Bordeaux 2010 en primeurs results (Part 9)

Saint Julien 2010: a lesser vintage than 2009 and 2005Pauillac 2010 : a stellar vintage – with mixed successLe Défi de Fontenil (Fronsac), Prieure Lichine (Margaux) Ninth Report.(April 20th, 2011) SAINT JULIEN On the whole, I expected more from the 2010 vintage – more lifted aromas, better-defined tannins and a chewier substance. Right now, Léoville Barton and Branaire are the only two labels to be of a superior calibre than 2009. ______________________________________ BEYCHEVELLE Saint-Julien 15,5 // 87 - 88 Subdued on the nose, pleasant on the palate - more focussed on aromas than on structure - Average length. BRANAIRE Saint-Julien 17 // 92 My best score ever given to the cru en primeur. Still boasting its renowned balance and now showing more breadth and density on the mid-palate -a direct result of the totally new way the team has been dealing with press wines. Long finish, finely textured. Subtle nose. Deep and complex structure. A stunner. DU GLANA Saint-Julien 15 // 86 Traditionally the Saint Julien label showing the squarest tannins; even if in 2010 it has gained an unctuous character they still remain firm in the persistence. DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU Saint-Julien 16,75 - 17 // 90 - 91 Beautiful red colour with dark hues. Refined and clean nose of fruits and vanilla. Pretty and dense on entry, leading to lifted aromas, plenty of taste and a glamorous tactile feel on the palate. It loses breadth after the mid-palate but remains deliciously aromatic. Could do with more power on finish- but all the press wine may not have been added to the blend yet. Average length. GLORIA Saint-Julien 16 // 88 - 89 Dark-hued wine. Refined nose of ripe fruit. Scrumptious and dense on the palate, bursting with vibrant fruit. Good length. GRUAUD LAROSE Saint-Julien 16,5 // 90 Intense colour with dark hues. Aromatic nose of vanilla, bursting with fruits. Mellow on entry, leading to a firmer character on the mid-palate. Crammed with savours throughout, long and slightly austere on finish. We will have to see how it evolves at the elevage. A blend of 66% cabernet sauvignon, 28% merlot, 6% petit verdot. Alcohol content: 14°10- IPT: 78 LAGRANGE Saint-Julien 16,75 // 91 The Lagrange 2010 won't be blamed for lacking extraction - unlike many 2010s. Au contraire, the estate did not hesitate to take as much extract as possible from the berries. The result: a rather delicate wine on the nose, pulpy on entry, extremely dense on the mid-palate, tannic on finish, far tighter than usual - but the expression of fruit is ripe and the tannins well-coated. We will have to wait for the end of the elevage to see if the choice has paid off. LANGOA BARTON Saint-Julien 16,5 // 90 My best score ever given to the cru en primeur. Brightly coloured wine. Delicate and floral nose - extremely fragrant. Round, soft and bursting with flavours on the palate all the way through to a good length. Sheer delight. A blend of 73% cabernet sauvignon, 17% merlot, 10% cabernet franc.LEOVILLE BARTON Saint-Julien 17,5 - 17,75 // 94 - 95 My best score ever given to the cru en primeur. The second vintage crafted by M.Bréhan, who took over from M.Raoul as cellar master. His wine is stunning. It stands out for the vibrancy of the nose - floral, clean, with touches of ink. Pure 24 carat gold on the palate: subtle, mellow, with dash and a detailed tactile feel through to a superbly aromatic persistence. A grand vin indeed. Superior to the 2009 and 2005. LEOVILLE LAS CASES Saint-Julien Not sampled For the second year running the estate did not agree to an appointment in time for the en primeur. I have been told that the estate took exception when I wrote in my Report n°59 that among the three labels La Mission Haut Brion, Palmer and Léoville las Cases, only the taste of La Mission Haut Brion was up to a first growth standard. My comment was of course based on tasting notes from a number of blind tastings held in public and for which the bottles had