Chronicle n° 143: full vertical tasting of Château Valandraud, Saint-Emilion grand cru, from 1991 to 2011, purchased bottles

Full vertical tasting of Château Valandraud, Saint-Emilion grand cru, from 1991 to 2011 + Pavie 2000, L’Interdit 2000, Virginie 2000, Troplong Mondot 2005 and Angelus 2006 as ringers. Jean-Marc Quarin goes east Chronicle n° 143 (March 14, 2013) As Saint-Emilion comes to grips with its new classification, I am once again tasting the first classed growths from 1994 to 2011. Pavie, Pavie-Macquin, Larcis Ducasse, la Gaffelière, Angelus and Figeac have already been sampled. Here are my tasting notes on the full Valandraud vertical spanning 17 years, from1991 to 2008. Literally unknown 22 years ago, the estate rose from non-classed growth straight to first classed growth B status in September 2012, happily jumping ahead of the grands crus classés – a first in Saint Emilion! In the process, the property saw its worth increase three to fourfold. Need I say more! All the bottles came from a private cellar. Once again a huge thank you to my Swiss friends, their love of wine and common sense. We must remember that verticals held outside Bordeaux offer the huge advantage of testing bottle consistency outside of the château, where they are usually sampled with no real regular checks to follow through. But, when travelling, bottles are like people. The poorer their health, under sound appearances, the more they will be affected by the ups and downs of the journey. Under such circumstances, a good score outside Bordeaux is even more telling. For Valandraud, I never once had to write that the bottle did not perform as it should have done. Though, going through my notes at the time of writing, I realise that 1995 was probably not at its best; inconsistencies due to corkage have often been remarked on for that specific year. Strengths and weaknesses highlighted in the tasting Strengths: consistency and regularity in style Consistent quality runs through all the vintages even though, from 1999, the cru was crafted from vineyards set on a more clayey-limestone and late terroir. One of the first garage wines, or “vin de garage”, Valandraud started off with challenging vintages such as 1991, 1992 and 1993. However, 20 years on, not only are they still lively and vibrant, but they also stand in the lead of Bordeaux wines. In 2012, for instance, I tasted a series of 1992 crus consisting in Cheval Blanc, Angelus, Troplong Mondot and Valandraud. Valandraud boasted the softest texture, with no hint of greenness, and went as far as being pulpy and perfectly focussed. In the early 1990s, it filled the space left vacant by pricey world-famous estates that lacked real substance – either because of slipping standards or genuine innocence. Valandraud is a rich substantial wine for which merlot, new oak, clean vibrant fruit, density and substance all play a vital role. The enticing character that comes with pulp, softness and immediate gratification contributed to the aura surrounding the cru and was followed by high demands and skyrocketing prices. Asia’s growing interest in Bordeaux, its niche market and the consistent US demands, along with a 50 to 80% increase between the 1995 and the 1996 en primeur campaigns did the rest. Weaknesses : occasionnal over-extraction and lack of complex fragrances Weaknesses first appeared in 1999, when the cru took over Château Bel Air Ouy and its terroirs, in Saint Etienne de Lisse, and was renamed Valandraud. Some years are marked by over-extraction and excess oak, which hinder the wine’s balance and immediate gratification. Interestingly enough, in the 2000 vintage, I personally prefer the structure of its second wine, Virginie, a blend including other terroirs, over that of Valandraud, which I find more austere. The over-discreet aromatic character may be seen as another limiting aspect. Only the 1998s and 2003s managed not to be affected by it. And it was interesting to learn that the 2003 vintage (the best wine in the line up) was apparently extracted with a lighter and defter hand. Bearing in mind that, at a similar age, the more the tannins show, the less aromatic the wine is, I would be curious to see if the cru could alter the style it adopted up to then. Of course, the cabernet franc, the true fragrance of the right bank, could also play a major role. So, will the “body revolution” be followed by a subtler one on fragrances? With the current reshuffling among leading critics easing the pressure, whether justified or not, to please only one, the necessity to update the style, and the cru’s promotion to premier cru classé B, this may be the right time for Vallandraud, and with it, for a whole progressive right bank movement, to start thinking about it. As far as I know, Angelus thought it through after the 1999 hailstorm. So give us some more of the 2003 please! The tasting of the 1991 to the 2008 was held blind and in public on November 26, 2012 in Switzerland. The bottles were all served decanted in the order