of the cabernet franc and the cabernet sauvignon in 2010, many labels have picked up a wonderfully aromatic character and a deliciously savoury structure, different from the 2009 vintage. They should evolve nicely and develop an elegant tactile feel on the palate. Alcohol contents are high (from 14° to 15°.5) but do not get in the way of taste and pleasure. Very low pH values, particularly on limestone soils, enliven all the wines and help them get near perfect balance. As I wrote in my first report, tending such wines will be a challenge. Only the most talented of winemakers will manage to rear them with success. Buyers should not hesitate to put pressure on their suppliers, push them to strive to excellence and ask them to explain how they intend to tackle this new situation. In 2010 picking was late. Compared to the en primeur campaign last year, many crus appear to be three to four weeks short of preparation and evolution time. For many the malolactic fermentation is not quite over yet. To me, there is but one way to grade those wines in a reliable manner: to have personal knowledge on how wines of similar calibre which were presented at previous en primeur campaigns have evolved with time. Sampling the wines over and over again, year in year out is the only answer. Sampling once en primeur is obviously not enough. When I remarked on some wines somewhat lacking power on finish, I was told by producers that for many crus the vin de presse had not been added to the blend yet. Why not? First because they are not ready and secondly because producers are wary of negative reviews from people who are not so familiar with judging tannins. But as I am so used to tasting the Medoc or Graves top labels in their finalized blend, I managed to sample some again, this time with their percentage of vin de presse, As regards style, 2010 was a dry year - as 2005 and 1995 were- and stiff tannins are a potential risk. I can understand why some winemakers have opted to wait a little longer before they add the vin de presse. It is a sign of their dedication to the standard of the final blend and they should be praised for their caution. Once done, there is no going back. And finally, I could not help noticing how well estates farmed to biodynamic principles did in 2010. This is a risky way of working the vines but it allows winemakers to narrow the time span between the aromatic maturity of the berries and the maturity of the tannins- the latter happening first (see report 1); the wines can keep on maturing their tannins without losing out on aromas. The most successful examples of biodynamic estates are Fonroque and Grand Corbin d’Espagn e in Saint-Emilion along with Clos Puy Arnaud in Castillon. Three absolutely magnificent wines! BELLEFONT BELCIER St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,75 - 16 // 88 My best score for the estate en primeur. Deep dark red. Elegant deep nose - a happy mix of fruit, meat and tar. Lifted and juicy on the palate, with a salty tang, lovely savours and a first rate tactile feel in the mouth. BOUTISSE St-Emilion Grand Cru 14 // 84 Riper nose than usual. Almost creamy on the palate and less bland than in previous vintages but still lacking complexity on finish. CLOS DUBREUIL Saint-Emilion 17 // 92 My best score for the estate en primeur. A second tasting at the property (3.5ha) confirmed that 2010 is indeed the best vintage for the cru. 90% merlot and 10 % cabernet went into the blend. And as the malolactic fermentation is not yet over, it could well get even fleshier. Not to be missed, particularly if you are a Clos Dubreuil follower. Deep, beautifully intense purplish crimson. Gorgeous and complex nose: ripe, fresh, deep, with scents of vanilla. Its fat, density and lovely aromas on the palate point to a skilful and precise crafting. Mighty finish, elegant and sophisticated with finely grained tannins. Utterly delicious. Clos La MADELEINE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,5 // 87 - 88 My best score for the estate en primeur. It has never been so good. Melting and wonderfully aromatic, boasting the most beautiful feel on the palate I've known for the estate. Tannins still present on finish. Good length. Clos TRIMOULET St-Emilion Grand Cru 13,75 // 83 Lacking in fruit vibrancy and real savours. COTE DE BALEAU St-Emilion Grand Cru 16 // 88 - 89 My best score for the estate en primeur. 