Chronicle 175: the 1994 vintage tasted in a private cellar. Beware of the corks!

The 1994 vintage tasted in a private cellar. Beware of the corks! Lagrange, Léoville Barton, Léoville Las Cases, Ducru Beaucaillou, Château Margaux, Palmer, La Mission Haut Brion, Haut Bailly, Latour, Lafite Rothschild, Mouton Rothschild, Dominus, Pichon Lalande, Pichon Baron, Lynch Bages, Pontet Canet, Ausone, Cheval Blanc, Angelus, Figeac, L’église Clinet, Lafleur, Solaia, Petit Mouton, Montrose, Cos d’Estournel, Gruaud Larose, Talbot. Chronicle 175 (3 November 2014) The Quarin Guide’s Outsiders’ Exhibition. The only exhibition to honour taste before labels. Click here: http://lesalondesoutsiders.com/uk/ The vintage is austere. Not very ripe tannins on the finish and they remain angular. On the left bank with its insufficiently ripe Cabernet Sauvignon, the finishes end up with hints of crumpled leaves that the bouquets don’t manage to hide completely. On the right bank, the wines appear less structured and friendlier and they need to be drunk with no further delay. The Medocs can be kept. Some of them will keep nicely for about ten years. Their mature profile is an invitation to drink them with meals more in autumn and winter than any other season – firmness is more acceptable in winter with fattier dishes. Throughout the whole tasting, which was blind, only two wines were described as multilayered: Margaux and Mission Haut Brion. I analyse this as a very positive “terroir effect”. It is also interesting to note how well Angelus performed compared to Ausone and Cheval Blanc, when you consider the latest, very controversial Saint-Emilion classification. The most important point is the attention that must be paid to the quality of the corks. When comparing my comments to the state of wear and tear of the corks, there is a connection between the disappointment caused and the poor condition of the cork, which was often badly stained with the wine. However, this was not systematic. For example, the Lafleur cork looked fine, but the wine was corked. The Pichon Comtesse cork appeared like new and it did not seem possible that this wine would be rougher than others. So, opening these wines at this age always involves a risk. I find that the industry is not sufficiently concerned about this and I consider it a crying shame that wine lovers are the only people to put up with and pay for these disappointments and major differences between one bottle and another. As a reminder, in the introduction of my Guide, I argue that the quality of corks should be part of the entitlement to use an AOC. In overall terms, the evening of 13th October was pleasant, but without great emotion. The wines were served blind and without being decanted in the order given below. Branaire Ducru, one of the greatest achievements in 1994, was missing from the list. To help you measure the influence of the corks on the scores, I have provided for comparison the average score of each wine tasted that features in my database alongside the score I gave the last time I tasted it and the date of that tasting. Lagrange 1994 St Julien 16 // 90 Logo on the cork : CB Cork condition: good Having had to refurbish its vineyard when the estate was bought in 1983, Lagrange was 10 years ahead of many of its peers. Its successes continuously attest to this lead. Fruity and animal on the nose. Caressing on the palate, then still tannic. Lovely flavours of fruit, ink and meat. Drink now and up to 2020. Average score 16,25 (91) from 5 tastings. Previously tasted in 2005, scored 16 // 90. Léoville Barton 1994 St Julien 13 // 81 Logo on the cork : LBG Cork condition: heavily stained Here the nose smells of green pepper, which is nothing to do with the cork or its condition. Differences from one bottle to another. Average score 17 (94) from 8 tastings. Previously tasted in 2005, scored 16.5 (92). Léoville Las Cases 1994 St Julien 13,5 // 83 Logo on the cork: GP Cork condition: heavily stained Lovely, subtle nose that is fresh and still fruity, but it becomes rough and dry on the palate. It’s the cork’s fault! Differences from one bottle to another. Average score 16,75 (93) from 9 tastings. Previously tasted in 2008, scored 16.25 (91). Ducru Beaucaillou 1994 St Julien 14 // 85 Logo on the cork: an upside down T Cork condition: good Aged colour. Honey on the nose. Tender attack, then displays the warmth of alcohol with bitterness on the