Chronicle 163: Mouton Rothschild vertical tasting from 1988 to 2010, purchased bottles

Mouton Rothschild vertical tasting from 1988 to 2010. Which ones are good to drink in 2014? Chronicles 163 (15 february 2014) Between November 2010 and December 2013, I performed three vertical tastings of Mouton Rothschild at private persons’ homes; two in Switzerland and one last December in Luxembourg. On 22 and 23 November 2010 in Switzerland, I tasted these wines blind and in public on two consecutive evenings. The bottles were decanted. The vintages ran from 1988 to 2007. This fanciful idea was to test the regularity of the wines, as well as myself. This tasting produced the idea for another, planned for 24 November 2014: a comparative vertical tasting of Mouton Rothschild and La Mission Haut Brion, about which I’ll tell you more later. In Luxembourg last December, we tasted 1989, 1990, 1992, 1993, 1996, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2007 and 2008. Except for the 1996, the wines were served undecanted and with their labels visible. We were twelve enthusiasts; ten of us were over 50 and two were less than 40. My greatest delight was to see that the wines that were the most liked during the evening were the vintages which illustrated the new departure of Mouton Rothschild, i.e. 2004, 2007 and 2008. Very valuable information in my view, which means that quality is stronger than “cultural” habits. Not that the tasters didn’t like the previous vintages, but as soon as a wine was fleshier and finely textured, it triggered enjoyment that could be objectively discussed. In the vintages, whose quality could be challenged more, comments were more subjectively based and were much less unanimous. 1988 16 // 90 Scored 89 then 92 in 2010. The two bottles are different on the finish. One is long and packed with blackcurrant aromas and smoky and is powerful; the other is more ordinary and dominated by acidity and tannin. Drink now and up to 2015! 1989 16 // 90 A pleasant wine, but a little raw. My three previous comments spoke of a finish lacking in maturity. Should have been drunk young for more enjoyment. 1990 15.5 // 88 An ordinary 1990, which is a little diluted and below the reputation of the vintage. Should have been drunk young for more enjoyment. 1992 14.5 // 86 A modest vintage, nicely made but ordinary and a bit acidic on the finish. Should have been drunk earlier. 1993 14.5 // 86 In December the bottle was thin and lacking. In 2010, I tasted it on two consecutive evenings and scored it 90, concluding that it was a success for the year. Medium body, softened tannins. Drink now and up to 2015. 1994 15.75-16 // 89-90 These are the two scores given in 2010. Still square tannins on the finish. Eat something fatty with it to soften it. Drink now and up to 2016. 1995 16.25 // 91 Identical scores on both evenings. Here the nose has changed. It has become fresher and displays a hint of vanilla, more clear-cut too (perhaps with less press wine?) than the previous vintages. Could be bigger on the palate. The tannin has a rustic grain, but the wine has good length. Drink now and up to 2020. 1996 17 // 94 This vintage is getting better: it was scored 90 and 91 in 2010. We know that it needs to be decanted 4 or 5 hours before serving. (See history in the database). Even decanted 2 hours before being served, it was superb. Complex nose with blackcurrant and vanilla. It caresses the palate, fills the mouth in the middle and is juicy and has taste; fine tannins. Flavoursome and fresh on the finish with a touch of ink. Sheer enjoyment! Drink now and up to 2030. 1997 15 // 87 Scored twice the same, this is an ordinary wine with a nose of ripe and jammy fruits and a touch of animal. Tender, but fluid on the palate, sometimes a little dry. Should have been drunk earlier. 1998 15.5 // 88 My scores keep going down and I don’t think this wine will provide the enjoyment we expect. It was better young, while its fruit protected it. What I don’t like about it is its square, rustic finish. Sell them off! 1999 15 // 87 Disappointing for this level of wine. What I don’t like is it’s too fluid! Needs to be drunk quickly. 2000 17.5 // 95 This is the score from last week compared to 93 and 89 two years before. Could be opening like all the 2000’s at the moment. Could also be differences between bottles. In December 2013, it was fleshy and ticked all the boxes with a grand, subtle, multilayered finish and lovely tannins. Wait until 2017 and before 2040. 2001 17 // 94 This is the score from the last 3 tastings! This is a very unusual wine, which is still far from having fully expressed itself. It is fleshy and decanting it improves the grain of its tannin. More reminiscent of a vineyard in southern France than Pauillac! Wait until 2016 and before 2040. 2002 17 // 94 Absent in December, this wine got 94 twice in 2010. It is a great achievement for the vintage, but it closed up again in 2011. Wait until 2016 and before 2030. 2003 17 // 94 This is the score of last December compared to 90 in June 2013, 96 and 92 in 2010. All three bottles came from the same case, so there are differences from one bottle to another. This wine is quite rich and supple for the vintage, and is long and flavoursome. Fine tannins without the dryness, which characterises the taste of this vintage. Astonishing. Drink now and before 2030. 