Chronicle 114 and 115. Saint-Julien 2004, 2003 and 1996

• Saint-Julien 2004, 2003 and 1996 Report n° 114 and n° 115 (21 June 2011 ) Dear readers, I am delighted to announce that my book is now in the hands of my publisher! Once again, I apologize for the delay in the publication of the reports and thank you for the support you have shown me. The good news is that you will very soon be able to see the book cover, learn about its content and, thanks to a special subscription offer, be able to book one before it is officially released. The book will be available in French mid-August, through subscription only, and in the stores on September 1st. Solar, my publisher, and I are planning a book tour in France and will illustrate the content by holding tastings. If you are a member of a club, a wine merchant, or if you own or are in charge of a restaurant and would like to host one of the signing –tasting sessions, we would be delighted to hear from you. The tour should take us to Paris, Bordeaux, Lyons, Lille, Strasbourg, Montpellier and Nantes, but it is still quite open and we will look into any suggestion you may make. The promotion tour will take place from September to December. Thank you to contact me if you are interested. _________________________________________________________ HOW THE 2004, 2003 and 1996 SAINT-JULIEN HAVE EVOLVED Saint-Julien 2004 They are holding very well, and that is a very pleasant surprise indeed (see Saint-Pierre, Langoa and Léoville Barton). The 2004s are often superior to the 2003s and offer delicate and polished wines that are much more consistent than the 2004 Pauillacs. They are true bargains not to be missed. Saint-Julien 2003 Most Saint-Julien 2003 are inferior to the 2004s, apart from Léoville Poyferré, the suprising Gruaud Larose and Branaire Ducru that are far superior to many Pauillacs from the same vintage. Saint-Julien 1996 Ever since 2008 I have sampled all the great 1996 Bordeaux labels on a regular basis. The results are surprisingly inconsistent, particularly in the Medoc, where the wines show harsh and dry notes that are impossible to account for, especially for Margaux. In the Médoc area, Saint-Julien wines take the lead. Among its peers, Lagrange appears to be of a more modern calibre. Thanks to the money invested in the vat house and in the vines since 1985 the cru had been propelled into another dimension and was already well ahead of its time. On the whole, the 1996s are already representative of old style Saint-Julien: they are more acidic, show harsher tannins and an expression of fruit which is generally less ripe than in the wines elaborated in the 2000-2010 decade. All the detailed notes and comments on each appellation will be updated on the data base this summer on the occasion of the release of my book. _________________________________________________________ You will find below the tasting notes and comments on the Saint-Julien 2004 versus 2003 – decanted and non-decanted BEYCHEVELLE Saint-Julien 2004 15,75 // 88 Deep and glossy dark red, slightly evolved. Fruity on the nose, with a hint of crème de cassis. Decanting this Beychevelle 2004 definitely gives its rather average body more breadth. Savoury and pulpy on the mid-palate, with aromatic tannins. It can already be enjoyed if decanted and before 2020. The 2004 vintage is superior to the 2003. BEYCHEVELLE Saint-Julien 2003 15,25 // 87 Colour of average intensity, slightly evolved. Decanted or not, the wine is clean and fruity on the nose with a hint of praline and cedar wood. On the palate, the non-decanted wine lacks in body, which is precisely what the wine gains when decanted. It then becomes more juicy, savoury, velvety and a touch stiff on finish. Reasonably powerful throughout. It can be tasted now and before 2020. BRANAIRE Saint-Julien 2004 16,25 // 89 Gorgeous dark colour. Fruity on the nose. Beautiful on entry, then revealing plenty of aromas and a rather tannic character that unfortunately hinders its charm a