Chronicle n° 128: Clos Manou, number one outsider in Médoc, versus classed growths Rauzan Segla, Calon Segur, Grand Puy Lacoste, Prieuré Lichine, Lagrange, Pontet Canet, Cantenac Brown, purchased bottles.

Clos Manou, number one outsider in Médoc, versus classed growths Rauzan Segla 2003, Calon Ségur 2004, Grand Puy Lacoste 2004, Prieure Lichine 2005, Haut Bages Liberal 2008, Lagrange 2007, Pontet Canet 2006, Cantenac Brown 2009. Ringer: Sociando-Mallet 2005 . Ringer: Sociando-Mallet 2005 Chronicle n° 128 (February 22d) After the magnificent comparative tasting Château Margaux versus Haut Brion, here was another amazing experience! My previous scores had shown that Clos Manou, a mere AOC Médoc label, already ranked high among the appellation estates. On many occasions, I had compared the 2003 to such prestigious classed growths as Clerc Milon, Palmer, Rauzan Segla – with Clos Manou brilliantly outshining them each time. Now the point was to check how each vintage fared when confronted to classed growths occupying a different position in the original wine classification of 1855. What status and rank would this stunning outsider be given if the classification was to be redone today? The wines were tasted blind and in public in Paris on February 2012. For each bottle sampled you will find my notes and an indication on how well it fared with the 16 members of the panel, all belonging to my wine club. First flight : 2003 - Clos Manou’s clay subsoil kept unwelcome dryness at bay. The cru took first place. RAUZAN SEGLA 2003, Margaux, second cru classé Price: 45 euros Score out of 20: 15,75-16 Score out of 100: 88 Logo on cork: A crown Already brown-tinged with tawny hues. Intense aromas on the nose, with the typically 2003 toasted, smoked and reduced notes - with a hint of praline too. Soft on entry, becoming a little slack on the mid-palate but more tannic on finish. In a word, a bottle that could do with a more significant body but pleasantly tasty. Now and before 2020. 4 out of the 16 members of the panel put it in the lead. CLOS MANOU 2003, Médoc Price: 20 euros Score out of 20 : 16,25 Score out of 100 : 89 Logo on cork : LA Extremely youthful colour - still a blueish tint. More discreet on the nose than Rauzan Segla but with more lift, fruit and liveliness. Full, generous and juicy on the palate where the wine definitely scores the winning points. Powerful and showing no rough angles. Beautiful length. Now and before 2025. 12 out of the 16 members of the panel put it in the lead. Second flight: 2004 – skilful work and dedication saved Clos Manou from the pitfalls of a bountiful year and avoided dilution and faulty extraction. It took the lead. GRAND PUY LACOSTE 2004, Pauillac, 5e cru classé Price : 36 EUROS Score out of 20 : 15,75-16 Score out of 100 : 88 Logo on cork : An upside down T Deep red with brick hues. Refine nose of fruits and liquorice. Soft and caressing on the palate – maybe a touch easy since not particularly full on the mid-palate. Lovely liquorice notes on finish. Refine tannins. Now and before 2020. 4 out of the 16 members of the panel put it in the lead. CALON SEGUR 2004, Saint-Estèphe, 3e cru classé Price : 45 EUROS Score out of 20 : 15,5 Score out of 100 : 87-88 Logo on cork : BLS Intense rich garnet. Lovely nose of fruits and cream, but with oak. Well-structured on entry and on the mid-palate but unfortunately leaving the palate dry on finish. Average length. Over-extracted. From 2015 and before 2025 – or to sell on. 1 member of the panel put it in the lead. CLOS MANOU 2004 en magnum, Médoc Price : 20 EUROS Score out of 20 : 16,5 Score out of 100 : 90 Logo on cork : LA Beautiful intense red. Refine nose of lifted fruits – the liveliest in the line-up. (Still, I believe it could be even riper). Pretty broad entry leading to a delightful array of fruit, liquorice and vanilla notes lingering all the way to the finish. Wonderfully generous and well-structured with a gorgeous finish – impossible not to swallow. Utterly enticing. Now and before 2020. 