Chronicle 110. A new Outsider: le Domaine de l’A- Côtes de Castillon- from 1999 to 2009

Le Domaine de l’A- Côtes de Castillon- from 1999 to 2009 Chronicle n° 110 ( February, 1st 2011) Le Domaine de l’A is owned and run by Stephan Derenoncourt, whose reputation precedes him. I rank it among the outsiders. An outsider is a property whose quality of taste is superior to the usually expected standard of a given appellation or growth. On paper, le Domaine de l’A is a mere Côtes de Castillon but on the palate, it is definitely up to many of the classified growths of Saint-Emilion. Because of its delicately velvety texture you might even mistake it for a growth from Margaux, on the opposite bank. In 1999, while working as cellar master at Canon la Gaffelière, Stephan Derenoncourt thought of a wine-share scheme and decided to ask friends and acquaintances to chip in to acquire 2.5 ha that were to become le Domaine de l’A - subscribers would be paid back with wine. And Derenoncourt became the owner of the estate. The first time I visited the property was to sample its 2000 vintage. He wasted no time and immediately increased the density of vines, adding an extra row in the 3 meter-gap between the existing ones. This was essential to avoid the recurrent slack on the mid-palate that we find in the wines from the area where, for production cost, the density of vines is around 5 000/ha. Today, the density on the estate is 7 400/ha i.e more than for most of the classified growths in Saint-Emilion, with an average of 6 600/ha. Over the years, the estate has steadily acquired new parcels. It has also worked hard on its top quality cabernet franc - a massal selection of first class cuttings from l’ Eglise Clinet or Pavie Macquin . Now le Domaine de l’A covers around 10 ha of clayey limestone soils. There is even talk of planting chardonnay on white wine parcels that have been recently added to the estate. The work is based on bio dynamic without the stringent demands of organic certification. The élevage takes place in 50% medium toasted new oak barrels. All the corks come from Manuel Serra in Spain (ms). In the early years, the blend was 60% merlot, 30% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon. From 2006 the blend has been 70% merlot and 30% cabernet franc. The style of the wine I believe Stephan Derenoncourt to be the top winemaker for clayey limestone terroirs in Bordeaux. Thanks to his work and skills, fine tannins are back. And the texture of the wines from le Domaine de l’A is now a model to strive for. A great deal of the pleasure induced by the Domaine de l’A wines is due to it. Here softness goes hand in hand with dash and tightness and with no excess in breadth. What stretches out also refines; the cabernet franc is vital and so is the expression of merlot on limestone soils. On the whole, the wines are fruity on the nose, if not terribly vibrant. A late harvest – and riper berries- is the price to pay to soften out the texture but it tends to dampen the vibrancy of the fruit. So, what should be the priority? Aromas or tannins? One has to choose. The wines display noses of red berries and a whiff of honey that evolve very quickly. From 2004 a note of truffle, one of the typical aromas achieved by little contact with air, is noted. Stephan Derenoncourt, who must be fond of truffles, strived to obtain this note and inscribe it in the range of fragrances in the wines from the right bank. That new quality calls for new vocabulary. Stephan Derenoncourt’s use of the word minerality is thought controversial in Bordeaux; I personally use the term extremely rarely about Bordeaux. He uses the adjective “mineral” to qualify the final note on the tannins; I prefer to use “chalky”; we agree to say that its presence is linked to the limestone in the soil. You will of course understand that what we are talking about here is not the same minerality used to describe the distinctively flinty and slightly smoky note found in some white wines. That is why, from now on, I will use the term chalky-mineral, which I find more precise. In the wines from le Domaine de L’A, this chalky mineral note is more or less perceptible depending on the vintage. Sometimes, it is not even there. So how is such a sensation brought about? When I submitted my tasting notes to my translator I was asked to clarify whether “chalky” was positive or negative. Was it a distinctive taste of chalk left on the palate? The answer is: “No, it is not”. It is most of all a nuance on the texture of the tannins - and not the overall savour of the wine. You can only feel it on finish – as a sort of terroir signature. I am convinced that if the wine is served with food, the chalky note tends to go unnoticed. In a word, wine lovers are more likely to talk about it at a tasting than over a meal. En primeur, the bottles go for between 17 and 21 euros (not including VAT). You can get them at around 30 euros at retailers’. So why don’t you taste it and serve it blind next to bottles bearing more prestigious labels. I believe that you are in for a very pleasant surprise. 