little. Getting tighter on finish whilst remaining aromatic. Showing an unexpected hint of austerity in the persistence – but it could be due to this particular bottle. Ready to taste now and before 2020. Not so good as the 2003. BRANAIRE Saint-Julien 2003 16,75 - 17 // 91 - 92 A beauty ! The colour stands out for its youthfulness. Whether we decant it or not, the nose remains extremely fruity and powerful – but the wine performs better on the palate when decanted- it gains in breadth - which is always to Branaire’s advantage. Fat, juicy, with a creamy tactile feel on the palate and quite a specific and unique taste, hard to describe. Powerful and long finish over impeccable tannins. Utterly delicious. You can taste it now, or wait till 2013 but enjoy it before 2030. CLOS DU MARQUIS Saint-Julien 2004 15,25 // 87 Intense colour with dark-hues. Similar nose whether it is decanted or not: fruity, with hints of coffee and wood. The decanted bottle is far superior to the non-decanted one, which lacks expression at the back of the palate. Rather broad and caressing, a touch vivid on finish. Ready to drink now and before 2020. CLOS DU MARQUIS Saint-Julien 2003 16 // 88 - 89 Here again, decanted and non-decanted bottles offer a similar performance on the nose and are both fresh and fruity. Delicate and vibrant on the palate, laden with ripe fruit and showing deep savours at the back of the palate. Good length. CONNETABLE DE TALBOT Saint-Julien 2004 13,75 // 83 Easy-to-drink wine that should have already been drunk. CONNETABLE DE TALBOT Saint-Julien 2003 14 // 84 At its best when decanted - its nose is fresher with a hint of green. A touch dull on the palate, with no harsh tannins but over-simple. Before 2013. DULUC Saint-Julien 2004 14,25 // 84 - 85 Supple and aromatic, not terribly structured but mellow and boasting a very pleasant taste of ripe fruit. Now and before 2014. DULUC Saint-Julien 2003 14,5 // 85 Fresh on the nose in the style of Fief. Quite pleasant on the palate, if decanted. Fresh expression of the fruit, no dry tannins. Average length. Before 2013. GLORIA Saint-Julien 2004 15,75 // 88 Gorgeously intense and youthful colour. Whether the bottle is decanted or not, the expression on the nose is similar and very “Saint-Julien”, with subtle touches of fruit, flowers and vanilla. When decanted, the wine becomes broader and above all softer. Impeccably structured ; packed with fruit ; good length ; utterly delicious. Taste it now and before 2020. GLORIA Saint-Julien 2003 15,5 - 15,75 // 88 Intense colour with dark hues, slightly evolved. Pretty smoky and fruity nose with hints of dried fruit and praline. Decanting the wine enhances the taste and the tactile feel on the palate. It picks up breadth after the mid-palate and ends on rather refine and particularly aromatic tannins. A truly pleasant wine. Now and before 2020. GRUAUD LAROSE Saint-Julien 2004 15,75 – 16 // 88 Deep red with shades of black. Decanted and non-decanted bottles offer similar noses with hints of orange peel, oak and fruit. Supple, fruity, fleshy and aromatic on the palate yet lacking in depth and density in the persistence. 2003 is superior to 2004. Now and before 2025. GRUAUD LAROSE Saint-Julien 2003 17 // 92 It is truly fantastic to see the cru back at such a high level! This 2003 Gruaud Larose is a Saint-Julien not to be missed. Glossy red, slightly evolved. Mellow on the nose, with hints of cedar wood, pencil, precious wood and fruits. Boasting outstanding flesh thanks to decantation. Broad, melting, savoury, powerful and long throughout, revealing a complex range of tastes, with notes of liquorice, flowers and vanilla. A real beauty! Taste it now, but it can wait till 2013 - before 2030. LAGRANGE Saint-Julien 2004 16,5 // 90 Decanted or not, the wine is fresh and fruity on the nose. When decanted, the wine obviously boasts more flesh, becomes more aromatic and above all, its tannic character is smoothed out. Melting, pulpy, with a hint of truffle on the