BORDEAUX 2013 : THE OUTCOME (5)

Pauillac and Saint-Julien 2013 - 50 winesReport 5 (20 April 2014)For the attention of readers who subscribe during the Primeurs campaign Dear Reader, Thank you for the trust you have shown in my assessments and comments. I hope they will enable you to enjoy better wines. Please note the following three important points to make our exchanges easier: - The reports on the primeur tastings published before you subscribed will not be sent by E-mail. These are readily available to you on my website. - Your log-in identifiers are sent when you originally subscribe, never when you re-subscribe. You can recover your password automatically using the “Forgot your password?” facility. Your username is your E-mail address. - Click on the site logo often to refresh your links and don’t forget to clear your browser’s cache memory so that you can see the latest updates. _____________________________________________________________ Médoc 2013 Has there ever been so much Cabernet Sauvignon in the Medoc wine blends? Perhaps in 1984 after the disastrous Merlot fruit set. Since then, winegrowing has changed in quality and the experience of 2013 imposed by Nature could breed ideas to profoundly modify the proportion of the various grape varieties grown in Medoc vineyards. The issue of global warming also makes thoughts evolve in this direction. The only catch however is that you have to own a good or great terroir for Cabernet Sauvignon. As a ballpark estimation, I would say that the areas that meet this criterion are less than those used today (C.f. the comparison of the areas under cultivation when the 1855 classification was carried out and those of today). The wines would have more breeding and the hierarchy of the estates would be clearer. The Medoc would look much more like Burgundy. The dynamics of supply and demand would keep prices very high. Second wines would be more Merlot-based and the Medoc would learn to make them enjoyable when young to please the markets. If an economic crisis hit, blends would assert their primacy unless if before then, areas became classified like in Burgundy at the expense of brands. Overall, the wines of Pauillac in 2013 are a little better than those of Saint-Julien. Have a great weekend. Jean-Marc Quarin Pauillac 2013: 28 winesARMAILHAC (D') Pauillac Potentiel : 88 Enjoyment : 88 This wine stands out with its sparkling fruit, its smooth body that is well-built and pleasant. Delicious. A blend of 59 % cabernet sauvignon, 28 % merlot, 12 % cabernet franc, 1 % petit verdot. 2016 - 2025 BATAILLEY Pauillac Potentiel : 88 Enjoyment : 88 It has body, elegant tannins and an approach that is always a little austere when young. Ageing will make it smoother. A blend of 94 % cabernet sauvignon, 4 % merlot and 2 % petit verdot. 2016 - 2025 BELLEGRAVE Pauillac Potentiel : 85 Enjoyment : 85 Fruity, pleasant wine, but light. 2016 - 2022 CARRUADES DE LAFITE Pauillac Potentiel : 86 Enjoyment : 86 Fruity, pleasant wine, but light. 2016 - 2022 CLERC MILON Pauillac Potentiel : 87 Enjoyment : 87 A Clerc Milon without sharp points; flavoursome and pure fruit. Medium body and length. A blend of 58 % cabernet sauvignon, 27 % merlot, 12 % cabernet franc, 2 % petit verdot, 1 % carmenère. 2018 - 2025 CROIZET BAGES Pauillac Potentiel : 85 Enjoyment : 83 Light wine. A little firm on the finish. 2016 - 2022 DUHART MILON ROTHSCHILD Pauillac Potentiel : 87 Enjoyment : 87 Fruity, flavoursome, pleasant wine with medium body and length. 2016 - 2022 FLEUR PEYRABON (LA) Pauillac Potentiel : 86 Enjoyment : 86 Fruity, pleasant wine, but light. 2016 - 2022 FONBADET Pauillac Potentiel : 85 Enjoyment : 85 Fruity, pleasant wine, but light. 