Chronicle 113. How are the 2003 and 2004 Pauillac evolving?

What to pay for the new Bordeaux vintage? How are the 2003 and 2004 Pauillac evolving? Gadras 2009 and 2008 Bordeaux AOC Chronicle n° 113 ( May, 17th 2011) WHAT TO PAY FOR THE NEW BORDEAUX VINTAGE ? In the wine world, paying top price for great vintages is nothing out of the ordinary as they tend to be few and far between. Generally speaking, Bordeaux can rely on two to three outstanding years a decade – it was the case in the 1980s with 1982, 1986 and 1989– and in the 1990s with 1990, 1995, 1996 and 1998 for the right bank. But in the last decade, the trend has been reversed. Not only have outstanding years become regular occurrences but the average quality has also improved and is continuing to do so. From 2000 to 2010, I can only think of 2007 as a moderate year- along with some wines from the 2002 vintage. And so the justification based on scarcity for high prices is no longer valid. Wine merchants are familiar with the issue. Since last November, they have been wondering how they are going to manage to sell the 2010s. What media would be more appropriate to help them sell? I even know of cellar masters who were rebuked for openly saying they expected 2010 to be a superb year. What merchants feared most was to see their professional clients give up on the 2009 orders and switch their interest to the 2010s. The last payments are always due in February –March following the en primeur sale. Talking about a new challenging vintage before that date may not be to everyone’s liking. If we look closely at the history of vintages in Bordeaux, we can see that it is always best for a good year not to be followed or preceded by another successful vintage. We all have in mind how 1990 suffered from being compared with 1989 and how ignored 2001 was in order to shield 2000. So there is still a risk for 2010 to remain in the shadow of 2009. And besides, there is something currently happening in Bordeaux about the forthcoming 2011 vintage that is rather unusual: the vines are already in bloom - a good 20 days ahead of the expected date. The first merlots are flowering when the average date for full bloom is usually around June 10th. Faced with this situation, many professionals will hesitate to put their money on the 2010s. There is still a long way to go of course, but statistically in Bordeaux, early flowering years have always been outstanding. On the economic side, Liv-Ex, the British agency that sets the benchmark on fine wine prices, has published a report showing that 13% of wine professionals expect demands for the new Bordeaux vintage to go up compared to 2009, 28% expect similar demands and 59% expect demands to be inferior. On the whole, the 2010s are likely to be released at a lesser price than the 2009s. But not all of them. Some labels could see their price go up and others could maintain similar price tags. Of course all the châteaux that are intimately convinced they are part of the leading labels would love to be among the happy few that can put their prices up. There are disasters in store, particularly in this area where the way some estates are assessed depends more on what they believe their rank to be than on what it actually is. In 2009, Ducru Beaucaillou and Figeac mis-positioned their release prices. Last week, Cos d’Estournel bottles bore cheaper price tags than after the second release price a year ago! So, this 2010 campaign comes with its load of risks. Consumers should make sure they measure them up properly, first not to be taken aback if they wish to sell on some bottles in the future and secondly not to feel humiliated if they find the very same labels cheaper in two or three years’ time. As always, I suggest you carefully select your future buys and, if you cannot resist speculating, make sure you go for something good and tasty - at least you will be taking a calculated risk and will be able to enjoy your bottles if you cannot sell them on. ___________________________________________________________________________ HOW ARE THE 2003 AND 2004 PAUILLAC EVOLVING? 