Chronicles 160 - 161: the Quarin Guide’s Outsiders Expo on 23 November 2013: conclusions, feedback and tasting notes

The Quarin Guide’s Outsiders Expo on 23 November 2013: conclusions, feedback and tasting notes My end of year gift: the “Wines for Less” service available and active now in the database The Quarin Bordeaux Wine Guide available again (in French) Chronicles 160 and 161 (11 December and 21 December 2013) The Quarin Guide’s Outsiders Expo on 23 November 2013: conclusions, feedback and tasting notes What a day! Thank you for all your encouraging feedback on how enjoyable the Expo was for you. Here is a summary of how people felt about how it went. My English readers can get an idea of the Expo from its website, which is in French this year, but you can see the list of wines I invited to take part: http://www.lesalondesoutsiders.com Number of visitors 6,524 people browsed the Expo’s website up to 25 November; 617 visitors came to the Expo. Experts consider these numbers to be very good, especially considering that the idea only emerged in June and the first contacts were made with the venue and the estate owners in July. Promotion only started as of October. The identity of an event is established The feedback was very consistent and falls into a number of clearly delimited categories that nicely characterise the event. The first surprise comes from this remark from the producers: - “We’ve never seen visitors like these before”, meaning as educated, as eager to listen, as motivated, passionate and respectful. Stand holders often spoke of the length of time spent discussing the products and learning more, and how often people came back. The second surprise was how the producers all found the visitors “extremely warm and friendly”. There was no doubt how clearly delighted both producers and visitors were to be together. The overall atmosphere was very party-like. The third type of observation was also about how serious the visitors were: - “It was the first expo where the visitors were not all drunk in the last hour.” Amen. The fourth comment came from both the visitors and exhibitors: “All the wines are really good”, and “I didn’t find one misfit”. Of course they were! How could the concept have worked otherwise? How could you ask exhibitors to pay to highlight their craft, while always thinking that their wine might not be up to scratch? Sorry, for me that would have been too cynical. I couldn’t have done that. It would have been counter-productive for the visitors, the exhibitors, for Fabrice Leger and myself. But such situations obviously do exist, according to what one participant reported: “I came with my friend, but I was dragging my feet, because I really thought it was just another Bordeaux tasting. In fact I found the wines fantastic and the workshops were a new way to approach tasting, which wasn’t over the top.” The fifth set of observations was about the tasting workshops. The themes of each one can still be seen on the website. They involved me from 11.0 a.m. to 7.0 p.m. non-stop. They obviously swept away a lot of old prejudices about how to assess quality in the taste of wine and helped people see through the way the quality of wines is frequently described. We looked at new ways of considering quality in wine that are clearer and make talking about wine easier with friends and relations. On this subject a friend reported the comments of a professional, who told him: - “It was so good! I feel ashamed to admit I don’t know Mr Quarin after 25 years of selling wine in Bordeaux”. I share this fine compliment here, so you can savour the full meaning of it. What I will improve next time (Double or quits! Yes, there should be a next time). Print page numbers in the tasting notebook and use stand numbers, which relate to them. I admit this point was one of the hardest for me, because I had separated the wines into left bank and right bank, since everyone can prefer one or the other when they are of similar quality. Working out the best order for the wines to be tasted in made it complicated to settle on the itinerary of the visit. I wanted it right, so that differences between the wines, which were all good, would not be diminished, but at the same time organise it so that tasters got a break and did not feel saturated. I wanted to keep tasters’ interest always fresh and intact. What was even harder was to allow for visitors, who wouldn’t necessarily follow the order suggested by the stand numbers. Even if people started at the end of an aisle or elsewhere, their subsequent path should still highlight each wine properly. This all took time to work out and the notebook was already printed before I made my final choice. The other difficulty was where to site the stands on which both white and red wines were served. I would have preferred to separate the two to call more attention to the dry whites. In the end, I had to bow to the logistical constraints: the estate owners could not use twice the number of people to cover two different serving stations and in any case, we didn’t have enough room from more stands. I believe the message I was trying to convey with regard to the taste of these wines lost its impact, especially for the less well-known wines. Was the specific variation in the Bordeaux dry whites properly perceived? Again all the wines were good. The most differentiated was the Rayne Vigneau dry white. I scored the 2012 15 // 87 as I did the 2011. The sheer purity of the nose with its ripe fruit and freshness and the quality of its texture with its silky feel really stood out. Well done! And the price is less than €10 a bottle. What I won’t change Still in terms of how the wines were served, having the Sauternes and Barsac at the entrance to the Expo in the position of an aperitif worked