2016 - 2022 FORTS DE LATOUR (LES) Pauillac Potentiel : 88 Enjoyment : 88 Fruity nose. Flavoursome on the palate with body, elegant tannins, but medium length. A blend of 62,7 % cabernet sauvignon, 31,1 % merlot, 2,2 % petit verdot. Alcool : 13°12. IPT 61. 2018 - 2025 GRAND PUY DUCASSE Pauillac Potentiel : 86 - 87 Enjoyment : 86 This wine is a little woodier than usual in the way it presents, since Hubert de Boüard became consultant for the estate. 2016 - 2022 GRAND PUY LACOSTE Pauillac Potentiel : 90 Enjoyment : 90 Since 2012, when Ms. Cristel Spinner arrived as R&D manager, this wine has progressed in its attention to detail, apparent when it is tasted. Well done! Elegant aromas, delicate and succulent, a straight line over the tongue so characteristic of the Cabernet Sauvignon, sparkling fruit and gently extracted. Burgundy style. A blend of 80 % cabernet sauvignon and 20 % merlot. 2018 - 2025 HAUT BAGES LIBÉRAL Pauillac Potentiel : 86 Enjoyment : 86 Light body and a little firm on the finish. 2016 - 2022 HAUT BATAILLEY Pauillac Potentiel : 87 Enjoyment : 87 Meticulous work on the aromas more than on the substance, which promotes the enjoyment of drinking this wine straightaway. Flavoursome. Medium body and length. 2016 - 2022 LACOSTE BORIE Pauillac Potentiel : 85 Enjoyment : 85 Light wine. 2016 - 2020 LAFITE ROTHSCHILD Pauillac Potentiel : 90 Enjoyment : 88 This wine has a silky texture with ripe fruit but no sparkle. Soft tannins and fragrant on the finish. A blend of 98 % cabernet sauvignon, 2 % merlot. 2016 - 2025 LATOUR Pauillac Potentiel : 90 Enjoyment : 90 Quite a reserved Latour, flavoursome, but without its usual vigour between the mid-palate and the finish. Standard length. Ageing will tell us the rest. A blend of 95,3 % cabernet sauvignon, 4,3 % merlot, 0,4 % petit verdot. Alcool : 13°4. IPT 63. 2018 - 2030 LYNCH BAGES Pauillac Potentiel : 89 - 90 Enjoyment : 88 Sparkling fruit and more tannic on the palate than its neighbours as is often the case at this age for Lynch Bages. However, cellaring does it proud. A blend of 72 % cabernet sauvignon, 20 % merlot, 6 % cabernet franc, 2 % petit verdot. 2016 - 2025 LYNCH MOUSSAS Pauillac Potentiel : 86 Enjoyment : 86 Fruity, flavoursome, pleasant wine and a little light. 2016 - 2022 MOUTON ROTHSCHILD Pauillac Potentiel : 93 Enjoyment : 92With this score, Mouton Rothschild tops the list of 2013 Bordeaux reds. Hats off, yet again to Philippe Dhalluin and his team, whose latest vintages are delightful. (See my Chronicle of December 2013.) Elegant, fruity nose. Well put together on the palate, smooth and with refined texture, body and length. Difficult to spit out. It’s the smallest volume produced since 1969: less than 30% of a usual harvest. Alcool: 12,8. pH : 3.6. IPT : 63. A blend of 89 % cabernet sauvignon, 7 % merlot, 4 % cabernet franc. 2018 - 2030 PAUILLAC 3ème vin du Château LATOUR Pauillac Potentiel : 86 Enjoyment : 86 Fruity, flavoursome, pleasant wine and a little light. 2016 - 2022 PEDESCLAUX Pauillac Potentiel : 87 Enjoyment : 87 Very enjoyable wine with a fruity nose and a hint of vanilla. Smooth on the palate. . Medium body and length. A blend of 3 % cabernet sauvignon, 43 % merlot, 4 % cabernet franc. 2016 - 2022 PETIT MOUTON DE MOUTON ROTHSCHILD Pauillac Potentiel : 89 Enjoyment : 87Exclusive! A Petit Mouton with 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and just 7% Merlot! No more Cabernet Franc, which always made this wine difficult to fathom en primeur. Elegantly fleshy and aromatic on the palate. Good finish. Delicious! This achievement as indeed that of Mouton, are due to the use of the new vathouse. The number of tanks has been doubled compared to the previous one, which gives far more room for manoeuvre when selecting batches from the various plots. 