2004 2003 Batailley 16,5 // 90 16 // 88-89 Fonbadet 14,75 // 85-86 14,75 // 85-86 Grand Puy Ducasse Corked 15 // 86 Grand Puy Lacoste Corked 16,5 // 90 Haut Bages Averous 14 // 84 15,25 // 87 Haut Bages Montpelou 15,25 // 87 15,5 // 87-88 Haut Batailley 15,75 // 88 16 // 88-89 La Reserve de la Comtesse 14,75 // 85-86 13,75 // 83 Lafite Rothschild 16,25 // 89 17,75 // 94-95 Lafleur Peyrabon 15,75 // 88 15,75-16 // 88 Latour 18 // 95 19 // 97 Les Hauts de Pontet 15 // 86 15,25 // 87 Les Tourelles de Longueville 14 // 84 14,75 // 85-86 Lynch Bages 15,75-16 // 88 17,5 // 94-95 Lynch Moussas 15,75-16 // 88 Corked Mouton Rothschild 17 // 92 16,75 and 18 // 91 and 92 Pibran 16 // 88-89 15,25 // 87 Pichon Baron 17,25-17,5 // 93-94 16,75 // 91 Pichon Comtesse 16,75 // 91 17-17,25 // 92-93 Pontet Canet 16,75 // 91 16,25-16,5 // 89-90 2003 On the whole, the 2003s are better than the 2004s. The incredible thing is that the exotic notes and distinctive praline fragrance so specifically linked to the weather conditions in 2003 have disappeared and given way to a more classic and fresher nose. On the palate, the wines are definitely improving and the tannins are not so dry as I once feared they would be. Decanting or not the wines has little impact on the nose. However, the expression on the palate is definitely enhanced if the wine is decanted. The 2003s are to be enjoyed before the 2004s. They are ready to drink now and will peak within the next five years, apart from Latour, which is closed-in and currently going through a brooding phase. The best surprises come from Lynch Bages and Pichon Comtesse. Lynch Bages is a polished, full, complex wine which ends on a fresh note, with hints of ink, flowers and liquorice. It is enhanced by decantation. Pichon Comtesse, which has many a time given such great performances, is incredibly fresh for the vintage and wonderfully savoury. It will keep for another 20 years. Among the second wines, les Hauts de Pontet takes first place for its fat and supple character. Among the non-classed growths, Lafleur Peyrabon is an absolute must. Latour towers above the rest of the first growths – even if rather withdrawn at the moment. 2004 The noses are laden with fresh fruit aromas but are not so deep as the 2003s. On the palate, the more run of the mill wines show austere tannins – it should not be the case; the splendid late season in 2004 favoured optimum maturing of the cabernet sauvignon. The grapes were therefore brought in too early or the yields too high – 2004 was an incredibly generous year in terms of yields. But the top wines do not follow that particular pattern and offer fat and depth. The Pichon Baron 2004 is far superior to the 2003. Les Hauts de Pontet remains in the lead of second wines. The superb Pibran 2004 is far superior to the 2003 too and at its optimum in term of best value for money. Decanting the 2004s enhances the nose and is essential to give breadth to the mid- palate. They are still not ready to drink and it is best to wait until 2013-2015. They will keep for another 15 to 20 years. Once again, among the first growths, Latour is a cut above the rest. Three of the bottles in the line up were corked. The ullage level for the Lafite 2004 was below the fill level of the bottle – from the same case- sampled at a previous tasting. I gave the two bottles of Mouton 2004 similar ratings but I noted significant differences between the two 2003 bottles. Detailed comments will be published on the data base. ___________________________________________________________________________ GADRAS 2009 and 2008 Bordeaux AOC The best value for money in Bordeaux: 6 euros a bottle at the estate Many of you were keen to get an update on this cru. I have just tasted the 2008 and 2009 again. Following a dull period in 2006 and 2007, the estate produced two superb vintages in a row – even if I must say the absolutely delicious and a little more structured 2008 is my favourite of the two. 2009 14,25 Intense bright red. Fresh nose of ripe fruit. Soft and truly pleasant on the palate with taste of backberry. Medium-bodied and showing no rough edges through to a fresh and soft persistence. Average length. 2008 14,75-15 Beautifully intense dark-hued wine. Refined and subtle nose of ripe fruit. Pretty on entry- with pulp - then revealing aromas, taste, fat and perfectly extracted and well-coated tannins. An absolute must from the estate. Make sure you do not miss it. My next report will be available on line from June 1st. Kind regards Jean-Marc Quarin ___________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010. This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr. The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

2011 Chronicles

Chronicle 113. How are the 2003 and 2004 Pauillac evolving?

Subscribe

Subscription

Wine name	(Producer, appellation, etc.)