Chronicle 187: News on Bordeaux 2015 wines - For now, full of promise followed by 8 exasperating days

Part 1: Full of promise My analysis on 6th September July having been dry, fine and hot, I expect well-structured wines. The first analyses tend to bear this hypothesis out, showing concentration levels comparable to those of 2010. In 2015, the Bordeaux estates enjoyed some natural bonuses in their vines' growth cycle, which contributed to making this vintage one of the best: - Fast, uniform flowering in June; the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot actually flowered at the same time - The onset of ripening (véraison) came at the end of July and beginning of August just as quickly and uniformly as the flowering. The fact that grape ripening did not get spread out over time is an extra factor in favour of success, if it rains in mid-September. July was hot and dry with half the 30-year average of rainfall. The vines were subjected to a lack of water early and their growth was suspended in conditions that remind some people of 2005. Hydric stress became progressively established between the second and fourth week of July. When vines halt vegetation growth in this way, the plants turn to reproductive functions and focus on ripening fruit. Vineyard workers who had cut back the vines before leaving on holiday at the end of July were surprised not to have to trim them again on their return three weeks later in August. This was in fact doubly astonishing, because rainfall in August 2015 was twice the average. Rain did fall in July just at the right time to avoid the growth cycle getting stuck and enabling ripening to begin in perfect conditions. In July, the vineyards were dry and yellow; they greened up in August. Between 65 and 135 mm of rainfall fell in August 2015 depending on the appellation, much more than the 55-mm thirty-year average. “Fortunately, in view of the water deficit”, sighed some. “We needed it to bring back a bit of life”, commented others. In July the grapes were so small that volume forecasts were tiny, predicting practically no juice at all. The rain, which often fell during storms and was therefore quickly absorbed, nevertheless restored the fruit to normal size. So that rain was gold from heaven. Although the grapes weighed less than those of 2014, the 2015 harvest seemed set to produce large volumes, because the bunches were so big. “August makes the must” is the old adage. My observations tell me the weather in August sets the tone on the mid-palate. Rain could lead to a sensation of dilution in the middle. This risk can be compensated for by drawing off free-run wine from the tanks. For the benefit of wine lovers and property owners, when the harvest produces sufficient volumes, there are no economic constraints, so wine can be run off or selections can be carried out. When a vintage produces little volume, this is more difficult to envisage. Note too that August's average temperature was around 21.2°C (70.2°F) i.e. the thirty-year average, while the total span for the period varied from 9° to 35°C (48.2° to 95°F). This could have been very conducive for great aromatic concentration. At present, the first outcomes from vinified white grapes are described as being more vibrant than 2014. However, the temperatures and heat in July could lead to flabby dry whites through lack of acidity. We are now about to start picking the red wine grapes and other positive factors have appeared: - Since the beginning of the week, the nights have become colder. Early morning temperatures are around 8° or 9°C (46° to 48°F) and afternoon highs don't exceed 22° to 24°C (72° to 75°F). These are excellent conditions to develop aromas, while maintaining sound disease-free fruit. - The weather forecast is excellent until 16th September, so the red wine grapes can continue to ripen slowly and evenly. A left bank or right bank vintage? For now, theoretically, the right bank with its clayey limestone soils that handle drought conditions well, where less rain fell in August (65 to 85 mm), could benefit more than the left bank, where 135 mm fell in Léognan, 130 mm in Saint Estèphe and 100 mm in Saint Julien. However, it should be remembered that Cabernet Sauvignon is a more pliable grape variety than Merlot and will have put up better with the changes in weather between July and August. Some Medoc winegrowers find it tastes better at the moment than the Merlot, which is another unusual feature of the vintage. Some remember that in really hot years like 2003, the Cabernet Sauvignon was regal on the left bank, where it grew in gravel with a clayey sub-soil and therefore where there was more water. Part 2: eight exasperating days from 10th to 18th September My analysis on 20th September The weather forecast predicted fine weather at least until the 15th. It was wrong. First, it rained in the night of Thursday 10th and on Friday 11th, then grew steadily wetter over the weekend. In the evening of Monday 19th September, between 60 and 75 mm of rain fell in Saint-Julien and Pauillac and a little more than that in Saint-Estèphe, depending on the area. 35 mm fell in Pessac, a little more in Léognan and a little less in the southern Graves area. The conditions are favourable in Sauternes and Barsac, where a first pass has been picked displaying pleasing rot. On the right bank, rainfall was less: 15 to 20 mm in Fronsac, depending exactly where, Pomerol and Saint-Emilion. The damp weather coincided with hot days. The highest risk of grey botrytis rot was expected on Wednesday 16th, but the weather forecasters got it wrong again. Of course the best drained land and the sandiest soils were at the greatest risk. Then the nights became cooler and curtailed the risk. Quite uniquely, the risky days were windy, which was very good for drying up the humidity. The damp episode ended in the evening of 18th September. The fine weather has returned, but the forecasts warn of instability. Some decided to harvest early. Clos l'Eglise in Pomerol, whose vines I have not had time to see, finished picking their Merlot at midday on Tuesday 15th. Clos Puy Arnaud in Castillon picked its young vines on 11th, then the vines used for its main wine on 14th. Lafleur in Pomerol, where the vines looked very well-kept and the properties managed by Jean-Pierre Moueix did the same. Same too at Canon, where the vines looked good on the Saint-Emilion plateau, where they started on 14th with the young vines. Even more intriguing was on Thursday 8th, when Château Latour in Pauillac, where the vines were exceptionally well looked after, told me they would start the Merlot on Tuesday 12th: because of the biodynamic cultivation principles, they were ready to harvest earlier – could this be an advantage in 2015? I believe so. 2015 could result in two different styles: one with less alcohol, more vibrant fruit, lower pH levels, greater organic stability and a sinewy feel in the earliest picked; the other with more alcohol, this vintage being already very rich, a risk of being heavy, less vibrancy more tannin and higher pH levels with less stability for those, who waited to harvest. In any case the musts of Clos L'Eglise, which was harvested early, displayed no greenness. Another vintage-specific factor made the choice of harvest date different this year. In 2015, nature has been very generous and I can see too many grapes per vine. I have never seen so many since the over-abundant harvest of 2004. This is not the case for everyone however. Some winegrowers decided to eliminate some fruit, others none or very little: these observations will be useful when I come to assess the primeurs. Some winegrowers are quite open about cashing in on volume to make up for the frugal yields in 2013. These need more than the others to try to wait for the fruit to ripen, but with the change in weather, nature could decide for them. For now, rainfall measures indicate that the right bank and Pessac gravel soils are better off. We need to see what the Cabernet Sauvignon is like after the recent rain on the left bank. Watch this space. Jean-Marc Quarin www.quarin.com ________________________________________ @Copyright This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl, 10 allée de Ginouilhac, 33320 Le Taillan-Médoc. France. E-mail : jmquarin@quarin.com The news media and subscribing wine distributors, importers and retailers may use portions of this material (such as tasting notes, ratings or quotes) provided that it is not distorted, the proper wine and vintage are stated, www.quarin.com is given credit for the material utilized, and Jean-Marc Quarin is shown as the Copyright holder.

2015 Chronicles

Chronicle 187: News on Bordeaux 2015 wines - For now, full of promise followed by 8 exasperating days

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2015 Chronicles

Chronicle 187: News on Bordeaux 2015 wines ​- For now, full of promise followed by 8 exasperating days

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Chronicle 187: News on Bordeaux 2015 wines - For now, full of promise followed by 8 exasperating days