2004 17.25 // 94-95 This last December’s score compared to 94 achieved twice in 2010. This is Philippe Dalhuin’s first vintage. He has enabled this wine to illustrate its legendary successes of the early sixties. With its intense colour, its nose is superb, very expressive, deep and multi-layered; it is purer and more clear-cut than the preceding vintages. On the palate, this is the freshest Mouton up to this point in the tasting. Richly supple, fleshy, noble texture; it is especially flavoursome and finishes with fine tannin. It’s hard to believe that this is the same property. Man’s work is indeed a second terroir! Enthusiasts of young wines will open it or wait until 2016 and before 2035. 2005 ? The two scores given in 2010 were 85? and 93, a long way off the 97 average that appears on my website! One bottle finished dry, while the other had a green nose and a mellow palate lacking expression. We can only conclude that there are already differences between one bottle and another, and on top of that this vintage has closed up. Wait until 2020 and before 2050. 2006 17 // 94 This is the score obtained twice in 2010 on consecutive evenings. Lovely fresh nose that is intense, fruity, elegant and smoky. The wine caresses the palate; it is very fruity, full of flavours of ink, vanilla and red fruit with body. Long flavoursome finish with no harsh grain. Wait until 2020 and before 2040. 2007 17 // 94 This vintage received this score last December and twice in 2010. It is one of the greatest wines of 2007: fleshy, sappy, moderately powerful, but delicious. Enthusiasts of young wines will open it before 2030, decanted or not. 2008 18 // 96 Great accomplishment! Dark, young colour. Very fruity, pure nose. Richly supple on the palate, very fragrant, very flavoursome, full with an outstandingly refined feel, this wine melts in the mouth and finishes deliciously with great succulent length! Ideal as a gift. Wait until 2018 and before 2035. 2009 18 // 96 Tasted at the chateau. Very pretty dark colour. Superb intense nose that is elegant, fruity and fresh with a hint of vanilla. Its freshness stops the wine opening out on the palate even if it is decanted. It remains discrete, which is surprising for this sumptuous vintage. The finish draws the attention more; it is appealing and impossible to spit out with fine tannins and a distinguished aroma. Wait until 2018 and before 2035. 2010 19 // 98 Tasted at the chateau. This is the greatest Mouton since 1986! Very coloured, it has a great multilayered nose that is fresh, but creamy with fruit and vanilla, and a subtle touch of blackcurrant. A quintessential Cabernet Sauvignon on warm gravel! Decanting it amplifies the palate sensations. The wine has a silky mouthfeel and a long, rich body as well as being smooth. Complex from the middle on with tight, but fine-grained tannins, it ends with a very long aromatic finish. It’s the finest tannin ever experienced in this wine. Blended with 94% Cabernet Sauvignon and scarcely 6% Merlot. Not quite 13.7° alcohol content. Wait until 2022, then drink up to 2060. Conclusion All these tastings lead me to think that between 1988 and 2010, Mouton Rothschild produced three very distinct types of wine: - From 1988 to 1999, the wines are characterised by toasted, smoky noses with somewhat tired fruit, medium body and above all grainy tannins on the finish. - From 2000 to 2003, the wines are more precisely crafted in terms of their nose, body and the balance of tannins on the palate. - From 2004 to 2010, the nose of the wines finally starts to explode with aroma. On the palate, the tannic structure is minutely constituted, which banishes the idea that Mouton Rothschild is the least elegant amongst the first growths. Having seen how the wines made by Philippe Dhalluin at Branaire Ducru improved in the 1990’s, before he took over the management of Mouton in 2004, considering how fresh they are now, how they are simply not dry any more and how they remain young over time, I conclude that when he took over the responsibility of running Mouton Rothschild it was very beneficial for Mouton enthusiasts. Which type of wine will age best? Certainly the last. From 1988 to 1999, except 1996, the wines are below their potential. Like many other wines in this period, age has failed to polish them as the merchants promised and the buyers hoped. Overall, there are too many differences from one bottle to another, even in the still young vintages. This is a recurring problem in Bordeaux and a source of great frustration for wine lovers. Happy tasting! Jean-Marc Quarin _ ________________________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2010. This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@quarin.com The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

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Chronicle 163: Mouton Rothschild vertical tasting from 1988 to 2010, purchased bottles

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