palate; very good length. From 2012 and before 2025. LAGRANGE Saint-Julien 2003 16,5 // 90 Youthful glossy colour with dark hues. Laden with fruit on the nose for both decanted and non-decanted bottles. Supple on the palate, packed with fruit and flesh. Surprisingly fat for a Lagrange. Marked yet well-coated tannins on finish. A little rustic and massive, quite polished. Taste it now or wait till 2013- before 2030. LANGOA BARTON Saint-Julien 2004 16,75 // 91 Gorgeous red with dark hues. Both decanted and non-decanted bottles show similar characteristic on the nose: aromatic, fresh, creamy and complex. Pulpy on entry then revealing elegant supple flesh and a refine tactile feel through to the finish. Complex and powerful yet run through with elegant tannins. Great length. Utterly delicious and still very young. A wonderful surprise. From 2012 and before 2025. LANGOA BARTON Saint-Julien 2003 16 // 88 - 89 Intense, youthful colour with shades of black. Mellow, subtle and almost exotic nose of cherry and vanilla. Round, aromatic and powerful on the mid-palate. Unfortunately the tannins did not manage to avoid the trap most 2003 fell into and are stiff and square. Average length. Before 2020. The 2004 is superior to the 2003 ! LEOVILLE BARTON Saint-Julien 2004 17 // 92 Youthful, brightly coloured wine with shades of black. Complex on the nose: laden with fruit, spicy, delicately creamy and fresh. Decanting this cru is essential to give the flesh more breadth. Extremely tasty at first then revealing delicate and precise flesh on the mid-palate, with hints of liquorice, violet and cassis. Tannins turning fat towards the finish. A delicious and superbly aromatic performance, packed with taste. A gorgeous bottle. From 2012 and before 2025. This 2004 is superior to the 2003. LEOVILLE BARTON Saint-Julien 2003 16,75 // 91 Deep dark red, almost black; very youthful. Fruity and fresh on the nose, showing no trace of evolution. Complex upon stirring. Decanting the wine does not alter its performance. Superbly melting tactile feel on the palate throughout, with supple flesh but not terribly expressive. Tannic on finish. Average length. From 2013 and before 2030. LEOVILLE LAS CASES Saint-Julien 2004 17,5 // 94 This comparative tasting was held at the Château, with a non-decanted bottle and a bottle decanted 2 hours prior to tasting. Score for the non-decanted bottle: 17 // 92. Score for the bottle decanted 2 hours prior to the tasting: 17.5 // 94. This tasting was organized following the sampling of two faulty bottles (scores: 15.75 // 88 and 16 // 88-89) from a private cellar. Intense deep colour. Complex on the nose, creamy, with hints of coffee and smoke - and yet the nose here again shows the harsh note of varnish that we came across in the bottles we sampled at the private tasting. Broad on the palate, fleshy, and above all extremely fresh. Creamy feel on the palate, picking up more breadth and depth on finish. Savoury and elegant in the persistence, with no harshness whatsoever. From 2012 and before 2025. LEOVILLE LAS CASES Saint-Julien 2003 I did not have the opportunity to taste this 2003 again. LÉOVILLE POYFERRÉ Saint-Julien 2004 17,25 // 93 Intense purplish crimson with dark hues. Decanted or non-decanted, both bottles are quite similar on the nose, with spices and ripe fruits. Superb on entry, fleshy and even opulent then aromatic and juicy, laden with fruit, savoury and dense on the palate. Melting in the persistence - luckily the firm character displayed on finish is beautifully undermined by the superb aromas. Gorgeous length. A true success. From 2012 and before 2025. LÉOVILLE POYFERRÉ Saint-Julien 2003 17,75 // 94 - 95 Youthful glossy red. Similar fresh and above all deep nose of ripe fruits for both decanted and non-decanted bottles. Superbly broad and creamy on entry, then revealing layers of aromas and a rich and full character on the mid-palate – yet melting throughout. Definitely enhanced by decantation, which reveals hints of violet