Chronicle 172: Bordeaux 2014 – a worrying vintage. 2014. Hosanna, Pomerol from its inception in 1999 to 2010, purchased bottles

2014 – a worrying vintage Two new Outsiders in 2011, both better than 2010 and 2009 Bought bottles: vertical of Hosanna, Pomerol from its inception in 1999 to 2010 – intruders: Latour Martillac 2003, Clos Manou 2007, 2009, l’Eglise Clinet 2004, La Fleur de Bouard 2005, Gazin 2006 Chronicle 172 (September 9, 2014) 2014 – a worrying vintage It started with a bang, a warm beginning to spring and an enthusiastic June, but 2014 is now a source of concern for the Bordeaux winegrowers and the whole wine economy. July was hot, but humid and the mildew was aggressive. All eyes and hopes turned to August, which would cast the quality or mediocrity of the mid-palate, and it turned out to be cool, even cold with frequently cloudy skies, rain and little warmth. In the vineyards, the onset of ripening lacked uniformity and the reds, initially early, are now behind the clock. We already know that there will be a lot of sorting to be done. It will be a big harvest with grapes that are large for the time of year, because they are full of water. The likelihood of rot is high. After an uninspiring sales campaign of the 2012’s, Bordeaux now needs light, heat and the weather to dry up to kick-start the whole system. Hopes are now centred on September and October, which will finally determine the vintage’s calibre. For now, since 1st September it has been fine and warm. Some estates have started picking their dry white grapes, worried that grey rot could break out. Two new Outsiders in 2011, both better than 2010 and 2009 Marquis de Terme 2011 16.5 // 92 The nose has never been so pure and smart. Elegantly fleshy and very fragrant on the palate with a refined feel, developing to become long, dense and fine-grained. It’s very good and even better undecanted than decanted. This achievement is due to Ludovic David’s enthusiasm and diligence. He has been the estate’s director since 2008. Clos du Clocher 2011, Pomerol 16.5 // 92 What a surprise! This is quite simply the best Clos du Clocher I have ever tasted; the freshest and the most complex with the most lustre. The meticulous way it has been made (bye bye all grainy tannins) makes it uniquely graceful and already gives it a high enjoyment score. With this vintage Clos du Clocher joins the very exclusive club of Pomerol plateau wines. All this is the result of Jean-Baptiste Bourotte’s ambition with his new cellar and a switch to organic cultivation and the talent of his new manager Cécile Dupuis. Bought bottles: vertical of Hosanna, Pomerol from its inception in 1999 to 2010 – intruders: : Latour Martillac 2003, Clos Manou 2007, 2009, l’Eglise Clinet 2004, La Fleur de Bouard 2005, Gazin 2006 The tasting was held in Nice at a major connoisseur’s home with his friends in June 2013. The wines were served blind, decanted in the order presented below. Appetizer: Latour Martillac 2013 15 // 87 Logo on the cork: not noted A wine with an already aged colour with a fruity nose, tender, smooth and pleasant on the palate with taste and fine tannins. Only the body was average. Drink now and before 2018. 1st series: Hosanna 2007 versus Clos Manou 2007 Hosanna 2007 15,25 // 87 Logo on the cork: JL Colour of medium intensity and slightly aged. Fruity, sharp nose that is less ripe than Clos Manou. Caressing, enjoyable and fruity on the palate with taste, body and medium length. Drink now and before 2017. Clos Manou 2007 16 // 90 Logo on the cork: LA For the first time with Clos Manou, three bottles had to be opened to find something recognisable. The first was surprising because of its finish, which was too firm – scored 15. In view of my dissatisfaction, the organiser opened a second bottle. Unfortunately it was corked! The third was perfect with a dark, lively, slightly aged colour. Fruity, slightly smoky nose and very flavoursome, well put together and caressing on the palate and even richly supple as it lingered. For the record, the chateau replaced the bottles. Drink now and before 2025. 2nd series: L’Eglise Clinet 2004 versus Hosanna 2004 L’Eglise Clinet 2004 15,75 // 89 Logo on the cork: CRL Dark colour of ordinary intensity and slightly aged. Elegant, fruity nose that is already very open, reminiscent of cedar and truffle. Silky attack, aromatic and tender on the mid-palate, it develops to become slightly warming from its alcohol on the finish with medium length. Lacking in vigour. Drink now and before 2024. Hosanna 2004 17 // 94 Logo on the cork: not noted Dark colour of ordinary intensity and slightly aged. Elegant, fruity, nose that is slightly sharp yet ripe, then creamier when it has been left to breathe. Richly supple to begin with, it develops to become juicy and powerful in the middle with lots of taste, complexity and elegant tannins. It is long and very good. Drink now and before 2030. 