Chronicle n° 126: Troplong Mondot, Saint-Emilion Classed Growth, France, versus Masseto, Tuscany, Italy.

Troplong Mondot, Saint-Emilion Classed Growth, France, versus Masseto, Tuscany, Italy. Comparative tasting of the 2005, 2004, 2003, 2002, 2001, 2000, 1999, 1998, 1997, 1996, 1995, 1994 and 1992 vintages. Chronicle n° 126 (January 24, 2012) After the comparative tasting Ornellaia versus Palmer, here is Masseto, the cuvée prestige from Ornellaia, versus Troplong Mondot. Here again, the predominance of merlot in both the crus motivated the comparative tasting. What’s more, their consultants, oenologists Michel Rolland for Masseto and Jean-Philippe Fort for Troplong Mondot - also a member of the Michel Rolland team - share the same philosophy on wine-making. Masseto is 100% merlot whereas Troplong Mondot is a blend of around 85% merlot and 15% cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, evenly split between the two, which gives the cru a fresh and zesty lift – a characteristic that definitely played in its favour in the tasting. Why so much merlot at Masseto, I wonder? According to their website, it seems to be simply because one of the consultants who, in 1984, took part in the launch of the label and in the original planting absolutely loved merlot. Common points and differences Troplong Mondot often shows the least evolved colour. Masseto, at a similar age, is likely to be browner on the rim - a give-away at the blind tasting. On the nose, both labels display scents of truffle. Masseto expression of fruit is usually riper; spicy flavours and more southern than northern nuances are not unusual either. On the palate, Troplong Mondot boasts a more balanced structure. For Masseto, the choice to strengthen the body, sometimes to excess, does not do some of the vintages any favours. Over-extraction or excess oak, or both, hinders their beauty and the heavy hand of man then breaks the original charm and balance of a variety that he contributed to bring to the top – a shame, really. Masseto also reveals notes of alcohol that are not present in Troplong Mondot, even though some of the vintages are nearing 15° in alcohol content. Greater precision in the French label leads to a more accomplished and refine expression. Masseto owes its mellow character, particularly present on entry and on the mid-palate, to its southern notes and the maturity of the fruit. But the cru fails to carry it through to the finish, suddenly disrupting our enjoyment after the mid-palate - the structure stiffens towards the end and leaves the customer unsatisfied. Mellowness is part and parcel of Troplong Mondot’s personality, but the cru also has more backbone and structure on offer, which can be explained not only by the use of cabernets but also by the higher vine density. With 5, 500 vines/hectare for the vineyards planted between 1926 and 1990 and 6, 600 vines/hectare from 1992 to 2011, the density is actually closer to that of prestigious labels. At Masseto, the density is around 3, 900 vines/hectare, well below that of Troplong Mondot, and in my opinion, quite a low density planting. (It is that of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux supérieurs). Body and structure are in such cases hard to obtain without pushing extraction to the limit – not to mention the lack of complexity when ageing. The two labels sometimes share an excess of new oak that results in the hardening of the second part of the palate. Price Tags 6.63 hectares are in production at Masseto compared with 21.73 hectares at Troplong Mondot. It is easy to understand the impact scarcity can have on prices for the super Toscan. We are here in the presence of two opposite approaches. On the one hand, one label that up until 1984 was not on the wine map and that is now the latest craze in the countries opening up to the joys of wine drinking, and on the other hand, a much older estate that never had to market its taste nor to think about commercial channels. From the consumer’s point of view, and bearing in mind the results of the tasting, Troplong Mondot stands as an outsider; to its superior taste we can add the advantage of a price tag five to ten times inferior to that of the Italian label. Bottle variation As often, some bottles from both labels underperformed at the tasting. Knowing whether the disappointment is due to the wine itself or the bottle is hard to know if you are not used to tasting the cru – my case exactly as far as Masseto is concerned. For Troplong Mondot, I added at the end of the comments below the grades I gave the label at another tasting held 45 days before. This comparative blind tasting was held in public in February 2010. The bottles came from a private cellar and were sampled in the order below. The previous vertical for Troplong Mondot had been held in Paris with bottles from the château. MASSETO 1998 Score out of 20: 16, 75-17 Score out of 100 : 91-92 Cork: pc Deep red with brick hues. Nose of spices, less refine than that of Trolong Mondot, with scents of truffle- but also of alcohol. Hot (due to the alcohol), with taste and a lovely presence on the mid-palate. Melting