2011 Bordeaux Futures: First results

Report 1- April 4, 2012Bordeaux 2011– scores for 636 crus available on my website www.quarin.com . To download the document, go to “Reports” then “ Last Report ” and click on “see the full report”. Use your email address to log in. If you have forgotten your password, you can retrieve it by clicking on “forgotten password?” ___________________________________________ En Primeur Bordeaux 2011 A vintage of mixed quality for the reds, excellent sweet whites - with Barsac outshining Sauternes - and top quality dry whites. Part one: About the vintageEn Primeur Bordeaux 2011 – what we already know about the vintage and what we are about to uncover. A fine classic wine will stimulate the whole of your palate from entry to finish. The magic and the breadth of this stimulation are the results of the input of man and, above all, of favourable climatic conditions. Generally speaking, warm sunny days in June-July are necessary for the red varieties to concentrate their berries and for the wine to structure its body. If the weather holds and remains hot through to the end of August, with the occasional rainfall, the body will then strengthen its mid-palate. And, if a warm August gives way to mild weather, or even to warm daytime temperatures, in September and October, the cabernets sauvignons and the cabernets francs will then mature their tannins to the full and smooth out any rough angle, marked tannins or even dryness on finish - what actually impairs the quality of a wine. Without a fat silky texture and a melted tactile feel on the palate, there are no good wines, let alone fine wines. How does 2011 compare to this textbook example? In 2011, spring was exceptionally hot and dry – 4.5° above average temperatures – which kick-started early budding, even flowering and generous fruit set and bore the promise of a plentiful yield to come. As sunny hot weather settled over Bordeaux, the vines soon put their growth on halt and focussed on maturing and concentrating their berries. A promising start indeed! In July, each estate’s situation became unique in the face of persistent lack of rain. The vineyards planted on limestone or on clayey-limestone sub-soils providing steady water supply were little affected by the lasting dry weather - as opposed to the plots on graves sub-soils. The right bank - Saint-Emilion, Fronsac, Pomerol - was thriving whereas the vineyards in the Medoc and Graves appellations could really feel the strain. Even within the Medoc area itself, the appellation Medoc, with more limestone sub-soils, was less severely hit by the lack of water than the AOC Haut-Médoc, with more graves sub-soils. The pattern was similar between Barsac (limestone) and Sauternes (gravel soil) for sweet whites. Never have I seen such discrepancy in wines at this early stage - and we won’t even mention the young plots on graves or sandy soil, which lost their leaves very early on and never actually managed to bring their berries to full maturity. If 2011 is today referred to as a successful year for the best terroirs, we need to understand for the old vines on clayey and clayey-limestone soils, which did not suffer from the lack of water. Luckily, July was cooler than usual – a real relief in the areas where the shortage of water was becoming a major concern. Had the temperatures reached their usual peaks, the vines would not have been able to mature their berries properly. Some batches bear the mark of this lack of maturity – they are dry on the palate. It is now down to the estates not to select them for the final blends. Slightly more rain than average fell and helped veraison. As it fell unevenly over the Bordeaux area, the differences between the appellations were further increased. More rainfall was recorded South of Bordeaux, in the Graves area and around Sauternes than in the North (Medoc) or in the East (Libournais). Fine August weather is absolutely vital for a structured mid-palate. With 80 mm of rain – compared to the usual average of 60 mm – August 2011 was wetter than previous years but remained reasonably warm throughout. It became obvious to me then that the 2011s would neither be rich nor full on the mid-palate but rather linear and lifted. As the month drew to a close, the question on everyone’s lips was whether September would be fine enough to add a compelling touch to the finish. On September 1, a violent thunderstorm hit Bordeaux and 80 mm of water fell over the vineyards in just a few hours. In Saint-Estèphe and parts of Saint-Emilion, it turned into a devastating hailstorm and left many a plot at Cos d’Estournel, Montrose, Cos Labory, De Pez, and Le Crock in ruins. So much water so close to harvesting time was cause for concern. Fearing rot, many started bringing in the red varieties as early as September 5. But lovely warm weather was back on September 10, which definitely uplifted the spirit of those pushing for a later harvest. It also meant less stress in the vineyards where picking was under way and no mad rush before the autumn equinox tides - when the weather traditionally turns in the Gironde. The rain that fell on September 19 convinced those who had started bringing in early that they had been right to do so. But yet again, rain gave way to warm daytime temperatures and cool nights that kept grey rot at bay. Many commented on healthier and high quality berries which had gained in taste and showed higher alcohol content (see Chronicles 119 & 120). Whatever the estate, the key word was “sorting”. Berries affected by scalding, uneven colouring or grey rot had to be ruthlessly eliminated and Bordeaux buzzed with frenetic sorting on an unprecedented scale. (Videos of the new sorting techniques will soon be available on my website). So, September 2011 was by no means the ideal month that could make up for what August had not managed to achieve, as the 2002, 2004, 2007 and 2008 Indian summers had done. The harvest dates were incredibly spread out, depending on the state of each individual plot, each estate’ s goals and ambitions, observations and beliefs – so much so that some had already put away their harvesting tools in Barsac when others had not even started on the merlots in Saint-Emilion – a first in Bordeaux! And even if we knew 2011 had not quite been the perfect textbook example to have the makings of a great year, it was still very difficult to predict what would come out of a vintage whose cycle had been so early and that was actually brought in as a late ripening crop. End of part one. To find out about the impact of the weather pattern on the 2011s and their style, do not miss part 2 of my introduction to the Bordeaux 2011 En Primeur - to be published tomorrow. My tasting notes will be available from Tuesday, April 10, 2012. Kind regards. Jean-Marc Quarin __________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010.This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@quarin.com The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

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2011 Bordeaux Futures: First results

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