below. Pavie 2000, Virginie de Valandraud 2000, L’Interdit de Valandraud and Angelus 2006 were ringers. I added my tasting notes on the 2010 and 2011 vintages sampled in January 2013 at the estate. The estate covers 10 hectares, planted to 70% merlot, 20% cabernet franc, 5% cabernet sauvignon, 2% carmenère and 3% malbec. Age of vines : 30 years old. Density : 6, 500/hect. Undersoil : clayey-limestone. ___________________________________________________________ March 2006. A new contribution to my scoring system : the pleasure score. This pleasure score has been created especially for the wine enthusiasts who wish to enjoy the wines they buy without delay. It complements the general score indicating the likely quality and enjoyment potential of the wine by the end of its ageing capacity. Bearing in mind that some Bordeaux wines showing great potential are not hugely pleasant to drink when young, the closer the pleasure score to the potential score, the higher the enjoyment will be. ___________________________________________________________ First flight : 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996 1993 Pleasure score 90 Potential score 90 Logo on cork : CRL Lovely intense red with brown hues. Simple, discreet nose of fruit. Velvety, plummy palate. Ripe smooth tannins. Drink before 2018. A skilfully crafted wine I’d be curious to sample from a magnum. 1994 Pleasure score .. 87 Potential score 89 Logo on cork: CRL Lovely intense red with brown hues. Intense nose of fruit, slightly reduced. Barnyard smells. Broad generous palate crammed with fruit. Tannins a little marked on finish. Moderate length. Drink before 2020. 1995 Pleasure score 87 Potential score 87 Logo on cork: CRL Lovely intense red with brown hues. Subdued nose of ripe fruit – very merlot. Barnyard smells. Pleasant enough palate with the wine gliding through the mouth. Medium-bodied. Short finish with no rough edges. Drink before 2015. 1996 Pleasure score .. 90 Potential score 91 Logo on cork: CRL Lovely intense red with brown hues. Subdued and reduced nose- smells of barnyard and ripe merlot. Velvety palate with great presence in the middle. High-standard sensations in the mouth. Long lingering finish typical of cabernet franc. Drink before 2020. Second flight: 1991, 1992, 1997, 1999 1991 Logo on cork: CRL The bottle was corked. 1992 Pleasure score 90 Potential score 90 Logo on cork: CRL One of the vintage’s top bottles - usually appearing stalky and unfocussed. Good substantial presence on the palate. Drink before 2016. 1997 Pleasure score 92 Potential score 92 Logo on cork: CRL Gorgeous deep dark red. Fresh, intense nose of ripe fruit and liquorice – delicate and reduced with hints of cedar wood; fruit and fat on the palate with backbone of well-coated tannins; crammed with taste. Good length backed by cedar wood and plum. A beauty – already noted in 2005. Drink before 2023. 1999 Pleasure score 87 Potential score 88 Logo on the cork : A in a circle Lovely intense red with brown hues. Rich nose of ripe fruit and cream. Perky entry; a touch over-extracted on the mid-palate; tannins still marked on finish. Drink before 2019. Can’t say for certain it still has some ageing potential. Third flight : 2000 Virginie, l’Interdit, Valandraud and Pavie Virginie de Valandraud 2000 Pleasure score 92 Potential score 93 Logo on the cork : A in a circle Lovely intense red with brown hues. First velvety, then powerful with long and delicious persistence backed by fresh almonds notes. Drink before 2025. Fantastic score for a 53-euro price tag (185 euros for Valandraud!) Interdit de Valandraud 2000 Pleasure score 92 Potential score 92 Logo on the cork : A in a circle Downgraded as table wine in 2000 when one of a plots was covered by plastic and named l’Interdit de Valandraud. Lovely intense red with brown hues. Ripe fruit on the spicy mellow nose. Soft entry, melting in the middle, packed with fruit and rather evolved notes of merlot on finish. Standard and pleasant length. Drink before 2025. Valandraud 2000 Pleasure score 87 Potential score 90 Logo on the cork : A in a circle Deep dark youthful ruby red. Intense nose of fruit - a touch reduced. Soft entry followed by ripe fruit and marked tannins. Excess oak showing on finish and affecting pleasure score. Standard length. Drink 2016-2036. Pavie 2000 Pleasure score 90 Potential score 93 Logo on the cork : SBM Nose of truffle, a touch earthy. Hint of raspberry. Fat plump palate laden with fruit. Generous in the middle but a touch austere on finish. Good length. Appears to be closed in. Drink 2015-2035. Fourth flight : 1998, 2001, 2002, 2004 1998 Pleasure score 92 Potential score 94 Logo on the cork : CRL Generous ripe fruit on the nose with hints of truffle. Taste and aromas deliciously unfurling on the velvety, juicy and silky palate. Mellow finish with delicate hints of liquorice. With body and well-coated tannins throughout. More perfumed than any other vintage. Drink before 2035. 