well. However some of the journalists, who thought they knew better, criticised this decision. I tried tasting the sweet whites first, using the water and bread available to rinse my palate, before going on to the dry whites and reds. I didn’t find any form of aftertaste lingering on. I am convinced that displaying sweet white wines at the end of the visit would be like serving them at the end of a meal, when the taste buds are no longer sensitive. At worst the visitors just missed them out; at best they didn’t say “too heavy”, as is often said at the end of a meal. Did you notice that 2 of the finest wines in the Expo were available at the entrance? The Guiraud 2009 (19 // 98) is a marvel of balance, subtlety, smoothness and grace. The thicker Nairac 2009 (18 // 96) was a little below. La Clotte Cazalis, the top wine of the Expo, is a fine illustration of old Semillon vines and clayey limestone soil. The wine has more flavour than body, is full of grace and impossible to spit out. 2009 (16.25 // 91) and 2005 (16 // 90). The red wines at the Expo Along the various aisles many estates presented some exceptional 2009s and 2010s. I would recommend you to still take full advantage of these vintages. As is often the case with wine, great things are often only recognised a long time afterwards, so avoid disappointment and grab what you still can! And don’t leave the attractions of these great wines untasted. Open them up, even when they are still young! Alongside the 2009s and 2010s, there were two fantastic 2011’s. Clos Puy Arnaud first (16.25 // 91), a model of elegance with enough of everything and the inimitable burst of fruit that changes the whole wine. Then Clos Manou, which scored 16.75 // 93. I’ve tasted it 3 times after bottling and it is quite simply the best of all Clos Manou. It has a higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), which makes it the most elegant and the greatest of them all. Martet 2009 (15.5 // 88), so elegantly fleshy on the palate and already impossible to spit out. An extreme 100% Merlot. Tour Haut Caussan 2009 (16 // 90) only costs €13 tax included from the chateau. It is the best ever made as well as the 2003, which is drinking well now. At dinner, I tasted a great 1990 (16.25 // 91). Fontenil 2009 (15.75 //89), very fragrant, soft and powerful on the palate and still a little woody on the finish. I haven’t tasted Défi de Fontenil 2005 again. This wine is generally the best Fronsac even if it is only classified as a French table wine. Have you ever tasted Valmengaux 2010 ? (15 // 87) It’s a tasty nicely put together Bordeaux that caresses the palate and is very fruity. La Mauriane 2010 (16.5 //92) displays the loveliest tannic structure I know from this estate and is so touchingly juicy. I prefer the 2010 of La Fleur de Boüard (16.25 // 91). It has more sparkle and less wood than the 2009 (16 // 90). Moulin Haut Laroque 2010 (16.5 //92) is the best achievement from this chateau and beats the 2009 (16.25 // 91). The 2001 served at table (16.25 // 91) displays delightful volume and rich suppleness. Who could tell it’s a Fronsac? Laroze 2010 (16.75 //93) is the most brilliant wine from the chateau. It ticks all the boxes, it is fragrant and energetic and beats the 2009 (16.5 // 92), which is as smooth, but more tender. Fonroque . I love the brilliance, depth and volume of the 2010 (16.5 // 92). The 2009 is very good too, (16.25 // 91) it shines only slightly less, but you need to decant it two hours before. Corbin 2009 (16.5 // 92). Served blind in a master class alongside Clauzet 2010 (16.5 // 92) to compare the different profiles of right bank and left bank wines, it initially appeared less powerful, less lively and with less tannin, before expressing a lovely finish with a raspberry flavour, meticulous grain and less catchy than Clauzet: identical quality, different type. This profile is immediately less tender than the Saint-Estèphe and more hedonistic than Fonroque or Laroze, which were next door at the Expo. Grand Pontet 2009 (17 // 94). This was one of the best wines at the Expo. I have opened 12 bottles in just one year! It has it all. Despite its 14.7 degrees of alcohol and 70% Merlot, this wine has a stretching finish as if it came from the left bank. It needs to be said that it contains 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, not to mention the role of the limestone in elongating the tasting experience. La Clotte. I prefer the 2008 (16.75 // 93) and the 2010 (17 // 94) better than the 2009 (16.5 // 92), which is a little less well put together. 2 great wines with black cherry aromas, which are long-keeping. You can still find the 2008 for less than €25 before tax. After La Clotte, visitors were supposed to go on to Seguin into the world of Graves with softer, more abundant flesh. The 2010 (16.5 // 92) leaves the 2009 (15.5 // 92) far behind. With this wine the word “multilayered” turns up in my comments. As planned, Seguin will go a very long way if it sticks to this route. I prefer Clauzet 2010 (16.5 // 92) to the 2009 (16.25 // 91), which seems to be closing up. The explosion of flavours from the mid-palate is superb! Branas Grand Poujeaux at Moulis. I tasted this wine again after being bottled. The 2009 (16 // 90) beats the 2010 (15.75 // 89) with its smoothness, its soft, richly supple flesh and its power; it is more hedonistic and fresher. Arnauld . 