been bought especially. LÉOVILLE POYFERRÉ Saint-Julien 17,5 - 17,75 // 94 - 95 Once again a superb bottle from this estate. Still subdued on the nose but appearing extremely mature. Immediately broad on entry then powerful - and yet melting- on the mid-palate. Showing a glamorous tactile feel and plenty of taste. Delicately supple throughout. Long and utterly delicious finish laced with well-coated tannins. MOULIN DE LA ROSE Saint-Julien 14,75 // 85 - 86 I believe it was brought in a little early; it lacks fat on the palate. MOULIN RICHE Saint-Julien 15,25 // 87 Fruity nose of average aromatic intensity. Round on the palate, with fruit and marked tannins -but the quality of the coating is superior this year. SAINT PIERRE (Sevaistre) Saint-Julien 16,5 // 90 Dark-hued wine. Nose of ripe fruit. Sturdy, supple and mellow on the palate but I expected a more lively expression of fruit than Gloria's. Well-coated tannins. Very good length. TALBOT Saint-Julien 15 // 86 Average fruit on the nose, not terribly structured nor generous on the palate but pleasant all the same. TEYNAC Saint-Julien 15,5 // 87 - 88 Still little known but very good indeed. Dark-hued wine. Nose of ripe fruit. Immediately refined on the palate then juicy, tasty and laced with elegant tannins. The most sophisticated Teynac I have ever tasted. __________________________________________ PAUILLAC The 2010 vintage is overall a greater success for Pauillac than for the neighbouring appellation of Saint Julien. Some labels have done better than in 2005 and 2009. As in Saint Julien, the drought has curbed the liveliness of the fruit but, for those with clayey subsoil, results can truly be spectacular - Château Latour or Lynch Moussas for instance. __________________________________________ BATAILLEY Pauillac 16,5 - 16,75 // 90 - 91 Dark-hued wine. Refined nose of fruit. Superb on entry. Average density on the palate - I expected more - with plenty of taste and a substantial body laced with refined and lingering tannins. The score could well go up if the press wine has not yet been added to the blend. BEHERE Pauillac 15,75 // 88 A true find M. Camou produces this excellent wine on the plateau de Béhéré - a dry graves terroir. This is the fourth vintage I have tasted and I must say that each time I have been pleasantly impressed by its striking aromatic performance on the nose. The terroir definition is also present on the palate, even if the wine is still crafted the old-fashioned way. Long and savoury on finish with a slightly austere character that will even out in the cellar. Make sure you do not miss it! CARRUADES DE LAFITE Pauillac 15,5 - 15,75 // 87 - 88 Lovely nose of fruit - but a touch green. Round, juicy and savoury on the palate, with fat. Good length. CLERC MILON Pauillac 16 - 16,25 // 88 - 89 Superb nose - an interesting medley of right and left bank- clean, creamy, elegant. Subdued on entry, then round on the palate, with lift and density. Good sappy length. CROIZET BAGES Pauillac 13,75 // 83 Imprecise overall with a green edge on the nose. D'ARMAILHAC Pauillac 16 // 88 - 89 One of the most refined D'Armailhac I know. Savoury, fresh and crammed with flavours on the palate. Precise and well-coated tannins. Good length. DUHART MILON ROTHSCHILD Pauillac 15,75 // 88 Rather refined nose of ripe fruits. Juicy, mellow and round on the palate, with good density, but I expected more vibrancy in the expression of fruit. Average length. FONBADET Pauillac 15,25 // 87 One of the best Fonbadet vintages I have ever tasted - with lift, density, plenty of taste and refined tannins. Good savoury length. GRAND PUY DUCASSE Pauillac 15,75 - 16 // 88 Dark-hued wine. Fruity and smokey on the nose. Juicy and crammed with fruits and savours on the palate. Good structure. The wine picks up power at the back of the mouth -a new trait this year- is laced with refined tannins and enjoyable taste. Good length. GRAND PUY LACOSTE Pauillac 17,5 // 94 My best score ever given to the cru en primeur. Splendid nose of ripe and fresh