Bordeaux 2011 en primeur results (Part 5)

Phone number and email adress have changed: New phone number: 0033951067542 New e-mail address: jmquarin@quarin.comReport 5 (April, 16th) Saint-Emilion - 150 wine reviews Part 1 – 40 wine reviews.2011 is a successful year in Saint-Emilion – as I have explained in greater detail in my introduction to the en primeur coverage. Looking at the scores, the vintage is on a par with 2006 though stylistically, those two vintages are very different. 2011 shows less body but is backed by more elegant and refine tannins on finish. The cabernets francs thrived in 2011 and gave a linear and perfumed profile to the vintage. On the whole, alcohol contents are good, pH low (leading to more perky and dynamic wines) and the expression of fruit beautifully ripe. Tannins index can vary depending on when the grapes were brought in and can reach high levels too. 2011 was a challenging year. The climatic ups and downs meant constant watch and quick adaptation from winemakers, clever and swift decision-making and a heavier workload than in 2009 and 2010. Scores from 15 (86) upwards point to the most dynamic estates. Below that score, the wines show less substance, length and personality. This year, such wines are all extremely similar. I have simply given them scores. The price will make all the difference and they will be best enjoyed within the next 10 years. Below the 14 (84) threshold, the wines lack substance, length, fruit and a real quality of tannins. Even if cheap, they are of no interest. The wines marked 15 and above boast better structures and will happily wait till 2020 and 2035.Ever since 2000, there has been a steady increase in quality in Saint-Emilion – 2006 being the turning point for many estates. It is important for professionals and wine-enthusiasts alike to know which estates to look out for. Bearing in mind a property needs the best part of 10 years for its efforts to be acknowledged by the trade and press, I suggest you take a closer look at the following crus before their newly acquired fame adds a premium to their current price tags: Barde Haut, Belair-Monange (whose scores will rise to Ausone et Cheval Blanc’s level within the next 10 years), Bellevue, Boutisse, Cadet Bon, Canon (set to take the lead of the first classed B growths in Saint Emilion in 5 or 6 vintages from now), Capet Guillet, Chauvin, Clos des Jacobins, Clos Romanille, Corbin, Côte de Baleau, Faurie de Souchard, Fonbel, Fonroque, Godeau, Grand Corbin d’Espagne, Grand Pontet, Jean Faure, La Clotte, La Fleur d’Arthus, La Gaffelière, La Marzelle, La Tour du Pin, Larcis Ducasse, Larmande, Laroze, Le Prieuré, Louis, Moulin Saint Georges, Petit Cheval, Sansonnet, Soutard, Villemaurine.And don’t forget the crus whose quality has been consistent in years. ADAUGUSTA St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,75 // 85 - 86 ANGÉLUS St-Emilion Grand Cru 17,25 // 93 Rich, deep purplish crimson. Subtle, fresh and floral nose of ripe fruit. Superbly caressing entry leading to a seductive and delicately pulpy palate. Generous and dense with a vibrant expression of fruit pointing to a high percentage of cabernet franc. Long lingering and powerful finish, wonderfully refine in its taste, texture and tannins. Utterly delicious. AUSONE St-Emilion Grand Cru 17,5 // 94 Refine nose of ripe fruit with floral overtones. Superb and juicy entry leading to a detailed and wonderfully tasty palate boasting glamorous flesh. The wine takes its time on the mid-palate then picks up power and taste. Great sappy finish backed by fine-grained tannins and hints of spice coming through in the persistence. BALESTARD LA TONNELLE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 Pretty and utterly pleasant mid-weight wine showing fruit and well-coated tannins. Average length. BARDE HAUT St-Emilion Grand Cru 16 // 88 - 89 Extremely dark purplish crimson with garnet hues. Lush fragrant nose of fruit, cocoa and vanilla. Mellow palate, laden with fruit and boasting a refine tactile feel. High calibre, tightly knit frame on finish. Impossible not to swallow. Good length. Not to be missed. BARRAIL SAINT ANDRE St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,75 // 85 - 86 BEAU SÉJOUR BÉCOT St-Emilion Grand Cru 16,75 // 91 Deep red with rich garnet hues. Clean and subtle nose of fruit and fresh cream. Plump and aromatic on the tasty and substantial palate. Refine tactile feel. Softness of the palate and vibrancy of the fruit wonderfully balanced. Beautifully layered and complex finish with fine-grained tannins. A blend of 70% merlot, 25% cabernet franc and 5% cabernet sauvignon. Alcohol content: 14°3. Yield: 35hl/ha. Gérard Bécot points out that in 2011, he picked his best cabernets francs ever.BEAUSÉJOUR DUFFAU LAGARROSSE St-Emilion Grand Cru 16,75 - 17 // 91 - 92 Beautiful deep purplish crimson with garnet hues. Intense clean and refine nose of fruit – with scents of damson liqueur. Soft and suave entry leading to a silky fat and aromatic palate, laden with fruit. Showing the characteristically linear profile of the cru. Run through with