finish. As is, it should have been drunk already. Average score 16,5 (92) from 4 tastings. Previously tasted in 2004, scored 16.75 (93). Château Margaux 1994 Margaux 16,5 // 92 Logo on the cork: an upside down T Cork condition: good Dark, slightly aged colour. Complex nose of plum, cedar, ink and black fruit. Caressing, flavoursome and very balanced on the palate with a tightly knit finish, a little smoky. One of the enjoyable wines of the evening. Drink now and up to 2030. Average score 16,25 (91) from 7 tastings. Previously tasted in 2005, scored 16.25 (91). Palmer 1994 Margaux 16,25 // 91 Logo on the cork: pb Cork condition: heavily stained This was the last vintage made in the old cellars. Proof that they were all right! Its fragrant nose shouts Margaux and its hint of sharpness shows its medium ripeness. But there is an enchanting feel on the palate, the age-induced smoothness. A delicacy impossible to spit out! One you can rely on, but beware of the cork! Drink now and up to 2025. Average score 16 (90) from 3 tastings. Previously tasted in 2005, scored 16 (90). La Mission Haut Brion 1994 Pessac-Léognan 16,75 // 93 Logo on the cork: LBG The cork broke on opening. Aged colour. Lovely nose of cedar and tar. Still fresh. Animal. A touch of alcohol. On the palate it is delightfully sweet and soft, and attractively powerful with multilayered flavours in the middle and a wonderful fine-grained finish with not a hint of green. A noble profile. Drink now and up to 2025. Average score 16 (90) from 7 tastings. Previously tasted in 2008, scored 15,5 (88). It was dried out by being unfortunately double decanted. Haut Bailly 1994 Pessac-Léognan 13,75 // 93 Logo on the cork : A in a circle Cork condition: very good A drier wine than last September. Average score 15,75 (89) from 4 tastings. Previously tasted in 2008, scored 15,5 (88). Drink now and up to 2020. Latour 1994 Pauillac 15,75 // 89 Logo on the cork : an up side down T Cork condition: good Discrete nose. Surprisingly smooth on the palate when the vintage is too often harsh. Soft tannins, not green. Drink now and before 2024. Average score 15,75 (89) from 10 tastings. Previously tasted in 2009, scored 15,75 (89). Lafite 1994 Pauillac 15 // 87 Logo on the cork : pb Cork condition: good Wobbly construction on the palate: pleasant to start, hollow in the middle and more tannic on the finish. This bottle’s evolution is disappointing over the last ten years. Should have been drunk. Average score 15,5 (88) from 7 tastings. Previously tasted in 2011, scored 14,75 (86). Mouton Rothschild Pauillac 14 // 85 Logo on the cork : a crown Cork condition: good A little dry on the finish. Average score 16,25 (91) from 16 tastings. Previously tasted in 2009, scored 15,75 (89). Differences from one bottle to another. Dominus, Napa Valley, Californie 14 // 85 Logo on the cork: no indication Cork condition: good Incomprehensible result. The nose appears sweet, crystallised and too much wood on the palate. Previously tasted in 2011, scored 17 (94). Pichon Lalande 1994 Pauillac 14,5 // 86 Logo on the cork :CL Cork condition: good Lacks fruit. Smell of crumpled leaves on the nose. Tender at one end of the palate and tannic at the other. Differences from one bottle to another. Average score 16,75 (93) from 5 tastings. Previously tasted in 2005, scored 16,5 (92). Pichon Baron 1994 Pauillac 15 // 87 Logo on the cork: pb Cork condition: good The nose is a little rough with a hint of camphor. Round on the palate, but still too much wood on the finish. Differences from one bottle to another. Average score 16,5 (92) from 6 tastings. Previously tasted in 2006, scored 16,25 (91). Lynch Bages 1994 Pauillac Damaged bottle Logo on the cork: TL Cork condition: very bad condition, very badly stained. Wine spoilt. Average score 15,5 (88) from 4 tastings. Previously tasted in 2005, scored 15,5 (88). Pontet Canet 1994 Pauillac 14,5 // 86 Logo on the cork : no indication Cork condition: good A hint of camphor on the nose. Tender on the palate to start with, but also too firm on the finish. Should have been drunk. Average score 15,25 (87-88) from 3 tastings. Previously tasted in 2004, scored 15 (87). Ausone 1994 Saint Emilion 14,75 // 86 Logo on the cork : LO Cork condition: half stained One-dimensional nose. Tannins not ripe enough! should have been drunk. Average score 15,75 (89) from 5 tastings. Previously tasted in 2008, scored 15 (87). Cheval Blanc 