Chronicle 151: my trip to Hong Kong followed by around 30 tastings

• Bordeaux 2013 and the wine prices to come • Superb Valandraud 2003 scored 96 and higher three times this year • Thoughts on Seguin 2012 in Pessac-Léognan • My trip to Hong Kong followed by around 30 tastings Chronicle 151 (July 5, 2013) • Bordeaux 2013 and the wine prices to come A cold and rainy spring delayed the onset of the growth cycle by at least two weeks and even more than that on later developing terroirs. “This vintage gets later and later as time goes on”, commented one winegrower. The weather conditions could well have a negative impact on the market, because to keep its prices up, Bordeaux most likely needs a major vintage in 2013 to warm up today’s chilly outlook. Statistically, however, great Bordeaux vintages have in common growth cycles that all kicked off early. 2013 is already out of this paradigm. The 2012s are not selling and the 2011s are still in stock. Hard though it may seem to believe, the present development of 2013 should mechanically drag down prices across the board without the actual quality likely to grace our glasses after the harvest even being taken into account. Furthermore, if the harvest does turn out to be abundant as the first bunches to appear would have us think, this too will mechanically add to the drop in price as the balance of supply and demand is affected. I would like to point out that it was only because the 2012 vintage was so small in volume that prices did not topple then. In circumstances such as these, it will be intriguing to watch how the big names and the Outsiders manage to get the best out of the situation by putting to the fore their quest for quality and by enjoying the fruits of their second terroir, that is their intelligence, their hard work and their diligence. Measuring to what extent this can be done will be the real challenge in 2013. • Superb Valandraud 2003 scored 96 and higher three times this year In Switzerland, I have just re-tasted the 50 top Bordeaux wines in 2003. The bottles were taken from a private person’s cellar. After Latour and Montrose, Valandraud 2003 must be added to the best wines of the year. This is the third time in less than a year that this wine has been so well rated in my tastings. Overall the results are average. I will publish them at the end of the year. • Seguin 2012 in Pessac-Léognan Since the Primeurs, I have tasted the best-scoring wines of the vintage again twice. I confirm their scores. I would like to comment on one of them, the fine outsider Château Seguin in Pessac-Léognan. Better wines or wines with reputations are traditionally served at the end of a presentation. As a rule, the sensation of quality is really felt, when you manage to remove yourself from the influence of the previous wine on your perceptions. So it is a good idea to go back and see how a wine that you considered to be a little limited, performs just before another. This technique is particularly useful to check how good the texture is of a wine’s tannins. Therefore, I served Seguin 2012 twice after wines which were far more acclaimed than it and had higher scores. Surprisingly, far from being crushed by the comparison, this wine stimulated the palate in places that others don’t appear to reach! Its general balance and its enjoyment score are so high that they call attention to other factors than the traditional assessment of the wine’s body. It expresses both the potential of the estate and the minute attention to detail paid as the wine was made. These still young vines hide an incredibly strong personality. Seguin is forging its way and is beginning to fashion a distinctive style. Its taste is beginning to stand out more than that of the vintage. I have very rarely perceived this in such a youthful wine. To be followed closely. • My trip to Hong Kong I spent a week there. It’s a lively, rich and happy city wedged between the sea and mountains. They don’t have enough space, so they build everything upwards. The humid warmth compels you to live inside protected by powerful air-conditioning systems. Wine is everywhere with fine labels. Here consumers can import any bottle they like with no need of a licence or professional status and without duty. They store them in wine cabinets. If they have too many bottles, they rent air-conditioned storerooms. I visited Crown Wine Cellar in the mountains, located in old caves used by the British Army. And Wine Vault which offers rented storage space in a converted building. In the grand hotels, it feels like what you imagine European hotels to have been like before the Great War. Impeccable service, highly devoted, “Yes, sir, no sir, three bags full, sir”, disconcertingly ready to render any service as long as you pay them. The best hotels appear to be The Peninsula, Shangri-La and Mandarin Oriental. Wine and restaurant prices are comparable to ours. The taxis are all red, slightly older models, but very clean and perfectly air-conditioned. There are hundreds of them and they are not dear. Paris taxis are dirty and unwelcoming in comparison. In the grand hotels, the staff calls you a taxi in Chinese and gives you a voucher issued by the hotel, which says in Chinese where you have come from and where you are going. This is a reassuring guarantee just in case you have a comprehension issue or dispute. Overall the old English Hong Kong is becoming more and more Chinese. Elderly Hong Kongers regret this and would prefer in the future to be completely independent of China. After 2 tastings with subscribers, a press conference with etc wines, the most intense moment for me was my 31/2-minute speech in English in front of the 550 guests attending the French Chamber of Commerce Gala Dinner. I had to present my tasting method “the palate before the nose”. I have the promotional text in English for this event, which