taste to the lingering length with tannins coming to the fore a little. Alcohol content: 14°7. A blend of 80% merlot and 20% cabernet franc.BEL AIR OUY St-Emilion Grand Cru 14 // 84 BELAIR-MONANGE St-Emilion Grand Cru 16,25 - 16,5 // 89 - 90 Deep purplish crimson. Ripe fruit on the clean, refine and floral nose. Delicate pulp showing through, with lovely taste of cherry. Mid-weight deliciously suave palate through to the good lingering length backed by soft tannins. Extremely pleasant. BELLEFONT BELCIER St-Emilion Grand Cru 16 // 88 - 89 Bright glossy red with black hues. Ripe fruit on the subtle and refine nose. Silky and ethereal palate showing substantial yet deliciously melting body. Stylish and detailed finish with high quality aromas and gorgeous tactile feel. Compelling wine – obviously from a great terroir. Highly recommended. BELLEVUE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,75 - 16 // 88 Purplish crimson. Refine nose with hints of raspberry. Juicy, vibrant and detailed expression of fruit. Precise in its structure. Tannins coming slightly to the fore on finish but lovely and delicious presence. Average length. BELLEVUE MONDOTTE St-Emilion Grand Cru 16 // 88 - 89 Deep red with rich garnet hues. Extremely ripe fruit on the nose – quite fresh, which is a first for the cru. Plump seductive fruit - more gently extracted than in the past. Still really marked by oak. BERGAT St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 Deep red with rich garnet hues. Nose of fruit, cream and vanilla. Mellow on entry then revealing layers of aromas and pulp on the mid-palate. Run through with fruit. A touch firm on finish. The elevage should soften its rough edges. Average length. A blend of 54% merlot, 40% cabernet franc and 6% cabernet sauvignon. BERLIQUET St-Emilion Grand Cru 16 // 88 - 89 Deep red with rich garnet hues. Clean nose of fruit, vanilla and liquorice with hints of black fruits. Pretty and soft entry with plenty of fruit, leading to a juicy tasty and aromatic palate backed by refine tannins and good presence in the mouth. A touch brisk in the persistence. A blend of 75% merlot, 22% cabernet franc; 3% cabernet sauvignon. Alcohol content: 13°8. pH: 3.35BOUTISSE St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,75 // 85 - 86 CADET BON St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,5 - 15,75 // 87 - 88 Deep red garnet hue. Clean nose of ripe fruit. Pretty and attractive wine with well-built and savoury palate developing flesh and taste and backed with well-coated tannins – the best I have ever seen at the estate. Beginning to reap the rewards of hard work and drive. Elegant savoury finish.CADET PIOLA St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,25 - 15,5 // 87 Cadet Piola’s vibrant expression of fruit on finish, the wine’s signature, is back. Average length. I’m certain it would be even better if the grapes were brought in at an more mature stage. CANON St-Emilion Grand Cru 16,75 // 91 Deep rich garnet hue, one of the brightest ever seen at the estate. Clean nose of fruit, with floral touches and notes of cocoa and black fruits. The palate is back to its glorious former self : refine flesh, volume, lush ripe fruit and caressing tactile feel with wonderful nuances in the extraction of tannins. We can find a taste of Vosne-Romanée in its very unique style in Saint-Emilion. The elevage could well make it even mightier. A beauty – on a par with the 2010. A blend of 30% cabernet franc, 70% merlot. Yield: 35hl/ha.CANON LA GAFFELIERE St-Emilion Grand Cru 16,5 // 90 Deep red with rich garnet hues. Discreet and subtle nose of fruit. Attractive and plump entry. Superb tactile feel on the palate. Good intensity. Wonderfully fresh floral notes. Suave and savoury lingering finish. Good length. Lovely. A blend of 60% merlot, 32% cabernet franc, 8% cabernet sauvignon.CANTENAC St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 CAP DE MOURLIN St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,75 // 85 - 86 CAPET GUILLIER St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,25 // 87 The estate, which has been running since 2009, is situated after Lassègue on the edge of Saint-Emilion. 3 ha are planted on the hillside and make the Capet Guillier property and 12 ha are planted in the plain. Deep red with rich garnet hues. Extremely ripe nose with a slight note of oxidation. Soft, plump and savoury palate with lush fruit, taste and beautifully coated tannins. Average lenth.CARILLON DE L'ANGELUS St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 Fairly intense red with garnet hues. Nose of fruit with a meaty edge to it. Mellow palate, packed with fruit and as hedonistic as ever. Average length on finish backed by well-coated tannins. Attractive and pleasant.CARTEAU CÔTES DAUGAY St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,5 // 85 CHAPELLE D'AUSONE (LA) St-Emilion Grand Cru 16 // 88 - 89 Beautiful deep rich garnet hue. Delicate truffle notes and fruit on the nose. Refine entry leading to a juicy tasty and melting mid-weight palate. Sappy fresh finish with lingering aromas, lovely