2009……….. 16,25–16,5 // 89-90 Pleasure score now: 15,5 // 87-88 Beautiful deep red. Fruity on the nose and palate but offering less vibrancy than the 2008. Mellow, fleshy, velvety, creamy and delightfully long in the mouth. Very good indeed! From 2014 and before 2025. 2008……….. 16,5–16,75 // 90-91 Pleasure score now : 15,5 // 87-88 A superb and wonderfully crafted wine. Deep nose of honey, red berries and a touch of sap. Mellow, dainty and long on the palate, quite powerful on finish. Elegant, delicately chalky texture with deep and beautiful savours. From 2014 and before 2024. 2007……….. 15,5 // 87-88 Pleasure score now: 15,5 // 87-88 Absolutely impossible not to swallow! Beautiful deep colour. Delicate on the nose. Dashy and soft with a superb tactile feel on the palate. Perfectly harmonious balance. More body would have put it on a par with the top ones. Now and before 2016. 2006……….. 16 // 88-89 Pleasure score now: 15 // 87-88 Distinctively different from the other vintages in the line-up - offering more breadth than length. The fruit expression is less vibrant here but the tactile feel on the palate is lovely and the tannins refine. From 2012 and before 2018. 2005……….. 16,5–16,75 // 90-91 Pleasure score now: 15,5 // 87-88 A true fine wine! Creamy on the nose, lush and deliciously fleshy with a velvety tactile feel on the palate and a first class texture. Sappy and mineral-but not chalky- on finish. Perfect balance. From 2012 and before 2022. 2004……….. 16 // 88-89 Pleasure score now: 15,5 // 87-88 Already quite evolved. Nose of truffle. Silky on entry, with a chalky minerality and fine tannins on finish. Extremely fruity on the mid-palate. Delicately woven texture throughout. Drink without delay. 2003……….. 15,5 // 87-88 Pleasure score now: 15,5 // 87-88 Evolved in colour. Nose of truffle, wonderfully fresh. Silky and round on the palate, very much in the style of a pomerol. Laden with fruit and superbly vibrant. Average length with no chalky-mineral accents. Now and before 2014. 2002……….. 15 // 86 Pleasure score now: 15 // 86 Drink now. Already flagging on the nose. The palate is still quite pleasant-with no sharp angles- but simple. 2001……….. 15,75 // 88 Pleasure score now: 15,5 // 87-88 Evolved in colour. Nose of truffle and fruit - but lacking in vibrancy. Extremely pleasant, silky and melting on the palate with distinctive meaty notes in the persistence. Medium-full body and average length. Now and before 2013. 2000……….. 16 // 88-89 Pleasure score now: 16 // 87-89 Lovely evolved colour. Superbly vibrant nose of fruit and truffle. Packed with fruit, superbly fresh in the mouth and boasting an elegant velvety feel on the palate with a delicately woven structure throughout. Good length and no chalky-mineral touch. Now and before 2015. 1999……….. 14,5 // 85 Pleasure score now: 14,5 // 85 Lovely nose of wonderfully vibrant fruit. Mellow and savoury on the palate with more marked tannins on finish than any of the other vintages of the vertical. Medium-full body and average savours. Now and before 2012. ________________________________________ Not to be missed : a first-class tasting to be held in Fribourg, Switzerland, on February 28th, 2011 I'll have the immense pleasure to host this superb tasting with in the line-up: La Romanée Comti 1995, 1996 et 1997 (Burgundy - France) La Mouline, La Turque, La Landonne ( Guigal Côte Rôtie- France) 1989 Château Margaux ( Bordeaux - France) 1996, 2003 and 2006 Pingus (Ribera del douero - Spain)2000, 2003 et 2006 Redigaffi de Tua Rita (Tuscanny - Italy) 1996, 1998, 2002 Dominus ( California) 1991, 1994, 1998 If you are interested and would like to attend, please contact me for full terms and conditions. Enjoy your reading! Jean-Marc Quarin ___________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010. This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr. The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

2011 Chronicles

Chronicle 110. A new Outsider: le Domaine de l’A- Côtes de Castillon- from 1999 to 2009

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