2010 is a great success for the estate. The wine is of a far superior calibre than in previous years. Careful farming practices, the happy decision to include 25% of cabernet franc and 5% of cabernet sauvignon in the blend and a beautifully restrained use of oak give the wine a more savoury and elegant character than ever before. Gorgeous colour. Creamy, fruity nose of cherry and truffle, ripe and fresh at the same time. Juicy palate crammed with flavours and without the tannic imperfections we came across in previous vintages. Wonderful savours with no rough edges leading to a beautiful length, with poise. Highly gratifying. Well done! Alcohol content : 14°, IPT : 85, merlot 70%. FERRAND LARTIGUE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 Deep red, bright and intense. Nose of fruit and truffle. Melting, lush and hedonistic on the palate, with lovely fresh fruit aromas and finely grained tannins. The spicy finish reminds me of Chateauneuf du Pape. Pretty wine. FOMBRAUGE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,25 // 87 Deep dark red. Nose of fruit and truffle, far fresher than Magrez Fombrauge. Melting, wonderfully fresh and laden with fruit on the palate. Elegantly creamy and flavourful finish. Delicious. FONPLEGADE St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,75 // 85 - 86 On the palate, Fonplegade offers a surprising mix of ripe and green fruity notes. Tannins a touch harsh. FONROQUE St-Emilion Grand Cru 16,5 // 90 My best score for the estate en primeur. Better than 2009! Black colour, fruity nose of fig and raspberry with a mix of fresh and ripe notes. Generously full and tense with a lively fruit expression slowly leading to a gorgeous performance at the back of the palate. Creamy tactile feel from start to finish. Superb length and wonderfully fresh and spicy finish over elegant tannins. A splendid example of what biodynamic principles can do for quality. FRANC GRACE DIEU St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 Soft and melting on the palate, with aromas – strawberry flavours. Average structure. GRAND CORBIN DESPAGNE St-Emilion Grand Cru 16,25 - 16,5 // 89 - 90 My best score en primeur for the estate. I immediately thought of the 1982 vintage, still delicious today. Black colour. Nose of black fruit. Wonderfully subtle on the palate - the most unctuous I have known for the cru. Never overripe but complex and lush throughout, with a pinch of spices and oak. Lingering and subtle finish. Sheer delight. A real winner. It may well be that the change for biodynamic farming principles helped the estate to strike the right balance and achieve density and vivacious aromas whilst avoiding harsh tannins. Blend: 75% merlot, 24% cabernet franc and 1% cabernet sauvignon. Alcohol content: 14°2, pH: 3.65, IPT:88 JEAN FAURE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,75 // 88 My best score for the estate en primeur. Here is another cru that lets its 50% cabernets francs reveal their expression in the blend. Beautifully intense dark red. Ripe nose of crushed raspberries and truffle. Soft and subtle on the palate. Tasty with lush flesh and a lifted structure. Long lingering finish with subtly fruity, spicy and oaky notes. Multi-layered; a real winner. LA COMMANDERIE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 Dark colour. Unfortunately already baked on the nose - distinctive notes of prunes. Attractive palate thanks to a soft build and extremely pleasant savours of vanilla-coated cherries. Average length. LA FLEUR St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 Pretty, attractive wine. Lovely creamy and fruity palate, with a salty tang in the persistence. Will be very good young. LA FLEUR D'ARTHUS St-Emilion Grand Cru 16 // 88 - 89 My best score for the estate en primeur. In 2010, winemakers had to be brave enough to let the cabernet franc and the cabernet sauvignon show what they could do when added to the blends in judicious proportion. The problem is that wine appraisers tend to misjudge cabernets en primeur and that some estates are therefore hesitant to take the plunge. La Fleur d'Arthus, generally a very “merlot” cru, took the risk of including 25% cabernet sauvignon to 75% merlot and I have never found it so perky and subtle on the nose. Dense and delicate on the palate, where the wine literally melts whilst delivering fabulously vibrant tastes of fruit. Impeccable structure. Finely grained tannins. Restrained use of oak -more than ever. Beautiful length. LA GRANGERE St-Emilion Grand Cru 13 // 80 Lacking in taste. LAPLAGNOTTE BELLEVUE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,25 // 87 A charming wine that we'll be able to enjoy young: delicate feel on the palate, suave, with lovely clean fruit. Supple throughout. Delicious finish, with elegant soft tannins. LE PRIEURÉ St-Emilion Grand Cru 16,75 // 91 My best score for the estate en primeur. 