raspberry notes and elegant tannins in the persistence. CHAUVIN St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,75 // 88 Bright purplish crimson. Subdued nose of fruit. Detailed and delicately pulpy palate with seductive flesh. Impeccable frame. Great length. Lovely. New reception of grapes, optical sorting machines and above all Laurence Ters’ fine intuition to keep the merlots fresh and vibrant contributed to the success of the vintage. The estate has been redefining its style with great success since 2009.CHEVAL BLANC St-Emilion Grand Cru 17,75 // 94 - 95 The first vintage to come out of the new wine-house and its 44 vats – the first time ever that the team at Cheval Blanc was able to sample each one of the 44 plots individually without having to blend the yields. Thanks to optimum results, 74% of the batches went into the grand vin. Bright rich purplish crimson. Lush, incredibly clean nose, laden with fruit. Immediately broad and generous entry boasting clean taste on the powerful and rich palate – dense, voluptuous, a touch austere, full, lingering and backed by terrific tannins. Magnificent weave of tannins on finish, with sublime aromas taking over the palate. A grand vin indeed, whose grade is likely to go up at the elevage. A blend of 52% cabernet franc and 48% merlot. Alcohol content: 13°2- pH:3.75- IPT:78 CHEVAL NOIR St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,75 // 85 - 86 CLIMAT DE CH.CANTENAC St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,25 - 15,5 // 87 Beautiful purplish crimson. Nose of fruit and vanilla. Juicy entry leading to a fresh, aromatic and at the same time suave and generous palate backed by refine tannins. The most elegant Climat the Cantenac I have ever tasted.CLOS BADON St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,25 // 87 Beautiful deep red. Refine and clean nose of ripe fruit. Pretty and attractive palate packed with taste. Elegant and soft tannic texture. Lovely presence on the mid-palate. Hedonistic finish that invites you to swallow. Beautiful fine wine with becoming cabernets francs.CLOS DE L'ORATOIRE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15 // 86 Fruity, delicately pulpy and tasty mid-weight palate. Vanilla in the persistence. Softness of merlot (90% of the blend) coming through.CLOS DES JACOBINS St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,5 // 87 - 88 Deep purplish crimson. Subdued nose of fruit. Plenty of fruit and delicate flesh on the juicy, and savoury palate. Round mid-palate. Well-coated tannins. Average length.CLOS DES MENUTS Cuvée excellence St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,75 // 85 - 86 CLOS DES PRINCES St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,75 // 85 - 86 CLOS DUBREUIL Saint-Emilion 15,5 // 87-86 Bright purplish crimson. Nose of fruit and vanilla. Suave, plump and round palate. Tannins can be felt but are well-coated. Average length.CLOS FOURTET St-Emilion Grand Cru 17,25 - 17,5 // 93 - 94 Deep red with rich garnet hues. Deft mix of floral and ripe fruit notes on the nose. Superbly broad and juicy entry leading to a complex, fresh, powerful and elegant palate. Juicy and layered through to the mighty finish. Unbelievably delicious. A grand vin indeed.Clos La MADELEINE St-Emilion Grand Cru 14,75 // 85 - 86 CLOS LES GRANDES VERSANNES St-Emilion Grand Cru 13 // 80 CLOS ROMANILE St-Emilion Grand Cru 15,5 // 87 - 88 Birth of an outsider You cannot stay indifferent to the overall and beautiful softness of this cru. You need to sample it several times among others to realize that it is made of a thousand little details: clean nose, delicate reduction showing a true will to keep it away from oxygen, measured fruit, clean toasted notes that point to well-integrated new oak. On the palate, it boasts seductive flesh and refine tannins with nothing overdone and clever extraction. Sensing the commanding power that will be revealed at the elevage always causes a short emotion that I can only find when tasting the greatest labels. When I sampled the 2010 (16.25//89) and the superb 2009 (16.5//90) again, I could not help but rejoice at Sonia and Rémi Dalmasso’s approach. He works as wine-maker for Jean-Luc Thunevin and she tends one hectare of vines. Their philosophy is that of enthusiastic and dedicated wine-lovers. Out of the 3, 000 bottles they produce, half are the first wine, the other half the second vin. A tailor-made wine that reminds me of the approach of Clos Manou and A Nos Amours. Not to be missed. Tel. 00339 61 51 18 81 - email :clos.dalmasso@orange.fr A blend of 90% merlot on clay and 10% cabernet sauvignon around Larmande. More to come…The remaining 110 Saint-Emilion wine-reviews will be put on line tomorrow.Kind regards Jean-Marc Quarin __________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010.This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@quarin.com The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

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Bordeaux 2011 en primeur results (Part 5)

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