Chronicle 184: Vertical tasting of 24 vintages of Château Palmer, Margaux from 2010 to 1988 + 1982

The tasting took place in Switzerland on 4th May 2015. The bottles came from the cellar of an enthusiast. All of them had been bought en primeur. The wines were served in the order below, undecanted and in series of four. The order in which the wines were served and the vintages in each series was the organiser's choice. The tasting took place in public. The strong points, the weak points and the revelation in this tasting Overall this was a very pleasant evening and showed the young vintages in a more favourable light than the old. Strong points Palmer displays a fragrant style with a subtle combination of Margaux qualities and features of Merlot. In general terms, the structures are silky and delicately complex with no overpowering tannins. Many vintages share a flavour of black cherry, quite often with a hint of unusual spice (cardamom). 2008 is a nice surprise. Weak points Up to 2008, there is quite annoying woodiness on the finish. After 2008, this wood appears to be of better quality. The 2002 and even the 1999 have developed disappointingly. There are differences from one bottle to another of the same vintage. Corks between 1994 and 1982 were very worn. Revelations Some vintages behave more like a white wine than a red. This panoramic tasting shows that Palmer, like many other wines, stays in line with tastes that change over time. Before 1995, the wines display a slight acidic sharpness and less fleshy body. Their aromas are more noticeable than their substance. When comparing with today's wines, the limits of this deliberately sought after or imposed style are more perceptible. Of course, it is quite hard to go back on this, except for some of the vintages riper than the others. Provided the cork doesn't affect things. Not so much the taste of cork, but the sometimes unfortunate influence of the cork on the uncompromising behaviour of the wine. If our tastes change so quickly within twenty years, you may ask if it makes sense not to drink these wines earlier. These are after all Margaux wines that are tender, fragrant and ethereal and more specifically Palmer's wines include generous helpings of Merlot, a smooth grape with no stiffness. So I would encourage you not to idolise young vintages, to deliberately open them in order to identify their style and to then consume them at a time that seems right for you. In fact this approach could be extended to all wines. ________________________________ 1st series: 2008, 2004, 2006, 2010 2008 17 // 94 Logo on the cork: AL Average score in the database: 17 // 94 Lovely dark, young, intense colour. Intense, elegant, fruity, fresh, ripe and woody on the nose. Ethereal and melting on the palate with a refined feel and lots of taste. Beautiful length. In general, very hard to spit out. Nice surprise. 2018 - 2040. 2004 17 // 94 Logo on the cork : A in a circle Average score in the database: 17,25 // 94 Lovely dark, intense colour that has aged slightly. Fruity, ripe and fresh on the palate. Fleshy, smooth and flavoursome on the palate; a little more substance than the 2008, but slightly woody and toasted too, which is a pity. Good length. Preferably decant it. Drink now and up to 2028. 2006 16,5 // 92 Logo on the cork : an upside down T Average score in the database: 17 // 94 Fruity on the nose. Animal hints. Elegant mouthfeel. The wine builds towards the end and finishes long and flavoursome. However, a hint of bitter wood reduces the score. Standard length. 2018 – 2035. 2010 18,5 // 97 Logo sur le bouchon : DF Average score in the database: 18,5 // 97 Lovely dark, young, intense colour. Multiple layers of lovely cherry and cocoa aromas on the nose, which change significantly as the wine breathes. Superb dense, mouth-filling attack. Melting, big, ethereal and very succulent with a lovely mid-palate, it finishes with no roughness on the wood, just very long, fresh and flavoursome. This is great wine. Don't miss the opportunity to taste it straightaway as an aperitif, but wait until 2022-2050 to serve it at table. 2nd series: 2009, 2005, 2003, 2007 2009 17,5 // 95 Logo on the cork: DF Average score in the database: 18 // 96 Dark, young, intense colour. Elegant nose with pure fruit. Smooth, deep notes. Multilayered hints of blackcurrant, cherry, vanilla and cardamom. Round and succulent on the palate with a feel that is as ethereal as a great botrytised sweet white. After the mid-point, the texture becomes sharper, liquorice-like flavours take over and the wine becomes austere. Slightly alcoholic finish, but with no sharp corners and good length. Very pleasurable wine. Has closed up a little since 2013. 2020 – 2050. 2005 17,5 // 95 Logo on the cork : an upside down T Average score in the database: 18,5 // 97 Dark, intense colour that has aged slightly. Fruity, creamy and spicy (cardamom) on the nose. Caressing attack. Ethereal and succulent in the middle. Melting finish with hints of black fruit. Very good length with fine tannins, just a tad woody. 2020 – 2050. 2003 15,75 // 89 Logo on the cork: A in a circle Average score in the database: 16 // 90 Fruity on the nose with hints of wet wool and cedar. Soft attack to begin with, then harder at the end. Slightly green. Disappointing. Drink now and up to 2020. 