11 members of the panel preferred it to the other two labels. Third flight: 2005 – How would Clos Manou fare in an outstanding year that proved generous to all and forgiving even with the least skilled of winemakers? The scores were extremely close and points of view greatly differed among the jury. Clos Manou took second place, bowing to the enticing aromas of the Margaux label. CLOS MANOU 2005, Médoc Price 27: EUROS Score out of 20 : 16,5 Score out of 100 : 90 Logo on cork : LA Intense deep garnet. Slightly brisk on the nose – just like the 2004. Soft entry leading to layers of aromas and taste. The body could do with more structure after the mid palate. Deliciously creamy length. Scoring highly on finish, which makes the overall mark go up. From 2015 and before 2030. 4 out of the 16 members of the panel put it in the lead. SOCIANDO MALLET 2005, Haut Médoc Price : 35 EUROS Score out of 20 : 16,25 Score out of 100 : 89 Logo on cork : Letter « A » in a circle Fairly intense garnet red. Discreet nose of fruits, with delicious notes of liquorice and blackberries. Soft and mellow entry leading to a powerful mid-palate. Slightly austere tannins on finish pointing to grapes not having reached full maturity. Good length. From 2014 and before 2025. 6 out of the 16 members of the panel put it in the lead. PRIEURE LICHINE 2005, Margaux, 4e cru classé Price : 39 EUROS Score out of 20 : 16,75 Score out of 100 : 91 Logo on cork : Letter « A » in a circle The best nose of the flight, even if subdued. Subtle on entry then superbly aromatic, melting and elegant with refine tannins and substantial body. Ethereal and showing great presence through to the long, suave and delightfully savoury finish, if not particularly powerful. Good length. From 2015 and before 2035. 6 out of the 16 members of the panel put it in the lead. Fourth flight : 2008 – and the winner is …Clos Manou CLOS MANOU 2008, Médoc Price: 19 EUROS Score out of 20 : 16 Score out of 100 : 88-89 Logo on cork : LA Beautifully intense and deep crimson. Delicately toasted and subtle nose of fruits. Soft and broad on the palate, with layers of taste, refine tannins and great balance. A touch of excess oak on finish as yet, but no unpleasant dryness on the palate. From 2015 and before 2025. The 16 members of the panel unanimously put it in the lead. HAUT BAGES LIBERAL 2008, Pauillac 5e cru classé Price : 25 EUROS Score out of 20 : 15,25 Score out of 100 : 87 Logo on cork : JL Bright, fairly intense purplish crimson. Simple, discreet, vivid and cold on the nose. The grapes are not green but lack maturity. Mellow on entry then revealing an enticing touch of cream on the mid-palate, but the body fails to pick up power and the tannins remain too square on finish. From 2015 and before 2030. None of the members of the panel put it in the lead. Fifth flight: 2009 – the very best of Clos Manou – and a winner. CLOS MANOU 2009, Médoc Price 20 EUROS Score out of 20 : 16,75 Score out of 100 : 91 Logo on cork : LA Beautifully intense deep purplish crimson. Powerful, rich and clean nose – stunning after stirring. Subtle entry leading to a broad, generous, creamy and powerful performance, crammed with taste and boasting refine tannins. Utterly delicious finish with a hint of spice reminiscent of syrah. Superb length. Decant it and enjoy it now or wait until 2017. Before 2035. 12 out of the 16 members of the panel put it in the lead. CANTENAC BROWN 2009, Margaux 3e cru classé Price : 45 EUROS Score out of 20 : 16,5 Score out of 100 : 90 Logo on cork : Letter « A » in a circle Not as intense in colour as Clos Manou. Aromatic and elegant nose - a touch too discreet. Superb entry: with fat and crammed with aromas. A shame the excess oak makes the finish too catchy on the palate. No doubt it needs more time, but it does not quite boast its contender’s flesh. From 2020 and before 2035. 