Chronicle n° 133: evolution of the 2002s – the issue of closures and faulty bottles. Latest tasting notes on 70 wines

Evolution of the 2002s – the issue of closures and faulty bottles Latest tasting notes on 70 wines Chronicle n° 133 (July 10, 2012) Evolution of the 2002s – the issue of closures and faulty bottles As I wrote in the introduction to the carnet n°65 on the evolution of the 2001s 10 years on and the 1990s 20 years on (currently being translated), I have just sampled the best 50 labels of 2002 again. All the bottles in the line up came from a private cellar - and not from the chateaux’ vaults. We had the very pleasant surprise to see that only one bottle in the line up was corked and just two failed to meet the expected standard, which means a mere 6.25% faulty bottles as opposed to 25% for the 2001s sampled 10 years on and 17% for the 2000s in 2010. Since we started with the 1990 vintage, this has been the lowest waste level for all the years that were re-assessed 10 years after bottling, each time from bottles coming from private cellars In June 2013, I will be re-assessing the leading 2003s in similar conditions. I truly hope that the trend towards an increase in the quality of the closures used by the chateaux will be confirmed by this forthcoming tasting. The results for the 2002s will be published at the end of the year. Their performance was somewhat moderate and overall, the tasting failed to move the audience. _________________________________________________ Latest tasting notes on 70 wines ANGÉLUS St-Emilion Grand Cru 2005 Score out of 20 : 18,5 Score out of 100 : 97 Sampled at the chateau. The most stylish of all the Angelus. Accomplished and elegant, overtaking the 2009.From 2015 and before 2050. ANGÉLUS St-Emilion Grand Cru 1992 15,5 - 88 From a private cellar. A more modest vintage, still lively and showing no greenness. Decant it an hour before. Before 2016. ANGLUDET Margaux 2009 16,5 - 92 From a private cellar. Gorgeous- literally perfumed- silky and finely grained. Highly recommended.From 2013 and before 2040. BEAU SÉJOUR BÉCOT St-Emilion Grand Cru 2008 16,5 - 92 From a private cellar. Wonderfully aromatic and sapid, boasting well-coated tannins. A wine of poise and elegance.From 2015 and before 2030. BEAU SÉJOUR BÉCOT St-Emilion Grand Cru 2005 16,25 - 91 From a private cellar. Lacking fat on the palate.From 2015 and before 2030. BEAUSÉJOUR DUFFAU LAGARROSSE St-Emilion Grand Cru 2005 18,5 - 97 From a private cellar. Both suave and vibrant. Gorgeous mid-palate. Laden with taste and just a pinch of austerity.From 2015 and before 2050. BELLE-VUE Haut-Médoc 2001 14 - 85 From a private cellar. Light pleasant wine to be enjoyed before 2014. BELLEFONT BELCIER St-Emilion Grand Cru 2008 15 - 87 From a private cellar. Fruity and caressing but lacking suppleness on finish.From 2018 and before 2030. BRANON Pessac-Léognan rouge 2006 17,5 - 94 From a private cellar. Stylish, subtle, floral, fruity, fat and sapid.From 2014 and before 2035. CALON SEGUR Saint-Estèphe 2001 15 - 87 Sampled at the chateau. Tannins too square on finish for a Calon-Ségur.Now and before 2015. CERTAN DE MAY DE CERTAN Pomerol 1998 15,75 - 89 Sampled at the chateau. Pleasant and fruity but lacking the expected depth of the year.Now and before 2020. CHARMES DE KIRWAN (LES) Margaux 2008 14 - 85 From a private cellar. Crammed with aromas. Delicate wine drinking well now.Now and before 2015. CHEVAL BLANC St-Emilion Grand Cru 2008 19 - 98 Sampled at the chateau. An exceptionally deft balance between fat and floral freshness.From 2020 and before 2050. CHEVAL BLANC St-Emilion Grand Cru 1992 15 - 87 From a private cellar. Pleasant but light, showing no greenness. Has almost reached the end of its life. Now and before 2014. CLINET Pomerol 2005 17 - 94 From a private cellar. Both nose and palate more southern than northern in temperament. Lingering but not particularly subtle.From 2015 and before 2040. CLOS L'ÉGLISE Pomerol 2008 17,5 - 95 Sampled at the chateau. Absolutely terrific: powerful and long with floral, fruity and liquorice aromas.From 2017 and before 2035. CLOS DE L'ÉGLISE Pomerol 1985 15,5 - 87 From a private cellar. Lacking body yet surprisingly suave for a wine that was machine harvested. Now and before 2018. CLOS DU BEAU-PERE (LE) Pomerol 2009 16,25 - 91 Sampled at the chateau. Round, powerful and wonderfully hedonistic. The best I've seen on this estate.From 2017 and before 2035. CLOS DU BEAU-PERE (LE) Pomerol 2008 15,5 - 88 Sampled at the chateau. Incredibly