2007 16,25 // 91 Logo on the cork: A in a circle Average score in the database: 17 // 94 Dark intense colour. Fruity and fresh with vanilla on the nose. A hint of liquorice and violets reminiscent of Syrah. Gentle on the attack with a hint of black cherry. It starts off melting on the palate, before becoming harder on the finish. Shame; will it soften out? Drink now and up to 2025. 3rd series: 2002, 1998, 1997, 1999 2002 First bottle Corked Logo on the cork: A in a circle 2002 Second bottle 16,25 // 91 Logo on the cork: A in a circle Average score in the database: 18,25 // 96 I have tasted this wine many times and it was fantastic for five years until 2009-2010. Today, it has become very irregular and too often disappointing. Two bottles opened in 2014 from my cellar were dry and undrinkable. My advice is to get rid of it. 1998 16 // 90 Logo on the cork : an upside down T Average score in the database: 16,5 // 92 Medium intense colour that has aged. Fruity, fresh and not very ripe on the nose. Subtler and caressing on the palate. Flavours of black fruit. Medium body. Standard length. Drink now and up to 2025. 1997 13 // 81 Logo on the cork : an upside down T Average score in the database: 15,75 // 89 Green pepper on the nose. Bearing in mind my previous observations, this is probably due to differences between bottles. Should have been drunk. 1999 15,5 // 88 Logo on the cork : an upside down T Average score in the database: 16,75 // 93 Is this wine going to go bad like the 2002? Having tasted it seven times, this is the second time since 2009 that it doesn't taste like it used to be. See the database. 4th series: 2001, 2000, 1993, 1996 2001 16 // 90 Logo on the cork: A in a circle Average score in the database: 16,75 // 93 Medium intense colour that has aged. Fruity, fresh and discrete on the nose. Delicious on the palate, which provides similar sensations to those of a white wine. Surprising. Drink now and up to 2025. 2000 15,5 // 88 Logo on the cork : an upside down T Average score in the database: 16,75 // 93 Having tasted it ten times, I note that this wine has become harder from 2008 onwards, i.e. six years after being bottled. Cork problem? 1993 15 // 87 Logo on the cork: m – Stained cork (see photo) Average score in the database: 15,5 // 88 This wine ends up a little dry on the finish. In the photo, the cork's appearance isn't very appealing. Should have been drunk. 1996 15 // 87 Logo on the cork: A in a circle Average score in the database: 16,75 // 93 Fruity wine, light-bodied with a salty taste. No roughness, but stunted expression. Drink now and up to 2020. 5th series: 1994, 1988, 1989, 1990 1994 13 // 81 Logo on the cork: pb – Stained cork (see photo) Average score in the database: 16,25 // 91 The same wine taken from the same case in October 2010 was scored 16.25 (91). At that time I hailed its delicacy that was impossible to spit out. It was the same cork supplier. In the photo, the cork's appearance isn't very appealing. 1988 15 // 87 Logo on the cork: pb – Stained cork (see photo) Average score in the database: 16,5 // 92 Medium intense colour that has aged. Subtle, smooth nose with hints of fruit and coffee. Slender and flavoursome on the palate with a taste of cedar, medium body, but aromatic. Standard length. The condition of the corks will probably cause differences between bottles. Drink now and before 2020. 1989 16,25 // 91 Logo on the cork: pb – Stained cork (see photo) Average score in the database: 17 // 94 Medium intense colour that has aged. Fruity on the nose with a hint of cedar. Succulent, flavoursome and fragrant on the palate throughout. It becomes sappy over Palmer's hallmark black cherry taste. A tad sharp on the finish. Very good length. Pleasant overall. Drink now and before 2030. 1990 15,5 // 88 Logo on the cork: LBG – Stained cork (see photo) Average score in the database: 16,25 // 91 Medium intense colour that has aged. This is the second tasting since 2008 when a bottle of this wine taken from the same case, behaves poorly. Hints of green on the finish are astounding for this great vintage. The condition of the corks will probably cause differences between bottles. Drink now and before 2020. 6th series: 1991, 1992, 1982, 1995 1991 Corked Logo on the cork: m Average score in the database: 15 // 87 1992 13 // 81 Logo on the cork: no information Average score in the database: 14,75 // 86 Acid on the palate. Should have been drunk. 1982 15,5 // 88 Logo on the cork: no information Stained cork (see photo) Average score in the database: 16,75 // 93 Aged colour. Discrete and plain on the nose. Caressing, flavoursome, pleasant, but light on the palate. Salty hint as it lingers. Has come to the end of the line. Previous tasting: 16,5 (92) in 2012. 1995 16 // 90 Logo on the cork: A in a circle Average score in the database: 16,5 // 92 Lovely, dark, intense colour. Fruity, ripe and smooth on the nose. Pretty, very fruity attack, becoming smooth with hints of cedar, with body and a finish that still has traces of wood. Good length. Drink now and before 2030. As a reminder, 1995 is the year in which a new cellar was built and the winemaking process was changed at Palmer. _________________________________________ @Copyright This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, 33320 Le Taillan-Médoc. France. E-mail : jmquarin@quarin.com The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin is shown as the Copyright holder.

2015 Chronicles

Chronicle 184: Vertical tasting of 24 vintages of Château Palmer, Margaux from 2010 to 1988 + 1982

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