I can share with anyone who is interested in seeing it. Here is what I tasted while in Hong Kong: Malartic Lagravière 2008 white, 91, fragrant, silky on the palate, flavoursome and fleshy with a good sappy, Sauvignon finish. Wait until 2013, then up to 2025. Brio de Cantenac 2008 magnum, 87, fleshier than the same thing tasted in Bordeaux one week before (recent consignment). Good now and up to 2020. Same for Cantenac Brown 2008, 91, considered to be austere in Bordeaux, (89) and a lot less so in Hong Kong. Dear knows why. Wait until 2018, then up to 2035. Montrose 2002, 91, long and slender, moderately aromatic with perceptible tannins, but softened on the finish. Has been better. Give it more time. Wait until 2015, then up to 2022. Léoville Barton 2005, 89, finish too austere, unripe tannins. Clear opportunity to sell. Léoville Poyferré 2005, 97, regal, aromatic, richly supple, well-made, full in the middle, fleshy on the finish, long, fine-grained. Superbly well done. Invest now. Wait until 2015, then up to 2050. Angelus 2001, 94, good colour, aromatic, tender on the palate, fruity, slender and flavoursome, good corpulence and length. Very good now and up to 2025. Pavie 2001 in a magnum, 93, nose a bit warm, whole on the palate, noticeable wood and lacking in complexity. Firmer than in 75-cl, needs more time. La Conseillante 2001, 97, bright with truffles on the nose, regal tannic texture, while the body is full. Unparalleled fine grain compared to its peers. Wait until 2016, then up to 2050. Magrez Fombrauge 2000, 89, I was quite surprised by the tenderness, the elegant fleshiness and pleasant character of this wine on the palate, quite different from its usual extracted feel, but my friends opened another bottle and sure enough it was more tannic, less attractive and woodier. Good now and up to 2020. Haut Bailly 1999, 87, smoky nose, tender on the palate, fully ready for drinking, pleasant, not much structure. Good now and up to 2018. La Conseillante 1998, 94, violets and liquorice on the nose, very flavoursome on the palate, but a lively spike on the finish. Very good now and up to 2025. Angelus 1998, 95, very fruity, ample on the palate, it has taste and slightly granular tannins on the finish. A long wine. Very good now and up to 2025. Pavie 1998, 90, here again the nose is “warm”, even though it is aromatic. Slightly dry on the palate as it persists. Good now and up to 2020. Pichon Comtesse 1995, 93, still too young, fruity on the nose, a little woody, round on the palate, good presence in the middle and more discrete on the finish. Tannins a bit firm. Standard length. A “new world” version of Pichon Comtesse. Good now and up to 2025. Léoville Poyferré 1994, 86, this wine is saved by its bouquet, while it dries up very quickly on the palate. Should have been drunk. La Dominique 1990, 87, lovely open nose with truffles. Too dry on the palate on the finish. Should have been drunk. Gruaud Larose 1990, 89, slightly alcoholic nose. Fruity on the palate, medium body, softened tannins. Overall frustrating because it lacks volume. Drink up as soon as you can. Clear opportunity to sell. L’Evangile 1990, 94, spicy and fruity on the nose, it caresses the palate with smooth, soft texture. Long sappy finish with a taste of tobacco and fine grained. Very good now and up to 2020-2030. La Conseillante 1990, 96, big creamy nose and riper than L’Evangile. Ample on the palate, very fruity, beautiful velvety, full middle. Long richly supple finish with many layers of taste, noble and subtle. Superb now and up to 2030. Palmer 1989, 96, splendid wine with cedar and fruits on the nose, full on the palate and delightful texture. Overall silky, very rounded and fragrant on the finish. Fine grain. You just keep sipping this one and can’t spit it out. Should be good for another 10 to 15 years. Pichon Lalande 1986, 95, a “Bordeaux” version of Pichon. I tasted it alongside the 1995 and the 1982. Great, very refined nose with overtones of cedar. Very Cabernet Sauvignon. Slender and straight on the palate, very caressing and fragrant, fine-grained, melting body with a fragrant finish, impossible to spit out. Perfect now and up to 2025. Pichon Lalande 1982, 96, a little old-fashioned on the nose, not as pure as the younger vintages. However, it stands out on the palate with its plump, all-enveloping body. Big, complex finish. Perfect now and up to 2025. D’Yquem 2010, 99, the most crystalline Yquem I know. Magical and moving right now and for the next 90 years! Very good now and up to 2100! D’Yquem 2007, 95, roast nose. Airy on the palate with fine candied flavours on the finish. Lovely, very flavoursome length. Very good now and up to 2040. D’Yquem 1995, 95, slight saffron hint at the beginning of the bouquet. A little less melting on the palate than it has been in the past, full and candied on the finish. The most botrytised wine of the vintage. Very good now and up to 2030. D’Yquem 1989, 97 superb, fine compote on the nose. Airy, melting, very fruity on the palate with silky texture and subtle, complex aromas. The finish is a grand finale. Superb now and up to 2050. D’Yquem 1986, 94, a hint of nail varnish on the nose. Melting and subtly candied on the palate, ending up long and flavoursome. Very good now and up to 2040. D’Yquem 1970, 93, saffron and mirabelle plum on the nose, more ordinary than the previous ones. Melts on the palate, fruity, candied without being very airy. Good length. Drink now and up to 2030. Happy reading! Jean-Marc Quarin _________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010. This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@quarin.com The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

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Chronicle 151: my trip to Hong Kong followed by around 30 tastings

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