clean fruit on the nose, lingering on the palate, deliciously reminiscent of merlot on graves soil.From 2017 and before 2030. CLOS FOURTET St-Emilion Grand Cru 2005 18 - 96 From a private cellar. Deep and elegant. Mighty finish.From 2015 and before 2050. CLOS LOUIE Côtes de Castillon 2008 16,5 - 92 Sampled at the chateau. Fruity, spicy, powerful palate. Mighty finish with truffle. Superb outsider.From 2015 and before 2035. CLOS LOUIE Côtes de Castillon 2005 16,75 - 93 Sampled at the chateau. Complex, juicy, deep and powerful. Fine-grained tannins. Superb outsider.From 2015 and before 2035. CONSEILLANTE (LA) Pomerol 2005 19 - 98 Sampled at the chateau. Sumptuous nose of truffle. Complex and regal with a stunning aromatic signature.From 2015 and before 2050. CROIX SAINT GEORGES (LA) Pomerol 2001 Sampled at the chateau. Many corked bottles among those opened at a dinner function. DOMAINE D'EUGENIE Vosnes Romanée Aux Brulées 2008 16 - 90 From a private cellar. Same owner as Château Latour. Utterly delicious wine – floral, melting palate with fruit and refine tannins.From 2014 and before 2028. DOMAINE DE L'A Côtes de Castillon 2005 16,75 - 93 From a private cellar. Beautifully woven, deep, sapid, velvety palate.Superb length.An outsider to be reckoned with.From 2015 and before 2035. EGLISE CLINET (L') Pomerol 2005 18,75 – 97 From a private cellar. A wine of great finesse, elegance, grace and depth - burgundy style.From 2015 and before 2050. FLEUR D'ARTHUS (LA) St-Emilion Grand Cru 2008 15,5 - 88 From a private cellar. Bursting with fruit, good body and rather refine length. Very good value for money.From 2015 and before 2025. FLEUR D'ARTHUS (LA) St-Emilion Grand Cru 2007 15 - 87 From a private cellar. A particularly pleasant and successful year for the estate.From 2013 and before 2020. FLEUR PETRUS (LA) Pomerol 1998 18 - 96 Sampled at the chateau. Enticing, creamy and ethereal nose. Wonderfully balanced palate with exquisite and generous pulp. A beauty. Now and before 2030. FONBRAUGE Saint-Emilion 2008 14,5 - 86 From a private cellar. Green hints coming to the fore. Now and before 2016. FONBRAUGE Saint-Emilion 2004 13,75 - 84 From a private cellar. Green flavours coming to the fore. Should have been drunk already. FRANCK PHELAN Saint-Estèphe 2007 13 - 81 From a private cellar. Diluted.Should have been drunk already. GAZIN Pomerol 2001 16 - 90 Sampled at the chateau. Juicy and extremely sapid. A treat drinking well now and before 2022. GIROLATE Bordeaux blanc 2009 14 - 85 From a private cellar. Lovely nose but with excess oak and not enough fruit on the palate.Drink a.s.a.p GOLD DE RAYNE VIGNEAU Sauternes 2005 17 - 94 Sampled at the chateau. Gorgeous botrytised wine with amazing green tea and stewed white fruit flavours. Irresistible. Now and before 2050. GRANDS CHÊNES (LES) Médoc 2006 13,75 - 84 From a private cellar. Simple nose, rustic palate - not quite the expected Médoc gem. GRAND PONTET St-Emilion Grand Cru 2009 17 - 94 From a private cellar. Magnificent!Accomplished and deep. An outsider. From 2016 and before 2040. GRAND PONTET St-Emilion Grand Cru 2008 16,5 - 92 From a private cellar. More linear and less broad than the 2009, but crammed with flavours. To be cellared. From 2015 and before 2035. HAUT BRION Pessac-Léognan rouge 1975 18 - 96 Sampled at the chateau. From a double magnum. Sublime nose: suave, subtle and smoky. Terrific palate: silky, delicately woven and aromatic.Quite unique. Now and before 2030. KIRWAN Margaux 2009 16,75 - 93 From a private cellar. Refine nose. Juicy, powerful yet ethereal palate - as a Margaux should be. From 2017 and before 2040. KIRWAN Margaux 2007 16 -90 From a private cellar. First vintage crafted by Philippe Delfaut at Kirwan. A better success than the 2006 - as clean in its expression but boasting more density. From 2014 and before 2027. KIRWAN Margaux 2006 15,75 - 89 From a private cellar. Moderately dense, caressing and showing refine tannins. From 2014 and before 2024. LAFLEUR Pomerol 2008 19 - 98 Sampled at the chateau. A truly magnificent wine bursting with fruit in the persistence. Fleshy, lingering and extremely sapid. Superb emotion - Burgundy style approach. From 2020 and before 2040. LEOVILLE BARTON Saint-Julien 2005 16,25 - 89 From a private cellar. Stiff tannins from the mid-palate on. Below the year’s reputation. From 2015 and before 2030. LÉOVILLE POYFERRÉ Saint-Julien 2005 18,5 - 97 From a private cellar. Defined by poise and elegance. Broad and linear, boasting high quality tannins