2016 - 2025 PIBRAN Pauillac Potentiel : 87 Enjoyment : 87 An Outsider that got the vintage dead right! Great taste, fruit that sparkles, round on the palate, fine tannins and loads of enjoyment. A blend of 52 % cabernet sauvignon et 48 % merlot. 2016 - 2022 PICHON LONGUEVILLE BARON Pauillac Potentiel : 92 Enjoyment : 90 It has all the ingredients of a great terroir including its reserved nature en primeur. The fruit sparkles; the wine has body and a refined, soft, smooth mouthfeel. The finish is sappy and persistent. It’s delicious! A blend of 82 % cabernet sauvignon et 18 % merlot. 2018 - 2030 PICHON LONGUEVILLE COMTESSE DE LALANDE Pauillac Potentiel : 90 Enjoyment : 90 Since 2012, the estate has moved towards more Cabernet Sauvignon. Nature left it no choice and no Merlot in 2013, but its soft texture carries on. Ageing could improve it. 100 % cabernet sauvignon. 2016 - 2025 PONTET CANET Pauillac Potentiel : 92 Enjoyment : 90 I was surprised to be served this wine decanted. Since it is still in barrels this was not appropriate in my view. I asked for another sample to compare. In fact, the score is nearly the same, but not for the same reasons. Decanted, the wine has a more approachable (creamy) nose and undecanted it has a more elegant nose, but not so easy to assess for visitors. On the palate, I liked the undecanted version, which was closer to a Medoc profile with body shaped by the Cabernet Sauvignon, sparkling fruit characteristic of biodynamic husbandry and rising stimulation of practically noble proportions. The decanted version was immediately wider on the attack and mid-palate, which attracts most people, but its tannin was drier and its overall style more right bank than left bank. I prefer the undecanted version. A blend of 65 % cabernet sauvignon, 30 % merlot, 4 % cabernet franc, 1 % petit verdot. 2018 - 2030 TOURELLES DE LONGUEVILLE (LES) Pauillac Potentiel : 86 Enjoyment : 86 Fruity, flavoursome, pleasant wine and a little tanic. 2016 - 2022 Saint-Julien 2013 - 22 winesBEYCHEVELLE Saint-Julien Potentiel : 87 Enjoyment : 87 Beychevelle handles this difficult vintage well without weakness while holding onto its aromatic flair and its fine tannins. Great enjoyment. A blend of 55 % cabernet sauvignon, 36 % merlot, 9 % petit verdot. 2016 - 2025 BRANAIRE Saint-Julien Potentiel : 90 Enjoyment : 90 A fine achievement, which demonstrates this wine’s progress since it began using its press wines differently in 2011. Lots of fruit, great balance, a refined feel and exactly the same tannin index as the delicious, much ignored 1996 (TPI: 55). A blend of 63 % cabernet sauvignon, 31 % merlot, 5 % petit verdot, 1 % cabernet franc. 2016 - 2025 BRIDANNE (LA) Saint-Julien Potentiel : 85 Enjoyment : 85 Light wine. 2016 - 2022 CLOS DU MARQUIS Saint-Julien Potentiel : 88 Enjoyment : 87 Medium body with no tannic sharpness, flavoursome, pleasant, but not powerful. A blend of 73% cabernet sauvignon, 18% merlot and 9% cabernet franc. Selection: 60% for grand vin. Alcohol content: 13 - pH: 3.77 - IPT: 61 2018 - 2025 DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU Saint-Julien Ducru Baucaillou: the estate does not like my comments and has not received me since 2010, the year in which it tried to get everyone to believe that it had produced the vintage of the century so as to catch up with the prices of Léoville Las Cases and Palmer. The bottles of this estate that friends serve me blind too often illustrate a wine that is below the expected standard. FIEFS DE LAGRANGE (LES) Saint-Julien Potentiel : 86 Enjoyment : 86 Fruity, flavoursome, pleasant wine and a little light. 