fruits with a pinch of vanilla. Delicately pulpy on entry leading to a wonderfully hedonistic performance - crammed with aromas, full and with a glamorous tactile feel on the palate. Extremely well-structured, dense then long, mellow and laced with fine tannins and plenty of taste. A stunner. A blend of 83% cabernet sauvignon and 17% merlot.HAUT BAGES LIBÉRAL Pauillac 15 // 86 A little simple on the nose, particularly when compared to its peers. Not lacking in depth on the palate but giving the impression it is not yet structured. Will need the elevage. HAUT BATAILLEY Pauillac 16,25 // 89 My best score ever given to the cru en primeur. Gorgeous colour with dark hues. Extremely clean nose, bursting with fruits. Multi-layered, subtle and juicy, with a glamorous tactile feel on the palate. Well-structured, boasting a long finish laced with impeccable and well-coated tannins. Stunning. A blend of 78% cabernet sauvignon, 22% merlot. Alcohol content: 13°5LA FLEUR PEYRABON Pauillac 15,5 - 15,75 // 87 - 88 Pretty and creamy nose of ripe fruit. Savoury on the palate, substantial on the mid-palate, laced with refined tannins and gaining momentum right through to the lingering finish. More presence on finish than on entry. LACOSTE BORIE Pauillac 15 // 86 Pretty wine showing rather complex tannins. Good aromatic length, with fat. LAFITE ROTHSCHILD Pauillac 18 // 95 Dark-hued wine. Fresh and fruity on the nose. Detailed on entry then broad, powerful and savoury with scrumptious flavours of well-ripened fruits. Long and savoury finish, with fat. Not showing the liveliness and subtlety of the 2009. LATOUR Pauillac Pauillac 19,5 - 20 // 99 - 100 My best score ever given to the estate en primeur. Beautifully intense dark-hued wine. Mighty nose: subdued yet deep, with a pinch of truffle. Magnificent on entry: broad, compelling, plentiful and showing a tightly-knit texture -and yet its fat is exceptional! Incredibly rich and melting on the palate, leisurely unfolding layers of flavours through to a powerful finish where tannins and suppleness take it in turns to come to the fore. Très grand vin. Latour had been in the habit of bringing its merlot a little late in the past few years but this changed in 2010, which could explain the lifted new savours. A blend of 90.5% cabernet sauvignon, 8.5% merlot, 0.5% cabernet franc, 0.5% petit verdot. Alcohol content: 14°4 - pH levels: 3.8 - Total acidity: 3.3%- yield: 3.5hl/ha. One of the few wines in Bordeaux that I have not found under-extracted this year.LES FORTS DE LATOUR Pauillac 17 // 92 My best score ever given to the cru en primeur. Gorgeous colour with dark hues. Still subdued on the nose, but complex. Superb on entry: broad and juicy, then tasty and showing a substantial body - voluptuous and full on the palate. Extremely well-structured, crammed with savours, powerful and long on finish. A beauty! LYNCH BAGES Pauillac 16,25 // 89 Dark-hued wine. Intense and fresh on the nose. Delicate pulp on entry but I expected a tighter frame on the mid-palate. Tasty and deliciously melting in the persistence. A blend of 79% cabernet sauvignon, 18% merlot, 2% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot. LYNCH MOUSSAS Pauillac 16,5 - 16,75 // 90 - 91 My best score ever given to the estate en primeur. Beautifully intense dark-hued wine. Nose of fruits. Fat on entry, revealing a creamy tactile feel and plenty of fruit on the palate. Full and crammed with flavours (presence of clay in the subsoil). Wonderfully sappy and long finish. Splendid ! Highly recommended. MOUTON ROTHSCHILD Pauillac 17,75 - 18 // 94 - 95 Dark-hued wine. Subdued nose of fruits - touches of cassis. Elegant on entry then dense, tightly-knit, with average aromatic intensity. The tannic character points to the drought and its consequences on graves soils. We will have to wait and see if the wine develops a more hedonistic character during the elevage. A blend of 94% cabernet sauvignon (the highest percentage ever) and 6% merlot. Alcohol content: 14° - pH levels: 3.8 - IPT:80 -Selection: 49% for the grand vin.PAUILLAC 3ème vin du Château LATOUR Pauillac 15,5 // 87 - 88 Elegant fruit on the nose. Melting and bursting with fruit on the palate. Refined tactile feel, with plenty of taste. Almost perfumed in the persistence. A truly enjoyable wine. PETIT MOUTON DE MOUTON ROTHSCHILD Pauillac 16 // 88 – 89 Beautiful nose of cassis - fresh and packed with fruit. Fuller than usual on the palate. Average length on finish - I could have done with more vibrant fruit in the persistence. With no clayey subsoil Mouton may well have suffered from the drought. PIBRAN Pauillac 16 // 88 - 89 Once again very impressive: clean and elegant on the nose, crammed with aromas on the palate, with sturdy, sophisticated tannins and taste. High pleasure score. A blend of 50% merlot and 50% cabernet sauvignon.PICHON LONGUEVILLE BARON Pauillac 18 // 95 My best score ever given to the cru en primeur. Ever since 2006, my tasting notes have placed Pichon Baron in the lead of the Médoc second growths. Mighty nose of perfectly ripe cherry and spice: clean, deep, refined and bursting with fruits. Superbly broad on entry, then complex, elegant and multi-layered with powerful and yet fleshy tannins. Even more scrumptious at the back of the palate, leading to a regal and deep finish with black fruit overtones. Superb length. A blend of 79% cabernet sauvignon - the highest for the estate with the 1996 vintage - and 21% merlot. Alcohol content: 13°7 - pH levels: 3.71 - IPT: 85. Selection: 50% of the yield.PICHON LONGUEVILLE COMTESSE DE LALANDE Pauillac 16,5 // 90 I have sampled it on two separate occasions with very different results each time. Here are my tasting notes from the tasting that took place at the château along with a marked down score. Delicate nose of mature fruits. Juicy on entry then velvety and a little denser than usual on the palate. Mellow on finish. Good length. A blend of 66% cabernet sauvignon, 24% merlot, 7% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot. Alcohol content : 13°6 - pH levels : 3.73 - IPT : 73PONTET CANET Pauillac 17,75 // 94 - 95 My best score ever given to the cru en primeur. Intense colour with dark hues. Fragrant nose of black fruits. Splendid on entry: supple, broad, soft, complex and crammed with flavours. Wonderfully hedonistic on the mid-palate, with refined tannins, then juicy and tense - more Medoc than ever. Glamorous length with savours and taste in the persistence. Absolutely impossible not to swallow! A blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 4% cabernet franc, 1% petit verdot.RESERVE DE LA COMTESSE Pauillac 14,75 // 85 - 86 Cleaner nose than previous vintages. Supple and aromatic on the palate with dryish touches that should not be here. ________________________________________________ MISCELLANEOUSLE DÉFI DE FONTENIL Fronsac 16,75 // 91 My best score for the estate en primeur. Intense red. Beautifully fragrant and clean nose of fruit and truffle. Extremely hedonistic on the palate, boasting an elegant tactile feel - both dense and supple. Superbly fresh and aromatic, juicy and crammed with flavours. Showing energy and dash right through to the superb length. Splendid! A blend of 100% merlot, vinified and matured in new oak- but it is so beautifully restrained that it is impossible to tell. PRIEURE LICHINE Margaux 16,5 - 16,75 // 90 - 91 My best score ever given to the cru en primeur. I was bowled over by this wine. Gorgeous colour. Refined and subtle nose of fruit. Sturdy and dense on the palate. Juicy, complex and sophisticated, with a glamorous tactile feel in the mouth and a beautifully lingering and savoury length. A stunner. Kind regards Jean-Marc Quarin ___________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010.This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr. The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

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Bordeaux 2010 en primeurs results (Part 9)

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