Bordeaux 2011 en primeur results (Part 8)

Report 8 (April, 25th)Extra wine reviews to add to the previous report on St Estèphe and Pauillac MEYNEY Saint-Estèphe 15,25 // 87 The estate was hit by hail in parts but still offers a really detailed wine - with very merlot notes coming through on the palate - that will be a real treat once bottled. 11% petit verdot add spices and deliciously tasty notes to the finish. Smooth-bodied and well-coated. HAUT BAGES LIBERAL Pauillac 15,5-15,75 // 88 Deep and intense garnet hue. Scents of ripe fruit on the nose. Surprisingly fat and detailed on the palate this year and less austere than ever before en primeur. Juicy finish and good length. A lovely success that has a lot to do with M. Thomas Bontemps taking over as estate manager at the end of August; he altered the vinification process and opted for gentler extraction adapted to each plot. ________________________________________________ NEW Click on the links below to see three of the videos taken during the harvest 2011 (in French for the time being but the images speak for themselves!). There are 9 more to come. These videos are strictly meant for my subscribers and you are welcome to comment on them. 1- This is rot! http://youtu.be/we7PPaDlCyw 2- Why use optic sorting at Barde Haut? http://youtu.be/4feBKhEsoVk 3- Optic sorting and its advantages. http://youtu.be/BbfiXLTzufo ________________________________________________ MARGAUX 2011: 38 wines As in the other Bordeaux appellations, inconsistency best sums up the 2011 vintage in Margaux. The best performing labels have produced high calibre substantial wines offering fruit, beautiful scents and elegant tannins. As often, pure and fresh fragrances - rather than a powerful character - are their most appealing assets. On June 4th, a devastating hail storm hit the area. The summer drought brought the maturing process to a halt in plots situated on sandy-graves soil. This dehydration not only led to small yields and high tannins index but also induced a weaker and more linear character in the wines produced on the most sandy soils – a situation that reminded me of the 1995 vintage, though in 2011, I found none of the wines presented dry tannins on finish. I believe wine-makers dealt with extraction a step at a time. They claim they intend to tread with similar care during the elevage. Such precision was of course not possible 16 years ago. Clayey sub-soils (Kirwan, d’Issan), as well as cabernet sauvignon-based blends – as opposed to merlot-based blends - stand out very well. However, many labels lack substantial body and this climatically erratic vintage bluntly points at the discrepancies in terroir qualities in an appellation already showing uneven standards. Among the good news, José Sanfins’s interesting approach at Brio de Cantenac is worthy of praise - he strives for immediate gratification without undermining the wine’s body and structure – and Angludet receives a “coup de Coeur” distinction for its great sapidity and its amazing structure laced with enticing aromas. ALTER EGO de PALMER Margaux 15,25 // 87 Bright glossy purple. Fresh scents of fruit on the nose. Soft, pulpy, mid-weight palate. I expected more sap on the mid-palate but it is true to say that hail hit the estate in June. Lovely expression of fruit on finish, which shows the cru is likely to gain range at the elevage. ANGLUDET Margaux 16,5 // 90 Coup de coeur The « D' » disappeared after the 2008 vintage. Extremely bright and glossy purplish crimson. Floral and subtle nose of fruit. Particularly elegant entry then beautifully aromatic, fat and complex on the mid-palate. Laced with silky tannins and run through with sophisticated fat from start to finish. Explosion of elegant flavours on finish. Utterly delicious, impossible not to swallow and boasting incredibly powerful aromas. Dense - but with no marked tannins. A stunner. A blend of 50% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot and 10 % petit verdot. Alcohol content: 13.6 - pH: 3.7 - IPT:79 as in 2010.BRANE CANTENAC Margaux 16,5 // 90 Rich garnet hue. Elegant fruit and floral scents on the subtle nose. Smooth, with lovely tactile finesse and gorgeous fragrances on the substantial palate. Unfurling plenty of taste after the mid-palate before ending on a deliciously juicy and lingering length. Almost Burgundy-like in its style - defined more by tactile and fragrant nuances than by strength and power. A blend of 56.5% cabernet sauvignon -with 0.5% carmenere, which I found a little green), 6% cabernet franc and 37% merlot. Alcohol content: 13°.BRIO DE CANTENAC BROWN Margaux 15,25 - 15,5 // 87 Delicious second vin offering deep scents of black fruits on the nose and a juicy, smooth and tasty palate boasting fat, substantial body and well-coated tannins. 