Chronicle n° 125: wine review : Tasting notes on 33 champagnes

Wine review : Tasting notes on 33 champagnes Chronicle n°125 (December 22d, 2011) Here are the tasting notes for 33 champagnes that were reviewed at tastings held recently by champagne houses in Paris and Bordeaux. A few comments: On the whole, I found too many bottles were clearly on the oxidative side. Although it gives a welcome exotic note to these wines, produced in a cool area, it does not bode well for the future bouquet. A hint of old apple often hinders the notes of hazelnut and dried fruit. Only Moët et Chandon, Ruinart and Billecart Salmon successfully strive for a fresher and crispier character. Many lack body, i.e a significant presence on the mid-palate, even among the most prestigious cuvees, which lack complexity to reach the grand vin status. The only exceptions are Dom Perignon, Dom Ruinart and the Cuvée des Enchanteurs 1995 by Henriot which was sampled from a magnum. Generally speaking, the price difference between the top and the mid-range cuvées is not justified. Grades and notes are extremely close and the gratification scores similar. If the pleasure of delicate beads bursting on the palate is your top criterion, you can’t beat Bollinger - even if it could do with a more radiant nose. Remember that the best containers for champagne, even more so than for any other wine, are by far magnums. BILLECART SALMON Grande cuvée Nicolas François 2000 Score out of 20 : 16,75 Score out of 100 : 91 Around 71 euros. Pale straw colour. Dainty discreet beads. Refine and clear nose of fruit, slightly smoked with no hint of oxidation. Subtle and delicately reduced. Does not linger on the mid-palate but subtly melting and unfurling fresh and delicate flavours through to the sappy finish. Average length. Excellent value for money. BILLECART SALMON Blanc de blanc grand cru Score out of 20 : 16 Score out of 100 : 88-89 Around 50 euros. A 100% Chardonnay cuvée. Pale straw. Fresh and elegant nose of fruit. Softly melting on the palate, with breadth and plenty of taste. Definitely floral. Superb balance throughout and a salty tang in the persistence. Great length. BILLECART SALMON Brut rosé Score out of 20 : 15,75-16 Score out of 100 : 88 Around 50 euros. Surprising straw-ish colour for a rosé. Distinctive blossom and buttery notes on the nose. Ethereal and full on the palate then melting and smoky. Deliciously tasty finish of average length. Well made. BILLECART SALMON Brut réserve Score out of 20 : 15,75 Score out of 100 : 87-88 Around 32 euros. Pale straw in colour. Refine and subtle nose with hints of lemon peel. Melting and laden with tastes on the palate, showing nuances and balance through to the average length. A touch catchy on finish – will work very well with food. Very good value for money. BOLLINGER La grande année 2002 Score out of 20 : 16 Score out of 100 : 88-89 Around 89 euros. Pale straw colour. Rather complex on the nose but the oxidative note really bothered me. Outstanding balance on the palate, but could do with more vibrant savours. Delicately bursting beads on finish. All roundness and pulp from start to finish. BOLLINGER rosé Score out of 20 : 16 Score out of 100 : 88-89 Around 65 euros. Salmon pink in colour. Rather oxidised on the nose but wonderfully appealing on the palate, with superb balance and enticing beads. Becoming tighter and sappy after the mid-palate through to a superb and slightly tannic length. Shame about the nose. BOLLINGER Spéciale cuvée Score out of 20 : 16 Score out of 100 : 88-89 Around 40 euros. Pretty persistent beads. Toast and extremely ripe pears on the nose– perhaps a touch over-ripe. Wonderfully delicate and subtle tactile feel on the palate. Melting and showing good presence on the mid-palate and on finish. Savours a touch oxidative but very good length all the same. SALON 1999 Score out of 20 : 16 Score out of 100 : 88-89 Around 315 euros. Pale straw colour with discreet beads and a smoky nose. Pretty and refine entry giving way to an attractive pulp, layers of fruit and taste, but revealing an average body. Does not linger much on finish. I expected more. DELAMOTTE Blanc de blancs Score out of 20 : 15,75 Score out of 100 : 88 Around 41 euros. Pale straw colour and discreet beads. Nose of extremely ripe fruit – not so