4 out of the 16 members of the panel put it in the lead. Whilst enjoying dinner Sixth flight: 2007 – this time Clos Manou found itself next to Lagrange, one of the top three Saint-Julien labels in 2007. And once again, Clos Manou took first place. CLOS MANOU 2007, Médoc Price: 18 EUROS Score out of 20 : 16,25 Score out of 100 : 89 Logo on cork : LA Intense deep dark red. Surge of fresh ripe fruits on the nose– subtle and reminiscent of a Burgundy cru. Juicy and melting on the palate, easily flowing in the mouth whilst unfurling layers of savours and a hint of oak in the persistence. Beautifully clean and aromatic throughout. Can be enjoyed now. This is the Clos Manou blend with the highest percentage of merlot – 55% merlot matured in new oak give the year an undeniable aromatic charm. Now and before 2022. All the 16 members of the panel unanimously put it in the lead. LAGRANGE 2007, Saint Julien 3e cru classé Price 30 EUROS Score out of 20 : 16 Score out of 100 : 88-89 Logo on cork : an upside down T Fairly intense garnet hue. Creamy nose, with average aromatic intensity. Dense and unctuous on the palate but not quite boasting the same vibrancy and liveliness as the previous wine. Good length and average body. Now and before 2020. Seventh flight : 2006 – Surprise, surprise ! The jury’s preference went to Clos Manou. It was paired with braised beef. CLOS MANOU 2006, Médoc Price: 28 EUROS Score out of 20 : 16 Score out of 100 : 88-89 Logo on cork : LA Intense deep garnet. Nose of fruits - but a touch brisk and rather simple. Caressing on entry, quite fluid on the mid-palate, then aromatic and soft with plenty of taste and refine tannins. Average length and tight structure in the persistence. Now – if you decant it a couple of hours before you enjoy it - or from 2014. Before 2025. 14 out of the 16 members of the panel put it in the lead. PONTET CANET 2006, Pauillac 5e cru classé Price 74 EUROS Score out of 20 : 16,25-16,5 Score out of 100 : 89-90 Logo on cork : DF Beautifully intense and glossy deep garnet. Creamy nose of fruit – slightly stewed. Generous and full entry leading to a lovely performance crammed with aromas – but with a hint of heaviness. Tannic on finish. Average length. I expected more from this estate. From 2016 and before 2030. 2 out of the 16 members of the panel put it in the lead. Conclusion Clos Manou came out the definite winner for the evening- one of its major assets being the amazing consistency from one vintage to the next. Such regularity is the unmistakable sign of the Dief family’s dedication to their production. Up until now, I used to give Lagrange 2007 and Cantenac Brown 2009 superior grades. As for Pontet Canet 2006, I expected a bigger gap to its advantage and I was far from imagining the panel would prefer Clos Manou. Clos Manou would not only deserve to be given a place among the classed growths but it would also have to be given pride of place either among the fourth or even among the third classed growths. I am deeply convinced that the relentless drive for quality this young estate has shown this past decade will take it even further. I was there during the harvest 2011 (you can see the videos taken live on my Facebook account). Since the vinification, Stephane Dief has pointed out the incredibly high standard of the cabernets sauvignons, which he believes to be superior to the 2010s and, for the first time ever, the 2011 Clos Manou blend will be 85% cabernet sauvignon, like the leading crus in Médoc. When many prestigious labels will have to chaptalize, Clos Manou’s cabernets sauvignons’ alcohol content is naturally around 14°5. You will be able to read all about a tasting of the 2011 in a few weeks’ time. Kind regards Jean-Marc Quarin ___________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010. This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@quarin.com The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

2012 Chronicles

Chronicle n° 128: Clos Manou, number one outsider in Médoc, versus classed growths Rauzan Segla, Calon Segur, Grand Puy Lacoste, Prieuré Lichine, Lagrange, Pontet Canet, Cantenac Brown, purchased bottles.

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