2010 is on a par with 2009- superior even. Affected by hail in 2009, the estate's potential is truly revealed by the 2010 vintage. Elegant fruity nose of truffle and cream with notes of cherry- the same I can find in the neighbouring estate of La Clotte. Aromatic, savoury and poised. Increasingly powerful from the mid-palate with spicy and complex layers. Lingering and elegant finish. The unique character of the cru lies in the association of its wonderfully long structure and its glamorous flesh. A name to watch out for in the years to come! Analyses of the 2010 vintage show incredible results that should guarantee it a fabulous ageing potential. So much freshness with such alcohol levels is a real tour de force. Alcohol content: 15.2%, pH: 3.5, TA: 3.85g/l, IPT: 87 LYNSOLENCE St-Emilion Grand Cru 16 // 88 - 89 Quite solar but definitely not baked. Immediately powerful. We'll need to be patient and wait for it. Extremely dark red. Fruity nose of figs conjuring up images of the South. Melting and powerful on the palate, rich yet boasting a soft coating leading to a voluptuous and deep finish with tight tannins. The fattest vintage I've come across for the estate. Maximum level of tannins. Great ageing potential. MAGREZ FOMBRAUGE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,5 // 87 - 88 Black colour. Already a touch baked on the nose, with scents of overripe fruit. It was brought in too late. Performs better on the palate: supple and mellow with charm and hints of black cherry. Tannins a little too marked on finish. Lacks inspiration and flair. Good length. PAS DE L'ANE Saint-Emilion 15,75 // 88 Beautiful deep red. Fruity, subtle, delicate nose with a hint of cherry. Supple and wonderfully fruity on the palate. Soft, suave and extremely appealing structure. Gorgeous length with more aromas than tannins. PATRIS St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,25 // 87 As often, pulpy and soft on the palate with taste and well-coated tannins. Salty tang in the persistence. ROL VALENTIN St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,75 // 88 Black colour. Elegant fruity nose. Lovely restrained notes of cherry then of fig. Soft and suave on the palate, with southern style savours. Showing taste on the mid-palate and refined tannins on finish. It is lovely, but I expected more. SANSONNET St-Emilion Grand Cru 14 // 84 Unusual nose showing both fresh and overripe notes. Over salty on the palate. Definitely brought in too late. TRIANON St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,75 // 88 On a roll since the wonderful 2009 vintage. Showing a subtle nose of truffle and chardonnay! Soft, creamy, complex and particularly attractive on the palate. A softer and more “burgundy” expression than before. A real winner. ____________________________________________ OUTSIDERSCLOS PUY ARNAUD Côtes de Castillon 16,5 // 90 It has never been so elegant! Delicately complex, fruity, clean, and deep nose. Melting and laden with vibrant fruit on the palate, with refined and soft pulp. Gaining in aromas and complexity at the back of the palate. Complex and flavourful finish with subtle tannins. Besides, as the cabernets francs' malolactic fermentation is still underway, they have not been included in the blend yet. That says a lot on the fabulous potential of the cru, which, vintage after vintage, never fails to amaze me. GUIBOT LA FOURVIEILLE Puisseguin-St-Emilion 15,75 // 88My best score for the estate en primeur. The Bourlon family has been crafting beautiful wines on the estate since 2007. The 2008 vintage is an absolute must. 2010 confirms the drive for quality improvement. Creamy lush nose of crushed raspberries and liquorice. Wonderfully fleshy, voluptuous and fat on the palate- surprisingly so for a Puisseguin cru. The perky and powerful character reminds me of limestone soils. Lingering and tasty finish with superbly vibrant aromas. Highly recommended. Kind regards Jean-Marc Quarin ___________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010.This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr. The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

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Bordeaux 2010 en primeurs results (Part 2)

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