3rd series: La Fleur de Bouard 2005 versus Hosanna 2005 La Fleur de Bouard 2005 16 // 90 Logo on the cork: not noted Lovely intense, lively colour. Fruity, sharp, discrete nose. Silky on the attack, then melting, it develops with very ripe taste of fruit liqueur, but lacking aromatic lustre. Standard length, nicely softened. Drink now and before 2020. Hosanna 2005 17 // 94 Logo on the cork: JL Fruity nose that is again sharp, but ripe. Wide attack, it develops with lots of taste, a juicy feel, a touch of liquorice, vigour and breeding. However the finish strikes me to be a tad angular with palpable new wood. 2018 - 2050. 4th series: Hosanna 2006 versus Gazin 2006 Hosanna 2006 16 // 90 Logo on the cork: CB Colour of good intensity and slightly aged. Fruity, fresh nose with a hint of coffee. Tender and caressing on the palate with lots of flavours and standard body and length. Fruit liqueur as it lingers. Drink now and before 2020. Gazin 2006 17 // 94 Logo on the cork: not noted Lovely dark, intense, young colour. Fruity, ripe, warming nose, but elegant too. Rich and supple on the attack, growing juicy then big and full in the middle. It moves on with a refined feel, vigour, supple richness, a clearly warming hint and great length. Fruit and spice as it lingers. Delicious overall. 2016-2040 5th series: Hosanna 2003 versus Hosanna 2010 Hosanna 2003 15,25 // 87 Logo on the cork: CRL Moderately intense aged colour. Fruity, discrete nose. Tender on the palate with very aged flavour, a tad oxidised. Medium length. Either this bottle is weak or the wine should be finished up very quickly. Hosanna 2010 18,5 // 97 Logo on the cork: CB Intense, dark colour. Elegant, fruity, subtle, deep nose. Big and full on the attack, powerful, richly supple and noble in the middle, it grows with lots of taste, primarily cherry, with texture and a feel that are very refined. It finishes long, richly supple and multilayered. 2020-2050. 6th series: Hosanna 2008 versus Hosanna 2000 Hosanna 2008 17 // 94 Logo on the cork: JL Colour of medium intensity, dark and slightly aged. Fresh and fruity nose. Melting and especially aromatic on the palate, growing silky after the middle. Refined body and texture. Delicious overall, ending on an elegant hint of liquorice. 2018-2035 Hosanna 2000 17 // 94 Logo on the cork: JL Intense, dark and slightly aged colour. Ripe fruit on the nose. A touch of cream. Subtle hints of coffee. Silky attack, delightful as it develops, big, full and fresh on the mid-palate. It is packed with flavour and develops a hint of warmth on the finish, but its noble texture and multilayered aromas are enchanting. 2015-2035. 7th series: Clos Manou 2009 versus Hosanna 2009 Clos Manou 2009 17 // 94 Logo on the cork: LA Dark, intense, young colour. Fruity, elegant, noble nose with hints of vanilla. Big and full, juicy, melting and very fruity on the palate with tender body and a vanilla taste. The body fades a little on the finish, but it remains fresh and flavoursome as it lingers and it is not grainy. What a fantastic achievement for this Outsider! 2017-2040. Hosanna 2009 17,25 // 94-95 Logo on the cork: JL The first bottle had a nose that was too lactic and simple. Fortunately, the second was better. Fruity, ripe nose that is a little discrete and deeper after being allowed to breathe. Silky attack, growing fruity. It has a refined feel and develops to become powerful and both creamy and slightly sharp. Flavoursome finish with complex layers of aromas. 2020-2050. 8th series: Hosanna 1999 versus Hosanna 2001 Hosanna 1999 16,5 // 92 Logo on the cork: not noted As a reminder, this wine was very well placed in 2009 in a tasting of the 50 greatest Bordeaux wines of the vintage. When I tasted it again a little later, I found it not so good and a little bitter on the finish. The bottle presented below was perfect. Moderately intense, aged colour. Fruity nose that is both fresh and ripe. Quite rich and supple on the attack, flavoursome in the middle, developing a lovely feel with a hint of smokiness, not unlike Pessac-Léognan wines. Good flavoursome length. Drink now and before 2025. Hosanna 2001 16 // 90 Logo on the cork: JL Moderately intense, aged colour. Fruity nose, but a little “cold”. Round and friendly on the palate with more tannin as it develops than the 1999, but pleasant. Medium length. Drink now and before 2025. Happy reading. Jean-Marc Quarin ____________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2014. This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@quarin.com The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

2014 Chronicles

Chronicle 172: Bordeaux 2014 – a worrying vintage. 2014. Hosanna, Pomerol from its inception in 1999 to 2010, purchased bottles

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