and flowers unique to the cru. Fresh and with exotic notes on finish. Superb length. A real stunner! From 2013 and before 2030. LES FIEFS DE LAGRANGE Saint-Julien 2004 14,5 // 85 Still youthful red. Fruity on the nose. Aromatic and attractive on the palate, with no harsh tannins. Very pleasant wine to enjoy now and before 2014. LES FIEFS DE LAGRANGE Saint-Julien 2003 15 // 86 This wine stands out thanks to a brighter red colour than many a second wine. Pleasantly fresh throughout–whether the bottle is decanted or not. Mellow and rather fleshy on the palate, with taste in the persistence. Ready to drink now and before 2013. MOULIN DE LA ROSE Saint-Julien 2004 15,5 // 87 - 88 Youthful intense dark-hued wine. When decanted, the nose becomes quite pleasantly solar. Broad, generous and aromatic on the palate, then silky and savoury. Medium-bodied throughout. Now and before 2020. MOULIN DE LA ROSE Saint-Julien 2003 15,25 // 87 Dark- hued wine, slightly evolved. Nose of fruits, with hints of cream. It does not need decantation to give out its best expression – actually quite moreish. Decanting the wine favours the palate. It is then broader, more generous, leading to a savoury finish with slightly marked but well-coated tannins. Average length. Now and before 2020. MOULIN RICHE Saint-Julien 2004 14 // 84 Crammed with fruits and taste; showing no harshness on finish; a touch green in the persistence. Drink now and before 2014. MOULIN RICHE Saint-Julien 2003 14,5 // 85 Dark-hued wine, slightly evolved. Nose of fruit. Round on the palate, with plenty of taste on the mid-palate and marked tannins on finish. Before 2013. SAINT PIERRE (Sevaistre) Saint-Julien 2004 16,5 - 16,75 // 90 - 91 Glossy red with dark-hues. Wonderfully fresh nose, crammed with fruit, with hints of blackberry preserve and smoke. On the palate, this Saint Pierre boasts delicately soft flesh which is well enhanced by decantation. Caressing and melting on the palate. Gaining is depth on finish, with impeccably well-coated tannins. A stunner – with more fat than the 2003. Make sure you decant it. From 2012 and before 2025. SAINT PIERRE (Sevaistre) Saint-Julien 2003 16,5 // 90 Gorgeous deep red with dark hues, hardly evolved at all. Subtle nose of fruit, vanilla, smoke, with a pinch of dried fruits. More complex on the palate when the wine has been decanted. Revealing complex layers of fat and fruits. Loses a little body on finish but shows no tannic harshness whatsoever, which bodes well for its ageing potential. From 2013 and before 2030. SARGET DE GRUAUD LAROSE Saint-Julien 2004 14,25 // 84 - 85 Needs to be decanted for the nose to give out its best. Fruity on the palate, with average body and no harshness on finish, but simple overall. Ready to drink now and before 2014. SARGET DE GRUAUD LAROSE Saint-Julien 2003 14 // 84 Simple on the palate, ending on a tannic note but with no dryness. Ready to drink now and before 2013. TALBOT Saint-Julien 2004 15,5 // 87 - 88 Animal on the nose and more rustic when the wine has not been decanted – more open when decanted. Incredibly more voluptuous and expressive on the palate when decanted. Savoury, a little flabby and dull but showing no faults in its tannins. 2004 is superior to 2003. Ready to drink now and before 2020. TALBOT Saint-Julien 2003 15,25 // 87 Gorgeous dark-hued colour, a touch evolved. Aromatic nose, creamy when decanted. The decanted bottle offers the best expression on the palate. Rather aromatic on the whole but of average length –the only feature not rising above average for this wine. It stands out from its peers: softer, less fleshy, with less dash and dryish hints in the persistence. Drink now and before 2020. _________________________________________________________ Saint-Julien 1996 Unless otherwise stated, the wines were all decanted at the last minute. BEYCHEVELLE Saint-Julien 1996 15,5 - 15,75 // 88 The colour is evolved. The nose gives out its best when the wine has been decanted, which enhances the cedar