complex as some. Pretty and lively entry leading to a melting, graceful and delicate performance with floral notes. A successful and attractive mix of suave and fresh notes, but the length is a touch simple. Will work really well as an aperitif. DOM PERIGNON Vintage 2002 Score out of 20 : 16,75 Score out of 100 : 88 Around 135 euros. Pale straw colour. Clear, subtle and reduced nose of fruit, with notes of lemon peel. Dainty and melted on the palate with plenty of flavours and fruit – elegant from start to finish. Good length, a touch vivid but savoury all the same. The slight acidic note is Dom Perignon’s Achilles’ heel and I am curious to see how they have approached the 2003. Definitely in a class of its own - with no trace of oxidation whatsoever - and built for the future. HENRIOT Cuvée des enchanteleurs 1995 Score out of 20 : 16,75-17 Score out of 100 : 91-92 Around 100 euros. Tasted from a magnum. A blend of 50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot noir. Delicate and persistent beads. Bright-yellow in colour. Intense nose of ripe fruit with hints of hazelnut. On the oxidative side. Superbly broad entry. Quite a wine! Aromatic, fat and perky at the same time. Shame about the sudden drop in body on finish even if radiant aromas surge back lively, mineral and smoky. The magnum worked wonders here. Excellent value for money. HENRIOT Cuvée des enchanteleurs 1996 Score out of 20 : 15,75 Score out of 100 : 88 Around 75 euros. This time the nose is unmistakably oxidative, with notes of cocoa and butter - a touch vegetal. Mellow and rather dense on the palate leading to a beautiful presence on the mid-palate with spicy overtones - but unfortunately too oxidative. A shame, really. HENRIOT millésimé 2002 Score out of 20 : 15,25 Score out of 100 : 87 Around 50 euros. Shame about the nose - too oxidative. Showing lovely toasted savours and a body of average intensity - a touch too linear - on the palate. The fruit is ripe, the length average. HENRIOT Brut souverain Score out of 20 : 15,25 Score out of 100 : 87 Around 32 euros. Pretty nose of fruit - unfortunately a touch stewed. Pleasant on the palate, lively and melting through to an average length. JACQUESSON millésime 2002 Score out of 20 : 16 Score out of 100 : 88-89 Around 69 euros. Pale straw in colour. Oxidative nose. Soft and subtle on the palate, with flavours, but lacking presence on the mid-palate. Not terribly powerful but ethereal and ending on a pleasant and average persistence. JACQUESSON cuvée 735 Score out of 20 : 15,5 Score out of 100 : 87-88 Around 35 euros. Pale straw colour. Oxidative nose. Fruity and delicate on the palate, but lacking crispiness. Average length. LAURENT PERRIER Grand Siècle Score out of 20 : 16 Score out of 100 : 88-89 Around 105 euros. Pale straw with persistent and discreet beads. Intense floral and buttery nose. Pretty entry with plenty of fat. Daintily bursting beads, a hint of alcohol - but lacking fullness on the mid-palate. Lively, pleasant length on finish. I expected more. LAURENT PERRIER Millésime 2002 Score out of 20 : 15,75 Score out of 100 : 88 Around 38 euros. Discreet beads. Refine, fresh and clean nose of fruit -very Chardonnay. Melting and bursting with fruit and persistent beads on the palate. Ethereal and rather tight. Pleasant, average length on finish. Quite a graceful wine for the money. MOËT ET CHANDON Grand Vintage 1995 Score out of 20 : 16,5 Score out of 100 : 90 Price undisclosed. Straw colour with green hues. Delicate beads. Discreet nose, slightly toasted and reduced, reminiscent of cold roasted chicken skin – typical of this Champagne house. Pretty and subtle entry giving way to a regal, full and tasty performance on the mid-palate. A drop in intensity on finish before flavours surge back up again. MOËT ET CHANDON Grand Vintage rosé 2002 Score out of 20 : 15,5 Score out of 100 : 87-88 Around 52 euros. Salmon pink in colour. Rather simple nose of fruit, with a smoky note and a drop of grenadine. Round and fruity on the palate, but not focussed on length. Pleasantly elaborated but lacking a certain je ne sais quoi for a truly subtle finish. At its best upfront. MOËT ET CHANDON Grand Vintage 2002 Score out of 20 : 15,75 Score out of 100 : 88 Around 50 euros. Bright-yellow in colour. Refine, smoked and reduced