2016 - 2022 GLANA (DU) Saint-Julien Potentiel : 85 Enjoyment : 83 Light and tannic wine. 2016 - 2022 GLORIA Saint-Julien Potentiel : 87 Enjoyment : 87 Fruity, round, flavoursome and enjoyable. Medium body and length. 2016 - 2022 GRUAUD LAROSE Saint-Julien Potentiel : 89 Enjoyment : 88 Fruity nose. Tender, fruity and flavoursome on the palate. Medium body and standart length.. A blend of 77 % cabernet sauvignon, 21 % merlot, 2 % cabernet franc. 2016 - 2025 LAGRANGE Saint-Julien Potentiel : 89 Enjoyment : 88 Nice work by Matthieu Bordes, who kept the soaks short so as to take only the ripest attributes of the fruit. Flavoursome, soft and smooth, and standard length. A blend of 75 % cabernet sauvignon, 21 % merlot 4 % petit verdot. IPT: 61. 2016 - 2025 LANGOA BARTON Saint-Julien Potentiel : 87 Enjoyment : 87 Round, flavoursome and has taste. . Medium body and length. 2016 - 2022 LEOVILLE BARTON Saint-Julien Potentiel : 89 Enjoyment : 88 Subtle nose. Refined mouthfeel, smooth, flavoursome texture. Moderately powerful, despite a large proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. We’ll see what happens during ageing. A blend of 85 % cabernet sauvignon, 15 % merlot. 2016 - 2025 LEOVILLE LAS CASES Saint-Julien Potentiel : 91 Enjoyment : 88 A Las Cases with a discrete nose, fruity on the palate with girth, a little tender and standard length. A blend of 74% cabernet sauvignon, 14% cabernet franc,12% merlot. Alcohol content: 13°1 - pH: 3.69 - IPT: 63 2018 - 2030 LÉOVILLE POYFERRÉ Saint-Julien Potentiel : 91 Enjoyment : 90 A nicely made Poyferré, although it has slightly extracted tannins on the finish. It is still flavoursome and aromatic. Standard length. A blend of 65 % cabernet sauvignon, 26 % merlot, 6 % petit verdot, 3 % cabernet franc. 2018 - 2025 MOULIN DE LA ROSE Saint-Julien Potentiel : 86 Enjoyment : 86 Fruity, flavoursome, pleasant wine and a little light. 2016 - 2022 MOULIN RICHE Saint-Julien Potentiel : 86 Enjoyment : 86 More tannic and less breeding than the Pavillon de Léoville Poyferré. 2016 - 2022 ORMES (LES) Saint-Julien Potentiel : 85 Enjoyment : 85 Light wine. 2016 - 2022 PAVILLON DE LEOVILLE POYFERRE Saint-Julien Potentiel : 87 Enjoyment : 87 The young vines of Léoville Poyferré on the best plots, which are mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, produce this fragrant, flavoursome, gracious and spiritual wine, which is not powerful. It resembles a Margaux. Buy it in magnums. 2016 - 2022 PETIT LION (LE) Saint-Julien Potentiel : 88 Enjoyment : 88 The young vines in the Enclosure, next to Latour, produce this fragrant wine with breeding, characteristic of a great Medoc terroir. Buy it in magnums. A blend of 46 % cabernet sauvignon, 53% merlot, 1% cabernet franc. 2016 - 2025 SAINT PIERRE (Sevaistre) Saint-Julien Potentiel : 89 Enjoyment : 88 Delicate, smooth and spicy with an elegant mouthfeel. Standard length. A blend of 74 % cabernet sauvignon, 18 % merlot, 8 % cabernet franc. 2016 - 2025 TALBOT Saint-Julien Potentiel : 89 Enjoyment : 88 Since 2011, Talbot has become a real Saint-Julien with fuller body, while still caressing the palate. Very pleasing. A blend of 78 % cabernet sauvignon, 18 % merlot, 4 % petit verdot. 2016 - 2025 TEYNAC Saint-Julien Potentiel : 86 Enjoyment : 86 Fruity, flavoursome, pleasant wine and a little light. 2016 - 2022 _______________________________________________________________________© Copyright This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@quarin.com The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

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BORDEAUX 2013 : THE OUTCOME (5)

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