2010 and 2009 draw (16 // 90). They clearly broadcast the ambitions of an estate, whose very high-profile 2012 I am monitoring closely. The 2009 is impossible to spit out today! Cambon La Pelouse . I prefer the 2009 (15.75 // 89) to the 2010 (15.5 // 88). It is creamier, more precisely crafted and the best wine from the estate alongside the 2005, a vintage which is delicious at the moment. Note that it is beginning to take on the bouquet of an aging wine. This property is improving since my most recent Guide. Pibran . When they set up the long ageing process in 2006, the profile of this wine changed radically. Sometimes I find the 2009 better, sometimes I prefer the 2010: both have scores from 16.5 // 92 to 16.75 // 93, and both tick all the boxes. Beware, the 2011 (16 // 90) will seduce your palate! Lagrange is the only Medoc classed growth that I contacted for the Expo, because it often stands out in blind tastings. The brilliant and fragrant 2010 (17 // 94) was displayed alongside a 2003 (16.25 // 91), which was fleshier than when I last tasted it in Switzerland and more in line with what I usually taste. It can be served decanted at the very last minute. Malartic Lagravière is also the only Graves classed growth I asked to take part. The 2004, which is very pleasant at the moment (16 // 90) preceded a terrific 2010 (17 // 94), which was structured, fragrant, long, fleshy, brilliant and fine-grained. Tronquoy Lalande 2010 (16.75 // 93) was a revelation for many. Few people are aware of the potential of this place. The boundless energy of the 2010, its rich suppleness, its multilayered flavours and its grain that is quite fine for Saint-Estèphe give you a first idea. The 2009 (15.75 // 89) is a little austere. I give Haut Bergey 2010 and 2009 the same score (16.5 // 92); both are fine achievements. It is the only wine in the Expo to display such a smoky nose. The 2010 has a livelier taste, while the 2009 has a softer style. Barde Haut 2010 (16.75 // 93). I consider it better than the 2009 (16.5 // 92) because of its general brilliance. Its low pH balances 14.7 degrees of invisible alcohol perfectly because it is so fascinatingly fresh and richly supple. This is the greatest wine produced by Barde Haut. The two stars of the Expo were Clos l’Eglise 2010 and Branon 2010, which I scored the same (18.5 // 97). Two splendidly powerful and refined wines. 25% Cabernet Franc gives Branon’s nose an incomparable aroma. While Clos l’Eglise is spherical, being a right-bank wine, Branon stretches out like a rectangle with no corners. Branon 2010 is better than the 2009 (17 // 94) and thus becomes the best ever made. Those who missed it will make do with the 2011 (16.75 // 93), a sheer marvel in terms of balance and delicate flavours. During the workshops, some people enjoyed the delicious Clos l’Eglise 2004 (17.25 // 94), which is beginning to open up and which shines for its overall softness and its fine grain. Decant at the last minute. The guest of honour was Ixsir from Lebanon. I tasted the 3 brands – Altitude, Grande Réserve and El Ixsir – again with my Paris club on 4 December and will report on them later. I am following the adventures of this wine, which began in 2008. Last year in Lebanon and again in Aquitaine in January, these superb wines distinguished themselves magnificently in public and blind tastings, which is why I invited their maker to come to the Expo. When people’s craft combined with careful selection of the best terroirs work with the magic of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends, here is the splendid result: El Ixsir 2009 17/20 or 94/100 What a joy to find such great qualities in a Lebanese red wine! Good colour, an elegant, pure, subtle nose with fresh, ripe fruit and a lovely smell of blackberry jelly and a touch of spice. It redefines the prototype of wines from the south, often accused of being too heavy and monolithic. This is lush on the palate as soon as it passes the lips, then slender and full with no heaviness, elegantly knit and flavoursome, made with the lovely balance and tactile hints of the very best wines. It melts on the palate and finishes long and powerful. Here there isn’t an ounce of the dryness on the finish, which has often bothered me in wines from this region. Quite the opposite, despite its youth, the enjoyment factor is already very pronounced. This combination of classical with hedonistic is so beguiling! It leads me to believe in a fine future for this country as its terroirs wake up. Bravo! Blended with 60% Shiraz, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot. Wait until 2017, then up to 2030. In the end, we had a great time! I was delighted to welcome (back) visitors from afar. My end of year gift An update of the database with 550 new comments, but especially now and for the whole Christmas and New Year period, subscribers will have access to the “Wines for Less” service. All you have to do is click on the underlined price of a wine in the list. This is a real service and a strong indication of the value of the wines. However, a wine is a lot more than just a price, especially in Bordeaux. It is up to you to study the quality of your suppliers carefully and to request adequate information on the condition of the wines that you buy. Unfortunately, none of this features in writing anywhere and is only confirmed on our discerning palates. The Quarin Bordeaux Wine Guide available again (in French) 500 more copies were printed for the Outsiders Expo. They would make a fantastic Christmas gift for friends and family! There will be no further printing. Click here to learn more and order the Guide: /le_guide_quarin.php In a few days, I will publish another number on the 2003s. I wish you all a very merry Christmas and a happy new year. Jean-Marc Quarin _________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010. This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@quarin.com The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

2013 Chronicles

Chronicles 160 - 161: the Quarin Guide’s Outsiders Expo on 23 November 2013: conclusions, feedback and tasting notes

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