wood, plum and smoke bouquet – with a dash of vanilla. Supple and laden with fruit on entry then caressing and crammed with taste. Power and body take time to reveal themselves on the palate. Aromatic in the persistence but with no great power. More body would really have done it credit. Ready to drink now and before 2016. BRANAIRE Saint-Julien 1996 Superb on the nose but surprisingly stiff on finish. I believe the bottle was not representative of the cru. To be tasted again. CLOS DU MARQUIS Saint-Julien 1996 16,5 // 90 Tasted non-decanted. A wonderful surprise. Evolved in colour; showing a complex cedar wood and fruit bouquet on the nose; silky and subtle on the palate, with plenty of aromas and an elegant tactile feel throughout. Superb balance. Delicious and long finish. Ready to drink and before 2010. DULUC Saint-Julien 1996 13,75 // 83 A touch acidic on the palate despite beautiful aromas. Should have been drunk already. GRUAUD LAROSE Saint-Julien 1996 16 // 88 - 89 The colour is evolved. Cedar wood and red fruit bouquet on the nose. Pulpy on entry then revealing layers of tastes backed by well-coated tannins. A shame the body is not consistent right through to the finish. Ready to drink now and before 2016. LAGRANGE Saint-Julien 1996 16,75 // 91 Intense red, showing slight signs of evolution on the fringe. Nose of spices and fruit for both decanted and non-decanted bottles. Beautifully juicy on entry then run through with savours, flesh and dash. Boasting a powerful body throughout. Mellow and almost sweet on the mid-palate and yet long on finish over fine-grained tannins. Utterly delicious. Ready to drink now and before 2020. This Lagrange was the most modern-style wine of the line-up. LANGOA BARTON Saint-Julien 1996 16,5 // 90 Intensely bright red, slightly evolved. Beautifully suave on the nose. Pulpy on entry when decanted then revealing layers of aromas, fat, dash, body and plenty of softness. A truly pleasant and enjoyable wine with liquorice in the persistence backed by refine and delicately woven tannins. Utterly delicious. Ready to drink now and before 2020. LEOVILLE BARTON Saint-Julien 1996 The bottle was faulty, the wine spoilt by traces of cork. LEOVILLE LAS CASES Saint-Julien 1996 17,75 - 18 // 95 If this wine is not decanted at all, or if it is decanted at the last minute, it is a touch acidic on finish. When decanted, it boasts much more depth and complexity on the mid-palate and then becomes fat, savoury and long on finish. It is far more enticing too, even if still quite young. 1996 was the last vintage supervised by the current cellar master’s (Bruno Rolland) father. Ready to drink now and before 2025. LÉOVILLE POYFERRÉ Saint-Julien 1996 15,75 // 88 The colour is slightly evolved. Ripe fruit bouquet with hints of oak on the nose. Fleshy on entry, a touch withdrawn on the mid-palate and medium-bodied. The wine picks up momentum again on finish and reveals plenty of taste and firm and a little old-style tannins. I am not certain cellaring it much longer will enhance it further. Ready to drink now and before 2016. LES FIEFS DE LAGRANGE Saint-Julien 1996 14,5 // 85 Lovely and rather delicate nose of fruit and vanilla when decanted. Pleasant on the palate, with good presence on the mid-palate, taste and hints of sap on finish. Now or wait until 2015. SARGET DE GRUAUD LAROSE Saint-Julien 1996 13,75 // 83 Light on the palate and over-simple on finish. Should have been drunk already. TALBOT Saint-Julien 1996 15 // 86 The colour is slightly evolved, the nose a touch earthy, with animal overtones when decanted. Soft on entry then caressing and medium-bodied. Notes of blood and stewed meat on finish, with tannins a touch dry. The pleasure score is not terribly high for this wine. It should have been drunk already. The next report will be available on line, on July 1st. Kind regards Jean-Marc Quarin

2011 Chronicles

Chronicle 114 and 115. Saint-Julien 2004, 2003 and 1996

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