49% merlot - a little more than usual - which makes it really seductive. Lovely.CANTENAC BROWN Margaux 16,5 // 90 Beautiful deep purplish crimson. Clean and lush scents of mature fruit on the nose. Fat on entry then offering voluptuous flesh and generous fruit on the mouth-filling and aromatic palate. Average length and deliciously perfumed persistence. A wine of grace and finesse. A blend of 47% cabernet sauvignon and 33% merlot.CLOS DU JAUGUEYRON Margaux 15,75 // 88 Beautiful dark purplish crimson. Subdued nose of fruit. Smooth entry leading to a pulpy and velvety palate, crammed with fruit and laced with well-coated tannins. Average length. Detailed wine that will mature in absolutely air-tight barrels, which will preserve its lovely freshness until it is bottled. The cru's followers won't be disappointed. D'ISSAN Margaux 16,5 - 16,75 // 90 - 91 Deep garnet hue. Gorgeous scents of ripe fruit and vanilla on the elegant nose. Seductive, beautifully threaded entry leading to juicy pulp and plenty of taste on the delicious palate. Fleshy tannins - a touch more present than usual (IPT superior to 2011) but they should lose their sharp angles at the elevage. Remarkably fragrant and classy finish, laden with taste. A lovely success and the most Pomerol of the Margaux labels, despite the cabernet sauvignon. The estate's clay subsoil was a real blessing this year. A blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot. Yield: 36hl/ha.DAUZAC Margaux 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 DESMIRAIL Margaux 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 DEYREM VALENTIN Margaux 15,25 - 15,5 // 87 Bright purplish crimson. Fragrant on the nose and bursting with fruit on the appetising and substantial palate. Beautiful tactile finesse. Well-coated tannins and average length. DU TERTRE Margaux 15,25 - 15,5 // 87 Fairly intense garnet hue. Complex and refine nose of fruit. Soft, middle-bodied palate laden with fruit. Moderate length. FERRIÈRE Margaux 15,25 - 15,5 // 87 Bright purplish crimson. Fruit and vanilla on the floral nose. Pretty and pulpy entry followed by fat and wonderful aromas unfurling on the mid-weight palate. Tannic but well-coated finish. GISCOURS Margaux 16,5 // 90 Bright glossy purplish crimson with garnet hue. Elegant nose defined by scents of ripe fruit and a lovely floral touch. Pretty and soft entry leading to a fleshy and yet delicate tactile feel on the palate. Smooth and sapid from the mid-palate, the expression of fruit going crescendo on finish. Beautiful, pure, lingering length laced with fine-grained tannins. Very good structure. A beauty. KIRWAN Margaux 16,5 // 90 Beautiful rich purplish crimson. Scents of ripe fruit and vanilla on the nose. Plump entry leading to a fleshy and substantial palate, deliciously juicy right from the mid-palate. Beautifully structured finish offering generously scented tannins on the lingering length. The first time the blend has included so much cabernet: 55% cabernet sauvignon, 15% cabernet franc, 9% petit verdot and 21% merlot. A beauty. L'AURA DE CAMBON Margaux 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 LA BESSANE Margaux 15 // 86 Bright purplish crimson. Scents of extremely ripe fruit on the nose. Pulpy and juicy palate, with lovely fragrances and an average length. LA GURGUE Margaux 15 // 86 Garnet hue. Discreet nose of fruit with delicate hints of spices (petit verdot in the blend). Round, fruity and juicy palate boasting taste and well-coated tannins. Average length on finish. Will gain range and polish at the elevage. LA TOUR DE MONS Margaux 14,5 // 85 LABEGORCE Margaux 15 // 86 Bright rich garnet hue. Subdued nose of fruit. Pretty, plump entry with taste unfurling on the mid-weight palate and a hint of oak coming through on finish - to be smoothed out at the elevage. Average length. A cru to watch. LASCOMBES Margaux 16 // 88 - 89 Beautiful dark purplish crimson. Nose of fruit and spices. Plump entry, round mid-palate and a substantial body laced with well-coated tannins. Plenty of taste coming to the fore on finish. Average persistence. LE BARON DE BRANE Margaux 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 LE BLASON D'ISSAN Margaux 14,75 // 85 - 86 MALESCOT SAINT EXUPÉRY Margaux 15,25-15,5 // 87 Bright glossy purplish crimson. Scents of extremely ripe fruit on the nose. Plump entry, a touch discreet. Tasty performance offering plenty of fruit and soft tannins but remaining round on the palate and with moderate lift on finish. Average body and length. MARGAUX Margaux 17,75 // 94 - 95 Fairly intense garnet hue - not as bright and glossy as the last two vintages. Pure elegant style of Château Margaux on the refine and nuanced nose with stunning scents of black fruits - quite Musigny. Juicy and delicately threaded entry leading to a rich, melting and fleshy palate, almost Burgundy-style, but not broad. A full-bodied and sappy wine - incredibly stylish. Beautifully detailed finish packed with aromas and a unique quality of tannins. A magnificent wine of grace and finesse. A blend of 86% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 2% petit verdot and 2% cabernet franc. Alcohol content: 13°1. Selection: 38% of the yield. MARQUIS D'ALESME BECKER Margaux 15,25 - 15,5 // 87 Deep garnet hue. Scents of ripe fruit on the nose. Caressing entry leading to a juicy and savoury palate bursting with fruit and offering a slightly tannic finish. Will gain polish at the elevage. A cru to watch. MARQUIS DE TERME Margaux 16 // 88 - 89 Bright garnet hue. Discreet nose of fruit. Soft entry followed by an explosion of fruit on the substantial and appetising palate. Well-coated and juicy finish. Average length. MARSAC SEGUINEAU Margaux 13,75 // 83 MILLE ROSES Margaux 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 MONBRISON Margaux 15 // 86 Bright garnet hue. Subdued nose of fruit. Soft entry followed by a fruity and pleasant mid-weight palate. A brisk note coming to the fore on finish - to mellow at the elevage. MONGRAVEY Margaux 14,75 - 15 // 85 - 86 PALMER Margaux 16,5 - 16,75 // 90 - 91 The estate was severely hit by the hail storm that caused havoc on June 4; and the merlots on graves suffered from the lack of water. The yield is a mere 20hl/ha. Beautiful rich garnet hue. Smokey nose of fruit. Juicy and fragrant entry leading to plenty of fruit on the remarkably structured and elegant palate. Lots of savours unfurling on the caressing palate, soft to beginning with, a little firmer on finish (IPT 90). Good tasty length. The elevage is expected to allow the soft entry and firm finish to blend in together on the mid-palate. A blend of 55% merlot and 45% cabernet sauvignon. Alcohol content: 13°2 - pH:3.7 PAVEIL DE LUZE Margaux 14,5 // 85 PAVILLON ROUGE Margaux 16,25 - 16,5 // 89 - 90 Not quite up to the 2010, nor the 2009, but on the nose, the 2011 is as vibrant, floral, pure and fruity as ever. On the palate, it appears smooth and lifted -as often. Laced with taste and, this year, offering a particularly expressive presence between the mid-palate and the finish, where it performs at its best. Already incredibly sapid and impossible not to swallow. A wine of finesse and elegance. A blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 8% petit verdot and 2% cabernet franc. 28% of the yield selected for the label - the smallest selection ever for Pavillon Rouge. Alcohol content: 13°.PRIEURE LICHINE Margaux 16,25 // 89-90 Deep garnet hue. Vibrant scents of ripe fruit and vanilla on the nose. Caressing entry leading to a gorgeous expression of fruit on the fresh, juicy and smooth palate. Lifted through to the beautiful and fragrant finish laced with fine-grained tannins. RAUZAN GASSIES Margaux 15 - 15,25 // 86 - 87 Fairly intense garnet hue. Subdued nose of fruit. A touch discreet on entry then offering plenty of fruit on the pleasant and middle-bodied palate. Tasty finish backed by well-coated tannins. Moderate length. RAUZAN SEGLA Margaux 16,75 // 91 This is the most tannic Rauzan Ségla ever produced (IPT 103) and yet, the wine has retained its refine tactile qualities and delicate flavours. It is particularly long on finish but quite tannic and well-coated, which bodes well for the future. The small yield (27hl/ha) can explain the concentrated expression of fruit. With a pH at 3.33, and if we bear in mind that acidity reinforces tannins, it is incredible that this wine should still boast fine-grained tannins and appear pulpy and juicy when, really, it should be harsh. I graded the sample I had in my glass but it is very likely the score will go up significantly at the end of the elevage. What I can already say is that Rauzan Ségla 2011 is a cru to cellar for decades and that it will evolve very slowly once bottled. A lovely success and a label on the up. A blend of 62% cabernet sauvignon, 36% merlot, 2% petit verdot.SÉGLA Margaux 15 // 86 Dark glossy purplish crimson. Scents of mature fruit on the nose. Pretty wine offering pulp, plenty of fruit and generous flesh on the palate. Average length and good quality tannins as backbone. Should gain range at the elevage. SIRAN Margaux 15,25 // 87 Purplish crimson. Lively nose of mature fruit and cream. Beautiful rich and scented savours unfurling on the smooth and plump palate laced with refine tannins and plenty of taste on finish. Skilfully structured. 2011 confirms the revival of the cru. Kind regards. Jean-Marc Quarin __________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010. This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@quarin.com The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

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Bordeaux 2011 en primeur results (Part 8)

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