and superb aromas on finish. From 2015 and before 2050. MALARTIC LAGRAVIERE Pessac-Léognan white 2008 16 - 90 From a private cellar. From a small yield (20hl/ha). Highly concentrated. To cellar. From 2015 and before 2025. MALESCOT SAINT EXUPÉRY Margaux 2001 15,75 - 89 From a private cellar. Lovely nose of truffle. Delicate palate, a touch vivid on finish. Now and before 2020. MEYNEY Saint-Estèphe 1986 16,75 - 93 Sampled at the chateau. From an imperiale. Nose of truffle and cream - as a Pomerol. Surprisingly broad palate boasting beautiful grained tannins.Great length. Now and before 2025. MILENS St-Emilion Grand Cru 2000 15,5 - 88 From a private cellar. A hint of alcohol on the nose. Soft palate. Now and before 2015. MITIS AMIGNE DE VETROZ Valais 1997 16,5 - 92 DOMAINE JEAN RENE GERMANIER 37,5 cl From a private cellar. Superb sweet whites are produced in Switzerland. Apricot and currants on the nose. Melting, powerful, beautifully balanced and quite delicious, if not incredibly complex. Now and before 2025. PALMER Margaux 1988 15,75 - 89 Sampled at the chateau. Browning. Nose of fruit, a touch cold. Suave and aromatic palate losing complexity on finish. Now and before 2020. PALMER Margaux 1967 16 - 90 Sampled at the chateau. A lovely surprise for this bottle that had remained undisturbed in the château’s vault since bottling. It would be interesting to see how a bottle from a private cellar performs. Nose of cedar wood. Extremely soft palate - amazingly tactile and sapid. Now and before 2018. PALMER Bordeaux blanc 2008 16,5 - 92 Sampled at the chateau. A daring blend of muscadelle (65%), sauvignon gris, merlot blanc and lauzet from young vines for a superb result. Melting, ethereal palate with sublime tactile feel and amazing vibrancy. A beauty. Now and before 2018. PAPE CLEMENT Pessac-Léognan rouge 2006 16,5 - 92 From a private cellar. Nose of oyster shell. Fruit expression lacking vibrancy on the palate pointing to a late harvest. From 2014 and before 2030. PAVILLON DE LEOVILLE POYFERRE Saint-Julien 2009 15 - 87 From a private cellar. Extremely gratifying. Now and before 2018. PETIT CHEVAL St-Emilion Grand Cru 2008 16,75 - 93 Sampled at the chateau. Stunning, elegant wine.From 2016 and before 2030. PETRUS Pomerol 2005 17 - 94 From a private cellar. Refine nose. Caressing on entry yet a touch square on finish. I expected more. From 2015 and before 2050. PHELAN SEGUR Saint-Estèphe 2007 15 - 87 From a private cellar. A hint of alcohol on the nose. Pleasant, soft palate. Now and before 2017. PHELAN SEGUR Saint-Estèphe 2000 14,5 - 86 From a private cellar. Disappointing performance pointing to a lack of maturity in the fruit. Below the year's reputation. Now and before 2015. PICHON LONGUEVILLE BARON Pauillac 2001 Sampled at the chateau. Significant inconsistency between bottles opened at a gala dinner. PRIEURE LICHINE Margaux 2003 15,75 - 89 Sampled at the chateau. A touch dry on finish. Enjoy it now, while the fruit is still lively. Now and before 2016. PRIEURE LICHINE Margaux 1996 15 - 87 Sampled at the chateau. A touch dry on finish. Drink a.s.a.p. ROUGET Pomerol 2000 15,75 - 89 From a private cellar. Animal flavours over fruit. Blended palate. Now and before 2016. S.CATHIARD VOSNES-ROMANEE AUX MALCONSORTS 2006 16,75 - 93 From a private cellar. Elegant nose. Broad palate packed with red fruit, liquorice and violet.Could have been more refine on finish. From 2016 and before 2030. TOUR DE MIRAMBEAU Cuvée Passion Bordeaux blanc 2009 14,5 - 86 From a private cellar. Nose of truffle.Suave palate. Moderate body. Now and before 2013. VIEUX CHÂTEAU CERTAN Pomerol 2005 17,5 - 95 Sampled at the chateau. Superb tactile feel from start to finish. Bursting with fruit on the palate. Body a touch subdued. From 2015 and before 2045. VIEUX MAILLET Pomerol 2001 15,5 - 88 From a private cellar. Dainty flavours, suave body, utterly gratifying now. Now and before 2018. The next chronicle will be available online from September 3. The report on the evolution of the 2001s and the 1990s will be sent to you this summer. Have a lovely summer break. Kind regards. Jean-Marc Quarin __________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010. This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@quarin.com The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

2012 Chronicles

Chronicle n° 133: evolution of the 2002s – the issue of closures and faulty bottles. Latest tasting notes on 70 wines

Subscribe

Subscription

Wine name	(Producer, appellation, etc.)