29/04/2015

2014 Bordeaux Primeurs: Results(11)

2014 Bordeaux dry whites
The 2014 Sauternes and Barsacs
The 2014 Bordeaux reds by appellation
The very good 2014s: 137 wines scored 15.5 and 15.75
Erratum
The end of the 2014 reports

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2014 Bordeaux dry whites
Good year, but watch out for acidity!

The cool summer left two distinctive characteristics in this vintage:
- The development of aroma precursors that were revealed as the wine was made.
- A lot of acidity: so much so that a lot of estates carried out partial malolactic fermentation. Notice how the softness that results from this second modification changes the identity of Sauvignon Blanc. With increased softness and greater smoothness this year it feels not unlike Semillon on the palate.
The highest scored wines feature the best combination of a commanding aromatic range and richly supple body, but are also vibrant, which is a vintage-specific characteristic.

The 2014 Sauternes and Barsacs
Good year for Sauternes, a very good one for Barsac

2014 is another year to fan jealousy between the two appellations. I don't remember seeing so many differences between them en primeur.
Just a reminder: Barsac has limestone soils while Sauternes soils are more sandy gravel and clay. During September's heat and drought, the grapes appear to have held on to more lustre in Barsac's limestone, where the vines would have found more water, than in the better drained soils of Sauternes. 2014 Sauternes often display fruit compote on the nose. On the other hand, Barsac wines have never expressed one of their distinctive aromas so strongly: that of lime.
Amongst the Sauternes, the coldest areas or terroirs i.e. with the most clay (in Fargues for example), managed to keep the vitality of their fruit and escaped the compote feature.
After the dry heat of September, botrytis took time to develop. Except for at the very beginning of September, the least patient growers harvested raisined grapes or were tempted to resort to chaptalization or cryoextraction.
Growers had to wait for rain on 8^th and 9^th October for humidity to trigger botrytis. The warm temperatures that ensued drove up evaporation and the sugar content of the grapes, which ended up candied. The 2014 Bordeaux sweet whites are very often blends of raisined and botrytised grapes. The meticulous harvests are small and scarcely reward the effort – a thorny paradox for this type of wine.
The wines are beautifully rich in residual sugar. The best have ethereal, melting structures induced by fine botrytis with no off-notes, which come with damp years.

The 2014 Bordeaux reds by appellation
Here are my notes scribbled down in real time as I explored the vintage appellation by appellation.

Pomerol
Very good vintage, but uneven

Soft and smooth as is often the case. Soft tannins. Pronounced aromas. Average mid-palates. More appealing finishes.

Saint-Emilion
Very good uneven vintage

Out of the four soil-types found in the appellation area, the clayey limestone areas lead. However, many wines are lacking a real mid-palate. Successful Cabernet Franc helps the wines on their finish. Overall, the wines have appeal. Low pH levels on clayey limestone soils give Merlot a slender, very flavoursome style. Barring accident, these wines should flesh up during ageing and earn higher scores.

Fronsac
Great vintage

This triumph came from less rainfall, which led naturally to greater concentration. The Malbec did very well as in all Saint-Emilion's neighbouring areas. Add in the winegrowers' caution during extraction. The result is fleshy, aromatic, rich Fronsacs with no roughness and natural alcohol contents between 14° and 14.5°.

Côtes de Castillon
Great vintage, but patchy

The high-fliers used this vintage to distinguish themselves: Clos Louie, Clos Puy Arnaud and Domaine de l'A.

Saint-Emilion Satellites, Côtes, Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieurs
Good vintage

2014 was a costly year in treatments and labour. Not all were able or knew how to pay for it.

Pessac Léognan and Graves
Good vintage

These wines are pleasing on the attack, don't fail in the middle, but don't grow on the finish. They have a lifeless expression, which is very surprising at this age. Once again, the merits of the Cabernet Franc enhance the profiles. Ageing will tell us more.

Médoc

As a reminder, the results were better in the north than in the south from Pauillac up.

Margaux
Good to very good vintage, but very patchy

The feeling of irregularity is overwhelming here like nowhere else. The profile is reminiscent of Pessac Léognan wines. No spark.

Saint-Julien
Good to very good vintage

The wines have held on to their fragrant profile. They have standard girth. The tannins are a little firm on the finish for this appellation. Ageing will tell us where they are going.

Pauillac
Very good even vintage

These wines have sparkle, density, a little more go on the mid-palate and finish with no rough-edged tannins.

Saint-Estèphe
Very good to great vintage, but patchy

The Merlot produced as rich alcohol contents as in Pomerol. Rainfall in July, August and September was very unequally spread in localised storms and may have benefitted some estates more than others. Calon Ségur especially.

Médoc and Haut-Médoc
Good to very good vintage, but very patchy

The quality of the human contribution has a greater impact on the final result here like in the Côtes wines and the Saint-Emilion Satellites, but more than elsewhere. Look at the prodigious success of Château du Retout white and red............................................

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En Primeurs 2014 see the reports – access the database
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2014 Bordeaux Primeurs: Results(11)

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