1994 Saint Emilion 14,75 // 86 Logo on the cork : an upside down T Cork condition: good Aged colour. Fruity nose with a lovely coffee smell, caramel. Caressing on the palate and fine-textured, but it’s sharp. I have often found this wine enjoyable, but not this evening. Differences depending on the condition of the cork! Average score 16,75 (93) from 9 tastings. Previously tasted in 2010, scored 17 (94). Angelus 1994 Saint Emilion 16 // 90 Logo on the cork: JL Cork condition: good Very pleasantly soft and mellow with good body. Good fresh length with no roughness. Drink now and before 2024. Average score 16 (90) from 5 tastings. Previously tasted in 2006, scored 16,25 (91). Figeac 1994 Saint Emilion 13,5 // 83 Logo on the cork: SBM Cork condition: good Although the cork is in good condition, this wine is bland. Should have been drunk. Average score 15,5 (88) from 5 tastings. Previously tasted in 2005, scored 15 (86). L’Eglise Clinet 1994 Pomerol 16 // 90 Logo on the cork: CRL Cork condition: good Light, aged colour. Nose of fruit, ink and undergrowth. Juicy and aromatic on the palate, lengthened by its rich suppleness and a sparkle in the fruit. Slightest hint of tannin on the finish. Very nice! Drink now and before 2024. Average score 16,5 (92) from 4 tastings. Previously tasted in 2004, scored 16 (90). Lafleur 1994 Pomerol corked Logo on the cork: no indication Cork condition: good This wine has been corked 3 times out of 7 tastings! Solaia, Antinori, Toscane 1994 13 // 81 Logo on the cork: MB Cork condition: half stained Intense colour. Half sweet nose. Starts off round, juicy and flavoursome on the palate, then moves to sensations of green and extracted, even bitter tannins, which slowly drive enjoyment away. As is, it should have been drunk already. Haven’t tasted this vintage previously. Petit Mouton 1994 Pauillac 14,75 // 86 Logo on the cork: M Cork condition: good This wine on average is more pleasant than its elder, because of its smooth nose. Nicely made on the palate, flavoursome, but a little bitter on the finish. Drink now and before 2020. Previously tasted in 2004, scored 15 (87). Montrose 1994 Saint Estèphe 14,75 // 86 Logo on the cork : LBG Cork condition: a little stained While the nose is fruity and spicy (the estate renewed its barrels in 1994), on the palate this wine remains modest, flavoursome, but woody and a little dry on the finish. Drink now and up to 2020. Average score 16 (90) from 6 tastings. Previously tasted in 2005, scored 16 (90). Cos d’Estournel 1994 Saint Estèphe 15,5 // 88 Logo on the cork : a crown Cork condition: good Lovely fruity nose with a hint of ink, fresh and ripe. Round, juicy, flavoursome and fragrant on the palate, just a little tannic on the finish. Medium length. Drink now and up to 2024. Average score 15,25 (86-87) from 5 tastings. Previously tasted in 2011, scored 15 (87). Gruaud Larose 1994 Saint Julien 13,5 // 83 Logo on the cork: TL Cork condition: good Curious nose. Uncomplicated on the palate with a bitter note on the finish. As is, should have been drunk already. Average score 15,75 (89) from 4 tastings. Previously tasted in 2005, scored 15,5 (88). Talbot 1994 Saint Julien 15 // 87 Logo on the cork : CRL Cork condition: good Light colour. Fruity nose with a lovely coffee smell. Tender, melting and flavoursome on the palate and a tad tannic on the finish. Drink now and up to 2020. The corks of 1994, 20 years later From left to right, Châteaux Lagrange, Léoville Barton, Léoville Las Cases,, Ducru Beaucaillou, Château Margaux, Palmer From left to right, Châteaux Palmer, Mission Haut Brion, Haut Bailly, Latour, Lafite, Mouton From left to right, Châteaux Dominus, Pichon Comtesse, Pichon Baron From left to right, Châteaux Lynch Bages, Pontet Canet, Ausone, Cheval Blanc, Angelus From left to right, Châteaux Angelus, Figeac, Lafleur, L’Eglise Clinet From left to right, Châteaux Solaia, Petit Mouton, Montrose, Cos d’Estournel From left to right, Châteaux Gruaud Larose, Talbot __ __________________________________________________________ © Copyright 2014. This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail : jmquarin@quarin.com The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utiliz ed, and Jean-Marc Quarin (JMQ) is shown as the Copyright holder.

2014 Chronicles

Chronicle 175: the 1994 vintage tasted in a private cellar. Beware of the corks!

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