beautifully - in spite of excess oak, we still want to swallow. Good length. Pleasure score: 16 (88-89). Before 2020. TROPLONG MONDOT 1998 Score out of 20: 17,75 Score out of 100 : 94-95 Cork: pb Youthful red. Refine and precise nose of ripe fruits and truffle. Beautifully built on the palate: dense, fleshy, juicy, laden with fruit and wonderfully fresh and melting. Powerful finish with flavours and plenty of style. Pleasure score: 16.5 (90). Before 2028. Score at previous tasting 2 months before: 17.5 (94) TROPLONG MONDOT 1997 Score out of 20: 15 Score out of 100: 86 Cork: L ? Browning on the rim. Not particularly pleasant nose of varnished wood. A touch too linear on the palate; aromatic but overpowered by oak on finish. Pleasure score: 14 (84). Before 2014. MASSETO 1997 Score out of 20: 17,25 Score out of 100: 93 Cork: The letter M in a pyramid. Dense colour with tawny hues. Powerful and extremely clean nose of fruit and truffle; a deft mix of wonderfully ripe and soft touches. Gorgeous on entry when the wine melts away before revealing flavours of truffle, lovely flesh and personality. Sappy and long finish with no excess of alcohol but still over-oaked. Pleasure score: 16.5 (90). Before 2025. TROPLONG MONDOT 1994 Score out of 20: 14 Score out of 100 : 84 Cork: SBM Dry on finish and lacking flavours. Extraction has been badly or heavily handled. To sell on. MASSETO 1994 Score out of 20: 16,25 Score out of 100 : 89 Cork: TMP Dense colour with tawny hues. Suave and discreet nose of fresh and ripe fruits. Mellow and crammed with fruit on the palate, with spice, plenty of taste and a distinctive personality. Melting throughout; notes of vanilla and fruits in the persistence. Quite pleasant to drink now and before 2015. TROPLONG MONDOT 1995 Score out of 20: 17,75 Score out of 100 : 94-95 Cork: SBM Intense deep red with brick hues. Refine, subtle and aromatic nose of ripe fruit. Beautifully mellow on entry then unfurling layers of taste and fruit, with fat and touches of tobacco. Extremely savoury and powerful through to the long, tasty and refine finish. Dense and with a marked personality. A wine that won’t let you down. Before 2025. Score at previous tasting 2 months before: 17.75 (94-95) MASSETO 1995 Score out of 20: 15 Score out of 100 : 86 Cork: PC Dense colour with tawny hues. Discreet nose of stewed fruits. Round to start with then becoming harsh from the mid-palate and ending with coarse and over-simple tannins. Average length lacking complexity. Time is unlikely to play in its favour any more. Pleasure score: 14 (84) MASSETO 2000 Score out of 20: 17,25 Score out of 100: 93 Cork with no apparent logo. Dense colour with tawny hues. Surges of slightly aggressive, spicy and green notes on the nose to start with, but fortunately much better after swirling. Gorgeously suave entry leading to plenty of fruit and flavours. A wine of taste and poise that melts on finish, with a hint of warmth (alcohol) in the persistence, but utterly delicious all the same. Before 2015. Pleasure score: 17 (92) TROPLONG MONDOT 2000 Score out of 20: 16 Score out of 100 : 88-89 Cork: pb The bottle was unfortunately not at its best – the wine a touch too harsh on finish. Score at previous tasting 2 months before: 17.75 (94-95) TROPLONG MONDOT 2005 Score out of 20: 17,75 Score out of 100 : 94-95 Cork: MS Youthful colour. Fresh nose of ripe fruit with scents of coffee and truffle. Delicately pulpy on the palate with plenty of taste and poise on the mid-palate. Refine tactile feel throughout. Long lingering finish with sap and refine tannins. Still too young to be enjoyed now. From 2015. Score at previous tasting 2 months before: 18 (95) MASSETO 2005 Score out of 20: 13,5 Score out of 100 : 82 Cork : upside down T Too harsh and dry on finish, giving the impression of a lack of maturity. Is is the wine itself, or this particular bottle? MASSETO 2003 Score out of 20: 15,75 Score out of 100 : 88 Cork : upside down T Deep red with brick hues. Discreet nose of fruit, not terribly complex. Pleasant on the palate: soft, caressing, slightly peppery. Extremely pleasant but a touch simple. Before 2015. Pleasure score: 15 (86) TROPLONG MONDOT 2003 Score out of 20: 15,75 Score out of 100 : 88 Cork : MS Already showing brownish hues. Subtle nose of truffle, coffee, vanilla, with oak overtones. Gorgeous entry revealing plenty of aromas, fat and a beautifully dense character, even if slightly oaky. A shame the oak overpowers the wine on finish. Average length. Pleasure score: 15 (86). Before 2020. MASSETO 2001 Score out of 20 : 15,75 Score out of 100 : 88 Cork : upside down T Dense colour with tawny hues. Intense nose of spices, with a hint of greenness. Excess oak hardens the expression on the palate. With time, the wine will either mellow or remain the same. With such a price tag attached to the bottle, the risk is not worth taking. To sell on. TROPLONG MONDOT 2001 Score out of 20: 13,75 Score out of 100 : 83 Cork: SBM Hard on the palate with hardly any fruit expression on finish – the unmistakable sign of a bottle that has badly evolved. Score at previous tasting 2 months before: 17.25 (93) TROPLONG MONDOT 2004 Score out of 20: 15,75 Score out of 100 : 88 Cork: MS Soft on the palate to start with but more rustic on finish. This wine has been going through a rough patch those last two years. Will it mellow with time? Pleasure score: 14.5. Wait till 2013? Score at previous tasting 2 months before: 16.5 (90) MASSETO 2004 Score out of 20: 12 Score out of 100: 76 Cork : FS This wine smells of nail varnish (ethyl acetate) and is dry on the palate. To sell on. MASSETO 1999 Score out of 20: 16,25 Score out of 100 : 89 Cork: upside down T Dense colour with tawny hues. Pretty nose of truffle and coffee. Plenty of taste, average body and beautiful fat through to a lovely finish with touches of spices and oak. Extremely pleasant from start to finish. Before 2018. Pleasure score: 16 (88) TROPLONG MONDOT 1999 Score out of 20: 13,5 Score out of 100 : 82 Cork: SBM Discreet on the nose. The palate is neither terribly fruity nor particularly long and ends on a dry note. A case of a faulty bottle. Score at previous tasting 2 months before: 16 (88) MASSETO 1996 Score out of 20: 14,75 Score out of 100 : 85-86 Cork : The letter M in a pyramid Dense colour with tawny hues. The nose is not terribly clean and smells of volatile acidity. Round and fruity to start with, but then the wine develops on the simplistic side and reveals a drying touch on finish that, according to me, points to ethyl acetate. Very little pleasure comes of drinking it. To sell on. TROPLONG MONDOT 1996 Score out of 20: 15,75 Score out of 100 : 88 Cork : L ? Deep dark red with brick hues. Fruity nose of toffee. Soft on the palate with plenty of taste and well-coated tannins. A touch firm on finish but savoury all the same. Before 2018. Pleasure score: 15 (86) TROPLONG MONDOT 2002 Score out of 20: 16 Score out of 100: 88-89 Cork : MS Dense colour with tawny hues. Nose of toffee. Pleasantly soft on the palate, with taste throughout, average body and discreet tannins. Gain points thanks to its lovely aromatic finish. Before 2018. Pleasure score: 15.5 (87-88) MASSETO 2002 Score out of 20: 15 Score out of 100: 86 Cork: upside down T Rather simple overall and with fruit and alcohol on the nose. Mellow on entry, but unfortunately becoming disjointed with over-ambitious use of oak and losing its charm and its softness on the palate. Time is unlikely to play in its favour any more. Pleasure score: 14 (84) TROPLONG MONDOT 1992 Score out of 20: 15,25 Score out of 100 : 87 Very honourable for a 1992 – a really modest vintage for the Bordeaux area – and still sprightly 20 years on. Fruity nose, if simple. Pleasant on the palate, with average body but showing no signs of greenness or rusticity. Before 2015. Pleasure score: 15 (86) Score from a magnum at previous tasting 2 months before: 15.5(87-88) All my very best wishes to you all for a healthy and fulfilling year 2012 and may all the châteaux that we love stocking in our cellars find the key to greater consistency. Troplong Mondot Masseto Rating Price Rating Price 2005 17,75 // 94-95 238,00 € 13,5 // 81 ? 374,00 € 2004 15,75 // 88 53,00 € 12 // 76 ? 507,00 € 2003 15,75 // 88 70,00 € 15,75 // 88 393,00 € 2002 16 // 88-89 48,00 € 15 // 86 356,00 € 2001 13,75 // 83 ? 71,00 € 15,75 // 88 854,00 € 2000 16 // 88-89 ? 131,00 € 17,25 // 93 425,00 € 1999 13,5 // 82 ? 59,00 € 16,25 // 89 472,00 € 1998 17,75 // 94-95 91,00 € 16,75-17 // 91-92 469,00 € 1997 15 // 86 61,00 € 17,25 // 93 640,00 € 1996 15,75 // 88 70,00 € 14,75 // 85-86 428,00 € 1995 17,75 // 94-95 83,00 € 15 // 86 427,00 € 1994 14 // 84 62,00 € 16,25 // 89 342,00 € 1992 15,25 // 87 44,00 € Absent 368,00 € The question mark next to some of the scores signals bottles whose performance may not have been in keeping with the standard taste. _____________________________________________ All my very best wishes to you all for a healthy and fulfilling year 2012 and may all the châteaux that we love stocking in our cellars find the key to greater consistency. To celebrate the publication of the Guide Quarin des Vins de Bordeaux, I will be hosting prestigious evenings at Châteaux among my favourites in Bordeaux all through the year 2012. I am currently considering wine-dinners at Château Margaux and at Cheval Blanc . Of course I would be delighted to count you among the guests. As tickets for these exclusive events devoted to the taste of wine will be limited, please let me know by return of mail if you wish to attend. Details will follow very soon. The next report will be available on line on February 8th. Kind regards. Jean-Marc Quarin ___________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright Cette publication est éditée par Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@quarin.com Les médias et les distributeurs de vins peuvent utiliser ces notes à condition de ne pas les déformer et en citant l'origine de leur source : www.quarin.com ainsi que son auteur : Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ).

2012 Chronicles

Chronicle n° 126: Troplong Mondot, Saint-Emilion Classed Growth, France, versus Masseto, Tuscany, Italy.

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