2001 Pleasure score 87 Potential score 91 Logo on the cork : GC Deep dark youthful ruby red. Powerful and intense nose of cream. Rich powerful and fleshy palate throughout, yet a touch austere on finish. Excess oak and marked tannins do affect the pleasure score. Drink 2016-2036. 2002 Pleasure score 84 Potential score 87 Logo on the cork : GC Fresh and ripe nose of fruit. Dry-ish in the persistence. Standard length. Lacking charm. Difficult to tell if keeping it any longer will affect it for the better. 2004 Pleasure score 90 Potential score 96 Logo on the cork : LBG Intense deep red, with tinge of brown. Extremely intense nose of ripe fruit – slightly oxidized. Hints of cedar wood. Broad generous entry; tannins apparent but fat and rich on the mid-palate. Mighty finish – oak showing but wonderfully deep, layered, tasty and lingering. Will keep for ages. Drink 2018-2040. Every member of the panel pointed out the severe character of the wine. I personally found it had great potential. All we need to do is wait - 4 or 5 years ago and found it rather austere. I believe it has mellowed. 2003 Pleasure score 94 Potential score 97 Logo on the cork : LBG Lovely intense red with brown hues. Fragrant and delicate nose of ripe fruit. Dazzling complex entry with pulp; fresh, ethereal and melting palate with plenty of sap. Long and well-coated finish backed by delicate tannins. Precise and utterly delicious. The star of the evening! Drink 2013-2035. Fifth flight : 2009, 2005. Ringers : Troplong Mondot 2005, Angelus 2006 2009 Pleasure score 90 Potential score 94 Logo on the cork : CB Intense deep red. Delicate fresh nose of fruit. Melting on entry, with sap and plenty of fruit. Tannins unfortunately excessively marked on the mid-palate. Long lingering finish, but austere. Will keep for ages. Drink 2022-2050. A disappointing bottle when compared to the one tasted at the estate a year ago and graded 18.5. 2005 Pleasure score 88 Potential score 92 Logo on cork : CB Already showing brown hues. Extremely ripe red berries on the nose. Soft entry revealing plenty of fruit and fat in the middle; lovely melting finish but a touch over-oaked in the persistence. Drink 2018-2040. Troplong Mondot 2005 Pleasure score 88 Potential score 95 Logo on cork : MS Already showing brown hues. A touch oxidated on the nose. Rich, fat, powerful palate, packed with fruit. Feels closed in despite the great length. Drink 2018-2050. Ps: I graded it 20/20 several times. Many 2005s are currently brooding and are best left unopened. Angélus 2006 Pleasure score 90 Potential score 92 Logo on cork : LBG Already showing brown hues. Subdued and really attractive nose of fruit - smoky and suave. Soft and melting palate revealing lovely aromas through to the slightly austere finish. Good length. Drink 2016-2030. Sixth flight : 2006, 2007, 2008 2006 Pleasure score 87 Potential score 90 Logo on cork : CB Already showing brown hues. Subdued nose of fruit. Soft, fruity and mellow palate, but oak very present on finish. Standard length. Drink 2016-2030. 2007 Pleasure score 87 Potential score 88 Logo on cork : CB Ripe nose of fruit; reduced even if aired. Easy and soft on the palate; lacking real complexity. Drink before 2017. 2008 Pleasure score 88 Potential score 91 Logo on cork : CB Bright glossy red. Nose of fruit and spices, still reduced. Juicy entry; plenty of fruit in the middle; powerful and austere back palate. Feels rather heavily- extracted and massive. Moderate length. Drink 2020-2035. 2010 Pleasure score 90 Potential score 95 Bright glossy red. Nose of fruit and truffle. Broad generous entry; rich powerful and poised mid-palate. Powerful tannins melting with grace. Utterly delicious notes of ink and liquorice unfurling on the palate. Long lingering finish. Tightly knit and dense. Will keep for ages. Drink 2022-2050. 2011 Pleasure score 88 Potential score 93 Bright glossy red. Nose of fruit and truffle. Fleshy substantial palate, yet melting with grace, taste and delicate tannins. Delicious lingering finish, a touch more perky than the 2009. Drink 2020-2035. Jean-Marc Quarin goes east On March 30 and 31, I will be hosting two exclusive gala dinners around Cheval Blanc and Liber Pater, on the Isle of Hainan, in China. I’d be delighted if you could attend. Please contact me for full programme. On April 1 and 2, I will be a guest at a Beijing wine merchant’s. On May 31, I will give a talk on the taste of Bordeaux wines to 550 guests at the Hong Kong French Chamber of Commerce and Industry annual gala dinner. On June 1, I will give a master class at the Hong-Kong Wine Vault. I’d be delighted if you could attend. Please contact me for full programme. Enjoy! Jean-Marc Quarin __________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010. This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@quarin.com The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

2013 Chronicles

Chronicle n° 143: full vertical tasting of Château Valandraud, Saint-Emilion grand cru, from 1991 to 2011, purchased bottles

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