nose with hints of cold roasted chicken – very Moët. Broad, tasty and beautifully balanced on the palate, with deliciously melting beads. Round on the mid-palate. Could do with more complexity on finish, even if showing lovely sap in the persistence. PHILIPPONNAT Clos des Goisses 1998 Score out of 20 : 15,75 Score out of 100 : 88 Around 94 euros. Clear light gold in colour. Oxidative nose of cocoa. Melting and soft on the palate – extremely pleasant but a touch oxidative. Simple finish with a slightly catchy (dry) note. PHILIPPONNAT Cuvée 1522 Millésime 2000 Score out of 20 : 15,5 Score out of 100 : 87-88 Around 55 euros. Pretty beads. Oxidative nose of cocoa. Melting on the palate, with average body and persistent bubbles. Average length on finish, a touch austere. PHILIPPONNAT Royale Réserve non dosée Score out of 20 : 15,5 Score out of 100 : 87-88 Price undisclosed. Bright-yellow in colour. Refine persistent beads. Nose of ripe fruit – a touch oxidative. Lively and aromatic on the palate – a mix of fresh lemony notes and oxidative touches (old apple). A touch austere on finish. DOM RUINART 2002 Score out of 20 : 16,75-17 Score out of 100 : 91-92 Around 140 euros. A 100% Chardonnay and 100% grand cru cuvée. Pale straw in colour. Delicate beads. Intense nose of spices and smoke – refine and extremely reduced. Showing great presence and breadth right from entry. Evenly balanced stimulation between entry, mid-palate and finish. Suave, mineral, delicately buttery and persistent notes. Elegant in the persistence. A joy to drink. One of the few that boasted a long lingering finish. RUINART rosé Score out of 20 : 15,5 Score out of 100 : 87-88 Around 57 euros. Salmon pink in colour. Nose of fruit and spices that could do with more vibrancy. Reduced and smoky notes. Gorgeous entry leading to a broad and a suave character on the mid-palate but unfortunately a touch austere on finish - a shame, really. Average length. A generous body all the same. VEUVE CLICQUOT La grande dame 1996 Score out of 20 : 15 Score out of 100 : 86 Around 140 euros. Pale shimmering gold. Too oxidative on the nose. Simple on the palate. AYALA zéro dosage Score out of 20 : 15,25 Score out of 100 : 87 Around 28 euros. Bright yellow in colour. Fresh, vibrant and lemony nose, but oxidative too. Melting and soft on the palate with a hint of lemon peel on finish. Quite enjoyable, but simple. AYALA brut majeur Score out of 20 : 15 Score out of 100 : 86 Around 27 euros. A dosage of 9 to 10 g/l. Similar nose to that of non-dosed champagnes. Showing fat on the palate and crisp acidity on finish, but the mid-palate is somewhat slack. A simple bottle. AYALA Blanc de blanc millésime 2004 Score out of 20 : 15,5 Score out of 100 : 87-88 Around 42 euros. Pale straw in colour. Intense nose of fruit, but oxidative. Pleasant on the palate, with spices, sparkling beads and an average body. Average but sappy length. CHARLES HEIDSIECK Brut réserve Score out of 20 : 15 Score out of 100 : 86 Around 29 euros. An enjoyable bottle showing a clean and pure nose, enough presence on the palate, but simple on finish. CHARLES HEIDSIECK millésime 2000 Score out of 20 : 15,75-16 Score out of 100 : 88 Price undisclosed Intense colour. Pretty, smoked nose of toast with a hint of hazelnut. Pleasant on the palate, revealing a melting body with plenty of flavours and delicate, persistent beads. A wonderfully long and tasty champagne, easy to fall for. CHARLES HEIDSIECK Blanc des millénaires 1995 Score out of 20 : 15,75-16 Score out of 100 : 88 Around 95 euros. I tasted it decanted and non-decanted. The nose is more intense and refine when non-decanted. Subtle, suave and pulpy on the palate. Showing finesse throughout, but with a touch of oxidation in the persistence - despite the youthful crispiness and acidity. Average length. I wish you all a very merry Christmas and a happy new year. The next chronicle with be put on line on January 20th. Jean-Marc Quarin JM Quarin ___________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010. This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@wanadoo.fr. The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

2011 Chronicles

Chronicle n° 125: wine review : Tasting notes on 33 champagnes

Subscribe

Subscription

Wine name	(Producer, appellation, etc.)